At this point I would consult a good repair shop. Changing parts without determining the problem is only going to cost $, and lead to possibly more problems.
This 318 always starts with no more than a "chirp" of the starter motor. Occasionally, I drive it for an hour-or-so and then go into a restaurant, or some such stopping place, for an hour-or-so and when I try to start it it cranks and cranks like crazy but will not even TRY to start.
It is carbureted and has one of those "Electronic Fuel Control System" air cleaners. Also, it runs strong when under a load (full-throttle) (although it pings a little) but when I get to a cruising speed and let back off the throttle to "plane" it lurches and hesitates instead of running smoothly.
I could also ask if anyone knows how I extract the engine codes using the On-Off, On-Off, ignition key technique. Instructions state that this works on fuel-injected cars only.
my infiniti I 30 driver's power seat will not move forward and backward. i t will still move up and down. is this a simple problem to troubleshoot? or do i need to take it in to the shop? thanks
i just found out that this is a common problem in 2000-2002 I30 and the 2002 I35 models(drivers seat not moving forward and backward) and that there is a technical service bulletin for this problem. also it is and expensive problem to repair. fyi
i have a 1986 honda prelude, 2 door sedan. the sunroof is stuck in the open postion, we think it's electrical, but reguardless i need to get it closed. we are going into our rainy season. thank you.
Well you might find out where the motor is for the sunroof and try to by-pass the switch and circuitry that controls it. You might also be able to loosen the cable that runs it and close it by hand. Some cars have a way of cranking it manually but I don't know about your car. You might have to drop the whole headliner to figure this out.
I was driving back from Vegas yesterday. The electrical system "blinked"/"flashed" but all seemed fine. Then about 30 miles later the AC fan, and cruise control became in operative. Also the anti-lock ABS dash light came on. Everything seems to work except for the AC and cruise. I stopped and checked every single fuse at the side of the dash, not just the ones it could be. I also checked every single fuse under the hood in the "relay center" box. No bad fuse. I checked the battery connections and water level. I visually inspected under the dash by the blower motor and every place else under the hood and dash. No Luck.
Any ideas?
Dealer says maybe ECM or something. $80 to find out and then...
I have a 1988 Chevy Suburban. Recently, it has had an odd habit of starting and driving fine, then intermitantly after a short or extended stop, it behaves as if the battery is dead with a low voltage reading. However, I've replaced the battery and the starter. I've had it in the shop twice and they can't find the problem. When the problem occurs, I can start it only with a jumpstart or a portable battery booster. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks! :confuse:
My daughters car started doing the same thing. Just driving and lost speedometer, & fuel guage. Did you ever get an answer? We changed the battery recently, about a week ago. Wonder if it had something to with that? :sick:
I have this 94 Safari and recently had the fuel pump changed. I now have this problem, that @ night when I turn on my headlights, in about ten(10) min. the Van shuts off and my headlights flash. I have noticed that when this happens the fuse for the cig lghtr/dome 20a is not only blown, but melted. I have looked for some short of short and found none. I am pulling my hair out to solve this problem. also I noticed that the 20a cigltr/dome fuse, after I replace with a new one and restart the engine without the headlights. and I pull that fuse out the engine shuts off. PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME , I AM GOING CRAZY :confuse:
I just changed three alternators in two weeks. The third one was tested before we installed it and it worked well. Just a few hours after installation, the battery light came on again, indicating the alternator is NOT charging well and a few minutes later after stopping the car, it did not start. I notice that the alternator goes bad after the lights, radio and a/c are on. Could there be something that is damaging the alternator? Three in two weeks is unusual. I need to know because this is an unusual problem. The car is used day and night for work. The battery was bought brand new a year ago. Please help
Thanks for the help. I switch my 86 Acura Legend light switch to the first position and the running lights come on as well as the dash panel lights. When I switch to the next position for headlights, the runnings lights and dash lights go off but the headlights come one. Someone explained that the switch is a double contact switch and one set isn't working in the second position. That makes sense to me. Assuming that's right, is this something I can reasonably repair? If not, what would this cost. If too much :confuse: I would even be up for bypassing the switch for now if I could rewire it somewhere accessible so I could work the headlights or runnings separately. I appreciate you all weighing in on this. Thanks in advance for your expertise.
Hello, out there. I have a 97 saturn that started over heating and A/C would start blowing out hot air.Found out that the fan stopped working,I thought the wires connected to the temp sensor may have a short but was told that when the wires are'nt connected that the fan would automticly go on (that it was a built in safe guard) so I changed temp sensor,and fan starting working again,(even before i connected wires back on)fan would go when a/c was turned on and A/C blew cool.I let it idle w/ A/C on(bout 20 mins)no problem ,drove around w/ A/C on,(bout 20 mins)no problem then let it idle w/ A/c off fan would turn off and turn back on w/ A/C no problem,so i thought it was fixed .Then the next day fan quit working again.I thought I might have cross connected the wire harness(that connects to the temp sensor)upside down,(since it would fit both ways),that it may have shorted the fan motor out? So I bought a another temp sensor just to make sure the first wasnt faulty,that didnt work fan still did not go on .Somebody told me about disconnecting the positive poll of battery to reset it. also a/c blows out hot air again when car starts to over heat. Could this be the fan motor or some type of short or something ,Please help!
I had the same problem with my 86 Honda Prelude. I'll bet you're using rebuilt/refurbished or whatever they call them alternators. One of these alternators failed and put 18 volts onto my system before blowing the headlights. Luckily no other damage took place. The other 2 simply stopped charging. I suspect the internal voltage regulators were of inferior quality.
My problems were solved when I fitted a Honda alternator which of course cost far more than the rebuilds.
I have a '93 S10 Blazer with a turn signal problem. The hazard works fine on all four lights. The right side turn signal works fine front and rear. The left side lights (front and rear) but does not flash when the signal lever is depressed. Hopefully this is an easy fix that I haven't thought of..Any ideas?...
Ive seen several posts on the subject but no answers. The lights went out at night on the way home. Was able to turn lights on manually.I got home and replaced a 20 amp fuse , blew immediately. Put in a 30 just to see and lights came on but started to smell something burning. Took to the mechanic this morning , he said its possibly the day time running light module,if not its probably a bernt wire somewhere. Any Ideas out there. Thanks
i would never install a higher rated fuse for a ckt than design. if anything, when diagnosing, you;d think you'd want to go with a lower amp fuse which will handle less current than the one that protected the circuit the first time the fuse blew.
you've got a good short pulling lots of current and now that you are smelling something burning, you *may* have compromised part of the circuit because of resistive heating and done more damage - perhaps making another path between hot and ground.
1993 4cyl. Mustang LX Need help with electrical prob. I have tested and changed alternator, changed solenoid, and got a new battery. My battery light in dash wont go off and my battery drains. I have also checked some visable wires to make sure none have been cut or broken. My starter drags a little after the car starts, could that be the prob.? If anyone can help please do.
This is my first time entering this discussion so you'll have to forgive me if this is "routed" wrong.
Question: I have a 1996 Acura Integra. Both rear windows have stopped working. Both are down about 1/3 of the way and won't go up. I know nothing about electrical systems for the Integra. Has anyone had this problem and can I get a few suggestions of how to fix it? Would it be as simple as a fuse? Thank you.
My dash lights and rear tail lights are on a fuse, noticed last night after changing fuse again, that when depressing the gear shift button to change gears the fuse would blow. All my other lights work, blinkers(F&R), flashers(F&R ketc. Any ideas on what is wrong?
Had smoke and electrical odor coming from electrical components under/near battery. took battery out and looked all over and could not find any burnt out electrical parts. Now high beams won't work. I repalced fuse for high beams. Fuse blows after a few seconds for high beams if high beams are turned on. Low beams work. Any ideas to fix this problem?
You have to trace the wires from the high beam bulb on back. The connector to the bulb might be the culprit, or you have a grounded wire somewhere between the bulb and the fuse.
took out battery. removed battery tray, moved around all wiring under that area. Took off front plastic wheel well cover, traced wires from headlamp to harness that goes into wheel well area. Pulled all wires back and forth from wheel well access. Moved every wire around that would move hoping to stop any short circuit. Looked from inside wheel well and did not see any burnt wires. Felt some sharp edges where wires go thru small plastic housing in wheel well that might have caused wire wear. Moved wires around in that area. Then put everything back together and put in new high beam fuse. Turned headlights on and tried high beams. They worked. problem may not be permenantly fixed but at least it works for now. Thank you for the guidance.
Any luck with this? I have a similar problem with my 2000 Grand Cherokee. I tried to drive over a median and managed to lodge the car on the median, fairly violently, before I then managed to drive get some wheel traction and proceed to drive over the median. The undercarriage took quite a blow. As soon as I lodged the AC, radio, blinkers, windows, speedometer (and maybe more) stopped working. The fuses look ok so I figure something that supplies electricity to all of these dislodged, broke, etc.
Anyway my problem sounds real similar to yours. Any help appreciated.
My battery indicator symbol sometimes comes on for a few seconds and then goes off . It could be days before this happens again. Battery is 3 months old and reads 12.5 vdc while sitting overnite along with alternator were checked for CCA load tested and the alternator was also checked for proper charge operation . Eveything is good .GM dealer did a scan and did not find anything. Cables from alternator were checked as well as the battery cables are all tight. This problem just started about a month ago and the only thing I had serviced on the truck is oil changes by the dealer and about a month ago I had a local tire shop install new brakes and 4 tires. Does anyone know the "battery display" light sensor wiring of a 2001 V8 silverado truck specific to cause this battery display to happen? I thought of a slipping belt but my voltmeter at the time the light comes on shows 14.2vdc at the battery terminals. Thanks,
Hi, everybody! I have a 1998 Ford Taurus SE. Bought it 2 yrs ago in a very good condition. No major problems until now: recently it has been raining cats and dogs for 8 straight days and all of a sudden my 6-CD changer (located in the trunk) started acting up: out of 6 cd's - it recognizes only one. I tried changing CD's and cleaning them. I wonder if water somehow got into it and caused a shortage (the inside of the trunk is dry, though). Is this a major electrical problem? Is there something I could check on my own? Thank you all in advance...
I have a 2001 Cherokee 4.0L auto 2WD. None of the gauges are working. When I start the vehicle the odometer reading displays the mileage, certain lights are lit (low fuel, seatbelt) then extinguish. After a few seconds the Check Engine light comes on and the odometer display reads "no bus". Neither the speedometer nor tach work either. The brake indicator light works when the parking brake is activated so other circuits appear to be working. I pulled the instrument cluster to check the condition of the connectors. They appear to be seated and look good. Any ideas?
good morning kirstie have an 87 s-10 blazer that has no dash lights ( no power to the fuse but the fuse is good ) and no parking lights but the fuse is ok. i've replaced bulbs and fuses to no avail. why is there not power to the fuse for inst. panel? is there a relay some where in between? thanks Henry
I have a 95 J30, and am receiving many obscene gestures, as I cannot turn my headlights off of high beam. Could someone please tell me where to trace the problem to? Thanks so much.
has anyone ever opened up a dodge computer to do repairs? I have a 95 5.9L ram van 3500 with an electrical short in the ecm. is there a way to remove the resin goop that covers the components on the inside. it appears to be a simple fix if i can get inside without destroying it HELP!
Hey all. I started having a problem a while back where the engine power would choke for a second, at the same time the dash would go dead and the guages would flutter down to 0. This would last a second or two then everything would go back to normal. The problem gradually increased to the point where the car would stall. I'd put her in neutral and start her up again, no problem. Last week, it died. No power to start, no lights, nothing. I sat at the side of the road for an hour on a hill (otherwise I would have tried to push start her). I decided to push start her in reverse (never tried that before) but just then the power came back and I had no problems getting to my garage. Of course the car runs fine right now, there are a wack of things in the history when checking for codes but none of them seem to be the problem, just results of the problem. I'm thinking maybe a ground wire? Sorry for the long post. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. Recently, I hooked up my trailer(used many times), turned on the headlights, and the running lights(front and rear) and dash lights stopped working. When I turn on the headlights, only the front illuminates. Still have brake lights and indicators. Can anyone give me an idea of the problem. I have checked the fuses. Thanks
I'm thinking either one or both of the battery cables are eatten up by acid. Possibly inside the insulation. Might also be a loose cable connection.
It would help if you gave some information about the car - year, model, motor. Then someone with same problem on the same car might give you some exact guidance.
Some kind of short or broken wire in the trailer connector or wiring. Start looking. When you mess up the turn signal circuit, things go flacky quickly.
Thanks for the info. on the cause. Any ideas on what could have gone wrong with my cars electrical. I am taking it to a shop tomorrow but just want to get as much info as possible to prevent gettting wripped off. I can always pretend I know what I am talking about.
Thanks Bolivar. Yes of course, it's a 98 sl1, second owner, 80,000 miles,4cyl, 5 speed. I figured a ground wire or maybe the positive. Would a warn batt cable cause the car to die at high rpm's? It's at the garage right now. My machanic will drive it until the problem happens to him. It was funky for a few days with me, now he's driving it and it's running fine...why does that always happen? lol.
my son bought a used Q45 several months ago. a few days ago, all the dashboard lights ~ other than the one that warns of "brake pads worn" ~ are out... no light at all. i check the fuses and did not see one that said dashboard.. but looked them over anyway without any luck. anyone have any suggestions?
also, although the brake lights and the turn signals work, the rear running lights do not work making night driving dangerous.
the car has alot of miles and is not worth putting alot of $ into. would appreciate and thoughts or ideas.
check the dashboard dimmer switch. As for rear running lights, first thing I'd do is get a test light and see if you have current to the bulb sockets, or at least pull out those bulbs and see if there is corrosion. If you have current, it's the bulbs or sockets. If no current you have to start with the wiring harness at the tail lights and work your way up through the car. A test light with a needle probe would allow you to probe the harness at various points.
I have a 1995 Protege with an electrical problem. When the headlights are on and I click on the lever to make a left hand turn my instrument panel light goes off and so do my tail lights. When the turn is completed the lights go back on. I guess I could only make right hand turns but I can't get an inspection sticker. Please help!
Comments
It is carbureted and has one of those "Electronic Fuel Control System" air cleaners. Also, it runs strong when under a load (full-throttle) (although it pings a little) but when I get to a cruising speed and let back off the throttle to "plane" it lurches and hesitates instead of running smoothly.
I could also ask if anyone knows how I extract the engine codes using the On-Off, On-Off, ignition key technique. Instructions state that this works on fuel-injected cars only.
thanks
also it is and expensive problem to repair.
fyi
Any ideas?
Dealer says maybe ECM or something. $80 to find out and then...
choose model legend and select go.
enter your year, trim, and transmission and select go
(don't know which switch you are referring to since I don't drive an acura) but suggest you click on the links for switch1 and switch2
site provides great exploded-view drawings.
another thought, perhaps a pull-it-parts / salvage place?
My problems were solved when I fitted a Honda alternator which of course cost far more than the rebuilds.
Hopefully this is an easy fix that I haven't thought of..Any ideas?...
you've got a good short pulling lots of current and now that you are smelling something burning, you *may* have compromised part of the circuit because of resistive heating and done more damage - perhaps making another path between hot and ground.
Need help with electrical prob. I have tested and changed alternator, changed solenoid, and got a new battery. My battery light in dash wont go off and my battery drains. I have also checked some visable wires to make sure none have been cut or broken. My starter drags a little after the car starts, could that be the prob.? If anyone can help please do.
Question:
I have a 1996 Acura Integra. Both rear windows have stopped working. Both are down about 1/3 of the way and won't go up. I know nothing about electrical systems for the Integra. Has anyone had this problem and can I get a few suggestions of how to fix it? Would it be as simple as a fuse? Thank you.
Anyway my problem sounds real similar to yours. Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
I have a 1998 Ford Taurus SE. Bought it 2 yrs ago in a very good condition. No major problems until now: recently it has been raining cats and dogs for 8 straight days and all of a sudden my 6-CD changer (located in the trunk) started acting up: out of 6 cd's - it recognizes only one. I tried changing CD's and cleaning them. I wonder if water somehow got into it and caused a shortage (the inside of the trunk is dry, though). Is this a major electrical problem? Is there something I could check on my own?
Thank you all in advance...
Thx for the help in advance.
have an 87 s-10 blazer that has no dash lights ( no power to the fuse but the fuse is good ) and no parking lights but the fuse is ok. i've replaced bulbs and fuses to no avail. why is there not power to the fuse for inst. panel? is there a relay some where in between?
thanks
Henry
Richard.
It would help if you gave some information about the car - year, model, motor. Then someone with same problem on the same car might give you some exact guidance.
Thanks again bolivar
Thanks again.
Rich.
also, although the brake lights and the turn signals work, the rear running lights do not work making night driving dangerous.
the car has alot of miles and is not worth putting alot of $ into. would appreciate and thoughts or ideas.
tim
headlights are on and I click on the lever to make a left
hand turn my instrument panel light goes off and so do my
tail lights. When the turn is completed the lights go back
on. I guess I could only make right hand turns but I can't
get an inspection sticker. Please help!