Not to split hairs here, but what does "compressor is READY to run if needed" mean? The compressor is always "ready" in the sense it's there. When the light is on, the AC is most definitely on. But you're correct that, with the heat on, its main job (and effect) is to dehumidify the interior, not to cool it.
You are probably right. They knew that the vlsd was not there. They said that the car was hold in the port of arrival... But they have been correct with me, although they refused to give me the performance package for the same price; so they gave me the wheel package free of charge. It does not replace the additional safety that the vlsd represents, especially in snowing conditions, but... They also fixed the paint problem. So all together, I am happy with the service, especially compared with the arrogance of the BMW dealer in the same town, that seems to make you a favor when you enter the show room.
HOw is the G35 in the snow. I am considering getting an M35 AWD and don't know how good it is in the snow because the AWD operates front to back but not side to side. The Audis and the Acura RL have AWD that goes front to back and side to side. I currently have a Mercedes E 320 4matic and it is not as good as the Audi's quattro. It struggles to get up my drive way in the snow vs the Audi which gets up with no problem Any input would be appreciated.
Did the converter check today by driving at 75 MPH using cruise control on a level straight stretch of the road, with tachometer showing 2750 rpm. Then, without disengaging cruise control, shifted lever to the manual mode, up-shifted from 4th to 5th gear and was observing the same 2750 rpm. I also tried to cancel cruise control in both automatic and manual mode and observed approximately the same rate of rpm decrease, which seem to be proportional to the drop in speed.
I have 2004 G35 Auto, about 1 month old, with 1800 miles on the odometer.
It might be not related to your question, but I did noticed changes in the auto mode shifting. I think this was related to the away I drove first 1200 miles (break-in) vs. more aggressive driving afterwards.
I know that your issue is with "manual" mode, which should not be affected by learning algorithms utilized in auto mode. The "manual" mode however is not completely manual: slowing down from approx. 50 MPH to complete stop I observed gear changed from 5th to 4th and so on to the 1st, all without my shifting, i.e. automatically. I am wondering if the issue you are describing is related to software glitch rather than to the transmission mechanical problem. If you have less than 1200 miles on odometer and still breaking-in, I would wait until you can drive car hard for a few hundred miles, and then try your experiment again.
Thanks for trying out the experiment. My 05 G35 is still breaking-in at 600+ miles and I'm not pushing it hard. I'll will try with the cruise control at 60MPH and also at 75MPH to see if they matter. If you could, please try the test again without using the cruise control at the lower 60MPH speed. May be in manual shift mode, the torque converter will lockup later and/or at a higher cruising speed.
I've managed just fine through a few mild-moderate snow storms in the DC area this winter with only my RWD coupe and its all-weather Continental ContiExtreme. Yesterday, my car went in for its 30k mile service, and sure enough we got about 5" of the white stuff throughout the day. All of the loaners at the dealership are G35X's, so I was able to sample one back-to-back against my coupe on the slushy roads.
On snowy roads, given a 0-10 scale (where 0 is an F1 with racing slicks on wet ice and 10 is a Hummer with monster studded ice tires), the coupe's stock summer tires were about a 1, the ContiExtreme's are maybe a 4, and the AWD (I didn't even check its tires) was a solid 7. Accelerating--even in sharp turns--was a snap with the G35X, giving me almost too much confidence. I wouldn't worry too much about theoretical advantage other AWD systems may offer, but if you'd want maximum grip, your best bet is to invest in winter/ice tires (which will make much more of a difference than any fancy differential).
Jim Coleman in Bethesda. I'm not sure if ALL their loaners are X's, but when I went out to pick mine up, there were three others lined up next to it. I just asked for one, and they said 'no problem.'
They quoted me the service would be $540 or so when I dropped the car off, but when I picked it up the tab was for $487. I brought my own oil, which saved a few bucks, and I should have remembered to tell them not to add the stupid (and uncalled for, per the manual) "oil additive," which they charged me $10 for. Rosenthal (in Tysons) quoted me $695 for the service, so that was an easy call (Passport isn't terribly convenient for me).
Use ECON mode (AUTO/ECON button) to prevent activation of air conditioner in the heating mode. This "problem" was a source for my irritation as well. The real problem is that manual is not clear on this feature.
The following information is from the infinitihelp.com site:
What is the difference between "Auto" mode and "Econo" mode
AUTOMATIC OPERATION Cooling and/ or dehumidified heating (AUTO) This mode may be normally used all year round as the system automatically works to keep a constant temperature. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Push the AUTO button on. (AUTO will be displayed.) Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature. Adjust the temperature set dial to about 75° F (24° C) for normal operation. The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Heating (ECON) The air conditioner does not activate. When you need to heat only, use this mode.
Push the ECON (Economy) button on. (ECON will be displayed.) Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature. The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically. Do not set the temperature lower than the outside air temperature. Otherwise the system may not work properly. Not recommended if windows fog up.
Can anyone help me in identifying the roaring noise coming from front right wheel area of my 2004 G35 Coupe. The dealer says it is normal but the roar is getting worse. I have had the pads and rotors replaced but the noise has gotten worse. The tires do not seem to have any abnormal wear that could be contributing to the problem. I'm not getting any pulsation in the brakes which means the rotor is not warped. Is there anyone out there with a similar problem?
have 2004 g35 6 speed manuel brakes are sqeaking when coming to a stop. dealer says nothing wrong have 12000 miles on it squeak is very loud. does anyone else have this problem thanks
I don't see how those things would fit on the car. There's no cutout for the caliper. If they go between the rotor and the wheel they are going to reduce air flow over the rotor significantly. If they go on the inside (typical of dust shields), they aren't going to do anything to reduce dust on the wheels. Wax your wheels so the brake dust won't stick as well.
I agree with imacmil; I think they look goofy (since they completely obscure the rotors and calipers), and they can cause warping or other heat-induced problems.
Brake dust is one of those annoyances in life that must be dealt with. Waxing the wheels helps minimally from my experience, but I've read positive reports about switching to some low-dust brake pads.
I've had the car for two months now and one thing I noticed today has really took me by surprize: I saw an indentation on the driver's door plastic right where I keep my left elbow when my left hand is not on the wheel. I could not believe my eyes. It is small, but once I noticed it I cannot ignore it anymore. Has anyone noticed same problem or am I the lucky winner of the cheapest plastic door?
Hi if anyone has any info it would be a great help. Mon 3/7 i got into a accident w/ my g35 coupe i bought last year off the showroom floor. The tranny froze for a second then the shifter froze in manual mode and the trannys stuck in neutral. The dealership compleatly blew me off,said they sold me the car they didnt build it and for me to call infinity.If anyone has any similar info please help.They not helping to tow and wont give a loaner. help please
I would highly recommend trying this for all you '05 G35 5AT owners. I would have never found out about this problem if I didn't get stuck in LA's hectic traffic. From a stop, let go of the brake and do not depress the gas peddle. Let the car coast to approximately 10mph. It seems like some of the '03 models had this problem and it's back. In my car, the slip light flashes at less than 9mph. The dealer has not figured out a fix yet but they are going to replace the ABS control unit. It seems like that was for fix for the '03 models. I love this car but it sure doesn't hold up to their reliability ratings.
I don't understand; the dealer refuses to service your car? This sounds a little suspect. As for towing the car, I fortunately haven't needed the assistance, but doesn't Infiniti offer 24-hour roadside assistance for 2-3 years?
yes they say they give assistance and a loaner car but since the car got into a ccident because of the tranny they want nothing to do w/ me and offered no help,only said to call infinity and they said the same. they wont help until the car is checked by there own inspectors and then they may help
Just leased 2005 G35 sedan. On 2 seperate occasions while stopped at a red light and the engine just idling and my foot on brake, the car accelerated on its own (good thing nobody was in front of me). Had to throw it in park to get it back to normal. I only had this car 10 days and it is now in service for the 4th day performing diagnostics with no results so far. Very frustrating.
The only time I've ever experienced anything like this on an automatic was, if my foot was applying the brakes very lightly at a stop (just enough to stop the car from inching forward), and then I turned the AC on, it would cause the engine revs to increase a little, causing the car to creep up a little. But it sounds like what you're describing is more dramatic, and definitely a potentialy safety hazard. If it's any consolation, (1) I've never heard of such an issue with the G35's, and (2) Manufacturers take such issues very seriously because of the threats of lawsuits and federal investigations (not to mention word-of-mouth). I suspect this will either be fixed right, or you'll get a new car out of the deal.
I have an '03.5 sedan. Just recently, I hear a metalic rattling when first backing out with a cold engine (in 60 degree weather). I then put it in drive and hear the rattling again under low RPM's, but then it goes away as I get up to speed. After that, I don't hear the noise until starting out the next day.
Anybody else has this problem? What is it? Thanks!
There were several instances of uncontrolled acceleration reported on this thread. Do "sudden acceleration" search on this thread to learn more. This did happen to other people, so do not let the dealer/Infiniti off the hook. As far as I know G35 has drive by wire system, which is definitely a suspect in this case. Searching for technical bulletins could also help. Information is everything in cases like this. Good luck !
Dealer now tells me that they found no problems and I should pick up the car. But No way am I accepting this car with this very serious problem. I could have easily killed someone if they were walking in front of the car while I was stopped before the acceleration. I called Infiniti HQ and told them that I was going to report this to the Federal Dept Of Transportation and I recommend anyone who has had this problem do the same (WWW.DOT.GOV). Anyway HQ supposed to be calling the dealer and I am waiting to hear back. To be continued.
my dealer said that a rat/squirrel has eaten at the knock sensor wiring harness in my 03' g35 cpe. has anyone changed one of these, how much work is involved in changing the harness? thanks
Has anyone had a problem with condensation on the inside of the windows (mostly the rear) ? I have a 2004 35X and live in the northeast so it's been a cold winter but this problem occurs frequently. Thanks!
I have reluctantly take the car back from service. Another friend of mine mentioned that he thought the drive-by-wire technology could be the problem. When I mentioned this to service their response was "If we replace the computer and the problem reoccurs what then?" Well off that I have now sent a scathing letter to Pres. Nissan in Japan and, Pres Infiniti in Calif. with my complaints. Will keep you all posted.
Hello, I have an 04 G35 with the sports pack and premium pack. May be a similar aituation, when on bumpy roads, when I was accelerating and on on turns, i heard a rattle/squeak from the back of the drivers side door. Turns out it was part of the 'housing' of the rear window. Dealer fixed it. Hope this helps!
Under: "If You Suspect a Defect or Problem with Your Vehicle ", select: "Search Our Extensive Databases"
Then you can enter the car model, year, etc. and you will see the complaints. Here is one of them I found:
"I HAVE A 2004 GS SEDAN WITH ABOUT 2000 MILES ON IT PURCHASED IN OCTOBER 2003. IN THE LAST FEW DAYS I HAVE HAD THREE OCCASIONS WHEN THE ACCELERATOR FLOOR BOARDED ITSELF WITH NO ACTION ON MY PART TO CAUSE SUCH BEHAVIOR. ON ONE OCCASION THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 60, AND ACCELERATED TO 90 BEFORE I COULD GET THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL DID NOT DISENGAGE THE ACTION. THE SECOND TIME THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 50 AND THE SAME THING HAPPEN AS I GENTLY PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR TO PASS A CAR. THE ACCELERATOR UNEXPECTED WENT TO THE FLOOR, WITH RESULTANT VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. THIS TIME I HAD TO TURN THE IGNITION OFF, AND COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR WOULD NOT START SINCE THE ACCELERATOR WAS FLOORBOARDED. FINALLY GOT THE ACCELERATOR TO BREAK LOSE BY USING THE EDGE OF MY SHOE SOLE AND THE CAR WOULD RESTART, AND THEN BEHAVED NORMALLY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME. THE THIRD TIME I WAS NOT IN CRUISE CONTROL, HAD SLOWED FOR AN EXIT RAMP, AND THEN GENTLY PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR TO SPEED UP. AGAIN THE ACCELERATOR FLOORBOARDED ITSELF, WITH VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. I DISENGAGED THE BEHAVIOR BY AGAIN LIFTING THE ACCELERATOR WITH THE EDGE OF MY SHOE. ONE COULD FEEL A POP EACH TIME THE ACCELERATOR WAS LIFTED WITH THE SHOE. TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER WHO HAS NOW HAD IT FIVE DAYS. SAYS HE HAS NOT SEEN THIS BEHAVIOR AND HIS POSITION IS THAT UNLESS HE CAN REPLICATE IT HIMSELF THERE ARE NO REPAIRS TO MAKE. I WILL NOT TAKE CAR BACK UNTIL DEALER SIGNS A LETTER VALIDATING THAT I CONSIDER THE CAR UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND THAT HE WILL ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ACCIDENTS RELATED TO THE PROBLEM. EXPECT THAT THIS WILL LEAD TO AN IMPASSE WITH THE DEALER. *LA"
Hi all. I have not been on the boards in a long while I have a G35 sedan 2003 I bought in August 2002. I of course have the terrible problem with the brake dust. I use Meguire's All Wheel Cleaner on the alloy wheels and I also will wax them to help get the brake dust off easily. I see where I am getting some erosion or some of the clear coat that has eroded on all wheels, leaving a collection of small dots that are a different silver color from the surrounding area. It is very noticable. (please pardon my descriptions as I am not well versed in the auto language). I asked the Infiniti dealer about it and all they said was "That is a wheel issue and you have to go through the manufacturer of the wheels to get a fix. We don't know what that is." Huh? Does Infiniti not deal with the wheels? They put them on the car! Well, I don't know what to do now. I can't believe this is from the Meguire's cleaner. Can it be? Anyone else with this problem? I have had absolutely no problems at all with the G except that I hate that the paint chips so easily. I just love driving it and it is even more fun to drive since I just paid it off! thanks for any info. Patty.
Well I did more searching and I think what i have is "galvanic corrosion." Never knew about that. I wash my car every 1 or 2 weeks so I have no idea how the brake dust could have sat there. I used a sponge too to agitate the area and break the bond between the dust and wheel so they always came clean. I am stumped on this and not a very happy camper at all. The Meguires says it is pH balanced and does not contain the acidics that some products do. I guess now all I can do is try to prevent more of it. Any ideas? Any other products to suggest? I just cannot believe that this is happening so soon to my rims.
Does anyone at Infiniti care about a dealership with crummy service, or is that par for the course?
My local dealership (Miller Infiniti in Van Nuys, CA) could basically care less about me and my car. You can't get the service department on the phone to save your life, they won't return phone calls, and if you drive in they basically won't talk to you unless you have an appointment - which seem to be scheduled out about a month in advance. It's unbelievable that I can pull into the service department of a dealership and over a period of 20 minutes there's not a single person who will ask me if I need help. The couple of people that are around are sitting on the phone trying desperately not to make eye contact. My Saturn dealership jumped all over the chance to help me!
I've complained to the dealership, but I'm wondering if it's worth complaining to Infiniti? I'm starting to get the Slip and Brake lights coming up on my dash for no reason (2003 G35 sedan, auto), and I can't even get someone to talk to at the dealership. I sure as heck won't buy another Infiniti when my lease is up, even though I love the car. I just don't trust them to stand behind it. But I don't know if anyone at Infiniti cares about that or not. Frustrating.
Question for you... when does your slip light come on (ie. at whats speeds?) Does it flash or is it steady? Is this the first time it's happening? I have a '05 G35 that does this-slip light flashes at about 7mph with both feet on the floor. For an '03, there is a service bulletin out regarding this problem. The dealer needs to replace the ABS control uni. That's what the dealer is doing with my '05. As for the service department at my dealership..... they are clueless and very unorganized to say the least. Seems like they don't communicate well within their department. I love this car but I really hate wasting my off days at the dealership. I stayed away from the bimmer for their reliability, but I'm beginning to regret. Good luck!
bought a 03 G35 sedan from dealer, auto, still under warranty. I found out as I started the car, only one exhaust pipe has emission, another pipe has nothing out, and looks quite clean. This "clean" pipe is only a bit warm after I drove for about 20 minutes, but another one is quite hot. I stopped by the local dealer, and they told me it is normal, it is a build-in air flow valve control two pipes, and direct gas flow to one pipe only most of the time. I never heard about it, did they tell me the truth or not?
Update on serious problem: Well folks, the dealer replaced the car with a new one. Dealer was taking credit for this action however I trully believe it was my letter to the President Nissan in Japan and the VP & GM Infiniti division (Mark Igo) that forced this action. The only G-35 in the color I had (garnet) that they had in stock was with the $750 sport package. I told them I was not going to pay a penny more than my previous lease which they agreed upon. So unless new problems occur, this appears to have a happy ending.
Update: After 2 painful visits to the dealer (9 days in the shop), this problem has been fixed. The ABS control module was replaced and the slip light does not flash anymore at 7-10mph.
Admire your courage. I don't know if I could fight as much as you did in your situation. Let me ask you a question: given another chance, do you still choose a Infiniti? It is more like a question I need to ask myself - I am considering buying a Infiniti G35x. Safety (with its AWD, over Acura TL) and reliability (over BMW and Audi) am the two main factors that Infiniti attracts me so far, but the problem you had with Infiniti really make me hesitate.
Can someone enlighten me?? How common this problem is in G35 cars?
Tough question. I love the car but the problem I had with the one just turned in will always be on my mind when driving this one. Apparantly my complaint filed with the NHTSA was the only one on the 2005 model, although there were a couple of similar complaints on file with the 2004's. You can go to the Dept Of Transportation site (www.dot.gov) and click on "report a vehicle safety problem" and then click search under complaints. I had a 2002 Audi A6 prior to the G35 and I cant tell you how many times it was in service for various problems including needing a new tranny after 15,000 miles. Good luck with whatever decision you come to.
Hey folks - I'm moving closer and closer towards a 2005 G35 Sedan. There are 80 pages of messages here - and more on other forums... Can someone point me to a summary of the most frequent complaints / issues with this car? I recall seeing something about brake dust damaging wheels - which is something that is close to my heart, but don't know if it is a systemic problem or not. Any other major problems with this car?
I have had wheel noise from the front tires (bearings?). Worse between 20-40 mph.Dealer says that my 23,400 mile G35 Coupe has wheel alignment issues.The tires do exhibit wear indicating alignment problems.But nothing that could cause this rumbling.Raised the car on the jack & rotated the wheels.No noticable bearing noise in no load condition.Getting the alignment done is part of the solution.Of course the dealer says I need new tires to complete the fix.I have the Michelin sports.The rear tires are worn evenly & rather thoroughly.The front aren't really so bad. I'll have an alignment done on 3-30.Besides the rumbling issue, what is good tire life for these Michelin Sports? They handle great.But 24,000? That may not be too bad but if the rumbling is part of these tires they won't fly!
My current car has (had) very nice aluminum wheels. Break dust though after just a short period of time, took it's toll on them. The fine matrix of "wire-like" wheel design made it almost impossible to get clean once it set in for a short period of time.
Comments
But they have been correct with me, although they refused to give me the performance package for the same price; so they gave me the wheel package free of charge. It does not replace the additional safety that the vlsd represents, especially in snowing conditions, but...
They also fixed the paint problem.
So all together, I am happy with the service, especially compared with the arrogance of the BMW dealer in the same town, that seems to make you a favor when you enter the show room.
Any input would be appreciated.
Did the converter check today by driving at 75 MPH using cruise control on a level straight stretch of the road, with tachometer showing 2750 rpm. Then, without disengaging cruise control, shifted lever to the manual mode, up-shifted from 4th to 5th gear and was observing the same 2750 rpm. I also tried to cancel cruise control in both automatic and manual mode and observed approximately the same rate of rpm decrease, which seem to be proportional to the drop in speed.
I have 2004 G35 Auto, about 1 month old, with 1800 miles on the odometer.
It might be not related to your question, but I did noticed changes in the auto mode shifting. I think this was related to the away I drove first 1200 miles (break-in) vs. more aggressive driving afterwards.
I know that your issue is with "manual" mode, which should not be affected by learning algorithms utilized in auto mode. The "manual" mode however is not completely manual: slowing down from approx. 50 MPH to complete stop I observed gear changed from 5th to 4th and so on to the 1st, all without my shifting, i.e. automatically. I am wondering if the issue you are describing is related to software glitch rather than to the transmission mechanical problem. If you have less than 1200 miles on odometer and still breaking-in, I would wait until you can drive car hard for a few hundred miles, and then try your experiment again.
Thanks for trying out the experiment. My 05 G35 is still breaking-in at 600+ miles and I'm not pushing it hard. I'll will try with the cruise control at 60MPH and also at 75MPH to see if they matter. If you could, please try the test again without using the cruise control at the lower 60MPH speed. May be in manual shift mode, the torque converter will lockup later and/or at a higher cruising speed.
On snowy roads, given a 0-10 scale (where 0 is an F1 with racing slicks on wet ice and 10 is a Hummer with monster studded ice tires), the coupe's stock summer tires were about a 1, the ContiExtreme's are maybe a 4, and the AWD (I didn't even check its tires) was a solid 7. Accelerating--even in sharp turns--was a snap with the G35X, giving me almost too much confidence. I wouldn't worry too much about theoretical advantage other AWD systems may offer, but if you'd want maximum grip, your best bet is to invest in winter/ice tires (which will make much more of a difference than any fancy differential).
Thanks
Mark
They quoted me the service would be $540 or so when I dropped the car off, but when I picked it up the tab was for $487. I brought my own oil, which saved a few bucks, and I should have remembered to tell them not to add the stupid (and uncalled for, per the manual) "oil additive," which they charged me $10 for. Rosenthal (in Tysons) quoted me $695 for the service, so that was an easy call (Passport isn't terribly convenient for me).
Use ECON mode (AUTO/ECON button) to prevent activation of air conditioner in the heating mode. This "problem" was a source for my irritation as well. The real problem is that manual is not clear on this feature.
The following information is from the infinitihelp.com site:
What is the difference between "Auto" mode and "Econo" mode
AUTOMATIC OPERATION
Cooling and/ or dehumidified heating (AUTO) This mode may be normally used all year round as the system automatically works to keep a constant temperature. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Push the AUTO button on. (AUTO will be displayed.)
Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature.
Adjust the temperature set dial to about 75° F (24° C) for normal operation.
The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Heating (ECON)
The air conditioner does not activate. When you need to heat only, use this mode.
Push the ECON (Economy) button on. (ECON will be displayed.)
Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature.
The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Do not set the temperature lower than the outside air temperature. Otherwise the system may not work properly.
Not recommended if windows fog up.
Enjoy the drive !
http://www.brakedustcover.com/performance/buy.php?make=in&year=2003&model=g35&part_name=br- ake_dust_shields&brand=kleen_wheels&skipped=true
Brake dust is one of those annoyances in life that must be dealt with. Waxing the wheels helps minimally from my experience, but I've read positive reports about switching to some low-dust brake pads.
Anybody else has this problem? What is it? Thanks!
thanks
To see more complaints about the G35 accelerator problem you can go to: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
Under:
"If You Suspect a Defect or Problem with Your Vehicle ", select: "Search Our Extensive Databases"
Then you can enter the car model, year, etc. and you will see the complaints. Here is one of them I found:
"I HAVE A 2004 GS SEDAN WITH ABOUT 2000 MILES ON IT PURCHASED IN OCTOBER 2003. IN THE LAST FEW DAYS I HAVE HAD THREE OCCASIONS WHEN THE ACCELERATOR FLOOR BOARDED ITSELF WITH NO ACTION ON MY PART TO CAUSE SUCH BEHAVIOR. ON ONE OCCASION THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 60, AND ACCELERATED TO 90 BEFORE I COULD GET THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL DID NOT DISENGAGE THE ACTION. THE SECOND TIME THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 50 AND THE SAME THING HAPPEN AS I GENTLY PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR TO PASS A CAR. THE ACCELERATOR UNEXPECTED WENT TO THE FLOOR, WITH RESULTANT VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. THIS TIME I HAD TO TURN THE IGNITION OFF, AND COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR WOULD NOT START SINCE THE ACCELERATOR WAS FLOORBOARDED. FINALLY GOT THE ACCELERATOR TO BREAK LOSE BY USING THE EDGE OF MY SHOE SOLE AND THE CAR WOULD RESTART, AND THEN BEHAVED NORMALLY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME. THE THIRD TIME I WAS NOT IN CRUISE CONTROL, HAD SLOWED FOR AN EXIT RAMP, AND THEN GENTLY PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR TO SPEED UP. AGAIN THE ACCELERATOR FLOORBOARDED ITSELF, WITH VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. I DISENGAGED THE BEHAVIOR BY AGAIN LIFTING THE ACCELERATOR WITH THE EDGE OF MY SHOE. ONE COULD FEEL A POP EACH TIME THE ACCELERATOR WAS LIFTED WITH THE SHOE. TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER WHO HAS NOW HAD IT FIVE DAYS. SAYS HE HAS NOT SEEN THIS BEHAVIOR AND HIS POSITION IS THAT UNLESS HE CAN REPLICATE IT HIMSELF THERE ARE NO REPAIRS TO MAKE. I WILL NOT TAKE CAR BACK UNTIL DEALER SIGNS A LETTER VALIDATING THAT I CONSIDER THE CAR UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND THAT HE WILL ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ACCIDENTS RELATED TO THE PROBLEM. EXPECT THAT THIS WILL LEAD TO AN IMPASSE WITH THE DEALER. *LA"
Good luck!
My local dealership (Miller Infiniti in Van Nuys, CA) could basically care less about me and my car. You can't get the service department on the phone to save your life, they won't return phone calls, and if you drive in they basically won't talk to you unless you have an appointment - which seem to be scheduled out about a month in advance. It's unbelievable that I can pull into the service department of a dealership and over a period of 20 minutes there's not a single person who will ask me if I need help. The couple of people that are around are sitting on the phone trying desperately not to make eye contact. My Saturn dealership jumped all over the chance to help me!
I've complained to the dealership, but I'm wondering if it's worth complaining to Infiniti? I'm starting to get the Slip and Brake lights coming up on my dash for no reason (2003 G35 sedan, auto), and I can't even get someone to talk to at the dealership. I sure as heck won't buy another Infiniti when my lease is up, even though I love the car. I just don't trust them to stand behind it. But I don't know if anyone at Infiniti cares about that or not. Frustrating.
Thanks for your help
Well folks, the dealer replaced the car with a new one. Dealer was taking credit for this action however I trully believe it was my letter to the President Nissan in Japan and the VP & GM Infiniti division (Mark Igo) that forced this action. The only G-35 in the color I had (garnet) that they had in stock was with the $750 sport package. I told them I was not going to pay a penny more than my previous lease which they agreed upon.
So unless new problems occur, this appears to have a happy ending.
After 2 painful visits to the dealer (9 days in the shop), this problem has been fixed. The ABS control module was replaced and the slip light does not flash anymore at 7-10mph.
Admire your courage. I don't know if I could fight as much as you did in your situation. Let me ask you a question: given another chance, do you still choose a Infiniti? It is more like a question I need to ask myself - I am considering buying a Infiniti G35x. Safety (with its AWD, over Acura TL) and reliability (over BMW and Audi) am the two main factors that Infiniti attracts me so far, but the problem you had with Infiniti really make me hesitate.
Can someone enlighten me?? How common this problem is in G35 cars?
Good luck with whatever decision you come to.
Worse between 20-40 mph.Dealer says that my 23,400 mile G35 Coupe has wheel alignment issues.The tires do exhibit wear indicating alignment problems.But nothing that could cause this rumbling.Raised the car on the jack & rotated the wheels.No noticable bearing noise in no load condition.Getting the alignment done is part of the solution.Of course the dealer says I need new tires to complete the fix.I have the Michelin sports.The rear tires are worn evenly & rather thoroughly.The front aren't really so bad.
I'll have an alignment done on 3-30.Besides the rumbling issue, what is good tire life for these Michelin Sports?
They handle great.But 24,000?
That may not be too bad but if the rumbling is part of these tires they won't fly!
My current car has (had) very nice aluminum wheels. Break dust though after just a short period of time, took it's toll on them. The fine matrix of "wire-like" wheel design made it almost impossible to get clean once it set in for a short period of time.