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Sedan-out in late 2011 as 2012 model
Coupe-out in late 2012 as 2013 model
Thanks for the tip.
One question on remote car buying. Is it ok to make the purchase remotely and have it shipped or do I need to fly there to do the paperwork and then ship it myself?
Gross Cap Cost: 36,646.36
cap cost reduct from out of pocket: 2650.17 + title reg fees doc fees, acq fee ect.
resid value: 23,556.00
Lease 39months 12k miles
monthly payment: 400.00 including tax
Out of pocket at signing: 3700.00 total included first month
any other information i can provide please let me know. thx for any input.
I will go back there today.
People can't evaluate your lease deal just by the monthly payment but judging by the fact that it's a nice round number tells me that you told the dealer that your monthly budget for car payment was $400 so he simply made the down payment (i.e. cap cost reduction) large enough to get the monthly payment down to $400. The edmunds.com lease guides will also tell you never to negotiate on monly payment. I can make an $80K Mercedes cost $400/month to lease with a large enough down payment. The only way people can evaluate your lease deal is if they know the MSRP (i.e. sticker price), negotiated price (i.e. gross cap cost) which appears to be $36.646.36, money factor, residual percentage and term which you said is 39 months. The only number in the lease deal that you can influence is the negotiated price (i.e. gross cap cost). If your gross cap cost is more than $1K over invoice price (i.e. dealer cost), then you probably didn't get a good deal. You can get the invoice price of your car with options right here on edmunds.com but you need to make sure you put in ALL the options to calculate it correctly. There were also dealer incentives which you should have known about in advance to help you negotiate with the dealer. Some apply to both leasing and purchasing and some only to purchasing.
If you follow this forum and the Infiniti G37 lease questions forum, you'll see that most people simply focus on the negotiated price of the car because that's the only number you can influence in the lease payment calculation. The other numbers in the calculation - MSRP, money factor, residual percentage, term and tax rate are fixed. You cannot negotiate to have them changes.
As previously stated that is a ridiculous amount of money to put down. You should NEVER put any cap cost reduction down, and your put $2650 down.
Sorry you are stuck with this deal for the next 39 months.
Hopefully this experience will teach you how to lease your next vehicle.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
Thanks
It appears that he got himself a 2010 G37x sedan with premium package, trunk mat & net, and first aid kit, with a MSRP of $39,260 and invoice of $36,179. His cap cost $36,646 is $467 over invoice, or $967 over invoice considering the $500 dealer cash. The TMV for that car on Edmunds is $38,112 for SoCal -- one of the most competitive market in the nation. I know, I know, Edmunds TMV is always too high because it lags behind true market condition. Let's subtract $1,000 from there and another $500 for dealer cash, you get $36,612 -- basically what he paid. Again, not the best deal there is but fair.
And the good news is, in a lease situation, you only paid for the portion you use. For argument sake, let's say he over paid by $500 to $800 ($1,000 would be a strech). In the 39 months he would have used 40% (100% - 60% residual) of the car's value, so the impact really is just $200 to $320, if at all.
Now, plug in the above figures, his down pay of $2,650, MF of 0.00188, residual 60%, and 39-month term, I got a monthly payment of $375.90 before tax. Depending on the sales tax rate in his state, there seems to be little to no mark-up on the MF.
Of course, I totally agree that one should never put a down payment on a lease for the reason/risk cited. However, money-wise, it is a wash and may just be personal preferrance.
Considering that he went in without doing his homework, the salesperson/dealership could have taken him for a ride. Instead, they gave him a fair deal. On the other hand, he saved countless hours surfing forum to forum and dealership to dealership. As the saying goes, time is money.
So, bostbeans, relax and enjoy your new ride. I know it is a great car!
PS What state do you live in? (tax purposes)
15K miles / 24 months
and
15k miles / 36 months
Thank you.
I live in massachusetts.
I just wanted a fair deal, and I am learning a lot about leasing on this website. This is really an informative website, I like it a lot. Thank you again for the information.
Don't listen to anyone who is telling you that the deal you got was terrible. I can assure you it wasn't. Bottom line is that you have a great car and are happy with it. Everyone in here is so concerned about what profit the dealer makes... please remember that us salesman have to make a living as well. I work in the Internet department so most of the deals I do are at the bare minimum. I get paid $150 commission if the profit is below $500. I don't get paid off holdback. All I'm saying is that the salesman proposed a fair deal and got paid a fair commission. That's ok you know. He or she has to make a living to.
Winning its category of Sporty Sedan for the fourth year in a row, the Infiniti
G37 is recognized by Consumer Reports as “ one of the highest-rated sedans we've tested, with a score of 95 out of 100. It provides an appealing combination
of agile handling, blistering acceleration, a refined powertrain, a fairly
comfortable ride, and a high-quality, luxurious interior.
There's some more evidence for all of you out there who are comparing the G Sedan to the BMW's 3-series and other competitors.
What I've learned from being on these boards here at Edmunds is that you tell someone you paid a $5 for a car. Then, you'll find someone who says you paid too much, and that you could have bought it for $4, because they did (if you believe them).
Congrats on the new car.
I still need to find a good auto shipper. Please, someone on here has got to have some good experience with auto shipping companies. I need a few names.
Thanks
http://www.reliable-carriers.com/
Don't know if that helps.
It seems the Northeast coast has better pricing even with a higher cost of living.
The Florida dealers really take advantage of the no doc. fee limits. Up to
$900. It really is amusing.
Thanks
$900 is a ridiculous dealer fee. I work at Infiniti of Tampa and our dealer fee is $599
Unfortunately there is no way getting around it... it can't be taken off as it's pre-printed on the buyers order. What I do is when someone gripes about the dealer fee and wants it waived if I still have room to move in the deal I just see about taking $599 off the sales price or as much as I can to compensate for it. A customer who just purchased an FX35 from me asked us to split it with him, so that's usually the best way about getting around the dealer fee.
Also a ridiculous amount even if you split that in half. They should make dealers paste the dealer fee in big bold print right next to the maroney sticker on the vehicle window. Competition would probably cure the practise or maybe people would put enough pressure on their legislatures to enact laws to limit this crap....like most progressive states have done. I think it's max of $75 in CA and around $150 in IL.
Bottom line on my rant - look at the entire deal NOT just the price. Look at drive out cost (after trade-in, fees, etc) when you compare dealerships - NOT just the price. Take into consideration the payment and terms - NOT just the price. (If I sell a car for $33,500 but am offering 4.9% and someone else is selling a car for $33,350 but you don't know the rate - they could easily make up the $150 by charging 5%, they charge you 5.9% and they made way more).
Just my thoughts - keep in mind any quotes out of Florida on this site add about $700 to.
Advice from the inside.....have a great weekend....
If the consumer does not feel the overall deal is good he can go somewhere else, but it will be the same - see previous post.
A lot a states cap document fees. They manage to stay in business.
What's the difference between an excessive "dealer fee" and an "adjusted market value" sticker? Both are phony charges. I just thought that saying that's "it's printed on the sales order, so you have to pay it" is silly. A dealership can have any number they want printed on it.
Personally, if I was negotiating the price of a car, I would just just go for the bottom line number. I would ignore the add on fee. If the dealer accepted my offer, they can divide it up any way they want. I do think that if I saw unrealistic "fees", I would be wondering where else they're trying for extra profit.
I didn't mean for my comments to be taken as a personal attack against the poster. I understand it's his dealership's policy not his.
That pretty much sums it up...
We charge $140 - the amount we calculated to collect to actually cover the cost of processing all the paperwork.
I'm guessing the $140 is more like... .whatever the market will bear.. since, before last year, Texas had a cap of $50 on doc fees, and no one went out of business charging $50..
I say give those guys in Texas a couple of years, and they'll be right up there with Florida... After all, everything is bigger in TEXAS!!
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BTW....many car dealers have gone out of business in Texas..
How does this deal sound:
G37 Sedan w Prem and Nav for 38,600 OTD (9.25% tax in NorCal) and 36 months zero percent financing?
A G37 with Prem and Navi (plus some random accessories as they all do) will have a MSRP around $39,500 and an invoice of $36,300. The $38,600 OTD works out to about $34,800 plus TTL. The dealer cash for 0% financing is only $500, which means that you are getting about $1,000 below invoice. That is an incredible price if you are not using VPP. I have not seen this kind of price in SoCal. It may be a month-end push for sales.
I would jump on it if I were you.
Good luck!
The invoice for prem + nav + dest fee ($865) is $37,635.
Thoughts appreciated?
Rough figures......~50 cents/mile is generally the figure I use to figure gas usage and wear and tear when figuring driving my own vehicles. In this instance, no wear and tear (which is likely to be minimal anyway).