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Comments
Don't walk into any dealership to negotiate because that marks you as a sucker.
Acura Scottsdale gave us the "We don't negotiate on these, there's a 30 person waitlist"
So, I went home and e-mailed them, they immediately dropped $1000 off. I told them "thanks but I'll shop more" They went to $2000 off, then that plus free oil changes, wheel locks and "We'll beat anyone's price". Peoria went from 40665 for a base model straight to 37995.
Get on the internet, and e-mail the internet sales department of the 3 Phoenix area dealers and Chapman in Tucson. They are very eager for your business when you're a just a click away from their competition.
Got it for 42097 + Plus Tax & Regis.
Do you think it is a good price ?
:shades:
Which dealer in NJ, please..?
Thanks
ED
thanks in advance.
I bought the 2007 MDX, and the sales people "avoided" / "did some muted nods" when I asked about the finance with the dealership. They made my fill the credit application even before I came into the agreement to buy.
When I ended up in the finance department, they came up with 7.99 APR and 66 months finance papers. It was like a shock to me. They didn't even ask whether I have my own finance, my preference of terms (3 year / 5 / 6 year loan). I had asked them to change the duration of loan etc and made my own adjustments later on.
1.99% is just for the RDX and other models. 2007 MDX is not eligible, according to them. (may be true).
What are your experiences ?
Tell them Howard sent ya!
During a recent test drive in sport/entertainment my teen complained about a really rough ride in the second row seat. Before I buy, I'll have to test drive both sport and the non-sport to see the difference and also get a better idea of the comfort ride in the sport.
If you don't mind me asking, what did your monthly lease payment come out too. Also, what was your total drive off?
Adam
Right now I am looking at this offer.
* 2007 MDX technology/sports package, including entertainment package
* 48 months
* 15,000/year
* $2,500 down
= $600/month payment
I leased a 2007 MDX Sport for 36 months at 12,000 miles.
MSRP: $46,265
Cap Cost: 42,588
Acq Fee: 595
Down: 3.86 (just to make my due at lease even)
MF: .0029 (can do a security deposit for .0028 mf)
Residual: 59%
Sales Tax: 7.75%
Due At Signing
First month + tax / license fees: $1097
Total Montly Fee: $695.60
Hope this helps.
Jay.
Thanks!
(4) How long before the purchase should I start e-mailing the dealerships asking for their best price? 1month? 2? Planning to get MDX/Tech, but am I no hurry to buy. Thanks, - MS.
i am in the same shoes .. want to buy but not in a hurry. a trend i've been seeing is you can get a good deal near the end of the month. u can start sending / bouncing emails in the beginning / middle of the month and close in the end. Always try to get a car available in the lot (not a pre-sale / pre-order).
unless your area has a very strong demand and very short supply, you should get more than "a little lower than MSRP". I think every dealer will start with that line.
Good luck and keep us posted.
breese
3758 at signing
460 per month
48 month
10000 miles/year
Is this a good deal or an email bait to get me in ?
Of course, the color of my choice.
Any other things I need to clarify to make sure it is not just an email enticement.
You guys in NY and NJ apparently get all the deals. In the Denver area MDX is in such high demand that dealers are getting sticker plus an extra $500-$1000 for "market adjustment" pricing on these cars.
I'll wait till early next year and see if I can get a deal on an '08 or '07 close out.
What dealer on the island quoted you that...we are looking on long island and that seems pretty good to me...thanks
also: do others have a view?
If you want to know if you got a good deal find out what invoice (dealer cost) is on the vehicle and how much above or below that you paid.
Market forces are different in different cities. Some people are lucky to get $500 off of sticker even if they ship many different vehicles because the vehicle is in demand in their market or the particular color combination they want is in high demand and sells more quickly at local dealerships.
In other markets dealers have dozens of vehicles sitting on the lot costing them money that they need to move right away and are willing to bring down to invoice price almost immediately with some negotiation.
A "good deal" is being happy with the price you paid for the vehicle you got. Are you happy with the price you paid? If yes then you got a good deal.
In the end, if you are willing to spend that much, what's another couple thousands to get what you really want. I would say a big congratz for all the buyers getting such a super car, regardless of the buying price.
Now to the detail - Observing this forum, I notice NJ buyers got (close to) invoice price. In TX, a little (500-1k) below MSRP is the norm. West Coast - I see buyers getting midrange in between invoice and MSRP.
The spread between invoice and MSRP is about 4k typically. I would say it's a reasonably good deal, if you get somewhere in the midrange (+1k to +3k) from invoice price.
If you can sit and wait for the right car at the right price, try to get closer to the invoice. If you can't wait, then try to stay within that "+1 to +3" range. Just remember you're getting a really nice car (what's another thousand or two)
I have learned a lot from this forum and can't pull the trigger yet (due to personal reason). Will post my buying price and experience when i get mine.
Peace,
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
Not too long ago in this thread another potential buyer was crying about how an MDX lease was $600-$700 a month when leases on other vehicles are in the $500 range. Keep in mind that "lease deals" are usually done by manufacturers on slow selling vehicles to get them leased (sold to the leasing company). In these cases the manufacturer eats some of the cost of selling the vehicle at a discounted price. While great deals, don't expect these "subtended leases" on new, hot vehicles that are selling well. These are luxury vehicles and your budget for them should appropriately reflect that.
I think that the price thread is useful because it gives a barometer of what prices are like in different markets.
"Now that it's too late and I've already bought it, did I get a good deal?"
Thanks to all who post, the info was helpful!
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
It is not a question of making or breaking, or how much we can afford. If we can pay $41K for a car, we could pay $43K, too (talking about MDX/Tech). The problem starts when the guy in the next cubicle at work starts boasting that he got the same vehicle for $39K - it makes me feel stupid and believe me, I can think of a bunch of ways to spend an extra $4K. Worse problem: when the wife points out a friend who got to pay $38K and tells me how I am no good at car shopping (and a lot of other things).
This is a wonderful forum, and I am so grateful for all the insights. To that end - a question - If similarly equipped vehicles are selling for $41K in Dallas and $39K in NJ/NY area, I might consider flying out to NY and drive the MDX back home. If I do that, what are the tax implications? Do I pay sales tax to NY or TX? What if I buy it over the internet? Is there such a thing?
I am planning to get one on 6/30/2007, will build the vehicle and start e-mailing the dealerships for their quotes on 5/15/2007. Lets see where it goes. Somehow
cannot buy the car next month, for personal reasons. Oh well, will wait for one more month. Good wishes to y'all, - MS.
Again, if you are in a hot market for the car it will be difficult or impossible to get it for invoice unless you have a month or two (at least) to negotiate with several different dealers. Even then you might find that $1000-$2000 off is the best you can do.
As to others "boasting" of getting a better deal, well, what can I say, some people are better negotiators than others, but also, people LIE about the deals they get. All the time. As to your wife belittling you, can't help you there.
I seriously question the wisdom of buying a $40K+ vehicle and driving it across country to save a couple of thousand bucks. Not only will some of those savings evaporate after buying a ticket and gasoline, but the number one taboo of engine break in is to avoid running the engine at constant RPM for the first several hundred miles (which is exactly what is going to happen if you drive it on the highway for a couple of days)
This just goes to remind me why I pay more for a new car that I get to break in myself, rather than the huge savings of getting a two year old "peach" that is coming in from a lease return.
Buying out-of-state: instead of dealer taking care of all the paperwork (title, registration, license, etc.), you do it yourself. Tax is also paid when you register & apply for title (If you ever bought a used car from private party, you know how it's like).
I don't think you can buy new car over the internet. You can however negotiate prices via email (... if you consider that buying over the internet.)
I am interested on your posting because I am also planning to buy in the month of June.
You'll probably get a better deal (..correction: get a deal you can justify..), if you buy car in stock. This will require quite a bit of emailing or calling around to find which dealer(s) has/have it. The best scenario is if a couple dealers have the car you want! You ping-pong the price between the 2 dealers and have them do "how low can you go", till one gives up (or until you give up ... :P )
Good luck and happy shopping ... or hunting.
If you include an accessory such as side steps and side body moldings does dealer need to charge for installation fee or should that already be included in the accessory price? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Great forum by the way!
$44K including tax etc for tech/ent ?? This is way below invoice by atleast 1.5K ?? Hard to believe.
My initials are M.S.