2013 and earlier BMW 3-Series Prices Paid and Buying Experience

nyccarguy · January 2008

The dealership in Manhattan is owned by BMWNA (as is Westchester BMW, the closest dealer to where I live).

Depending on where on Long Island you live, it might be worth a phone call or email to Wide World of Cars. Have you tried Raylle BMW in Roslyn? They usuall have some pretty aggressive lease deals in the paper. Habberstad BMW (in Huntington?) is a big advertiser in the NY chapter of BMWCCA's moagazine. Have you tried there?

nyccarguy · January 2008

335xi sedan has a 61% residual but a .00210 money factor for a 36 month/45K lease.

ursamajor · January 2008

for a 2008 36mo/10k/yr lease, MF is currently .00210 with residual of .64; security deposit of approx. $ 600 required for this MF. I locked .0020 at end of December on an order of a 335xi with MSRP of $ 47575, cap. cost of $ 44880, $ 500 over invoice, mo. pmt. before sales tax of $ 551.54; drive-off = license 361.75 + bank fee 625 + doc. fee 45 + 1st pmt w/sales tax of $ 597.05 + security 600 = 2284.07. It's supposed to be delivered to me, which saves me two hours driving across LA. Anyone do better? I was told that if the MF declines prior to executing the lease, I'll receive the benefit of the lower rate. Have to wait for February, after the Fed lowers f.f. by whatever they have in mind.

pdude1 · January 2008

Nice! Where did you get this in LA? I'm looking for a 335i coupe myself and the dealers I've spoken too have told me the most they would do would be max of $500 under since it's a coupe.

ursamajor · January 2008

First, my experience has always been, no exceptions yet, the Internet sales departments have better deals than the "regular sales guys."

Second, Pacific seems to always open with their first deal being their best; no BS.
I asked a couple of competitiors to beat and they couldn't "quite" match.

http://www.pacificbmw.com/

Go to the link above and build your own, make an offer ( I went with dealer's invoice and they countered with $ 500 over--painless, and so far the best deal I can find).

jkcy · January 2008

I am offered at $500 over invoice from a northern california dealer

Base Price $29,810.00
Metallic Paint $430.00
Premium Package $2,960.00
Auto Transmission $1,210.00
Navigation System $1,910.00
Heated Front Seats $455.00
iPod USB $365.00

$38495 + $580 + $500 = $38995

I have to find out what kind of $580 fee is that.

lpan · January 2008

$500 over invoice?! No way!

And which vehicle is this? Are you sure it's the 2008 328i coupe?

I don't see any vehicles with a base price in the $29,000 range!

BTW, i'm attempting to negotiate for $1,000 over invoce (Or $2,000 off invoice)

jkcy · January 2008

oops.. mine is sedan

drrocket · January 2008

Anybody have experience with the Costco Auto Buying Service? A salesman I was dealing with conferred with a supervisor (but not the Costco contact, who was not in today) and said it would be $1000 over invoice for a build-to-my-specifications 2008 328i sedan. Does that sound like a good deal or should I expect better from Costco, or even general Internet pricing?

voldermort · January 2008

Thank you.

You really are a good help. so many of us are so lost with this, and we do our homework, email the dealers and they don't want to budge. Maybe I am asking for an unrealistic number?
1. BTW - is it true that all internet managers and fleet managers to BMW dealerships get commission and that is why we get replies from Internet "Consultants" or Internet Sales Coordinators? :mad: I have been asking for only the internet manager or fleet manager because I remember reading that they do not get commissioned only salaried. An I approaching it wrong? I just do not want to bother a salesperson who does what most of us do I guess, sell! And they live by their commissions.

Also, I went on autoleaseadvisors.com and am confused about plugging in my numbers.

2. Where do I put the $625 bank fee?

3.And is the Capitalized Cost the agreed Selling Price (38,525 dealer invoice plus dealer invoice options not including acquisition fee because there is a column for that in autoleaseadvisers) -

4.Cap reduction - isn't that for purchasing a car? I was told that this would be like throwing money away. Is that true?

5. What number do I put in Cap Reduction?

6.Security Deposit? Should I make a security deposit? :confuse:

I will give the dealers you mentioned a call I guess because emails are not working.

But first, I would like to hear from you.

7.(ALSO: a trade in where does that go on the autoleaseadvisers columns?)

Thank you again nyccarguy! I am sure your answers will help alot of us.

jkcy · January 2008

I'm looking for purchasing a new 2008 328 4 dr sedan. So far I've got $800 over invoice from the dealers around the Bay Area. That includes what they called MACO fee. So invoice price + $800 + tax + document fee is what I'll pay for. May I know if anyone of you are getting better pricings from your dealers? I'd love to hear from you. It's very likely they have to order me the car since the options/combinations I pick are not available in the lot.

lpan · January 2008

Hey,
I think I finally got a good deal - check it out:

328 xi COUPE
+ Automatic
+ Metallic Pain

MSRP: $39,625
Invoice: $36,545
Price: $$37,500 (~$950 over invoice, $2,100 under MSRP!)

Dealer is in NJ - worth the trip from NY :-)

nyccarguy · January 2008

Capitalized Cost is the selling price of the car. It is essentially the amount the dealership is selling the car to BMWFS for.

The $625 bank fee is an UPFRONT fee. Not to be rolled into the cost of the lease.

Cap Reduction is often refered to as "Down Payment" or "Capitalized Cost Reduction." Your Cap Cost Reduction should be $0. So many people pay Cap Cost Reductions on leases because it "lowers their payments." This drives me absolutely INSANE! :mad: If you put a Money Down on a lease, if the car is stolen or totalled at any time during the duration of the lease, you are out of that money.

You should pay a security deposit. If you don't they'll automatically bump up your money factor which will in turn increase your monthly payment.

Good luck and let me know how things turn out.

nyccarguy · January 2008

$950 over invoice in our area is a stellar deal! Congratulations! Enjoy your car. :shades:

voldermort · January 2008

This is pretty good!
What is the name of your dealer? Ur mthly payment is based on 36/45k? What would that be?

jkcy · January 2008

Weatherford, Pleasanton, Peter Pan, Fremont BMW all are able to do $800 over invoice. Have spoken to them. I believe there is still room to go down a bit more as I haven't gotten to the final negotiation stage.

skobola · January 2008

I believe that the $625 bank fee is NOT an UPFRONT fee and that it can be rolled into the cost of the lease. I have been opting to include it in my CAP for quite some time, that is, as long as the MF is lower than what I get by leaving my money in the bank.

kyfdx · January 2008

I think the actual answer is a little of both..

The fee is an upfront fee.. BMWFS charges it at lease signing...

However, as with almost any other cost, it can be rolled into the CAP cost, and paid over the lease term.. subjecting it to finance charges, of course..

All that stated... I do the same thing.. I always roll it over into my lease payment... I like my lease payment to reflect the actual cost of the vehicle.. and any bank or dealer fee is part of that.

You can do the same thing with just about any upfront fee or tax...

You can actually get the acquisition fee waived, for a .00035 bump in the money factor.. but, this usually isn't financially advisable.. it takes a special case for that to be a good thing.

regards,
kyfdx

discostew · January 2008

Interested in what I might be able to negotiate with BMWFS as options for keeping my car at lease end.

1) The car only has heated seats as an option and I have a fantastic lease rate $233/mo on a 2007 328xi Coupe (24 mo/10k yr) and ideally, I would like to just extend the lease for a year or even two. Has anybody ever been able to get such an offer approved? Will the base car be harder for them to sell, thus my advantage?

2) If I do buy the car at lease end, has anybody negotiated getting the CPO "thrown" in?

3) As a last resort if I have to give the car back, I may just buy the car and sell it to make a few bucks to roll into the next lease. I think I remember that the residual is around $27,xXX and I will only have about 14k - 15k miles at this rate. These coupes seem to really be keeping resale value (this may hurt my position for the first two ideas?).

I LOVE this car!

Thanks!

kyfdx · January 2008

1) BMWFS will extend your lease if you have another BMW on order, but otherwise will not.. At $233/mo., you can understand why.. They would rather sell it cheap to one of their dealers, than sell it cheap to you..

2) You may find a dealer that will take your car on lease return, and CPO it, and sell it back to you for less than you can purchase it from BMWFS with the CPO amount added.. But, I don't think you'll get anywhere close to getting it with CPO, for the same amount as the residual.

3) A base car will be harder to sell.. If you have to pay the sales tax, then try to sell it to someone else for a profit, you'll be hard pressed to come out ahead.. You'll have to sell it for around $30K to make any money.. That is a $600 car payment for a used car.. When the dealer is leasing brand new loaded models for $550/mo, yours will be a tough sell..

just my $0.02
kyfdx

discostew · January 2008

Thanks for your .02! I was afraid of the lease extension idea being a dead end.

As for the sales tax on option 3, if I pay off the car (buy it from BMWFS) and time it so that I never have to re-register the car in my own name, won't the person who buys the car be responsible for paying the sales tax when they register it? BMWFS will send the title to me directly if I pay cash without a loan, correct?

As for somebody thinking that is a good deal, who knows? Might be worth placing a few ads two weeks from my lease end and see if I have any takers, right?

kyfdx · January 2008

BMWFS usually adds the sales tax to the payoff, and remits it to the state directly.. I guess you know why..

Trying won't hurt anything... Likelihood of success is low, I think..

Definitely do not commit to buying the car, until you know you have it sold.

Good luck!

wazab · January 2008

Please advise!

Metallic
cold weather
premium
sport
STEPTRONIC automatic
navi
ipod
36 months
10k miles

MSRP$47,070

$0 down
$659/month
$4,500 taxes, sec dep etc

Is this a really bad deal ? (I have excellent credit rating 800+)
What would be a better negotiation?

If necessary, I'm willing to put a downpayment of $10K (with tax sec dep include).

Please advise thanks!

lpan · January 2008

Wazab - bad deal... here's why:

At a rate of $659 / mon (I'm assumming taxes and bank fee upfront), that's $23,724 total, including finance fee.

Important question: What is your 'Money Factor'? Are you using multiple security deposits? If so (the wise choice), then it should be 0.00151 for 10K/36 mons.

In that case, the finance charge would be 3.6% x ($47,000 + $28,680) = $2,724.

So you take $23,724 - $2,724 = $21,000, which should be 61% of the price of the car you are leasing.

Obviously, the finance charge is a little lower, but by not that much since you would be paying down the principle.

In any event, that 21K comes no where close to 61%. You are either paying a higher interest rate (because you opted out of the multiple deposits) and / or the dealer is NOT giving you a good capitalization cost and / or there has been a "mistake" with the residual value.

I'll give you an example of my recent lease purchase (Which is why i know some stuff about leasing).

328xi coupe: MSRP $39,000 - monthly payments came out to $500 / mon (Taxes IN payments). with NO down. (And yes, 10k/36 mons. MF Value 0.00151, residaul 61%.

dsasi · January 2008

Hi Ipan,

I am trying to get a 335 XI with the following.

Premium Package
Sports Package
Auto Transmission
Heated seats

MSRP is around $46900

With $2500 down and $500 security the best deal I am getting is $545 per month (including taxes) 10 K miles per year . Is this a good deal?

Thanks.

wazab · January 2008

Ipan,

Really appreciate your advice. I'm not sure why the agent was not willing to budge. Do you mind telling me which dealer you went to for your deal? Is it 2008 coupe? I'm assuming this is in NJ and not NYC?

Thanks!

voldermort · January 2008

328xi - Help - tell me what you think!

2007 328xi graphite ext/black leather int. premium package and cold weather package--sticker 41,000.
Oh geezzz.
I just got a quote from a dealer who knows a dealer and offered this to me. Is this a good deal? Please let me know as he wants to know "yesterday" it seems like if I should accept the "deal". Thanks much!

" Car is loaner car, has 10,900 miles on it. 3year lease for 369 a month. total 2600 up front. Your trade in will be worth about 5000. so you will not pay anything up front and get a 2500 dollar check.

(for brand new car-not loaner, would be around 500 a month)

My father in law got a cancellation on it, and he will likely sell it in a day or 2, so let me know soon if you want this one or if you want to keep looking."

The trade in is a Honda 2001 Civic auto if that makes a difference.
I will check this periodically to see whats the story and what you professionals think.
Oh, should I ask him any further questions? :confuse:

rhody_88 · January 2008

I believe the residual percentage on the coupe is three percent lower, or 58%.

jpfive · January 2008

Sounds like a good deal on the lease. Have no idea on trade in, look it up on kbb

jpfive · January 2008

This is somewhat off-topic. Does anyone have an Excel spreadsheet lease calculator? Didn't see one in a search of the forums.

voldermort · January 2008

Thanks.
Really??? :confuse: This sounds like a 'good' deal? Why? I don't get it.

Hey everyone out there., what do you think? Boomer,KYFDX, CarMan etc, the host to this site?I NEED TO HEAR FROM YOU THE HOST. P L E A S E

Also, does anyone know if this rate drop will affect new car leasing? does the MF change? Is it better to wait?

boomer23 · January 2008

Allright, I'll give it a try, though I'm not the host, I'm just another stiff like you.

You haven't really given enough information. Is the $369 including tax or not?
What is the agreed selling price of the car? This is needed in order to determine the capitalized cost of the car.

Check the KBB.com value of the car. They should discount the car considerably due to its mileage and being a 2007 car.

Here are some reasons it may not be a good deal:
You're putting $2500 down (also called "customer cap reduction"). It doesn't matter that this money comes from your trade-in, it's your money. That's your cash that you'll never see again. If you total the car or it's stolen, you lost the $2500. When the lease is over, you still won't see it again. Never put any money down on a lease. Instead, make refundable security deposits. These reduce your payment and you get them back at lease end.

Additional "drive off" fees that you'll have to pay are at least the first month's payment, registration tag fees, certain documentation fees, possibly "MACO" and training fees. These fees usually total about $1,000. Then, you'll pay a security deposit of about $400 in your case as a first time BMW customer, or pay a higher money factor. So that's around $1400 that you're going to pay up front, even without paying any down payment. Then there's a bank fee of at least $625 that you'll either pay on top of all this, or roll it into the lease. Does the $369 include the bank fee rolled into the lease or do you pay it up front?

Also, this is a car that's been a "loaner". Have you ever driven a loaner BMW that you treated gently? Or did you say "A BMW, huh? Let's see what this baby will do..." And your buddies... on the mean streets of NYC? Do you really want to lease that car?

You need to enter any lease situation knowing the agreed, discounted selling price of the car, the money factor, the residual cost of the car at the end of the lease, the cost of the bank fees and other fees, which are mostly dealer profit, and the opportunity to reduce the payment with security deposits. All of which says that the hurry-up you are getting on this car doesn't give you time to get all of this straight and make a good decision.

All of the above being said, it might be a good deal if the car is in fantastic condition, if you are aware that the car may have been abused and are ready to deal with that emotionally (after all, there is full warranty coverage), if you can get rid of the down payment (meaning get the whole $5K from your trade-in back in your hand in cash), and get clear and accurate information on all of the fees you'll pay up front, what they're for and whether they're negotiable.

I put the following into a lease calculator:
MSRP $41,000, cap cost $36,000, 58% residual, $2500 cash down, money factor .0015. 36 month lease, $625 bank fee rolled into lease. I get about the monthly payment you were quoted.

There's nothing especially great about this deal. A $5,000 discount from new sticker on a used car with 11,000 miles is certainly reasonable. The money factor is about right, and we already discussed not putting money down on a lease.

If this is the car you want, go for it. It's certainly a lower payment than you'll pay for a brand new car. Get rid of the down payment, make several refundable security deposits (about $400 each) to lower your payment, and be sure that you know all of the fees you're paying, and negotiate hard to get rid of Maco and training fees.

Whew, I'm exhausted.

kyfdx · January 2008

Good job, boomer23!!

wazab · January 2008

I re-negotiated and got this (is this a better deal?)

Fully loaded car
$600/mo with taxes and fees paid upfront in amt of $3,900 (includes sec dep)
residual $28K
MF I was told used is 0.0020 = 4.8% apr

Please advise if i should sign this today?
Thanks!

eights38 · January 2008

wazab - $600 per month on a 2008 BMW 328xi coupe with an MSRP of $47,070 is a very strong deal. The lease price that you are being offered assumes a $2,000 discount from the dealer which is quite strong in NYC. What dealer are you working with? If you have any more questions, please feel free to reply or email me.

qbrozen · January 2008

other than what boomer told you, I strongly suggest selling your Honda on your own. Used Civics bring silly money and I'm sure you could get at least a couple grand more than a dealer's offer within a matter of days.

voldermort · January 2008

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
You really made me "think" about this deal. You gave such a detailed explanation and I will re-evaluate this with dealer on this. I greatly appreciate all you wrote, and sorry I exhausted you but you know you gave us such great information that will help not only myself, but others who need to know.

I will let you and everyone else who responded to this (KDYFX,qbrozen etc...)- know how "'this deal"' ended up. It's not easy getting the real deal, and without this forum we would all be screwed. Thanks again!

boomer23 · January 2008

Actually, my pleasure, even though you are the Dark Lord. I'm certainly not an authority, just have learned a few things.

I really do think that the dealers have so much advantage over us as customers when it comes to the confusing world of leasing that we need to help each other to become educated. It's our only defense. I've bought and leased two cars this year and Edmunds and other forums have been the only reason that I feel that I did okay on my negotiations.

x021627 · January 2008

agree about trying to sell Civic on your own. I had friend who put an ad in the paper for one with 100K miles on it. Wanted $5K. Well they had people calling at 6am the day the ad ran and got offers over the 5K they wanted all day. ended up sellin for about $6000-6500 I don't remember. People love used Hondas. they run forever.

wazab · January 2008

Thanks Your opinion is very helpful!

tryer32 · January 2008

I've found a few dealerships that still have a few 07 335 sedans on the lot. Does anyone have any opinions as to what type of discount I could expect compared to a similarly equipped 08?

an99 · January 2008

Hi. I'm in the Boston area and planning on purchasing a 2008 BMW 328 xi coupe. With the options I have chosen, MSRP is $43875 (Metallic, cold weather package, premium package, iPod, automatic) and invoice is $40,415.

How much over invoice are you typically paying in Boston? Any dealer recommendations?

Thanks!

manybmws · January 2008

E-mail me and I can send you some names...

Just ordered a 335xi Coupe.

jmzoot · January 2008

I was hoping someone can email or PM me the names of some local dealers(within 4-5 hour drive) that have offered the best deals. I am looking to order a 335 vert with European delivery.

The best price I have gotten so far is $1250 over ED invoice, but the dealer is not local. I am just trying to avoid making a trip to IL after a trip to Europe.

Thanks

eights38 · January 2008

jmzoot - I have helped several friends with their European Deliveries. Please email me or reply to discuss further.

skobola · January 2008

You may (try to) arrange with the dealer which gave you $1250 over ED invoice to ship the car to your selected dealership. Note that some dealers may charge you for such a shipping, because the dealers usually prep the car, so it may come first to them. However, a number of dealers have agreements to exchange cars. To cut the long story short, it will not hurt you to at least try to ask them to do it. Also, remember that you have already paid the destination charge of $775, and as such, it should cover delivery to any BMW dealer in the US.

ksu19 · January 2008

New here and your email shows private, so I can't figure out how to email you.

I'm also in the market for a 3 series.

smurphymn · January 2008

Looking at a new 3 series convertible. January must be a scary month for car dealers given the action in the stock market and worries about the economy. Has that started to impact the willingness of dealers to negotiate yet? Anyone with recent experience?

Thanks

manybmws · January 2008

all set now.

ksu19 · January 2008

I must be missing something. Still says private. Mine should be public; please feel free to email me.

2013 and earlier BMW 3-Series Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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