-September 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Comments
Anyway, thanks for the info--now I'll know why I'm shivering in August.
Agree about the A/C seeming to suck a lot of power - how would I go about getting the underdrive pulley / how expensive ??
Had a run-in with a blown tire from a semi which ripped out the driver's side 'slide out' portion of the air dam and also cracked it in a couple of places - any suggestions other than full replacement of the dam?
Again, thanks for the information and comments everyone.
Any suggestions are appreciated:
I have an Automatic 2002 Aerio SX w/ 41k on it, and I have had an ongoing issue w/ my 'service engine soon' light. Occasionally the light will come on and my car will not shift properly. It will start off in what feels like 3rd or 4th gear, and I will have to manually shift from 1st to Drive to get any power. Eventually the car will begin to shift on it's own.
I have had 2 input speed sensors replaced and a TCM but it still does this.
Also my 'service engine soon' light doesn't always stay on, and due to the design of the Aerio, I was told no codes are stored in the computer once the light goes off. (I am a computer programmer and this makes absolutely no sense to me, but that is besides the point. It must be a way to keep them from having to fix cars.) So needless to say, many times I've taken my car into the dealer and they find nothing, and tell me to come back when the light is on. This usually happens for me after work and they are closed, and once I park my car for the night it cools and the light goes out.
I notice the problem mostly in early evening after a cool morning and the car has sat in the sun all day while I'm at work. It has happened after the car was warmed up as well, while I'm driving it. I noticed on later models there is talk of an engine cool light and shifting issues, but my '02 doesn't have that light, only the temperature guage lights etc...
My dealer has been unable to solve for 2 years now. Any suggestions?
Also had brake noise at slow stops --> told the dealer and they said there was a bulletin for it and they put clamps on the calipers (no charge). So far, no more problems.
The major problems we have had are with the transmission. It was 6 months old when out of no where it starting slamming/grinding when put in 2nd gear. Brought it in to service--they were going to replace the transmission, california sent the wrong transmission 3 times! Service dept. decided to replace 2nd & 3rd gears and parts associated with it instead. Did that, and car was shifting very poorly. 3rd was stiff, overall felt like car was 10 years old.
Brought car back in, replaced transmission assembly. On way home from picking car up---5th gear on highway made a "waw-waw-waw" noise. Only happens on highway, only 5th gear. Service manager drove the car, called the sound "droning" and said he would have the suzuki representative drive it to see if it was normal for suzukis to do that. I told him we did not hear it or have any problems for 1st 6 months of driving car. He said the rep. would be here in 1-2 weeks and he left a voicemail with him. He also said he would call us when he knew what day we could bring the car in for the rep. to drive it. That was March 30th, 2004. We still have not heard from anyone!!!! It's now the end of June!! It's been 3 months!!!
I am documenting all of the problems we've had with the car and the poor service and mailing it to corporate. Before now, we have called the Suzuki Customer Relations Phone number in the warranty manual and complained a few times about the first issues and the service dept.--they don't seem to care. when we have the 1st problewms w/ 2nd gear slamming--the service manager told us to keep driving the car skipping from 1st gear to 3rd while we waited 3 weeks for the trans. assem. to arrive (he said we were replacing it anyway!)
The first mechanic didn't admit it was a problem, and basically insulted my blondeness, but another mechanic at the same dealership, when I brought the car in for an oil change, fixed the problem without me having to ask.......said the "swaybar" was loose and he tightened it. Since then I haven't heard or felt the clunk.!!
Dealership has basically told me "they have spent enough time on the car", and they can't find the problem.
The rattling seems to happen when you hit the accelerator, and it is a quick annoying loud noise (sounds like something loose). I do use high octane gas, as I was told this could be the infamous "ping", but the car still rattles.
The noise reminds me of my old toyota tecel, when the valves went-- the embarassing noise being one reason I got rid of it----- now my brand new car sounds like this! Yikes!!
Other then handing the keys over to the dealership and saying "keep it till you fix it", does anyone else have this problem or could lend some insight into some possible solutions?
Thanks
My car (automatic, 4WD) all of a sudden one evening in late May 2004 started being extremely sluggish. It felt like I was driving with the brakes on. I checked the emergency brake, but it wasn't on. The car made horrid groaning noises and didn't want to accelerate. When I removed my foot from the gas, the car came to a rather quick stop, without me pressing on the brake pedal. Putting the car in reverse, it did the same thing. Acceleration was almost impossible. There was a nasty burning smell as well. Also the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't go down very far. The car at this point had almost 15,000 miles on it.
I ended up having it towed the next day when the problem recurred as it just wasn't drivable. It (of course) didn't perform this problem for the mechanic the next day, but after I described the problem, they ended up bleeding off some of hydraulic pressure. The exact description on my receipt is as follows:
A cust states the brakes are sticking.
Cause: Brake pedal rod is mis-adjusted causing hard brake pedal and restricting vehicle movement. Adjust brake pedal rod and retest (OK)
I didn't have any more problems until last night (August 8th). Did the exact same thing. I was fairly close to home, so limped there with my hazard lights on, cringing all the way. I got home, pulled in the garage and got out of the car only to notice smoke coming from the right front wheel. Got back in the car and moved it from the garage to the driveway. The wheel (not tire) was still smoking. Horrible smell as well. As far as I can tell, the brakes are sticking again. The brake pedal was also hard again.
Drove it to the dealer this a.m. with no problems. Got an appointment for Thursday. Not sure how I'm going to make the car misbehave for the mechanic. It currently has about 17,000 miles.
Has anyone had similar problems? This seems to be way more than the brake clunking problem that was much discussed. I've already had the rear differential replaced at about 10,000 miles. I'm not very happy with this car right now!
Thanks!
Diana
Thanks,
Diana
THEN... I saw the exact model,color,etc. I thought I'd look to see if his was missing, sure enough, it was gone. The guy saw me at my car and looked at mine for the very same reason. He also pointed out that his windshield was cracked, not by any chips. I got his number and we plan to go to the dealership together.
The transmission sometimes will not shift into 4th gear (overdrive). The first time I had a problem, I was driving 55mph, and the car shifted down into 3rd. It was about 8 minutes before it went back into overdrive. This was on a level surface.
The latest event was this weekend, when it would not go into 4th, for about 45 minutes. In all instances, the overdrive was never turned off.
The Suzuki dealership cannot find a problem, and went so far as to suggest that the car must have been cold. Please! After 45 minutes? I am not in the Antarctic. They also made the suggestion that the rpm's would be high driving 60 mph. Granted, it will be a little high with only 4 gears, but not 5000+ rpm.
Has anyone else experienced this sort of problem or have any suggestions?
Have 2003 Aerio. Had brakes redone 10/03 and again this month.
As far as the ac goes. Am waiting right now for a new compressor. Has been noisy for a while.
Where did your get your under drive pulley from ?
Has anyone noticed abnormal brake pad wear? My friends’ front pads on her Suzuki are @ 35% with 20,000 kms (12,000 miles) on the car. She has a 5 speed and doesn’t drive hard say 80% city (basic traffic here, nothing like grid-lock). Why I ask is that my Accord has 50% left on it with almost twice the mileage on the clock (mind you I’m 50-60% city). We drive similarly and they are both 5 speeds. If this is unusual wear, can she claim warranty? Thanks for any help.
2. The inner CV joint fell out of the manual transmission!!!!! I talked with a number of transmissions experts. All said "thats impossible ..there isn't enough play in the drive shaft to let it slip out..its got to be a design error". I payed for this one ($1,400.00) even though Suzuki USA has a technical bulletin warning about "Drive shaft pops out", Bulletin # 06284
3. The brakes clack and grind even after the "new and improved" brake shims were installed. How many brake pad revisions will be required before they get it right???? (lots of tech bulletins on this one)
4 The remote entry system died. Key fobs and control unit were replaced. (another technical bulletin from Suzuki Canada)
5 Had the fuel temp sensor in the gas tank replaced.
6. The seatbelt retractor needs help getting the belt back in.
7. Both front wheel bearings were replaced under a technical bulletin by Suzuki Canada .......the passenger front bearing failed again less than a year afterwards.
Thanks to the reliability of my 2003 Suzuki Aerio, I get to drive a lot of new cars...... mostly rentals .
When it comes to issues that are clearly caused by defective parts or poor design, Suzuki Canada's attitude is ..... thank you for buying our nightmare ... will that be cash or credit card?
I have this problem currently and am attempting to record the sound while driving using my mini-disc recorder. I would describe the sound as a flutter/clattering sound that happens when I slowly accelerate in third gear. Yes, it reminds me of valve sounds also, but I'm not a mechanic.
My engine has already been replaced under warranty when my oil pump failed (before the first oil change) ...it was in the shop for 28 days. My attorney says that when it hits 30 days within the first 18k, it could qualify as a "lemon"
Same thing with me too regarding the dealership. I think they see the 28 days and get a flag or something that tells them not to hold the car in the shop. I will keep you posted, did you ever have your problem solved?
Jason
Any information would be GREAT!!!!
This can sometimes be cured by having the cooling system flushed at a garage. if not, then the core needs to be replaced and this should be done by a mechanic also. Any reputable mechanic can do this work for you - although you may want to stick to a Suzuki garage to get OEM parts.
Larry