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What your technician told you about running a few miles on the highway produces the same remedy as the "nose blowing" of the EGR valve. This trick was found by Renault 'Road Angels' many years ago. They could get the cars going again without opening the engine compartment;
I still do it for my catalyser once a week, preferably at night.
I have close to 85,000 miles with no issue apart from the battery. I observed that when the battery was getting problematic, the free spinning pulley of the alternator was constantly dirty. This can explain that Since then I have a new truck again.
The BFG T/A tires have 56,000 miles and still 1/4" of rubber on them. They are getting slippery on wet pavement now but have been a wonderful deal since day one!
I use your "nose blowing" trick on my CRD several times per week. I get some smoke initially but then it clears up after repeating it a second time. On a recent long trip, I performed the nose blowing a few times. No smoke/soot after the second treatment. I have been using Amsoil cetane improver and Amsoil detergent additives pretty regularly and they seem to help. I wish U.S. diesel fuel had better quality and had higher cetane.
I will be replacing the hose from the CAC to the engine in the next week or so as part of it has oil soak through. I am looking to get a custom built silicone hose, with a drain to replace the existing one. Changing it is tiresome.
Anyone else have some ideas/thoughts on this? :confuse:
They get killed when they are under the hood.
Had it happen last Xmas
All you have to do is unplug the maf sensor or install a Serg and install a Provent to stop the oil from the turbo to the FCV, and about the fuel? do not ever use Shell fuel, go to any other station that you see truckers stopping and use that fuel. If you like to see your engine to smooth out you can use TCW-3 oil at 2 ounces per gallon of fuel and that will make a lot of change in your engine. I buy my at wally world (Super Tech).
Nescosmo...........
As to the oil vapor problem, I am running Amsoil 15W-40 full synthetic. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 except the vaporization rate is lower. I also clean the boost sensor every 5,000 miles as well as the hose from the CAC to the engine. There is barely any oill film in it when I clean the hose. As to fuel, I prefer to go to busy truck stops when travelling long distances. I generally use Pilot or Love's stops. They are always busy. I also add cetane improver and detergent or try to find a station that sells B5 or B20. The closer I get the cetane to 51 to 54, the smoother and quieter the engine runs, plus FE goes up. I blow the engine's nose twice weekly and that helps alot too.
Nescosmo.
This may be helpful: Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Bill Z in NY
I had the same problem and I left it squeak for a long time until a friend begged me to stop it :sick:
It was only the serpentine belt that was not routed properly: it went around (outside) the alternator & idler & A/C pulleys instead of wrapping around the inner side of the idler pulley. Look at the routing picture above the radiator and you will rapidly understand.
Fix: Take a 15mm ratchet (that has a long lever) and tension the spring of the tensioning pulley located between the crankshaft and power steering pulleys. You will get dirty rubbing agains the fan shroud This takes less than one minute
I may have inverted the A/C and power steering pulleys, I don't remember which is which.
nescosmo.....
If you go back to the dealer tell them to replaced the pulley not the alternator, you need that any way if your have high mileage, then see what happen.
Note: If you buy the tensioner. pulleys they are all the same, one of them is different but the pulley is the same. that one cost more that the others so do not do it, buy the regular one.
Good luck.
nescosmo.....
The smoke I get when I blow the nose lasts for a second or two and after a second consecutive application is gone. I attribute a good part of the smoke problem to the poor quality diesel swill sold in this country and secondly to stop and go driving that many of us do. The addition of detergents and cetane improver help significantly. The use of biodiesel helps even more.
As suggested, find a nice lonely, long, straight piece of highway. Make sure you have driven your CRD at least ten miles so that the engine is thoroughly warmed up.
While at a complete stop, lockout the overdrive (button on side of shift lever. There will be light on the dashboard). Then nail the gas to the floor and hold it there until you get to to 3200 RPM (speed > 60 MPH) and hold there for a few seconds. Come to a complete stop and repeat the process several times until you do not get large clouds of soot. By the time all or most of the carbon has been removed, you should get little or no visible smoke.
You will need to use detergents and cetane improvers regularly along with flogging the engine several times per week. Also, check your air filter.
thanks
dusty
Today I drove the Jeep and after a bit started to smell burned oil. I got the car home and there was oil leaking from the back of the engine and not the CCVC. I again cleaned everything. I ran ran the engine and opened the oil filler, I put my hand over it and noticed positive pressure. I was expecting a vacuum. Also, I pulled the hose off of the CCVC and it was spitting out small droplets of oil.
My first suspicion is that the CCVC has failed. I will try to remove it tomorrow and see if it is cleanable. As for the oil, I am wondering if the rear main seal has failed or if this stuff I did not get with the first cleaning.
I also found "oily" stains on the ground that I interpretated as an oil leak.
Liquid was dripping from the two bolts located under the engine, near the transmission.
All levels were OK (coolant, transmission, power steering, engine oil).
I put a white piece of wood under the truck to identify the color of the "oil" and left it overnight.
It turned out to be diesel fuel that had washed the block on its way down.
Was not diesel fuel. The right rear of the engine was where the oil was with almost nothing on the left side. Did not smell like diesel fuel but like engine oil. It is black like the engine oil.
On top of that, I have a new issue. The trans slips when it engages in top gear. You get the sensation of going over rumble strips for about one-half second.
The CRD is off to the doctor tomorrow. I am going to check the color of the trans fluid and see if any codes have been thrown.
The best way to destroy the torque converter is to drive long distances at 60 mph in 5th gear. This is what the local JEEP technician told me a long time ago when I asked to have the 163HP chip instead of the one I have...
Local driving speeds are well above and below the shift point. In this case (only) manual shifting is better.
In late 2006, Chrysler detuned the engine to save the torque converter in what is known as the "F37" recall. The recall took away about six percent of the torque in the hope it would save the torque converter from being eaten alive by the engine torque..
For long distances, I generally drive between 62 MPH and 65 MPH and the engine does not feel like it is lugging. The quality of the shift now seems to have changed and is working it's way down to lower gears. I am getting firmer shifts lower down but the shift at 48 MPH and the shift at 57 MPH both have that "rumble strip" sensation but the 57 MPH shift has become a two part shift with a split second delay before full engagement.
When you empty the engine oil put only six quarts do that because allways oil stay in the engine and if you put the right amount , you will be over fill.
If you take the ccvc watch the O rings, they are very bad to install, be aware the if you do not put the O rings well, it wil leak oil. If you think that the CCVC is bad buy a new one, they are not that expensive. and allways use a ProVent. also check your Turbo.
I have always put in six full quarts and twelve ounces from another and have never seen the engine overfilled. The level on the dipstick is always between the "MIN" and "MAX'.
As to the CCVC, I believe it did fail. I have been driving for the past day or so with the oil filler cap loose and no oil has appeared around the CCVC. As to adding a Provent device, maybe later on. First I need to have the trans evaluated to see what is going on in there.
One question; is the CCVC available as an aftermarket part or is it still a dealer only part?
Nescosmo....
1. The oil leak was caused by a blown rear main seal. How the oil got on the top of the engine I will never know. It leaked around the CCVC.
2. Torque converter is toast and probably the front pump too. Had the F37 done in December of 2006. They replaced the TC at that time.
I am going to speak with the tech tomorrow PM. and see what else he has to say. I would like to retain that nice firm shift if possible.
Could you try to explain what "toast" means? Is it excessive wear of the clutch plates or destruction of the central element within the TC?
You had given the name of a company proposing a reinforced component that could handle the extra torque. Even if you change this component, the lockup clutch plates remain the same
I have to admit, 5 years ago my local Jeep tech understood well the latent problem of automatic shifting under high torque.
Nescosmo....
The torque converter unit and the set of clutches are two distinct parts of the transmission.
The first can typically become out of balance after overheating and the second should trigger a high oil temperature warning signal before the gearbox gets damaged.
Are you going with stock parts or aftermarket?
As to parts, I am doing this under warranty (stock parts). Before the year is over, the trans gets the transgo kit. If the TC fails again, then I will put a Suncoast or other high performance part in.
I have been using the K&N in my CRD for more than 24K miles. There is no oily film anywhere in the intake tube to the turbo and in fact it is spotless. I spoke to the tech sometime ago about the K&N and he said no problem.
As to the oil, it gets changed every 5000 miles. I use Amsoil full synthetic 15W-40. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel motor oil except Noack is much lower.
I will look on EBay for the CVCC.
Cost $0.00
Thank goodness for extended warranties.
Do you have skid plates?
No skidpads. I do not go off road, mostly highway, some stop and go.
To update, got the CRD back today. The tech told me that the dealer that had done the F37, left out several bolts that hold the engine and trans together. Also, a bolt that holds an exhaust hanger to the CRD was also missing. Turns out that the dealer that did the F37 also replaced the front pump. Rear main seal was also leaking and that got replaced.
Will be adding an auxiliary trans cooler in the near future.
The tech did a great job. My CRD runs like a banshee and pulls up hills with a great deal more alacrity. The Florida shop who did the initial F37 must have messed something up. The CRD did not run this well after the FL dealer worked on it.
I am going to watch my FE to see if it changes.
Nescosmo.