I called the sevice manual folks at Daimler Chrysler asking about the sevice manual for the CRD. They wanted over three hundred dollars. Does this sound right to you guys? Anybody found another source?
The filter itself does not look that bad and there is minimal resistance to suction, but a fair amount of resistance to airflow going against the intended flow direction. The bit of fuzzy mold, it sort of looks like mold, also bothers me so out it goes. I would do the reverse flow rinse with ethanol if I had no choice or was unable to obtain a new filter. For the few dollars it will cost me, I would simply rather replace it. Access to the filter is very easy.
Thanks for the diagrams from Renault, but my French is in a rather poor state of dis-repair. The vacuum solenoid pictured here looks different from what is on my CRD. If you can get these or any other diagrams in German, that would be fine as I am a native German speaker/reader/so-so writer.
The other thing I might try would be to adapt an old style fuel filter such as from an older Nissan or Toyota that has a plastic housing. I would plug up one end and then put numerous small holes all over the diameter of the case so air could flow through it.
EGR care is a problem. The fuel in the U.S. is pretty much responsible for many of the failures/issues. This has been stated in several posts and also from one of the service writers at my dealer who runs MB diesels.
The use of additives is controversial at best and everyone has their own opinion and their own favorites. I use a cetane improver and detergent from Amsoil or Redline. I feel the cetane improver helps the most. The higher the cetane, the quicker and cleaner the burn. The detergent keeps the injector nozzles squeaky clean but I do not think that it has any direct impact on the EGR valve.
As to "purging" the EGR valve, I use Caribou1's method at least weekly. I still have the factory EGR valve that came with my CRD and so far so good. After a good blast or two, the engine seems to run better (smoother, quieter). Could be my imagination too, what is left of it.
I had some time today and perused the Edmunds VW TDI Forum. I have to say, it makes me feel better about the CRD. That forum includes a lot of complaints about egr failure (they call it egr coolant), lack of achieving posted mileage, vw dealer lack of expertise, is the tdi worth the cost difference, etc. In short, many (most?) of the complaints one finds here are also seen on that site. In fact, one contributor noted (in response to a question "i'm scared to buy a tdi based on what i see here") said, don't worry people don't post unless they have problems.
You are curious and can read a bit of german... Make a web search with "agr ventil reparatur". This will make you feel much better. If you get to the page #TDI PROBLEME# and read about polymerisation of the engine sump oil after using biodiesel (with clear pictures if you please), you may not have a good night's sleep. I think it's safer to stick to what we know is good and don't reinvent the wheel unless we have a spare one with us
Actually, I can read and speak German as well as I can read and speak English. I was born here but my parents were from Germany.
Nasty looking pictures. They speak of unburned biodiesel getting into the sump and really gumming up the works. Will I stop using B5 or B10? Probably not since I do not use it that often. Also, I change oil and oil filter pretty frequently, every 4K miles.
I purchased my Liberty CRD in Feb. 05, follow the maintenance schedule, and have been running B20 in it for the past few months. I absolutely love my CRD and have experienced no problems. As such, I have a few questions: 1. Did I just get lucky with my Jeep, or will the problems described throughout this forum eventually catch-up to me? 2. What exactly is an EGR valve, how will I know when it goes out? 3. Is anyone using 'by-pass filtering' for the oil? I read where some folks had been using this on Ford Powerstroke Diesels and was wondering if there was any applicability to the CRD.
I also use B20, and have used it for about 70% of my fill ups. I also use Stanadyne as an additive. I have 11,500 miles on my CRD and have had no problems.
You will find that most of the time people post with complaints/problems and this probably corresponds to about 1% of the CRD owners.
It is a great vehicle and you should experience very few or none of the problems posted here.
The EGR is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and mine has been fine so far. I hear any problems are due to the poor quality/low cetane fuel in the US.
I ordered a CD copy of the manual from manuals-mopar. You can find them on ebay. The price is reasonable compared to dealer suggested. I hope to have it within the week. I believe the supplier is in BC (Canada). Prices are listed in USD. I'll try to go through it and provide some kind of book report.
The computer in you CRD monitors the functioning of the EGR valve and will turn on an engine warning light if a problem is detected. I have a Mar. 05 build date and I have not had a problem with the EGR valve, yet. It is a part that is doomed to fail, sometime.
My limited knowledge of bypass filtering is that it is mostly used on commercial diesel engines where the oil is changed at intervals of 25k miles or longer and the engines hold 15 quarts or more of oil. According to my parts guy, the oil filter on the CRD is the same one used on the Ford PowerStroke Diesel, so (if true) it ought to be good enough for the smaller CRD engine. The bypass filtering systems that I saw were pretty big and room is limited under the CRD hood. You might be just a well off to just buy good quality oil filters.
I agree with you about the bypass oil filter system. First there is no room under the hood and second, it is a waste of money unless you are driving an 80K pound semi down the road.
The oil changes are frequent enough so that the oil is not totally wiped out and still has good lubricating and adequate detergency.
I looked on the Fram website and have an oil filter part number for the CRD as PH8316 and the Power Stroke being CH9549. How can they be the same filters? I would like to use a Power Stroke filter due to the added size I can get an extra qt. of oil out of the deal. If anyone knows of a BIGGER oil filter please advise. Thanks
When there's a turbo on the engine, you have to be carefull about the time the engine takes to bring the oil system up to pressure so the turbo don't spin too much with out the oil pressure it needs. A bigger filter WILL hold more dirt, give more sump capacity, but it acts as a fluid capacitor (acccumulator) and may keep the oil passages to the turbo from coming up to pressure as quick as is needed. This problem surfaced on 1978 Buick Regal Sports Coupes (w/Turbo 3.8 gas engine) that my brother had. Wiped Turbo Bearings. Just a consideration.
i sell by pass filters dont have one on my libby but they work great if you plan on keeping it long enough remember the cars of the thirtys and fortys they didn't have oil filters at all oil companys said you didnt need them just change oil every three hundred miles
Hey Lightnin3, I'm asking just like you. I was replying to a post a few message up where someone commented that CRDs use the same filter as the Power Stroke but by looking at the Fram website they are different numbers.
Whitgallman, I will stick with your advice and go with the recommended oil filter. I have a question that I know you can answer. Is Mobil Delvac a Synthetic? I am also taking your advice by making the first oil change an early one and using the good stuff. My 06 owners manual says to use 0w40 synthetic or 5w40 if 0w is not available. I thought I recall you posting that you recommend the 5w over the 0w. I want to use FULL Synthetic Mobil One but Walmart sells Mobil Delvac which I read and only listed the manufacture's that approve it. The Delvac is also 15W40 which I'm thinking is a little to thick? The only diesel oil listed as "Full Synthetic" was Rotella T, but I'm not to fond of Shell products. Please advise. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Jim for the correction. When I bought my first flter for my CRD, my parts guy looked it up and said,"Oh, it's the same as the Ford Power Stroke" and promptly returned with a WIX 51516. It never occurred to me that he didn’t know what he was talking about.
I went to the WIX look-up site and could not find a match with FPS. There were two different WIX filters for the FPS that I found with different numbers. Please accept my apology for posting bad info on this site.
Mobil uses the "Delvac" handle on a number of products. "Delvac 1" is a 5W-40 with MB 228.5 spec approval. (Same as Mobil 1 Truck & SUV) It's about 60% Poly-alpha-olafin synthetic with about 30% Alkylated Aromatics and the rest additives like VI improvers. Their literature says "recommended for use in all super high performance diesel applications, including modern low emmisions engines with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)." I'd prefer it to the Mobil 1 0W-40 in our CRDs until the ULSD comes out because it has a little higher sulfated ash (I read as higher TBN). The Mobil 1 0W-40 is approved to MB 229.3. The AMSOIL 0W-40 reportedly meets a new MB spec that is even higher still.
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super is a good 15W-40 mineral based oil for your Peter Builts, Western Stars and Freightliners. (Cummins, Cats and Detroits). I like Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 for it's group II base stock. Shell is OK, they know oil.
I've just got my Jeep Liberty CRD last week and I love it! It is the first diesel I've owned, but nt the first I've driven. Anyway, I've been wondering which synthetic oil to use when I change the oil, Mobil Delvac 1 or Shell Rotella T Synthetic, both are in the 5w40. Around here, all I can see that is available is the Shell Rotella T synthetic.
Change your name to Dr. Oil. So from what you're saying I can use the Truck and SUV Oil as long as it's 0W-40? Is 5W better then 0W? I live in NJ and doubt I'm going to see an -0 temps. Thanks Doc!
Just returned from a 1,675 mile trip to central CA in a pretty loaded-down CRD. Averaged 26 MPG. Didn't spare the ponies much, either. Best segment, 356 miles, produced 30 MPG traveling 68 MPH in cruise control (Speed Limit mostly 55 , but highway patrol didn't seem to care). Worst, 22 (much of that at temps. below 20F).
I remounted the cheesy ST tires for the trip w/ 38 front & 36 rear psi. They continue to provide decent service and great economy.
Although the CRD delivers noticeably diminishing returns after 70 mph (compared to petrol powered), it kept up ably in 85 - 95 mph Bay Area traffic. Satisfying to have the reserve acceleration for confounding habitual lane hoppers in Beamers and Benzes: Who'd have you think even 85 mph isn't fast enough. :mad:
I am so envious of some of you guys.I would really like to say I am getting great service out of my crd but I have had nothing but trouble. I have 33000 miles on mine, and it just had its seventh egr valve installed.I just started lemon law process and chrysler looked at the car's record and agreed that I have a lemon. 55 days in the shop in 11 months. The egr has failed every 6 weeks on average. I also have had it in the shop 5 times for loud popping sounds in the front and rear of car. They hear it but can't fix it so I just gave up on it but for those of you who are getting good service out of your crd's as I said I am envious.
Are you using a cetane improver? I got good fuel economy like 32mpg when I put some in, but only 26 or so when I didn't. I'm thinking the timing is set up for higher cetane fuel (like 50) which we will get with the ULSD when it comes out. DC says in the manual that the engine is set up for ULSD. Maybe the California CARB diesel fuel you were getting is already high cetane. High cetane meaning the fuel burns more promptly upon injection which relates to timing, like piston being on it's way down the power stroke. Diesels are quieter with high cetane fuel. Diminishing returns above 70 mph is related to aerodynamic drag. I'll bet Libby's have the drag coefficient of shoe boxes. Does anybody have a number for Liberty drag?
You guys are making me blush. I'm a mechanical engineer, that took some organic chemistry in college, at a utility that has a cluster of nuclear plants and have responsibility for supporting diesel driven stuff like big standby generators (7MW) to little diesel driven compressors, mostly from the petroleum side, fuel & oil. I also have responsibility for the oils, greases and other lubes used around the plants. Gone to lots of training at SwRI etc. and done QA audits at Mobil Beaumont and one at Ricardo. (long ago our plants contracted lubes with Exxon) I've played with diesels at home too, '79 Chevy C-10 w/GM-Olds, Cadi w/ 4.3 Olds, '63 MB 190Dc, '90 Dodge Cummins. But I'm a student more that teacher still. Sometimes being known for having a focused interest brings you people that you learn from while helping them. It's fun for me. Thank you!
Shell makes good oil. On one of my Mobil audits I saw some Shell VI additives going in the Mobil 1 pot. We did some testing in 1997 of trucker oils and the Shell Rotella T 15W-40 mineral oil we used didn't keep it's viscosity in High Temp High Shear tests. Many years have gone by since then. These big companies help each other. The oil guys will buy additives and base stocks from each other. GM will lend a brake engineer to Ford or do research together like the new 6 speed automatic trannys coming out soon. It's all a commodity to them.
The more premium brands of filters will have more surface area and be more efficient. Look for a Purolator Pure 1 or one of those type a couple of different brands will tell you their dirt holding ability and single pass efficiency "beta ratio". The Amsoil guy probably has one.
I do use Stanadyne All-Season (Cetane improver) and also used Chevron 'Dieselmotive' with the presumably lower sulfer CA fuel. However, that was marketed only as "Diesel #2", so I have no idea if it was anything more than more expensive.
The mileage I got was most related to speed, constancy of speed, and temperature. My mileage figures are for all driving activities, including warm-up, stops, acceleration. Cruising at 58 mph on a warm day with an unloaded Libby, I'm likely near the middle-thirties mpg.
Cetane improver is highly recommended as I see, smell, feel, and hear the results of using it. Dieselmotive, a viscous lubricity additive, is also a very effective injector cleaner showing rapid results over the many treatments I've done. When traveling under high demand conditions, ensuring good fuel lubricity makes sense.
11K now. March `05 Build. No time in the shop at all. None. No leaks whatsoever. EGR- What EGR? Am I happy with it or what !!!
Engine builders are looking for that last whit of fuel economy by going to thinner oils like 0W-40's and Ford's 5W-20 oils. To some extent the pistons and bearings are designed for them. I like the slightly thicker choices to get a little thicker oil film in the journal bearings. Thicker film means the bearing can pass a slightly bigger chunk of debris before contacting the bearing babbitt surface. Less wear. Engine lasts longer. It will not damage your engine to run Mobil 1 15W-50, maybe the turbo bearing oil pressure is lower on a cold startup, but the synthetics leave a nice film on these surfaces after the last shut down. Thicker oil will thin some by being warmed from shearing energy losses put into the oil. If you're stuck for the right oil and can't find a 0W-40 synthetic, your always safer going for a slightly thicker oil choice.
we do have the new oil filter called nanofiber amsoil has the exclucive rights to the nanoviber from donaldson for light trucks an automobiles pretty pricey but look pretty good
In retrospect somewhat foolishly, I changed out to Castrol 5W-50 at 742 miles, and again at 3,200 miles. Was the warm-to-hot season, May - October. No adverse results, but I'm certainly not making any recommendation, yet.
Well it only took nearly 5 months from date of order, but my CRD is finally parked in my drive! It's going to take some getting used to, after having a Yukon! Although, mileage on the 150 mile trip home from the dealer was quite promising - 25+ mpg highway, even with the varying speeds. One thing I don't ever think I'll get used to is the lack of storage space. We commute 130 miles daily and need space for lots of items in our 'mini home' away from home. I'm looking for something with storage for directly behind the front seats with the rear seats down, but looks like we'll be making it ourselves. We're also wanting to mount an EGT gauge somewhere, but looks like this also will need to be custom.
Has anyone any pre-made solutions for either of these? I didn't find anything in the search, except wish lists!
BTW - I have the Wrangler ST's also. Plan to get T/A KO's, but since we're not experiencing a normal winter (dry), I might just use them until next year. Played in what little snow we have and 2wd was just fine - so far. It's the spring mud and a 3.5 mile dirt driveway that has me worried! Husband has a Cummins, so diesels aren't new to him - just me - so any suggestions/pointers are welcome. (Although I have read those already posted.)
We took delivery of our '06 CRD Limited last Wednesday. Our wait was only 6 weeks for a build-to-order. The build quality seems excellent. The Mobil 1 0W40 and Fram PH8316 went in/on today and we will be taking our first road trip from Silver City, NM, to Las Cruces, NM, and back, tomorrow.
We appreciate the knowledge-sharing on this forum and we will do the same. Thanks.
Mileage will vary from to time to time until the Liberty breaks in.Then will be more consistant. Break in period is usually 20 000 miles on a diesel. Expected mileage: 18 -20mpg city 23- 28 mpg hiway Some have been achieving 30mpg hiway .. by using these methods...
Also other factors will affect mileage by +/- 4mpg. 4 biggest factors for poor mileage:
****** Treat it like a car,it's not a Mack truck...
1.Regular oil changes at half the interval requested in the manual.This will add 1-2 mpg better than the average. Generally every 3000 miles,or 5000km's change filter and oil.
2.Poor fuel quality. Which is a big factor for diesel fuel. This uaually yields poor mileage most of the time. buyer beware**** - Fuel that has been sitting at a station for longer than a month will go stale. A clue, generally that a station is selling poor quality fuel ,is when the price drops drastically to unload old fuel onto un-witting customers. Answer.. Shop at a known station that services diesels ,then you know the fuel will be fresh. Hint** Try to fill up on a premium diesel fuels. Although generally 10 cents or more/gallon , comparatively to regular,will yield better mileage results when travelling long distances,or towing. -Premium has a higher cetane level than regular, which means at cruising speed the engine works less to keep that speed and this produces better mileage over all,and rebating the savings with better mileage. Look for these : BP.premium Shell diesel ultra Citgo #2 Sunoco Gold When these are not available Fill up at a truck stop on normal #1 diesel.
Also.. 2.Generally during the winter monthes A general suggestion of using fuel additives for diesel fuel when filling up will help average mileage stay higher and increase efficiency of the engine. Ones preferably will have a cetane improver,and water /wax displacer in it + upper cylinder lubricity formula. These will have to be added when fueling .
3.Low Tire pressure.Check tire pressures once /2 weeks.
-Keep tire pressure at 35psi.This lowers rolling resistance,which helps mileage.
4.SLOW DOWN !!***Keep Hiway speed under 60 mph*** Use the cruise control when you can. Your best mileage will be between 45-58mph. This method keeps your RPM's down under 1900,plus while being 5th gear will help mileage and lower wear and tear on engine.
Good luck .. **JEEP Diesel... "just imagine a new age of SUV" *** Speak Soon ..Lightnin3..
There are a lot of mileage posts on this forum. I have yet to get as low as 26 on the highway driving 65 MPH - usually 27 to 32. I have yet to get as high 22 MPH in town - usually around 19. Overall mileage since new is 24.3 MPG, right now - slipping a little in winter.
I was recently told by my dealer that you must replace the oil plug washer at each oil change. Has anyone else experienced this? When they performed my first oil change, I noticed an oil leak that didn't stop. After two weeks, took it back to the dealer, they replaced the oil plug and the washer.
It sounds like several people perform their own oil changes, but at the dealer what can one expect to pay? So far, mine have been free.
Hi, Bob welcome. I have just completed my 12,000 mile service. I used 5w/40 Kendal GT 1 synthetic. I also changed to 75/90 synthetic gear oil in both front and rear differentials. I have been getting a constant 22.9 mpg around our country roads with no city driving. On the highway after over an hour of driving I average around 29mpg. I have seen up to 32mpg 40-50f temps and cruising under 65 mph. If I see an improvment with change of gear lube I will let every one know........John Has any tried fitting 245/75 16 tires on their CRD?
Comments
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks for the diagrams from Renault, but my French is in a rather poor state of dis-repair. The vacuum solenoid pictured here looks different from what is on my CRD. If you can get these or any other diagrams in German, that would be fine as I am a native German speaker/reader/so-so writer.
The other thing I might try would be to adapt an old style fuel filter such as from an older Nissan or Toyota that has a plastic housing. I would plug up one end and then put numerous small holes all over the diameter of the case so air could flow through it.
The use of additives is controversial at best and everyone has their own opinion and their own favorites. I use a cetane improver and detergent from Amsoil or Redline. I feel the cetane improver helps the most. The higher the cetane, the quicker and cleaner the burn. The detergent keeps the injector nozzles squeaky clean but I do not think that it has any direct impact on the EGR valve.
As to "purging" the EGR valve, I use Caribou1's method at least weekly. I still have the factory EGR valve that came with my CRD and so far so good. After a good blast or two, the engine seems to run better (smoother, quieter). Could be my imagination too, what is left of it.
Trailblazer SS sure looks good. I wish I was younger and richer.
egr failure (they call it egr coolant), lack of achieving posted mileage, vw dealer lack of expertise, is the tdi worth the cost difference, etc. In short, many (most?) of the complaints one finds here are also seen on that site. In fact, one contributor noted (in response to a question "i'm scared to buy a tdi based on what i see here") said, don't worry people don't post unless they have problems.
Sounds familiar, doesn't it!
Make a web search with "agr ventil reparatur".
This will make you feel much better. If you get to the page #TDI PROBLEME# and read about polymerisation of the engine sump oil after using biodiesel (with clear pictures if you please), you may not have a good night's sleep.
I think it's safer to stick to what we know is good and don't reinvent the wheel unless we have a spare one with us
Nasty looking pictures. They speak of unburned biodiesel getting into the sump and really gumming up the works. Will I stop using B5 or B10? Probably not since I do not use it that often. Also, I change oil and oil filter pretty frequently, every 4K miles.
1. Did I just get lucky with my Jeep, or will the problems described throughout this forum eventually catch-up to me?
2. What exactly is an EGR valve, how will I know when it goes out?
3. Is anyone using 'by-pass filtering' for the oil? I read where some folks had been using this on Ford Powerstroke Diesels and was wondering if there was any applicability to the CRD.
You will find that most of the time people post with complaints/problems and this probably corresponds to about 1% of the CRD owners.
It is a great vehicle and you should experience very few or none of the problems posted here.
The EGR is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and mine has been fine so far. I hear any problems are due to the poor quality/low cetane fuel in the US.
cheers
Wally
The computer in you CRD monitors the functioning of the EGR valve and will turn on an engine warning light if a problem is detected. I have a Mar. 05 build date and I have not had a problem with the EGR valve, yet. It is a part that is doomed to fail, sometime.
My limited knowledge of bypass filtering is that it is mostly used on commercial diesel engines where the oil is changed at intervals of 25k miles or longer and the engines hold 15 quarts or more of oil. According to my parts guy, the oil filter on the CRD is the same one used on the Ford PowerStroke Diesel, so (if true) it ought to be good enough for the smaller CRD engine. The bypass filtering systems that I saw were pretty big and room is limited under the CRD hood. You might be just a well off to just buy good quality oil filters.
The oil changes are frequent enough so that the oil is not totally wiped out and still has good lubricating and adequate detergency.
I would like to use a Power Stroke filter due to the added size I can get an extra qt. of oil out of the deal. If anyone knows of a BIGGER oil filter please advise. Thanks
Hey Jimmi ,
Are the Powerstroke filters larger than a typical Fram filter?..
If so I am interested in getting some.
I am looking for a filter with a larger filtering surface,for better cleaning ability ,plus more oil capacity,thats great.
Where could you get these types of filters??
Speak Soon ...
Lightnin3...
It's good. Read it with ADOBE. Looks real. Covers 2004, 2005 and 2006 model years for Libertys. With shipping etc, it was about $65.
A bigger filter WILL hold more dirt, give more sump capacity, but it acts as a fluid capacitor (acccumulator) and may keep the oil passages to the turbo from coming up to pressure as quick as is needed. This problem surfaced on 1978 Buick Regal Sports Coupes (w/Turbo 3.8 gas engine) that my brother had. Wiped Turbo Bearings.
Just a consideration.
I went to the WIX look-up site and could not find a match with FPS. There were two different WIX filters for the FPS that I found with different numbers. Please accept my apology for posting bad info on this site.
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super is a good 15W-40 mineral based oil for your Peter Builts, Western Stars and Freightliners. (Cummins, Cats and Detroits). I like Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 for it's group II base stock. Shell is OK, they know oil.
I remounted the cheesy ST tires for the trip w/ 38 front & 36 rear psi. They continue to provide decent service and great economy.
Although the CRD delivers noticeably diminishing returns after 70 mph (compared to petrol powered), it kept up ably in 85 - 95 mph Bay Area traffic. Satisfying to have the reserve acceleration for confounding habitual lane hoppers in Beamers and Benzes: Who'd have you think even 85 mph isn't fast enough. :mad:
Owyhee!
High cetane meaning the fuel burns more promptly upon injection which relates to timing, like piston being on it's way down the power stroke. Diesels are quieter with high cetane fuel.
Diminishing returns above 70 mph is related to aerodynamic drag. I'll bet Libby's have the drag coefficient of shoe boxes. Does anybody have a number for Liberty drag?
I'm a mechanical engineer, that took some organic chemistry in college, at a utility that has a cluster of nuclear plants and have responsibility for supporting diesel driven stuff like big standby generators (7MW) to little diesel driven compressors, mostly from the petroleum side, fuel & oil. I also have responsibility for the oils, greases and other lubes used around the plants. Gone to lots of training at SwRI etc. and done QA audits at Mobil Beaumont and one at Ricardo. (long ago our plants contracted lubes with Exxon)
I've played with diesels at home too, '79 Chevy C-10 w/GM-Olds, Cadi w/ 4.3 Olds, '63 MB 190Dc, '90 Dodge Cummins.
But I'm a student more that teacher still. Sometimes being known for having a focused interest brings you people that you learn from while helping them. It's fun for me. Thank you!
These big companies help each other. The oil guys will buy additives and base stocks from each other. GM will lend a brake engineer to Ford or do research together like the new 6 speed automatic trannys coming out soon. It's all a commodity to them.
The mileage I got was most related to speed, constancy of speed, and temperature. My mileage figures are for all driving activities, including warm-up, stops, acceleration. Cruising at 58 mph on a warm day with an unloaded Libby, I'm likely near the middle-thirties mpg.
Cetane improver is highly recommended as I see, smell, feel, and hear the results of using it. Dieselmotive, a viscous lubricity additive, is also a very effective injector cleaner showing rapid results over the many treatments I've done. When traveling under high demand conditions, ensuring good fuel lubricity makes sense.
11K now. March `05 Build. No time in the shop at all. None. No leaks whatsoever. EGR- What EGR? Am I happy with it or what !!!
If you're stuck for the right oil and can't find a 0W-40 synthetic, your always safer going for a slightly thicker oil choice.
Drag Coefficient = 0.421
Frontal Area = 29.74 sq. ft. (2.76 sq. m.)
One thing I don't ever think I'll get used to is the lack of storage space. We commute 130 miles daily and need space for lots of items in our 'mini home' away from home. I'm looking for something with storage for directly behind the front seats with the rear seats down, but looks like we'll be making it ourselves.
We're also wanting to mount an EGT gauge somewhere, but looks like this also will need to be custom.
Has anyone any pre-made solutions for either of these? I didn't find anything in the search, except wish lists!
BTW - I have the Wrangler ST's also. Plan to get T/A KO's, but since we're not experiencing a normal winter (dry), I might just use them until next year. Played in what little snow we have and 2wd was just fine - so far. It's the spring mud and a 3.5 mile dirt driveway that has me worried!
Husband has a Cummins, so diesels aren't new to him - just me
I'm looking forward to my jeep-ventures!
Michelle
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
We appreciate the knowledge-sharing on this forum and we will do the same. Thanks.
Mileage will vary from to time to time until the Liberty breaks in.Then will be more consistant.
Break in period is usually 20 000 miles on a diesel.
Expected mileage:
18 -20mpg city
23- 28 mpg hiway
Some have been achieving 30mpg hiway
..
by using these methods...
Also other factors will affect mileage by +/- 4mpg.
4 biggest factors for poor mileage:
******
Treat it like a car,it's not a Mack truck...
1.Regular oil changes at half the interval requested in the manual.This will add 1-2 mpg better than the average.
Generally every 3000 miles,or 5000km's change filter and oil.
2.Poor fuel quality.
Which is a big factor for diesel fuel.
This uaually yields poor mileage most of the time.
buyer beware****
- Fuel that has been sitting at a station for longer than a month will go stale.
A clue, generally that a station is selling poor quality fuel ,is when the price drops drastically to unload old fuel onto un-witting customers.
Answer..
Shop at a known station that services diesels ,then you know the fuel will be fresh.
Hint**
Try to fill up on a premium diesel fuels.
Although generally 10 cents or more/gallon , comparatively to regular,will yield better mileage results when travelling long distances,or towing.
-Premium has a higher cetane level than regular,
which means at cruising speed the engine works less to keep that speed and this produces better mileage over all,and rebating the savings with better mileage.
Look for these :
BP.premium
Shell diesel ultra
Citgo #2
Sunoco Gold
When these are not available
Fill up at a truck stop on normal #1 diesel.
Also..
2.Generally during the winter monthes
A general suggestion of using fuel additives for diesel fuel when filling up will help average mileage stay higher and increase efficiency of the engine.
Ones preferably will have a cetane improver,and water /wax displacer in it + upper cylinder lubricity formula.
These will have to be added when fueling .
3.Low Tire pressure.Check tire pressures once /2 weeks.
-Keep tire pressure at 35psi.This lowers rolling resistance,which helps mileage.
4.SLOW DOWN !!***Keep Hiway speed under 60 mph***
Use the cruise control when you can.
Your best mileage will be between 45-58mph.
This method keeps your RPM's down under 1900,plus while being 5th gear will help mileage and lower wear and tear on engine.
Good luck ..
**JEEP Diesel... "just imagine a new age of SUV" ***
Speak Soon ..Lightnin3..
There are a lot of mileage posts on this forum. I have yet to get as low as 26 on the highway driving 65 MPH - usually 27 to 32. I have yet to get as high 22 MPH in town - usually around 19. Overall mileage since new is 24.3 MPG, right now - slipping a little in winter.
It sounds like several people perform their own oil changes, but at the dealer what can one expect to pay? So far, mine have been free.