bvcrd: Eventually one learns how to breath so much humidity that scuba gear in the Lake of the Ozarks. However learning to sift out the mud in the water while inhaling takes some real effort. Most out of state visitors try and out of water over their head and .....Farout
I have tried to quit posting twice now. I'm glad you are here. Couldn't dc have a better ccv and used the pre-existing turbo bearing oil return line to put the liquid back into the sump by using a Y or a T at the block. The tube is just above the oil filter and is sealed into the block by a rubber washer.
At twenty thousand miles of 0w40 do you think I can spray up into the intake beyond the anti-shudder valve to do any good?
Freightliner sent me to a radiator shop in FT. Worth that handles their large rigs and even huge off road equipment. Tomorrow, they can steam the intercooler while still in the jeep. Some of the solidified goo still remains on the orange silicon lined intercooler tube. I couldn't scrape it off even with my finger nail even after tedious cleaning.
While the Power Service VP told me last year that one of their customers reported his rig ran best with a 3 times recommended dose(the VP stated that nothing is gained beyond their recommended dosages), I too saw the report of detrimental effects by using too much cetane additive.
I was waiting for the new smaller Provent but I'm getting impatient and probably will order mine today or tomorrow.
Dave: Pardon my ignorance, but what is a Provent. I think it's some kind of filter, but I know nothing about this Provent. Because about the Provent, I am in the dark and....Farout
Post 4431 gives the correct name. I'll let the more knowledgeable describe the spring and it's venting operations of the excess crankcase pressure not to atmosphere (open crankcase venting) but looped back (ccv closed crankcase). While I lived through post 1967 automotive changes - this is my first turbo, first diesel, first jeep.
at diesel fuel school @ Southwest Research Inst, they said cetane improver active ingredient was liquid dynamite (tri-nitro-toluene TNT). We can look at MSDS sheets for cetane improvers. That might smell like nitro methane. Might explain why too much is a bad thing. (might stretch the head bolts a bit ) So it would be good to know how much cetane is too much.
The engine has a crankcase vent that vents some oil vapors and any combustion chamber gasses that make it past the rings (Dr. Diesel Forbid ). As an emissions reduction effort, Vapors from the crankcase are supposed to be recycled by adding them to the air intake to be burned as fuel. (PCV valve on a gasoline car). Those vapors reportedly condense into a tar like mess before they get back to the air intake. Most condensing would take place in the intercooler. The tar like mess would prevent the intercooler surfaces from conducting heat away from the intake air charge the way it should and may clog up the passages. The Provent 200 captures the oil vapors (in a cyclone action?) and returns the condensed oil back to the engine oil pan while letting the lighter vapors go on their way to the intercooler and turbocharger and engine air intake, helping the intercooler stay cleaner.
Thank you whitgallman! Do you have one and or you going to getone? Whats the cost? It sounds like it is something needed. How difficult is it to install? Thanks.....Farout
Thanks for that. It explains some. I'm just doing the minimum mix for now mainly for the anti gelling benefits. The bottle says you can double it for a higher cetane number or if you have REAL dirty injectors. Some smells you never forget. I was 10 feet away from a Nitro funny car once when he lit it up. I think I have permanent hearing damage and the smell burned my nose soooooooo badly.
Thanks for going the extra 1.6 kilometers to get information.
2. Oil in the intercooler hose, etc. Unfortunately normal. Oil leaks past the bearing seal when cold (by design). I did not ask about using a Provent kit, but I am starting to re-think my position on that topic.
Is it the turbo bearing seal that is “designed” to leak? I am starting to re-think the ProVent issue too. My only problem is the unit looks kind of cheesy for $160. I’m thinking of just putting an oil drain on the bottom of my intercooler.
DC is replacing my Liberty since they can't find what is causing the trans shudder. I experienced the same problems as I explained in an earlier post. The service manager went to bat for me and the district rep just tried to hide. I don't believe Liberty CRD owners have to ignore, put up with, or just go along with the problem. My CRD shudders so bad between 1800-2000 rpm,with very little load on the engine,one would think the drive line was going to snap.
Farout, I do not live in Missouri. I drive I29 and I70 on the way to and from Lake Oz. My summertime mileage on MO fuel is 29 to 32 mpg @ 65mph without cetane booster. I think the rolling hills are perfect for breaking in diesel engines and keeping the EGR valve freed up.
The Provent uses a replaceable filter element. Has a screw-on lid, remove the lid, pull out old element, slide in new element, replace lid. According to AirNowSupply, the element for the Provent 200 should last upwards of 2 years or better on a CRD. Provent 200 was designed to handle up to 200 liters/minute of air flow on a 500 HP diesel, and require filter changeout every year in that situation. According to the guy at the company, since our engine was only 160 HP, we should be able to go for 2 years or better. Another company that sells them, Reliable Industries, quoted me every 12,000 miles, but then they also wanted an extra $40 above what AirNow quoted for one of these units and a spare element. Go figure.
When I got mine from AirNow last year, it was $130 for the complete unit plus another $22 for a spare filter element, $160 tax and all. Reliable Industries price for the same setup was a little over $200.
You don't have to order the check valve for the drain tube unless you're going to try to route it back into the oil sump. From what I've seen come out of that drain, I wouldn't want it back in my oil! You can simply attach a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain fitting and plug the end. When it fills up, just pull the plug and drain it out.
Install is pretty easy, can do with basic hand tools, can find all the hose, fittings, clamps at your local hardware store. And if you're concerned about what the dealer might say, you can set it up such that you can pull it off in less than 5 minutes and hook the stock hose back up, and when back from the dealer, same amount of time to pop it back in.
If you don't like the price, check out www.tdiclub.com, and you can see some of the homebrew setups they've come up with to do the same job. Also, oldnavy on the LOST KJ forum is working to develop a filter that will take the place of the so-called "oil separator" in the valve cover, everything will look completely stock. He developed a similar rig for VW TDI engines, where all the oil drains back inside the valve cover, and the price will probably be considerably less than the Provent.
In the meantime, one thing you can do to slow down the process is switch over to a CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oil. From what I've seen, this significantly reduces the amount of oil vapor getting sucked out thru the CCV hose and how often I've had to drain the Provent.
But this isn't a panic item. Your engine isn't going to keel over and die tomorrow if you don't immediately get something like this installed. This is under long term reliability and preventing problems down the road. If anything about what I've related on this before sounded alarmist, I apologize. Yes, if you've been running for 20K miles and your intercooler and hoses look like what my friend's did, you would probably want to get them cleaned and flushed when you get the chance. But as far as intake manifold clogging, what I've heard from the VW crowd is this takes on the order of many tens of thousands of miles, 60, 80, or more, before it gets to the point that it's a real problem.
The CRD is my main means of transportation also. I was on the Jeep.com website and I found an article about a Cherokee with a Bluetec diesel. This was a concept vehicle, but it will be interesting to see if it goes to production. I might have to look into that if it goes to prodution.
Late yesterday, I started giving thought to installing a drain in the bottom of the intercooler but I am afraid of permanently damaging the thing. In a previous post, a comment was made about the vapors settling out in the intercooler and making a mess in there. A vapor/capture device prior to the intercooler makes sense though.
As to the bearing design on the turbocharger, I am puzzled by that myself. This is my second turbocharged vehicle and I did not have any oil on the cold side of the turbo in that one. It was a 1985 Dodge Daytona with the 2.2L. The other question is, is it oil leaking past the bearing? If so, we would all be grousing about significant oil consumption and some blue or white smoke. What about blowby gases? Diesels make lots of blowby gases by virtue of their high compression. These are being sucked out of the crankcase to be burned. Is that what we are seeing in the hoses and intercooler? That makes more sense to me than a sometimes leaking turbocharger bearing. If my assumption is correct, then a CI-4+ oil is in order here. :confuse:
The only issue one can have is when the coalescing filter is not mounted vertically. The oil that forms into dropplets onto the membrane is on the sucction side and could go into the engine in a liquid state. The turbo blades would chop the oil anyways :surprise:
The easiest way to show off the photos is to set up a CarSpace page; you use your same Edmunds user name and password to open it up, and then you can easily upload pics from your computer to your album there.
:lemon: My CRD is a real lemon. I am just a few days short of having it replaced under lemon law. Its been in the shop almost 30days in the last 7 months.
First the main computer went, took 17 days to fix. It still studders around 60-65mph (they cant fix it) the EGR value was replaced, the brakes make a popping sound when backing up in the morning (and they cant fix it) and now its eat oil, lots of oil. I am going through about a quart of oil every 500 miles! Its not leaking anywhere. My dealer has Chrysler techs involved but they cant find the issue. Its in the shop now for nobody knows how long.
It seems no matter what message board you go to everyone is having problems with the CRD. This has to be one of Chyslers biggest turds. I like the vehicle and like its torque. But it would be nice to be able to drive it once and awhile. I really dont want to go back to a gasser but what else is there? Are the 06 CRDs any better or are they garbage too?
Didn't get my charged air cooler flushed today. Owner's steam cleaner couldn't fit, didn't realize that there was no drain cock, and if the residue was the same or worse than the outlet tube then steaming would not work. If I brought the cooler in he could take the top off and clean it out but then again if this tacky goo is clogging up the small lines it wouldn't help. I was going to use my idea of a degreaser and do it myself after finding out the price of a new one. Grubbs parts manager, the same one who has helped me find the ps cap issue, said to hold off while he tries to get some help. I just want all the cooling I can get before another hot summer arrives.
"I wouldn't want it back in my oil!" I saw that reference last night by oldnavy. Are you going to changeout your Provent for this new one? Wait for oldnavy or order a Provent?
"I like the vehicle and like its torque. But it would be nice to be able to drive it once and awhile. I really dont want to go back to a gasser but what else is there?"
What else is there. There is the ?.
17 days for a computer - debateable. Brake screech has been answered. Rusty rotors in the morning - as in all vehicles but our pads are different. Or prior year issue fixed with new rotors and pads. Oil use not dripping then you must be burning it out the exhaust. Or are you overfilling the engine. What oil are you using-one woman questioned us here because her owner's manual said 5w30-she didn't see or get the yellow slip with 0w40 (which shouldn't be used either).Did anyone pull your intercooler to intake hose off. Are you getting 5 star assistance. How much are you willing to fight for your jeep?
I'm not having a lot of problems. I do have the shudder, not something that causes me to lose any sleep. Nothing has been replaced. Not even an EGR. No problem with brakes. The dipstick can be tricky to read, overfilling will lead to constant oil loss. How much oil is being added at oil change? To what mark on dipstick is oil being added? 1 hour is the time to replace computer.
Have you tried more than one dealer? Do you have previous experience with your dealer with another vehicle? If so, do you have confidence in their abilities?
Do you have abs and trak-lok? There are some who prefer this setup compared to the new computer controlled '06. Mention your dealer if you go lemon law, somebody may actually want it.
Popping rear brakes, is this the abs self-test? Or is this a rear diff issue? If trak-loc - service the rear dif and add two bottles of additive and synthetic lube if trailer package equipped. I believe that a few '06 in one production run have a rear axle recall. If you don't have an engine with rings, pistons, bore out of specs - the devil you know.
Some '05's did not have their engines cleaned out - machining grit found in the oil and dirty coolant recovery tanks.
I feel for you like I said on the other board, but go to any board and you will find folks who are having or have had problems with just about any make of vehicle, including the space shuttle. Most of the systems on our rigs are not new and have had ample proving time in other rigs home and abroad. I have a '06 and the only complaint I have is the center arm rest is too far back and I don't like the center window buttons. Could be worse as you have experienced.
I've been using Mobil1 0w-40. Never been overfilled. I've had two instances where I checked the oil and it was below the dipstick! Both times refilled or changed and the issue keeps repeating itself. I only have 11K miles on it.
The computer replacement took 17 days because chrysler couldnt supply parts. My dealer has been more than helpful, but there is a pattern of complaints with the CRD (tranny issues, EGR value issues, studdering issue, etc.) Not to mention the cruddy seat fabric used in the Liberty that stains just looking at it. I have never seen anything like it. Certainly not something that should be in a "trail rated" vehicle. In hind site, I should of got leather.
It doesnt seem DCX is doing much to address the issues. Nothing ticks me off more than making payments on a new vehicle than I cant drive. In all my issues, DCX engineers keeping telling the dealer they've never seen that issue before, which we all know is complete BS.
I'll still stay I enjoy the benefits of the this vehicle, but not enjoying the hassles. I had a RAM QC 4x4 before this that was perfect in function, except that it got 12mpg. Which was the main reason I got rid of it.
Sorry to hear you are having big problems. It has not been my experience. I have an '05 with 20k miles. One trip to dealer for EGR replacement. That was only repair over oil changes so far. It uses no oil between changes. I covered my seats with a neoprene cover so I don't know about staining.
I strongly suspect dealer is incompetent as nothing you have noted can't be fixed easily, except oil use which might require rings/valve guides.
However, you are doing the right thing. If you don't like it, or trust it, get rid of it and have DC buy it back. Just don't do what alot in here do and whine about it for 6 months.
siberia: Nice to know someone else but me drives around the Lake OZ. I am a full timer. I get a consistant 22 mpg and have got as high 23.4 mpg. I have yet to go any farther than Columbia, MO and I have 11,000 miles on it. We bought it on Sept 29/05. Miles fly by when your having fun. Where did you get your CRD?
Hi all This provent issue bothers me. All diesels have blow by this is normal all diesels have oil in the intake tracks this is normal unless you are using large amounts of oil there is not a problem. Intercoolers have been used for years. The volume of air moving through them pulls the oil out. No problem! I won,t try to second guess the VM engineers. Everyone posting here is under warranty. If you have issues bring them up with service. There is nothing harder to trouble shoot then something that has been monkeyed with by owner or worse monkeyed with then removed. I can only wish everyone trouble free miles but don't look for trouble. This is transportation drive the hell out of it . Also the fuel milage was on the window sticker! quite whining this is the only car I've owned that beats the advertised milage .....John
Winter2: Your wish is DCX's delight. Look on mike's totally free jeep news it is www.jeepnewsnow.com This was on the site about a month ago. The Grand C will get the Bluetec diesel engine and come out as a 2007 1/2 in late 2006 or early 2007. Look for the prrice to be more than the "Hemi" which is not in the true real world a hemi. Hope this makes your day.
If you want to step up a little you can get the ML320 CDI due in October 2006. I have driven the ML350 and they are nice. A couple bucks more than a GC diesel.
I can beat that. I managed to make only 1500 miles (yes, fifteen hundred!) and my 06 CRD is in its 4th repair – altogether 35 days in repairs and counting. EGR, computer, solenoid - new problems keep piling up. My mpg was only 18 (50/50 city/highway). And yes, this is a five star dealer. DC is slow with sending parts, which is part of the problem and their customer service is atrocious.They still want to fix the car, but I rather have a new one under the lemon law. Enough is enough. :mad:
I feel your pain on the stuttering... Chrysler is aware of the issue but their response is that "that's the way the vehicle is". The current theory is that it's a fuel management/software problem. What RPM range is the stuttering occurring in...? What part of the country do you live in...? I am aware of half a dozen owners around Denver that are having the stuttering...
The more I read your comments, the more I realize my initial stance against installing a Provent is correct.
After doing a bunch of research, I realized that the black vapor is the oil coming apart mixed with blowby gases. I looked ASTM-D5800 (Noack volatility). Several of the oils mentioned in this forum had low to mid teens evaporation rates. That means, at least to me, that the oils are not as stable as they should be and that these vapors will settle out in cooler parts of the engine potentially leading to sludging in the engine and making a mess down the road.
In my research, I found that there were several oils that with single digit evaporative rates that would work in the CRD. They are the 5W-40, 10W-40 and 15W-40 oils from Amsoil and the 15W-40 from Red Line oil. The first one is under 9% while the other two from Amsoil are in the mid 6% range. Red Line's oil is at an even 6%. To me cleaner is better. I keep my cars for twelve or fourteen years. I have looked at the numbers for the other ASTM tests and they are within a few percent of the numbers of the recommended oil and the acceptable oil mentioned in the owners manual. That is good enough for me. If it stays cleaner longer, so much the better.
I guess you are macd at ----forum. You better look at the intercooler system. The provent would have saved you. I tried to give you a clue about engine build and the only other possible explanation was given by whitgallman-ccv. That little black cap with the hose to the turbo has a spring in it and only opens when a spec pressure happens. I suspected that yours has failed or bad from the start and your oil (that should be lubing your top end) is being pumped by the turbo through your intake. I'll let a mechanic explain if oil starvation has destroyed your top end and if your engine has taken a hit.
Or is it the turbo bearing cooling oil leak that winter2 mentions-but quarts passing the bearing?-do you cool down your turbo.
My selling dealership is a stalag for daimler, while my local dealership only cares about what keeps me going.
The more I think about it, the more I realize that the turbo bearing is not the culprit.
The consumption has to be from elsewhere. A leaking bearing will leak not matter what the temperature is and you will get smoke coming out of the exhaust. I am wondering if engine oil is being pulled out of the engine via the CCV system? What about valve seals, valve guides? Is the CCV being over pressured and pushing oil to places it should not go?
Getting a replacement for a Jeep is not as easy as it use to be. DCX actually has sorta like a court. You will pay for the mileage used. Sometimes this is such a deduction you can only wind up with a big dead horse to pay and added into a new contract. I hope it turns out good for you. This takes some time so be patient.
My oil measurement dipstick always quickly levels itself to what I approximate as 1/3 quart below max assuming between the two dots is a full quart. I stopped filling to max dot, and it stopped consuming at 2000 miles. Now at 7000 miles and oil is STILL at 1/3 quart down from max dot on stick. Could be just coincidence, but worth investigating.
Does your consume oil below the operating range on the dipstick? Or just what you keep "topping off?"
I don't think that 1/3 quart is enough to put it into an overfill situation, even if the dip stick were mispunched. That seems like a real finicky allowance, one that wouldn't make much difference one way or the other. 1 or 2 quarts.....yes, but not 1/3 out of a max fill of 6.4
Mine stuttered some until I got the software changed. Helped a lot, but would do it when loading the drive line in 4WD. After the transmission was repaired it did it very little. Since I overheated the engine due to snow plugging the radiator, it hasn't done it since.
I am new and this is the fist time that i reply. you have to be carefully with the dealers I have an o5 build on june with 2300 miles with no problem, I call the service dept. with concern about the color of the oil. they change the oil for free and when I drove home the engine light came on. call them took it back and now I have glow coil problems. I wonder what is going to be next. they want money)
Comments
At twenty thousand miles of 0w40 do you think I can spray up into the intake beyond the anti-shudder valve to do any good?
Freightliner sent me to a radiator shop in FT. Worth that handles their large rigs and even huge off road equipment. Tomorrow, they can steam the intercooler while still in the jeep. Some of the solidified goo still remains on the orange silicon lined intercooler tube. I couldn't scrape it off even with my finger nail even after tedious cleaning.
While the Power Service VP told me last year that one of their customers reported his rig ran best with a 3 times recommended dose(the VP stated that nothing is gained beyond their recommended dosages), I too saw the report of detrimental effects by using too much cetane additive.
I was waiting for the new smaller Provent but I'm getting impatient and probably will order mine today or tomorrow.
That might smell like nitro methane. Might explain why too much is a bad thing. (might stretch the head bolts a bit
So it would be good to know how much cetane is too much.
The Provent 200 captures the oil vapors (in a cyclone action?) and returns the condensed oil back to the engine oil pan while letting the lighter vapors go on their way to the intercooler and turbocharger and engine air intake, helping the intercooler stay cleaner.
ProVent ® is MANN+HUMMEL's newest oil separator for Closed & Open Crankcase Ventilation.
Seems the price was $13?.00 Not sure
http://www.airnowsupply.com/provent/index.htm
Thanks for going the extra 1.6 kilometers to get information.
2. Oil in the intercooler hose, etc. Unfortunately normal. Oil leaks past the bearing seal when cold (by design). I did not ask about using a Provent kit, but I am starting to re-think my position on that topic.
Is it the turbo bearing seal that is “designed” to leak? I am starting to re-think the ProVent issue too. My only problem is the unit looks kind of cheesy for $160. I’m thinking of just putting an oil drain on the bottom of my intercooler.
When I got mine from AirNow last year, it was $130 for the complete unit plus another $22 for a spare filter element, $160 tax and all. Reliable Industries price for the same setup was a little over $200.
You don't have to order the check valve for the drain tube unless you're going to try to route it back into the oil sump. From what I've seen come out of that drain, I wouldn't want it back in my oil! You can simply attach a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain fitting and plug the end. When it fills up, just pull the plug and drain it out.
Install is pretty easy, can do with basic hand tools, can find all the hose, fittings, clamps at your local hardware store. And if you're concerned about what the dealer might say, you can set it up such that you can pull it off in less than 5 minutes and hook the stock hose back up, and when back from the dealer, same amount of time to pop it back in.
If you don't like the price, check out www.tdiclub.com, and you can see some of the homebrew setups they've come up with to do the same job. Also, oldnavy on the LOST KJ forum is working to develop a filter that will take the place of the so-called "oil separator" in the valve cover, everything will look completely stock. He developed a similar rig for VW TDI engines, where all the oil drains back inside the valve cover, and the price will probably be considerably less than the Provent.
In the meantime, one thing you can do to slow down the process is switch over to a CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oil. From what I've seen, this significantly reduces the amount of oil vapor getting sucked out thru the CCV hose and how often I've had to drain the Provent.
But this isn't a panic item. Your engine isn't going to keel over and die tomorrow if you don't immediately get something like this installed. This is under long term reliability and preventing problems down the road. If anything about what I've related on this before sounded alarmist, I apologize. Yes, if you've been running for 20K miles and your intercooler and hoses look like what my friend's did, you would probably want to get them cleaned and flushed when you get the chance. But as far as intake manifold clogging, what I've heard from the VW crowd is this takes on the order of many tens of thousands of miles, 60, 80, or more, before it gets to the point that it's a real problem.
As to the bearing design on the turbocharger, I am puzzled by that myself. This is my second turbocharged vehicle and I did not have any oil on the cold side of the turbo in that one. It was a 1985 Dodge Daytona with the 2.2L. The other question is, is it oil leaking past the bearing? If so, we would all be grousing about significant oil consumption and some blue or white smoke. What about blowby gases? Diesels make lots of blowby gases by virtue of their high compression. These are being sucked out of the crankcase to be burned. Is that what we are seeing in the hoses and intercooler? That makes more sense to me than a sometimes leaking turbocharger bearing. If my assumption is correct, then a CI-4+ oil is in order here. :confuse:
As an example, you can check out mine. :shades:
Maybe one of these days I'll find some photos of my old '74 CJ-5 to scan and post.
Steve, Host
First the main computer went, took 17 days to fix. It still studders around 60-65mph (they cant fix it) the EGR value was replaced, the brakes make a popping sound when backing up in the morning (and they cant fix it) and now its eat oil, lots of oil. I am going through about a quart of oil every 500 miles! Its not leaking anywhere. My dealer has Chrysler techs involved but they cant find the issue. Its in the shop now for nobody knows how long.
It seems no matter what message board you go to everyone is having problems with the CRD. This has to be one of Chyslers biggest turds. I like the vehicle and like its torque. But it would be nice to be able to drive it once and awhile. I really dont want to go back to a gasser but what else is there? Are the 06 CRDs any better or are they garbage too?
I saw that reference last night by oldnavy.
Are you going to changeout your Provent for this new one?
Wait for oldnavy or order a Provent?
What else is there. There is the ?.
17 days for a computer - debateable. Brake screech has been answered. Rusty rotors in the morning - as in all vehicles but our pads are different. Or prior year issue fixed with new rotors and pads. Oil use not dripping then you must be burning it out the exhaust. Or are you overfilling the engine. What oil are you using-one woman questioned us here because her owner's manual said 5w30-she didn't see or get the yellow slip with 0w40 (which shouldn't be used either).Did anyone pull your intercooler to intake hose off. Are you getting 5 star assistance. How much are you willing to fight for your jeep?
Nothing has been replaced. Not even an EGR.
No problem with brakes.
The dipstick can be tricky to read, overfilling will lead to constant oil loss. How much oil is being added at oil change? To what mark on dipstick is oil being added?
1 hour is the time to replace computer.
Have you tried more than one dealer? Do you have previous experience with your dealer with another vehicle? If so, do you have confidence in their abilities?
Popping rear brakes, is this the abs self-test? Or is this a rear diff issue? If trak-loc - service the rear dif and add two bottles of additive and synthetic lube if trailer package equipped. I believe that a few '06 in one production run have a rear axle recall. If you don't have an engine with rings, pistons, bore out of specs - the devil you know.
Some '05's did not have their engines cleaned out - machining grit found in the oil and dirty coolant recovery tanks.
The computer replacement took 17 days because chrysler couldnt supply parts. My dealer has been more than helpful, but there is a pattern of complaints with the CRD (tranny issues, EGR value issues, studdering issue, etc.) Not to mention the cruddy seat fabric used in the Liberty that stains just looking at it. I have never seen anything like it. Certainly not something that should be in a "trail rated" vehicle. In hind site, I should of got leather.
It doesnt seem DCX is doing much to address the issues. Nothing ticks me off more than making payments on a new vehicle than I cant drive. In all my issues, DCX engineers keeping telling the dealer they've never seen that issue before, which we all know is complete BS.
I'll still stay I enjoy the benefits of the this vehicle, but not enjoying the hassles. I had a RAM QC 4x4 before this that was perfect in function, except that it got 12mpg. Which was the main reason I got rid of it.
I strongly suspect dealer is incompetent as nothing you have noted can't be fixed easily, except oil use which might require rings/valve guides.
However, you are doing the right thing. If you don't like it, or trust it, get rid of it and have DC buy it back. Just don't do what alot in here do and whine about it for 6 months.
Farout
I can only wish everyone trouble free miles but don't look for trouble. This is transportation drive the hell out of it . Also the fuel milage was on the window sticker! quite whining this is the only car I've owned that beats the advertised milage
Farout
Chrysler is aware of the issue but their response is that "that's the way the vehicle is". The current theory is that it's a fuel management/software problem. What RPM range is the stuttering occurring in...? What part of the country do you live in...? I am aware of half a dozen owners around Denver that are having the stuttering...
After doing a bunch of research, I realized that the black vapor is the oil coming apart mixed with blowby gases. I looked ASTM-D5800 (Noack volatility). Several of the oils mentioned in this forum had low to mid teens evaporation rates. That means, at least to me, that the oils are not as stable as they should be and that these vapors will settle out in cooler parts of the engine potentially leading to sludging in the engine and making a mess down the road.
In my research, I found that there were several oils that with single digit evaporative rates that would work in the CRD. They are the 5W-40, 10W-40 and 15W-40 oils from Amsoil and the 15W-40 from Red Line oil. The first one is under 9% while the other two from Amsoil are in the mid 6% range. Red Line's oil is at an even 6%. To me cleaner is better. I keep my cars for twelve or fourteen years. I have looked at the numbers for the other ASTM tests and they are within a few percent of the numbers of the recommended oil and the acceptable oil mentioned in the owners manual. That is good enough for me. If it stays cleaner longer, so much the better.
Or is it the turbo bearing cooling oil leak that winter2 mentions-but quarts passing the bearing?-do you cool down your turbo.
My selling dealership is a stalag for daimler, while my local dealership only cares about what keeps me going.
The consumption has to be from elsewhere. A leaking bearing will leak not matter what the temperature is and you will get smoke coming out of the exhaust. I am wondering if engine oil is being pulled out of the engine via the CCV system? What about valve seals, valve guides? Is the CCV being over pressured and pushing oil to places it should not go?
Farout
Farout
Does your consume oil below the operating range on the dipstick? Or just what you keep "topping off?"
Here's the link again.
Steve, Host
After the transmission was repaired it did it very little.
Since I overheated the engine due to snow plugging the radiator, it hasn't done it since.
Farout
you have to be carefully with the dealers I have an o5 build on june with 2300 miles with no problem, I call the service dept. with concern about the color of the oil. they change the oil for free and when I drove home the engine light came on. call them took it back and now I have glow coil problems. I wonder what is going to be next.