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Comments
Nescosmo.
Young engineers learn from known "reliable" academic sources so their initial developments often look alike. I rely more on specific user input than publicity.
The major difference between makes today is the nature of additives incorporated in the bulk rubber. I chose the BFG because I wanted to "push the limits of boredom"
My next set of tires will be exactly the same; you can't imagine how life becomes simple when you forget about pot holes, nails, foot high granite sidewalk edges, and whatever doesn't come to my mind
I changed the tires on my Liberty at 111 miles old to Bridgestone Alenza tires. I have nearly 24K miles on my CRD and I have been more than satisfied with them. They provide very good wet control even when there is tons of water on the road. They also worked reasonable well in snow and ice this past winter. Another brand to consider is Yokohama G051 tires. Had a set of these on my pickup and was quite pleased with them.
I would suggest purchasing your tires on line at either tire rack or tires-easy.com. As to Goodyear tires, I avoid them like the plague. They have always given me problems and I have found their performance to be less than gratifying under most conditions and damn near dangerous in wet conditions. Michelin tires are generally allergic to water once they are more than one third worn.
Good luck
On the CRD there are two hoses, a valve in the filter housing plus the upper gasket of the filter to look after. By two hoses I mean the suction coming from the tank to the filter and the filter to pump hose.
If your heating element remains ON, this can "help" forming a vapor lock. In this case there are no traces of fuel visible from outside. If you prime the fuel line, you will not detect this either.
Nescosmo.....
We also have a barometric pressure sensor built into the ECU. This compensates altitude changes. Has anyone noticed how "linear" this engine pulls while going up to 10,000 feet?
Just look here, page 4:
http://www.mstbw.de/imperia/md/content/mstbw/bestpractice/bosch_mems_12_micromac- hine_symposium_ernst.pdf
go to www.lostkjs.com then press forum go to the section of the CRD that said: Liberty CRD love that torque.
then go to the section that said, Faq's on the CRD go down to: What is a Air Intake Temp Sensor. and there will show you picture and direction of what to do. If you have any ??? let me know there are others places for you to look.
On our forum, there are places that show you the samething but I do not know how to find it. You will have to ask the Sysop to help you.
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
My tires could also have been an issue - I have kept the stock Goodyears that so many people have disparaged. I find them adequate for my regular use, but when they wear out (and at 31,000 miles that isn't far away) I will definitely be buying something different to replace them.
The worst places I've been are where there is no line in the middle of a narrow road, where erosion breaks the asphalt along what should be the edge of the cliff, add fallen leaves or gravel left on the road from last winter, 'traces' of cattle going to the barn twice a day and you will find that city traffic becomes quite relaxing :shades:
Over here most roads are winding, busy and usually not very steep because of winter. You have steeper and much longer straight inclines in America that are often the cause of more spectacular accidents during winter.
The CRD handles well where others struggle but it looses interest where others excel
I am having the same problem with the reservoir solenoid (#1140)on my 05 Liberty. Any suggestions?
:surprise:
At least I knew you were in France! Obviously you must have about 100 times more mountain driving experience (both in general and with the CRD) than I do.
If I keep my CRD - which is looking slightly more likely as I go more weeks since my last warranty repair - I will definitely be getting better tires on it.
For choosing the proper tires I think different situations call for different choices:
- sharp rocks => an overall tougher tire construction,
- rocky inclines => a harder and longer lasting rubber,
- mud => an 'open groove' for easy evacuation,
- sand => larger footprints to distribute the weight,
- snow => high inflation pressure and thin tires,
- ice => soft rubber and thin deep grooves or spikes,
- grass => lateral grip, typically like the BFG T/A,
- against perforation => higher load index,
- rain => soft rubber with deep and wide grooves,
- perfect dry road => slicks :shades:
My original tires were different from the ones you get. They were called Goodyear Wrangler S4.
I found them OK for:
- snow, ice, rain and sand,
acceptable for:
- perfect dry road (they melted in one day at 85 mph!)
miserable for:
- perforation, rocks, mud, grass,
dangerous for:
- rocky inclines.
To compare with my actual BFG T/A, I would say:
they are OK for:
- sharp rocks, rocky inclines, perforation, perfect dry road ,
acceptable for:
- mud, sand, snow, grass,
miserable for:
- rain,
dangerous for:
- ice.
I have the impression I just described the S4 as a perfect all-year city tire :sick:
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo...
The old filter was pretty dirty. Did not find any water or sludge in the fuel when I pulled the water sensor from the bottom of the filter. The sensor was also clean.
$83 for 3
This is the first I have heard that an aftermarket fuel filter is available.
Your dealer is really trying to take you to the cleaners.
of it. Long and short they got it going.. However, about
two weeks later my wife used her key to start the vehicle
and it ran 30 sec and wouldn't start after that. Towed it
to the dealer and they accused me of having another key
cut which didn't have the security code. Told them I hadn't had one cut and it was my wife's key. They had
to reprogram her key into the system too. So a word to
all check that both keys work when a reprogram is done.
Hope this helped.... Brian
I replaced the Goodyear 225/75-16 ST's with Goodyear 245/70-16 Fortera TripleTred's. I do a lot of highway driving, and was able to try them out in a severe thunderstorm the day I had them put on...they handled the severe rainstorm great and make the CRD feel and drive like a brand new vehicle. Living in the snowbelt of Pa., I am sure they will come in handy this winter.
http://www.goodyearfortera.com/tripletred/index.html
Welcome to the forum.
To retrieve the codes, you need to turn the ignition off-on four times. Sometimes it takes several seconds for codes to appear on the odometer.
As to the problem you mention, I had to have a software update at 683 miles that corrected a drivability issue. Recently I had a load of bad fuel that caused my CRD not to run at all, code 1093, I think.
Sounds like you have a fuel flow restriction or else there is some air in the injection system. Try pumping the priming pump twenty times slowly making sure the piston makes full excursion each time. If you have any air in the system, this will push it out. Make sure all of the fuel system clamps are snug too.
You probably also have more miles on a CRD than most of us. Any comments on how it's been running, especially after you passed the 36,000 mile warranty eclipse?
- I put 42,000 miles on them and there is a bit over 1/4" thread left. This is nice for mileage.
Yesterday I rotated them and found that a large fastener went right through the tire
The sidewalls are bullet proof, but not the profile.
I just got my tire repaired. The fastener that punctured it was a 3/4" long self drilling metal screw. The mesh inside the rubber was not damaged , and the technician had a real hard time to drill and mill inside the tire for installing the rubber insert.
Nice job :shades: Costs me 32 Euros plus tip, about 50 USD :sick:
Around here the tire shops give you an invoice for $11 USD and then mark it "complimentary."
"Jeep Liberty Diesel EGR issues"
Well, guess what? The dealer, which has been there for 32 years, threw in the towel yesterday. OUT of business. They sold Jeep, Volvo, Suzuki and Chrysler. Gone.
Folks really need to relax about what they are reading. I have found over the past couple of years that most people in forums are there specifically because they are having trouble. Statistically speaking, they are a small minority of the population - but they are concentrated into one spot. Be careful about getting too "forum dizzy". Sometimes there really is such a thing as too much information. I read through these to get a better understanding of POTENTIAL problems, what to watch for and how to fix things. But I also did so with my Subaru as well as my F350 (both great cars for me - but labeled as crap & lemons by the people having trouble in the forums I read.)
One important thing that I have learned with any car is to establish a good relationship with a reputable 5 star dealer. This can be critical if there are recalls (which most cars have at some point or another)
So, relax, go get the TSBs taken care of, change the oil, keep it clean and have fun. These really are fun to drive. Plus, I have my own fueling station at my house in the form of a large tote and electric pump. I have always used exclusively 100% pure locally produced biodiesel with 0 problems - HOWEVER, I chose a dealer who is into it so I don't have to lie about using it. The cars both run fine. No tranny problems, no fuel problems, not even an ERG failure (which I attribute to the use of clean biodiesel).
We have over 35K on these cars now - far past the point my Subarus had issues.
Enjoy your cars! :mad:
My CRD has not been perfect but it is a good vehicle. It runs well and is quite economical for what it is. I have run my CRD on biodiesel blends up to 40% and it actually ran better. Unfortunately, biodiesel is hard to find in Montgomery County Maryland so I purchase when I am on the road.
Nescosmo....