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Ford F-250 Owners



  • Ok guys need some advice. I have read every post. I am getting ready to buy a new F250 w/6.0 Powerstroke. Saw demo trailer at dealer yesterday and engine seems to be upgraded to bullet proof. I plan to use this truck casually (I have a work truck). I tow a Kubota tractor about twice a month on a 16' trailer, total weight 6,000 lbs. dealer says I won't even know I am towing. I also will be taking the truck to my fishing cabin twice a month, 400 miles round trip. I feel I can justify the powerstroke because of the long road trips. Should I stay with a gasser or does it make sense to upgrade to the powerstroke?
  • I was directed here by the hosts...any help will save me! The truck is shutting down when it reaches operating temperature. This began right after I filled up at a station that I had never used before. Changed the filter, to no avail. I am not fully up on diesels but can make my way around an engine pretty well. Thanks in advance for any insights.
  • Have you drained the fuel line water separator? Owner's Manual tells how to do it.
    Put a bottle or two of Diesel Fuel treatment into tank to suck up any water in there. May have to change the fuel filter again afterwards as well.

    Try to buy your fuel at busy stations where big rigs go. Small convenience store stations can cause you trouble because they don't turn their fuel over fast enough.
  • Pilot3 Thanks for the advice!
  • Turned out to be the CPS. But thanks for the advice!
  • I am currently coming to the end of my lease of a ford f-250 diesel. I was wondering who might have some sound advice or direction?
  • Synthetic oil for my F250 6.0 vs regular?, Is it worth putting a K&N or some higher tech type air filter on?. First Diesel looking for additional tips. Will put 30 to 40K per year on.
  • Homebrew, I have 27K on now. I also use synthetic in my Harley and other gas cars. Thanks. TL
  • donldonl Posts: 1
    2002 Ford F250 7.3 liter diesel engine, 27,000 miles. Starts and runs fine when cold, stalls when reaches opperating temperature, anywhere from 3 to 20 miles. Will not start again until completely cool. I drain the off the fuel water separater every 1000 since 15000 as a precautionary measure. The fuel filter/water separater has been replaced at 17,000 miles and again at 25,000 miles.Have replaced cam sensor and powertrain control module. Any ideas where I should try next?
  • karengkareng Posts: 2
    I am "babysitting" my brothers 2004 F250 Turbo Diesel while he is out of the country on Marine Corp business. I have been driving the truck once a month to work and back since July, but this month it wouldn't start. I waited for the coil light to go off, and it just wouldn't turn over. It acted like it was flooded. So I waited a while and tried again and it still wouldn't start. Both the batteries seem to be fine, but it still won't turn over. I have tried every day for the past week and don't know what else to do. I have tried to contact him, but it is rather difficult. I would like to have it running when he returns this summer. Any suggestions? I believe that it is still under warantee. Should I have it towed to a dealership? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    By "it won't turn over." Do you mean that the engine doesn't want to crank when you turn the key? Or does the engine crank but it just won't catch and start?
    If it's the former and the engine won't crank: Do you have or could you borrow a battery charger from someone? Driving the truck once a month isn't enough to keep the batteries charged. In winter time batteries have less power because of the cold. The coil light is for the glow plugs in the cylinders that warm things up so the diesel fuel can ignite when compressed. The glow plugs draw a lot of current and can drain the batteries to the point where the truck won't turn over.

    If it's that the truck just won't start - it could be that the diesel fuel has gotten "old" from sitting, and most likely you may have water condensation in the diesel fuel. Is truck outside? If it's cold, the diesel fuel could've jelled. There's additives you buy to add to the fuel to get rid of the water. There's also ways to drain water out of the fuel lines - but you sound like you'd need professional help to drain the water separator and to change the fuel filter.
    Unfortunately, that kind of thing is more of maintenance issue, and wouldn't be coverd by warranty.

    Whatever, final outcome, I'd try to drive it once a week or more, and put fresh fuel and additives in it, so you don't have repeat problems before July.
  • karengkareng Posts: 2
    It is the latter. The truck cranks, but won't turn over. We live in a warm climate (the lowest temperature that we have had in the last month is the 40s), so I don't think that the cold would have effected it. I did try "jumping" the truck, just in case, and neither battery (it has two) seemed to be a problem. Although with two batteries, trying to jump it with one might not work either.

    The truck is outside and it has been abnormally wet (11 inches of rain in 2 months). What are the names of additives that I can buy to try and get the condensation out of the fuel? If I cannot get it to start, do I call someone to come out and drain the fuel lines?

    I really appreciate your time and advice. I have never dealt with a diesel. It is a WONDERFUL truck. Wish I could afford to get one like it. But instead I will just enjoy this one until July. :)
  • kawboykawboy Posts: 2
    Has anyone ever heard of installing a Ford V-10 into an older 1993 F-250 Supercab or other year models
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Take a close look at the smog rules in your state.

    At some "magic" model year some states require the smog equipment to match the later of either the vehicle or the engine. i.e. A 2004 engine in a 1993 means 2004 smog equipment.

    You just need to plan for transplanting the WHOLE deal, not just the engine.

    If you are going to drive on the street, do yourself a favor and do it right... Whatever that is. ;-)
  • hostohosto Posts: 1
    I bought a 1700# slide in pickup camper and need a truck to carry it. I will not do any off-roading. I'll occasionally tow a 1500# trailer. I would like to buy a 2005 F250 and am uncertain whether I need 6.0 PSD.

    Is the 5.4L engine enough power? Will the gas mileage suffer more for the 5.4L than the 6.0 PSD because of the weight and drag of the camper?

    The camper dealer said I should shy away from 2WD because 4WD had an extra spring and would offer a better ride. Is this true? If a 2WD can handle the load and gives a comfortable ride I'd like to buy 2WD.

  • krhkrh Posts: 3
    I have a 04 f-250 sc/lariat. Does anybody know if it is pre-wired for a power rear slide window? My previous ford was a regular cab and I became very accustomed to using the rear slide window, which I could open and close while driving. What would the cost be to have this added?
  • krhkrh Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 F250 SC with the 5.4 V-8 with the 4 speed auto transmission, 2600 miles. I'm still trying to get used to how it shifts. When I need to accelerate quickly from a complete stop the the Rpms sour but the truck doesn't until it shifts again. At one point it also will make an (air suction) noise in between shifting which allows a slight loss if power until it shifts again. The overall acceleration is fine, I hit 60mph easily it just doesn't seem very smooth. The dealership drove it and said everything was fine. My previous ford was a F-150 5 speed manual which I drove for 10 years. So the auto transmission is new for me in a truck but I feel like I'm driving a 6 cylinder instead of an 8. My guess at this point is I am driving a much heavier truck with much more drag on the engine which will take some getting used to. I've already towed over 7000lbs with my trailer and the truck has no problem pulling it, so I know it has all the power I need. Is this shifting normal?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Sorry for delay in reply - had a Wisdom tooth pulled, so I've haven't been on computer for several days. Do you ever see a "Water in Fuel" indicator come on when you try to start the truck? May not come on until there's a lot of water..... and just because it doesn't come on doesn't mean there isn't any water.

    Diesel Fuel Additives go by names of Power Service, Stanadyne and several others. You can find them at big-truck stops, and even Autozone, PepBoys & Walmart sell their own brands of diesel fuel treatment that get rid of water. (Read the label of the store brands, avoid them if they contain alchohol. Alchohol can cause other problems with diesels.) Fuel Additives may not be enough - may still have change fuel filter and drain the separator.

    Don't buy your diesel at you Mom & Pop, Quickie Mart - they usually don't turn their fuel over very quickly and you can get in trouble with water. Buy your fuel where the big rigs go, at least you know that they have a high turn over of their product

    A 1/2 a bottle of regular "Power Serve" at every fill-up helps. If you're using good quality blended fuel, conditioner, and filling up at about 3/8 of a tank, your doing all you can to prevent getting water.
  • pickupwbbpickupwbb Posts: 10

    I bought a 2005 F250 with the diesel in Nov and love it. No problems to date and I use it about the same as your description. They have also made it much quieter which is great.

    Good luck and go for the PSD!
  • Greetings,

    I have a 1999 250SD with the V-10 gas / auto OD transmission. I have a really hard shift between 1st and 2nd gear if under any kind of load. If I get off the gas JUST when the shift is occurring, the transmission will ease in very well. The same problem happens between 2nd and 3rd gear, to a lesser extent. I took the truck to a local trans shop, and nothing (physical at least) seemed to be wrong with the transmission. It was removed and examined by the mechanics. I was there so I know it's true.

    There is no discoloration / or evidence apparent with the fluid. Levels are correct and stable.

    Any thoughts or advice regarding this problem would be greatly appreciated.

  • Greetings,

    I have been searching the web and doing research to decide which engine to buy, based on various costs. I will be building my own house shortly, have property that I would like to develope in 3-5 yrs, live at high altitude, will occasionally be towing ~5K, and I like to have some power on hand.

    From a fuel mileage perspective, I figure that the PSD will save me about $550 / yr (assuming 12K yr, UNL 2.09, DSL 2.29; 12mpg and 18mpg respectively). That alone will take 8-9yrs to recoup.

    From a residual, I looked at trade in value for a 5yr old truck - with all options the same, there was a $3300 prem between PSD and V10. A 3yr old was $5K diff - so it seems that the PSD holds it value.

    My questions are as follows:
    1) How intensive and more is the maintance on the PSD (extra cost / yr)?

    2) Does anyone have actual mileage for a (05)4x4 V10, SC?

    3) Genreal drivalbity with the PSD. I read through this forum and see prblms mostly with the 7.3L and early 6L. Any issues with 05 6L?

    4) Does anyone know of other forums, i have done a few searches and cant seem to find many active forums?

    thanks and happy trucking.
  • I have a 95 f250 7.3 diesel 4X4. I've had the transmission rebuilt twice. The broken parts get repaired but I don't think the cause is ever found. Here recently the overdrive kicks off after driving past 60 mph in stop and go traffic.
    Once I start to slow down it bumps hard with no load. Is it confused? Are the mechanics confused too?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I have an '01 V10 Crew Cab 4x4 -
    Driveability is great, just start in any weather and it goes. Plenty of power. Get 12 mpg on average for highway, ~10 mpg city. 7-8 mpg towing ~9k lbs. Towing 5000 pounds, the V10 won't even know it's back there. Can't say much about '05 except for the 3-valve head has improved torque and hp over my motor. Gas engine will lose 2-3% of available power for each 1000 feet above sea level you go - turbo charger in diesel makes up for that problem, so PSD won't get weaker a higher elevations.

    PSD, whether 7.3 or 6.0 takes a bit more nurturing. In winter you need to (or probably should) wait for glow plugs to cycle before trying to start it. If temperatures go below 20F, then you should also probably plug in engine block heater to ensure quicker starts. Diesel fuel needs to be blended for winter - if there's water in fuel it can gel in your fuel lines and leave you totally stranded, until you warmup the whole truck. Need to add fuel anti-gel additive "Power Test" or others to be safe.

    PSD maintenance is more costly - need to use Diesel Grade motor oil - oil filters are more expensive too. Oil change is somewhere between 18 and 20 quarts (although I may be off by a couple quarts). Need to carry an extra fuel filter just in case you accidently pick up a load of fuel with water in it. Also need to learn how to purge the water separator from your fuel lines. PSD also has two batteries to be able to support the glow plugs and other accessories - usually when one battery goes the other isn't too far behind. 7.8L motor also needs anti-cavitation additive for the coolant to prevent pitting problems on the cylinder walls caused by air bubbles in the coolant. Problem has been addressed in 6.0L.

    PSD is a great engine either 7.3 or 6.0. '99, & '00 7.8 engines had some issues with injectors and a problem called the cackle where engine sounded funny, had less power and drank fuel. Avoid '03 6.0L engines too - they had some birthing pains with the first version of the new Powerstroke. Ford ended up buying a bunch of them back because they couldn't fix driveablility issues in a timely manner - not sure if they ever did fix them all. A lot of these early production run motors were re-sold later on.

    I don't tow that heavy, and I only tow a couple times a month, so V10 is great for me. Right now regular unleaded is $2.04/gallon for me - 39 gallon fill up is painful - but this truck isn't my daily driver. I saw Diesel this morning for $2.49 at Pilot truck center - gonna take a long time to make up the cost of the diesel motor based on better mileage. A V10 would work fine for you, the only issue I could see is high altitude robbing V10 of some power.
    Can't tell you about other PSD forums, because it's against the Edmunds rules.
  • Thanks for the info. The mileage for the V10 is less than i thought (i was thinking it was 12 in the city) and the altitude i am at is between 5-7K'. so i think i am leaning towards the 6L. out west diesel can be found for about .05 more than reg, sometimes even less.

    i have been shopping around diff dealers and it seems they are willing to deal out here. i get x-plan and the dealers keep calling me and are offering to take an additional $1K off plus the other rebates, i am not sure how they can do this - they tell me there is some special coupon they can use. the truck are going for about 42K, but it seems they are willing to let them go for ~34-35K; XLT, SC, 4x4, with nice tow package and dual alternators. of course the price is not final until the paperwork is signed and i have had dlrs in the past try to change it on me.

    any advice on how to keep getting the price lower? are there special rebates for folks who prev owned ford trucks?

    the dlr told me that the PSD needs to have oil changes at a min of 8K miles. not sure if this is bs or not.

    the info on the water was very helpful, i have heard of issues but was not sure what/how to deal with them. i would not want to get stranded out in a mesa in southern colorado or northern nm.
  • I have recently, Feb., purchased a 05 sd crew cab 6.0 diesel. I have had fumes in the passenger cab also. How did the dealer of Ford fix your problem? I know a couple of others having the same problems.
  • wr1wr1 Posts: 1
    Another Ford truck forum has 175 posts for the fumes in cab problem. My dealer has had my truck 3 times 05 f250sd 6.0. The only thing he could tell me is to keep the recirculate button on all the time. You have to do this every time you start the truck. Many owners have had problems with a cracked y pipe and others have different ideas on what is causing the problem. Ford is unable and unwilling to admit they have a problem. This problem happens mainly when you come to a stop at a light or when idling.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I hope I'm not too late, I haven't been around in a while. You may have already taken it to the dealership, just in case you haven't, here's my $.02 worth.

    These trucks use a hydraulic system to actuate the fuel injectors. The high pressure oil pump has to "build oil pressure" before the injectors will inject any fuel into the cylinder. It is possible that any pressure in this system has bled off due to it sitting for such a long period of time. Therefore it may take several seconds of cranking to build up enough oil pressure.

    I don't know what type of area you live in, but first go out and check the oil to make sure the level is ok. These trucks will not start if someone has drained the oil. You will also need very good batteries. If the oil level and batteries are good, then cycle the key on and let it sit until the "Wait to Start" light has gone off. Then crank on it for at least 10 seconds continuously. Watch your oil pressure gauge. Approximately 5 seconds into the cranking the gauge should begin to register some pressure. Do not crank for more than 10-12 seconds as you could overheat the starter motor.

    Let me know if that works.
  • drakedrake Posts: 1
    ljohnson, you are not the only one with this problem. I myself ordered a brand new 04' F350 King Ranch and i am having the same exact problem. It all started at about 4000 miles. It will surge and sometimes jerk with out notice going down the road. Once this starts it is only a matter of time before it starts to stall. It will stall at idle speed in park or in drive. It has happened several times while crossing an intersection pulling a trailer. I have had this truck in the shop 10 different times and of course most of them they can not get it to act up like is does when i drive it all the time. If you have gotten any help with this issue i wish you would share it with me. Thanks
  • cdownscdowns Posts: 3
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