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-My 2002 Honda Accord decided it liked to lock its doors by itself. Parked in the garage. Wifie complained a few times about going to the car and it was locked, I just thought she was tossing the fob into her monster purse and the button was getting pushed in the purse. (I never carried the remote. I hate the lumpy things.) I then put the thing in the garage unlocked myself, my wife wasn't messing with her purse to cause a remote button pushing issue, and I went back in a few minutes - the car was locked. Went down to the Honda dealer, talked to them, they looked at the TSB's for the car, and how about that, 2002 Honda Accords (and several other years/models) seemed to be locking themselves up. Replaced the 'module' which was part of the power window/door lock/etc buttons in the drivers door. Fixed it right up.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm
Vehicle: 2004 Ram 1500, 4 Door, 5.7L Hemi, manual control A/C
History: in the 2.5 years since purchase, the A/C coming from the vents has been freezing and high volume air, cooling the 4 door cabin quickly, even with temps in the high 90s...
Last Wednesday, June 13, wife is driving with 2 passengers, temp is in the mid 80s...suddenly, A/C is blowing cool, but not cold air, and, even on high fan, the air volume seems decreased, like the fan is blowing hard but less air is coming out...
I leave it at the Dodge dealer next day for repair (as an aside, I was given a loaner PT Cruiser that had the COLDEST A/C I have ever experienced in my life...so cold, that I had to turn the knob almost 25% toward heat, as I have never experienced air so cold from an auto A/C that I could not tolerate it...MAKE MY RAM LIKE THIS!!!)
Dealer checks out, says A/C at vent is 43 degrees, checks blend door and says working normal...in other words, there is nothing wrong with the truck...BUT I KNOW SOMETHING AIN'T RIGHT cuz it just ain't cooling the cabin!!!
The following day, I take it to Goodyear, and they tell me that it is possible that the R134a may be just a LITTLE low, but not low enough to trigger a warranty repair from Dodge...since this could be a major variable, it made sense to me, so they evacuated the system and replaced with the exact amount of R134 it calls for...
Now the problem is improved, but it has changed, so maybe you folks have a thought on what to check next...
The air became very cold, but it took almost 20 minutes of running before it became as cold as it used to be...so, the coldness is there, but there was a 20 minute delay, whereas before last week, it would blow cold air within 2-3 minutes...
Is there any other component that would delay the unit from making the air cold, since I am assuming that the R134 level is now correct???
Thanks...if your advice fixes this, I will have one happy wife again...as you know, when she isn't happy, Bob isn't happy...
I would be curious to know how it is after a couple of days use, when you start it for the first time in the day.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
On a related note, this seemed to get worse after my dealer had the truck to replace the washer pump. Is there anything near the pump they may have knocked loose or disconnected that might cause this?
Also, I just had front driveaxles, shocks ball joints and the passenger side wheel bearing/hub assembly changed and got new tires and an alignment. I still have a good vibration in the steering wheel and what sounds like a bad bearing in the front passenger side. I plan to check it out this weekend, but I could use any advice or suggestions I can get. Thanks everyone.
Thanks for the help. You know I was thinking along the same lines. I have heard mixed reviews on the quick boots and since I have never had to replace one myself I have no personal knowledge to fall back on. I hate to have to spend the money on new axles but I would hate it even more if I replaced the boots and still had to replace the axles further on down the road. It would be great to hear from anyone who has replaced their axles to give me an idea of whats in store for me if I decide to tackle the job myself. I am not a car genius, but I know the basics. Is this something a novice can do by themselves? Or do I have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. Once again I have heard it all when it comes to replacing the axles. I am sure that all cars are different though. Thanks again Shiftright and to anyone else with some info on this problem.
1)when i removed the spark plugs out of curiosity i noticed that the electrode and top part of the spark plug were wet in gasoline.
2)the small crack (about one CM long) in the coolant tank also leaked fluid that smelled like gasoline????
this vehicle already had a heating issue where the cylinder head was craked and warped and i had to fork out $1500 to get that sumbitch fixed.
i need to know if anybody knows if i shoulg actually fix it or trash it? i just dont want to encounter these kind of problems every summer!!!
any answer is greatly appreciated!
:sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
i called a firestone service center and they told me the idle re-learn had to be re-done. basically, i was told to turn the car over and let it idle for 20min and not touch the gas pedal. worked great after that.
now i'm not saying this is your problem, but maybe your car has an idle relearn procedure which needs to be done when the battery is removed. perhaps googling might turn up something.
did you check to see that all your hoses are on and connections are tight, specially in the area of the throttle body? perhaps your IACV (Idle Air Control Valve), generally, something that allows air to bypass the throttle vave, has a hose fallen off.
i'm sorry i can't be of more help.
After a quick engine bay assessment, there is:
1- Gas soaking everything; it's either soiled or dripping in it
2- Equal amounts of gas and oil in the crank case
3- Oil and gas covering everything (in a fine paste) from the headlights to the transmission tunnel.
I've already rebuilt the Weber carburetor and hosed everything down (Where's the original Solex when you need one?)
Why would there be so much gasoline in the oil? There's 80,000 miles on the engine. (I assume it's lead a hard life)
Thanks,
-Ryan
I'm no expert, but this doesn't sound good. Might as well pull the engine now and start taking it apart. Just remember to sign up for a HELOC before you go too far.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Hard to say what's going on....could be a cracked head and or dead cylinder. First thing we need to do is a cylinder leakdown test and see if we have a bad head gasket/cracked head/whatever.
I suppose a defective Weber could dump gas in there but really only on "crank"....gas can't just drip into the crankshaft unless the engine is cranking or running.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Dave
I think I'd have a cylinder leakdown test done to see if you have very bad valve stem seals or valve guides on the right cylinder head.
This engine does/did run, we drove it around before starting work.
The "Paste" is certainly gas and oil...smells like gas, beads like oil...isn't brake fluid, trans oil or anti-freeze etc.
One thing to note would be that the two gaskets for the upper timing chain cover were completely missing, and the Weber carb had apparently been rebuilt before I did it, with silicone being the gasket of choice.
What's HELOC?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The only time a battery is really really hurt is when it is allowed to go completely, utterly dead and is then zapped with a jump. That could do one in I think.
Also, age and heat are enemies of batteries. So if your battery went into service in 2004, you may be ready for a new one at 3+ years.
Home Equity Line of credit
I own a manual transmission Hyundai Elantra. When accelerating, the rpms shoot up to around 5k, with no increase in mph. This lasts for a few seconds, I back off the accelerator, and then slowly increase gas until mph increases. Is this a belt issue?
many thanks
if your vehicle is slightly over-voltaged, there should be regulation on the circuit board of the clock to handle the situation. if greatly over-voltaged, i think you'd experience other problems.
If this doesn't work, the clock will need to be replaced.
I doubt a high voltage is the problem. An auto will get voltage varying from 12volts up to about 15.5volts when the battery is charging significantly in cold weather. Everything in the car should be able to handle this variance. Now if your charging system is throwing significantly more than 15.5volts into your auto's electrical system, I think you are going to have more serious problems than a clock. You will have all kinds of things burning up.
1995 GMC Jimmy 4 wheel drive
4.3 liter and an automatic
I am not sure if there is an easy answer to this question, but does anyone know where I can find info on how to fix the lifter?? Or anyone out there know how??
Thanks
6 cyl 4.0L
Auto
22k
Chassis Under-carriage Lubrication
I'm a vehicle DIY maintenance novice. Just changed my own oil but wasn't sure how to perform proper lube job...
I bought Pennzoil Premium Wheel Bearing 707L Red Grease to be sure I met the manufacturer specifications in the user manual (Pennzoil fact sheet showed it being used for all wheel and chassis lubrication and meeting the specs in my user manual for chassis lubrication). I bought a grease gun and a rubber extension tube.
During my first attempt, I found maybe five or six zerks on the bottom sides of steering control arm component joints which I cleaned and gave a few pumps. I noticed the rubber covering on each (are those called bushings?) bulge a little with each pump of the grease gun. I didn't want to do more than a few pumps of the handle for fear I was "stretching" that rubber "balloon" and might damage it.
1 - Should I pump in the grease until I see the rubber cover start to expand or is that already too much if it starts to expand?
2 - Should I keep pumping until I see some old grease come out from somewhere?
3 - Should I keep pumping until I see new grease come out to indicate I've "flushed-out" the old grease?
4 - How many zerks should I be finding on the front end of a Wrangler?
5 - Are there any zerks in the rear end I need to lubricate?
6 - Are there any places I need to grease that don't have zerks and you just have to rub it on?
7 - I see zerks on top and bottom of the front wheel hubs where the axle connects to them...I squeezed some grease into those but in hind-sight wondered if those are the "wheel bearing" zerks and I shouldn't have done that.
Thanks for any help.