Hi Steve, I would give them as much information as you can. Then mention that you came across a TSB that you think may pertain to your problem and ask if they could check it out. If you have a copy, then ask them to look at it and see if they think it is your problem.
If they give you the "I'm the mechanic and I know what I am doing", then run, don't walk to another mechanic.
Half of the diagnosis is listening to the customer and seeing what information they can give you. If they aren't willing to listen to you, then they have a one track mind and are going to go one direction anyway. They may tell you that they know about the TSB and don't think it pertains to your problem, but at least they listened to you.
Most good mechanics will look at the TSB and then either tell you that it may or may not be something they think is what you need.
Another possibility is that the exhaust manifold could be warped, especially a used one. It could be checked by a machine shop and planed straight if need be.
Check the motor mounts (anything leaking on them?) and your CV joints/u-joints. Since you are feeling this in the gas pedal I am thinking this isn't related to tire balance.
Oh my. Few weeks ago - had service to my '94 Honda Accord including major tuneup and valve adjustment, front mtr mount, Oil Pan... Car sounded and drove great following service. Yesterday, engine sounded noisy - last night Check Engine Light came on. Anti-Freeze level looks OK, Oil level looks OK - I don't see signs of mixing of the two, but the top of the engine sounds noisy!!! EGR? Valves? O2? Ideas? Restarted this morning and the light is off, but the engine is still noisy. I will be cross-posting to Accord Prob+Sol (hope this is OK). Thanks for anything.
while as a former service manager, I'm not the kind of person who ever wants to hear "it was OK until you worked on it", which is hardly ever true, the shop needs and deserves first crack at the problem.
If it's something they did wrong, or a part they replaced, it should be covered by their internal warranty.
If you let another technician put his hands on it, you relieve the first shop of any liability, and whatever correction there is to your problem comes out of your pocket.
Most shops want to make their customers happy and correct a mistake - if not, go from there after you figure out what's wrong.
Yep, go right back there. Certainly there could be a connection between a recent valve adjustment and a noisy top end in the engine. That's a direct hit.
As for the engine light, that may or may not be related. Perhaps some line or hose is off?
I have a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5s with 48,000 miles. I can't see any leaking fluid from the shocks, the car doesn't bounce excessively when I shake it to test them, but when I was driving with a light load on the rear of the car (100-150 lbs, and a half tank of gasoline), it seemed like the car heaved or floated excessively over bumps on the interstate. Strangely, the car doesn't squat or dive excessively under acceleration or braking. I know a FWD car is going to handle weird with weight in the back, but there wasn't that much weight. There is an aftermarket set of rear shocks available, but none for the front yet. I'm not yet convinced that this isn't normal operation, but should I give the aftermarket rears a try?
my 04 2500HD silverado's gas mileage is bad as expected, but i am wondering if it is possible to swap out the 4.10 gears in the differential and replace them with 3.73 gears. i am sure gas mileage would increase significantly. any comments, please? thank you.
you'd get an increase at all - in fact, you'd probably lose mileage. I've had experience with this, having done gear swaps myself in several vehicles.
Your engine will labor more during initial acceleration in first and second gear with the 3.73s, using more fuel.
You're looking at (at least) an $800 job, and even if you saved 1 mile per gallon (I say "if"), you wouldn't pay yourself back during the ownership of the truck.
You didn't mention if it was four-wheel drive - if so, double that cost - many shops charge over a grand, parts included, for a gear swap, and if it isn't done by a specialty shop, be prepared for gear lash, whining, and premature wear - I was shocked and amazed to find out that most regular mechanics don't do differential gears.
thank you for responding. could you please explain about the laboring for the following reasons. first, the 4.10 is an option that was on this particular vehicle, so the regular ratio is 3.73. also the 8.1 gas and the duramax both have 3.73's as their standard rear. also, i was at a chevy dealership 2 weeks ago, and the general mgr. told me chevy got caught in the middle between the huge gas price increase this year and the disgruntled consumer. they produced a ton of trucks with the 4.10 option and now they can't sell them. this is one of the many reasons for the big year end incentives. thank you for any info or opinion that you or anyone else cares to offer.
of the dealer's preference - what that GM meant was that he screwed up and ordered a boatload of 4.10 trucks, and given that people naturally assume that a lower gear ratio equates to less fuel economy, he's stuck...fortunately for you, people's assumptions are incorrect, and your equipment is set up better.
This is the same debate as the old Ford F-250/F-350 gas motor question - the trucks came with either a 5.8 or a 7.5 (460) - people would order a 351, thinking they would get better mileage, when the opposite was actually true - to perform normal daily duties, the 351 was overworked, and the 460 was just loping along - the 351 got 3-4 mpg LESS than a 460 in that application -
The owner was disadvantaged is several ways - the 351 had less power, got worse mileage, and killed the truck on resale.
The 8.1 and Duramax have much more bottom end torque than the 6.0 - they have the reserve torque where they don't need a 4.10 gear to do normal work, except for towing at maximum capacity.
The 6.0 can use the advantage of the 4.10 gears, and when you gear down the 6.0 with a 3.73 gear, the engine has to work harder - think of it like riding a mountain bike - your legs have a set level of strength - if you drop the gears down and make it easier to pedal, it's much less work on you and you use less muscle and don't fatigue as easily - now, Lance Armstrong's legs have the power of a Duramax, so it doesn't matter WHAT gear he's in!
"this is one of the many reasons for the big year end incentives"
Your dealer is throwing you a line of bull - it isn't like there are rebates specifically for 4.10 gear-equipped trucks...
You'll get a little better mileage but it'll take a long time to pay for the work, and yes indeed, differential work is a bit specialized. You have to set it up JUST right or you'll get noise and premature wear. So if you want to do this, go to a differential specialist who has LOTS of actual hands-on, no-kidding experience.
If I were you I'd explore less expensive areas of possible improvement (no guarantees here). You could run higher tire pressures and use syhthetic oils in your engine, trans and diff. This will give you better economy during cold weather operation at least. You could dial in your front end alignment and even check with a tire specialist to see if a less rugged tire pattern might help you.
Fuel mileage is often a matter of driving technique. I can usually get better fuel mileage with a friends car than they can, not because I am brilliant but just because I've taught myself some good habits.
1. No lugging, no over-revving, just a good mid-range throttle.
2. Anticipate stops and starts by picking the right lanes and not rushing to stop lights.
3. Running a half full to full tank of gas and not letting to go all the way to empty (this also kills fuel pumps).
4. Avoid excessive idling or warm up. (that's zero miles per gallon remember).
5. run a steady speed on the highway and anticipate hill climbs beforehand.
6. don't run a higher octane fuel than necessary to "treat your car" or think you're getting more power.
7. Don't use AC unless it's really hot. "Four way AC" works great (all four windows open) much of the time, and AC really gobbles fuel.
i am sorry but i have to disagree with you. the lower gear ratio DOES equate to less gas mileage. you must work for GM. i had an 02 with a 5.3 with a high rear in it and had no problems off the line, it never "lugged", that's why it had 4 speeds in the transmission which you can control with the gas pedal; and that vehicle weighed a few pounds less than the new one with the 6 liter. you only pick certain topics to expound on, not the whole story. it is pretty obvious at 70 mph that the final drive ratio is killing the MPG because of that little telltale gauge on the dash called a tachometer. 70 mph at 2000 rpm or 70 mph at 3200 rpm. hmm....let's see , which one would i want to provide gas for, hmmmmmm.....
A Dodge Ram 2500 V8 with a 3.73 and a Ram 2500 V10 with a 4.10, the V10 got MUCH better fuel economy than the V8 with the smaller gear ratio. That said we now have a Ram 3500 V10 with a 3.55 ratio, the mileage is fairly comparable to the 2500 V10, BUT the 3500 struggles when towing. We WISH it had a 4.10, I think that the difference in mileage is not that much (1-2 mpg) but the towing difference is LEAPS and BOUNDS apart.
If you just want a highway truck and don't tow or haul anything, then yes, the smaller ratio is probably your best bet, but if you are going to tow or haul anything you want the heavier rear end.
I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4cylinder 4 door LX. Randomly the engine will shut off when slowing down.
There is no specific weather or tempature it will happen more in. Its always when my foot is on the clutch and the tachometer falls to idle. Then there is a click and the engine is off. The only way I notice its off is if I am looking at the dash (it lights up) or I will find steering harder as power steering is gone. The engine does not go roughly or make any noise. Its just off. The lights and radio are un-interupted. Honda can not find the problem.
The Honda mechanics have replaced the main relay, replaced the igniter, replaced the cars computer chip, checked the catalytic converter and found no problems. Air filter and spark plugs are new. They are stumped and I am left with a car that randomly stops working. Only other thing I can think of (that may not even be related) is that sometimes while cruising the car power, feels like you release the gas pedal, then apply it again. Like its backing off for half a second. Anybody have any ideas?
I have an '99 GMC Sonoma Ext Cab with the ZQ8 Sport Suspension. My problem: The driver's side is lower than the passenger's side. I've replaced my coil springs and both of my front & rear shocks. A co-worker of mine suggests that it may be my front sway bar. This issue also causes my driver's side door not to close properly causing it leak when raining.
Any additional suggestions that I can investige to solve this? Thanks.
Oh, yeah, always a grippy pedal for a road car. Bare metal pedals can be dangerous with wet shoes, especially smooth-soled dress shoes.
Of course, I know the aftermarket people will tell you that those cushioned pedals are much heavier but I bet your car can shoulder that burden without too much loss of performance--LOL!
The front pads are done and the rotors are down to .97 (i think).
I was told 1. the rotors can't be cut again 2. i can't replace the rotors without also replacing the hubs b/c my vehicle manuf date is 5/95 and they changed the rotor/hub assembly in 8/95 3. Just "slapping on" new pads is not recomended
but I'd want that confirmed by a Ford dealer, not some guy at Midas showing you a $900 bill for doing your brakes - confirming it is as easy as talking to a parts guy at the dealer - they'll be able to look it up for you.
The backing plates for the brake pads will dig into the rotors and in addition to trashing the rotors, you'll have NO brakes, since there isn't much friction with metal to metal contact...that is, until the fire starts.
DO NOT CONSIDER DRIVING THE VAN WITH METAL TO METAL BRAKES !!
If you're trading the van soon, putting on pads is fine as long as you don't have massive rotor warpage. In fact, if you don't have warpage and vibration, I wouldn't machine the rotors anyway, just scuff them to mate better with teh new pads.
Where are you getting the information that there was a change in hub/rotor design on the 95? The information you were given doesn't sound right.
I had to go back and re-read the posts again, but regardless, if the rotors aren't grooved or warped and brake rotor minimum thickness is .974, which is cast into the rotor. So you can confirm that. So, how accruate was the measurement?
I own a 1990 Bronco II. I need to replace the rear axle bearing seal due to a leak and was told I also must replace the bearing which is working just fine. Can I replace only the bearing seal, and most importantly, can I pull it without a special tool. what do you recommend? Thanks! Jeff
Autospecialities is a former TRW brand that was picked up by Universal Automotive Industries out of Chicago. The biggest shareholder is the Wanxiang Group (China). Wanxiang does a lot of business with Visteon, the Ford spin-off.
Raybestos and Bendix are a bit harder to net search - it seems that their rotor and brake pad lines are manufactured by smaller companies that licensed or bought the use of the names from the original companies.
In a few more years we'll be talking about Chinese brands the same way we now talk about formerly maligned Japanese brands.
I would have figured a Wan Look Materials Co. LTD. beer cooler :-D
raybestos and bendix are merger meat, but they are still owned by old-line parts companies from the US. I forget who is over raybestos now... some google chasing shows that dana corporation owns 'em, and dana is solid... and bendix is part of the honeywell constellation (formerly allied-signal, who also bought honeywell and took the name.) wagner is part of federal-mogul.
brake parts companies that have been around longer than your lunchmeat are all caught up in the wonderful world of asbestos lawsuits, so they were changing hands as outfits figured they could avoid the hassles and get the bucks... until they found out what kind of lawyers were behind the suits, and the musical chairs stopped.
stick with one of the three brands I mentioned above, buy the premium or one-notch-down products that fit your application, and barring lousy installation, you should be satisfied.
and I suppose Wan Look coolers will last at least one party season, too....
Don't believe everything you've been told. It's a basic RWD solid axle.
Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal Ford Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1990 Repair Guide REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Drain the rear axle lubricant.
For all axles except 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio: Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt and differential pinion shaft. The pinion gears may be left in place. Once the axle shafts are removed, reinstall the pinion shaft and lock bolt.
For 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles: Remove the pinion shaft lock bolt. Place a hand behind the differential case and push out the pinion shaft until the step contacts the ring gear.
Remove the C-lockwasher from the axle shafts. Remove the axle shafts from the housing. If the seals and/or bearing are not being replaced, be careful not to damage the seals with the axle shaft splines upon removal. Use an appropriate pry bar to remove the axle shaft seal from the housing.
To install:
If removed, lubricate the new bearing with rear axle lubricant and install the bearing into the housing bore. Apply Multi-Purpose Long-Life Lubricant, C1AZ-19590-B or equivalent, between the lips of the axle shaft seal. Install a new axle shaft seal.
To permit axle shaft installation on 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles, make sure the differential pinion shaft contacts the ring gear before performing Step 11.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into the axle housing, making sure not to damage the oil seal. Start the splines into the side gear and push firmly until the button end of the axle shaft can be seen in the differential case. Install the C-lockwasher on the end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage the C-lockwasher seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear. Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and pinion gears, aligning the hole in the shaft with the lock screw hole. Install the lock bolt and tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (21-29Nm). Clean the gasket mounting surface on the rear axle housing and cover. Apply a continuous bead of Silicone Rubber Sealant ESE-M4G195-A or equivalent to the carrier casting face. Install the cover and tighten the retaining bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (20-34Nm). The cover assembly must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone sealant. Add lubricant until it is 1/4 in. (6mm) below the bottom of the filler hole in the running position. Install the filler plug and tighten to 15-30 ft. lbs. (20-41Nm).
Hi all, this group was recommended - I hope you can help me out!
After 15 minutes or so, the engine gets very rough and will stall. The time used to be 30+ minutes and is getting shorter! The engine needs to cool down to run again. Installed new fuel filter; 38PSI fuel pressure at filter; new cap and rotor; plugs look good.
After getting stuck on the road, cleaning the throttle plate area helped but only short-term.
Will try to get to AutoZone to see if I can get a diagnostic (didn't make it two days ago and walked home).
Anybody see this engine problem before? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
one is factory s/c 3800 Series 2 S/C -compression ratio 8.5 to 1 - Max boost 7 to 9 PSI - requires 91 octane
one is just a 3800 Series 2 - compression ratio 10 to 1 -requires 87 octane
I have some questions about these two 1. Why does GM lower the compression ratio to 8.5 on the supercharged variant of this engine?
2. Wouldn't the supercharged engine produce more power if they left the compression alone while adding the s/c?
Also, should one of these engines have a longer expected life, all other things being equal (driving style, maintenance etc...)
3. It is my understanding that the supercharger is belt driven and actually saps engine power (just like an a/c compressor), and that when the extra air isn't being used it is routed through a bypass. Isn't this very inefficient? Won't this cause the non supercharged engine to perform better when the boost is being bypassed in the s/c engine ?
4. The owners manual said that 87 octane could be used in a pinch (just until you find premium again) for the s/c engine. I have used it at times and haven't noticed any difference in performance, but I have noticed that fuel economy is about 1-2 MPG better with REGULAR. I am assuming that the knock sensor detuned the engine and made it more effiecient,
My question is , will this damage anything long term?
smells like a bum sensor has finally gone away, instead of being iffy. pretty good likelihood it will show up in the computer scan. seems to me that the warmup is the key... when the temp sensor tells the computer to stop playing conservative, get off the baseline curves, and actually RUN the ENGINE based on exactly what the sensors are saying, you fall off the edge of the earth.
when I had a ranger that chugged to a pitiful stop in cold weather as soon as the temp needle started to move, the fix was an oxygen sensor. YMMV.
remember that the code scanners give you a code that usually indicates the REGION of the engine in which there is an issue. if it did otherwise, instead of E1782 or similar codes, it would say, "replace part 1234NG9876, frammistan at flummox valve, list $395.78 in 1999." just buying ten parts based on two code numbers might STILL not fix the issue, it could be an adjustment. that's where manuals and mechanics remain important, chasing a diagnostic chart to find out exactly what is screwed up.
good luck with it. if you get the codes, post 'em on the scanner topic, and you will probably get directed help from some of the mechanics that haunt these parts.
Help me think through the logic of this. I'm nonplussed.
The car's a '94 Honda Accord with about 170k mi. I started it up (to drive it to the detailer prior to selling it - a charming irony I thought) and there was no power steering.
Iif there were any symptoms leading up to this, they were very subtle. There was no progressive loss of boost, there's no fluid under the car, no visible hose or belt problems but then again there's too much under the hood for my meager mechanical skills. I used to do tune-ups when cars were simple. I don't touch them anymore.
I have a gas station very close to the house which I'd rather not take it to if I can avoid it, a Honda dealer about 25 miles in one direction and a highly recommended mechanic the same distance in the other direction.
My question is really, can I drive it 25 miles? If not, I'm thinking about adding a tow or flatbed charge to whatever other costs it will incur.
Maybe the local gas station can tell me whether it's major or minor (a belt after all); if it's minor let them do it, if it's major, haul it from there to the good mechanic...
Surely you don't have to be a 20 year master tech to determine if the belt is still in place at the power steering pump.
It could be several things, from as simple as a messed up check valve in the pump, a bad pump, or a blockage in one of the lines.
Check the fluid in the pump, making sure it's good - if the fluid's good and the belt is in place, you need to have it towed - I never recommend taking ANYTHING to a gas station, except in an emergency - a private garage is a much better option. Call a friend or co-worker to see who they'd recommend that is close, reasonable, and honest.
The power steering fluid's very low. Duh. I guess I was too into the panic mode to take a good look at things. I'll get some fluid and see what happens. Think it will work to just add it, or will the system need to be bled?
The gas gauge on my 2002 Z28 typically goes from more than F to less than E when using up a full tank of gas. Now it goes from more than F to about 3/8 tank, i.e., indicates 3/8 tank of gas when the tank is really virtually empty. What's up?
Comments
I would give them as much information as you can.
Then mention that you came across a TSB that you think may pertain to your problem and ask if they could check it out. If you have a copy, then ask them to look at it and see if they think it is your problem.
If they give you the "I'm the mechanic and I know what I am doing", then run, don't walk to another mechanic.
Half of the diagnosis is listening to the customer and seeing what information they can give you. If they aren't willing to listen to you, then they have a one track mind and are going to go one direction anyway.
They may tell you that they know about the TSB and don't think it pertains to your problem, but at least they listened to you.
Most good mechanics will look at the TSB and then either tell you that it may or may not be something they think is what you need.
If it's something they did wrong, or a part they replaced, it should be covered by their internal warranty.
If you let another technician put his hands on it, you relieve the first shop of any liability, and whatever correction there is to your problem comes out of your pocket.
Most shops want to make their customers happy and correct a mistake - if not, go from there after you figure out what's wrong.
As for the engine light, that may or may not be related. Perhaps some line or hose is off?
Not sure I'd drive the car, either.
Your engine will labor more during initial acceleration in first and second gear with the 3.73s, using more fuel.
You're looking at (at least) an $800 job, and even if you saved 1 mile per gallon (I say "if"), you wouldn't pay yourself back during the ownership of the truck.
You didn't mention if it was four-wheel drive - if so, double that cost - many shops charge over a grand, parts included, for a gear swap, and if it isn't done by a specialty shop, be prepared for gear lash, whining, and premature wear - I was shocked and amazed to find out that most regular mechanics don't do differential gears.
This is the same debate as the old Ford F-250/F-350 gas motor question - the trucks came with either a 5.8 or a 7.5 (460) - people would order a 351, thinking they would get better mileage, when the opposite was actually true - to perform normal daily duties, the 351 was overworked, and the 460 was just loping along - the 351 got 3-4 mpg LESS than a 460 in that application -
The owner was disadvantaged is several ways - the 351 had less power, got worse mileage, and killed the truck on resale.
The 8.1 and Duramax have much more bottom end torque than the 6.0 - they have the reserve torque where they don't need a 4.10 gear to do normal work, except for towing at maximum capacity.
The 6.0 can use the advantage of the 4.10 gears, and when you gear down the 6.0 with a 3.73 gear, the engine has to work harder - think of it like riding a mountain bike - your legs have a set level of strength - if you drop the gears down and make it easier to pedal, it's much less work on you and you use less muscle and don't fatigue as easily - now, Lance Armstrong's legs have the power of a Duramax, so it doesn't matter WHAT gear he's in!
"this is one of the many reasons for the big year end incentives"
Your dealer is throwing you a line of bull - it isn't like there are rebates specifically for 4.10 gear-equipped trucks...
If I were you I'd explore less expensive areas of possible improvement (no guarantees here). You could run higher tire pressures and use syhthetic oils in your engine, trans and diff. This will give you better economy during cold weather operation at least. You could dial in your front end alignment and even check with a tire specialist to see if a less rugged tire pattern might help you.
Fuel mileage is often a matter of driving technique. I can usually get better fuel mileage with a friends car than they can, not because I am brilliant but just because I've taught myself some good habits.
1. No lugging, no over-revving, just a good mid-range throttle.
2. Anticipate stops and starts by picking the right lanes and not rushing to stop lights.
3. Running a half full to full tank of gas and not letting to go all the way to empty (this also kills fuel pumps).
4. Avoid excessive idling or warm up. (that's zero miles per gallon remember).
5. run a steady speed on the highway and anticipate hill climbs beforehand.
6. don't run a higher octane fuel than necessary to "treat your car" or think you're getting more power.
7. Don't use AC unless it's really hot. "Four way AC" works great (all four windows open) much of the time, and AC really gobbles fuel.
Hope this helps.
If you just want a highway truck and don't tow or haul anything, then yes, the smaller ratio is probably your best bet, but if you are going to tow or haul anything you want the heavier rear end.
"you must work for GM"
You obviously haven't read my profile - I work AGAINST GM, not FOR them...
I do 20 GM lemon law and breach of warranty cases per week - that's the caseload for the one attorney I work for who deals solely with GM.
We are presuming the following:
Your speed is 55 mph, your tires are 16", your transmission has an overdrive gear ratio of .67 (overdrives vary from about .80 to .63 or so).
With a 4.10 your rpm will be 3174
With a 3.73 your rpm will be 2888
This is roughly a 9% drop in rpm so in totally ideal circumstance we might roughly and blindly guess you'd get 9% better fuel mileage.
I really don't think it's quite that simple but it does show that more than 9% is unlikely. So you're looking at maybe 1 to 1.5 mpg better?
So then, what's that worth to you?
There is no specific weather or tempature it will happen more in. Its always when my foot is on the clutch and the tachometer falls to idle. Then there is a click and the engine is off. The only way I notice its off is if I am looking at the dash (it lights up) or I will find steering harder as power steering is gone. The engine does not go roughly or make any noise. Its just off. The lights and radio are un-interupted. Honda can not find the problem.
The Honda mechanics have replaced the main relay, replaced the igniter, replaced the cars computer chip, checked the catalytic converter and found no problems. Air filter and spark plugs are new. They are stumped and I am left with a car that randomly stops working. Only other thing I can think of (that may not even be related) is that sometimes while cruising the car power, feels like you release the gas pedal, then apply it again. Like its backing off for half a second. Anybody have any ideas?
Any recommendations?
Should the pedal cover surface be smooth or somewhat rough (to avoid slip off)?
Thanks,
Joe.
Any additional suggestions that I can investige to solve this? Thanks.
Of course, I know the aftermarket people will tell you that those cushioned pedals are much heavier but I bet your car can shoulder that burden without too much loss of performance--LOL!
The front pads are done and the rotors are down to .97 (i think).
I was told
1. the rotors can't be cut again
2. i can't replace the rotors without also replacing the hubs b/c my vehicle manuf date is 5/95 and they changed the rotor/hub assembly in 8/95
3. Just "slapping on" new pads is not recomended
Any advice on what to do for a quick fix?
I'm sure you do need to replace the rotors and pads, but another $500-600 for wheel bearings/hub assemblies looks VERY suspicious.
I'm still tempted to just slap on some new pads to get a couple months out of the vehicle.
Also:
What happens if i keep driving without new pads (there is currently no friction material).
Do i get any warning or do the brakes just fail?
DO NOT CONSIDER DRIVING THE VAN WITH METAL TO METAL BRAKES !!
If you're trading the van soon, putting on pads is fine as long as you don't have massive rotor warpage. In fact, if you don't have warpage and vibration, I wouldn't machine the rotors anyway, just scuff them to mate better with teh new pads.
The information you were given doesn't sound right.
I had to go back and re-read the posts again, but regardless, if the rotors aren't grooved or warped and brake rotor minimum thickness is .974, which is cast into the rotor. So you can confirm that.
So, how accruate was the measurement?
If it is, then it sounds like the torque converter control solenoid is having problems.
It read .0097 or .097 or somthin like that. He said that resurfacing would bring them down below the .95 throw out spec.
Also, at local auto parts stores they quote
Korean (Asian) rotors for $18 each
or
Autospecialtys for
$50 each
Does anyone here have experience with Korean(cheap) rotors. Do they perform any differently than American rotors.
Thanks to all who responded
Cheap rotors, usually made in China or Taiwan tend to warp quicker because of cheaper materials and casting procedures.
Raybestos and Bendix are a bit harder to net search - it seems that their rotor and brake pad lines are manufactured by smaller companies that licensed or bought the use of the names from the original companies.
In a few more years we'll be talking about Chinese brands the same way we now talk about formerly maligned Japanese brands.
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
raybestos and bendix are merger meat, but they are still owned by old-line parts companies from the US. I forget who is over raybestos now... some google chasing shows that dana corporation owns 'em, and dana is solid... and bendix is part of the honeywell constellation (formerly allied-signal, who also bought honeywell and took the name.) wagner is part of federal-mogul.
brake parts companies that have been around longer than your lunchmeat are all caught up in the wonderful world of asbestos lawsuits, so they were changing hands as outfits figured they could avoid the hassles and get the bucks... until they found out what kind of lawyers were behind the suits, and the musical chairs stopped.
stick with one of the three brands I mentioned above, buy the premium or one-notch-down products that fit your application, and barring lousy installation, you should be satisfied.
and I suppose Wan Look coolers will last at least one party season, too....
Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal
Ford Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1990 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the rear wheels and brake drums.
Drain the rear axle lubricant.
For all axles except 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio:
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt and differential pinion shaft.
The pinion gears may be left in place. Once the axle shafts are removed, reinstall the pinion shaft and lock bolt.
For 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles:
Remove the pinion shaft lock bolt. Place a hand behind the differential case and push out the pinion shaft until the step contacts the ring gear.
Remove the C-lockwasher from the axle shafts.
Remove the axle shafts from the housing. If the seals and/or bearing are not being replaced, be careful not to damage the seals with the axle shaft splines upon removal.
Use an appropriate pry bar to remove the axle shaft seal from the housing.
To install:
If removed, lubricate the new bearing with rear axle lubricant and install the bearing into the housing bore.
Apply Multi-Purpose Long-Life Lubricant, C1AZ-19590-B or equivalent, between the lips of the axle shaft seal.
Install a new axle shaft seal.
To permit axle shaft installation on 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles, make sure the differential pinion shaft contacts the ring gear before performing Step 11.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into the axle housing, making sure not to damage the oil seal. Start the splines into the side gear and push firmly until the button end of the axle shaft can be seen in the differential case.
Install the C-lockwasher on the end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage the C-lockwasher seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear.
Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and pinion gears, aligning the hole in the shaft with the lock screw hole. Install the lock bolt and tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (21-29Nm).
Clean the gasket mounting surface on the rear axle housing and cover. Apply a continuous bead of Silicone Rubber Sealant ESE-M4G195-A or equivalent to the carrier casting face.
Install the cover and tighten the retaining bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (20-34Nm).
The cover assembly must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone sealant.
Add lubricant until it is 1/4 in. (6mm) below the bottom of the filler hole in the running position.
Install the filler plug and tighten to 15-30 ft. lbs. (20-41Nm).
After 15 minutes or so, the engine gets very rough and will stall. The time used to be 30+ minutes and is getting shorter! The engine needs to cool down to run again. Installed new fuel filter; 38PSI fuel pressure at filter; new cap and rotor; plugs look good.
After getting stuck on the road, cleaning the throttle plate area helped but only short-term.
Will try to get to AutoZone to see if I can get a diagnostic (didn't make it two days ago and walked home).
Anybody see this engine problem before? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
John
ALCAN--any chance of bobbling the spider gears and dropping them when you do this, like on old GM diffs?
one is factory s/c 3800 Series 2 S/C
-compression ratio 8.5 to 1
- Max boost 7 to 9 PSI
- requires 91 octane
one is just a 3800 Series 2
- compression ratio 10 to 1
-requires 87 octane
I have some questions about these two
1. Why does GM lower the compression ratio to 8.5 on the supercharged variant of this engine?
2. Wouldn't the supercharged engine produce more power if they left the compression alone while adding the s/c?
Also, should one of these engines have a longer expected life, all other things being equal (driving style, maintenance etc...)
3. It is my understanding that the supercharger is belt driven and actually saps engine power (just like an a/c compressor), and that when the extra air isn't being used it is routed through a bypass.
Isn't this very inefficient?
Won't this cause the non supercharged engine to perform better when the boost is being bypassed in the s/c engine ?
4. The owners manual said that 87 octane could be used in a pinch (just until you find premium again) for the s/c engine.
I have used it at times and haven't noticed any difference in performance, but I have noticed that fuel economy is about 1-2 MPG better with REGULAR. I am assuming that the knock sensor detuned the engine and made it more effiecient,
My question is , will this damage anything long term?
when I had a ranger that chugged to a pitiful stop in cold weather as soon as the temp needle started to move, the fix was an oxygen sensor. YMMV.
remember that the code scanners give you a code that usually indicates the REGION of the engine in which there is an issue. if it did otherwise, instead of E1782 or similar codes, it would say, "replace part 1234NG9876, frammistan at flummox valve, list $395.78 in 1999." just buying ten parts based on two code numbers might STILL not fix the issue, it could be an adjustment. that's where manuals and mechanics remain important, chasing a diagnostic chart to find out exactly what is screwed up.
good luck with it. if you get the codes, post 'em on the scanner topic, and you will probably get directed help from some of the mechanics that haunt these parts.
The car's a '94 Honda Accord with about 170k mi. I started it up (to drive it to the detailer prior to selling it - a charming irony I thought) and there was no power steering.
Iif there were any symptoms leading up to this, they were very subtle. There was no progressive loss of boost, there's no fluid under the car, no visible hose or belt problems but then again there's too much under the hood for my meager mechanical skills. I used to do tune-ups when cars were simple. I don't touch them anymore.
I have a gas station very close to the house which I'd rather not take it to if I can avoid it, a Honda dealer about 25 miles in one direction and a highly recommended mechanic the same distance in the other direction.
My question is really, can I drive it 25 miles? If not, I'm thinking about adding a tow or flatbed charge to whatever other costs it will incur.
Maybe the local gas station can tell me whether it's major or minor (a belt after all); if it's minor let them do it, if it's major, haul it from there to the good mechanic...
Waddya all think?
It could be several things, from as simple as a messed up check valve in the pump, a bad pump, or a blockage in one of the lines.
Check the fluid in the pump, making sure it's good - if the fluid's good and the belt is in place, you need to have it towed - I never recommend taking ANYTHING to a gas station, except in an emergency - a private garage is a much better option. Call a friend or co-worker to see who they'd recommend that is close, reasonable, and honest.
If it is morning sickness, then eventually it will get worse and will require replacement of the rack & pinion unit.