When I shut my car off, I hear the AC hissing, a friend has told me that it's just the AC equalizing (from hi pressure to lo pressure, thru some valve) other cars haven't been as noisy as my jeep is, is this normal, or indicative of something else?
I have a new Quest 2004 van that had injector #1 fail at 3600 miles and so into the shop it went. After replacing injector #1, they were test driving the vehicle and injector #5 failed. I am very non-mechanical, but I could accept that an injector might have a mfg. problem and fail early on in its life. I would assume, however, that this would be a relatively rare problem, especially since injector failure does not seem to be an endemic issue with other 2004 Quest owners. So, since a seocnd injector failed as well, what might be causing them to go bad? Is there a larger problem lurking in the vehicle, and failing injectors are just the symptom of other issues?
I had just bought this 94 626 2.5L and it has a misfire only when the engine is cold, when it gets warmed up it goes away. I did a compression check on it and cyl#3 has 0 p.s.i when cold and normal compression when warm What the hell could it be???
Well what's "failing" is really the question--electrical failure of the plug/harness or is the mechanical part of the injector actually clogging up or?????
Depends on whether they "solved" the problem by replacing the injector itself (rust, clogging, bad seal) or the harness (bad wiring).
I had several aftermarket cruise control systems installed for the sales department - this was in Medford, OR in '97-98, and the local stereo/alarm shop did the install, it usually ran $200-250.
The stalk they install doesn't match the rest of the switches and stalks, so be prepared for that.
I crushed my right ankle playing racquetball while in the Air Force (broken in 9 places), though, so I won't own a car without cruise control - I'd be installing it if it didn't have it.
My bravda will run for a whiklle the ask like it is not getting any fuel, die and will not start. When i put fuel in it directly it will start and run for a few minutes and die again. What could be causing this to happen.
I think so, and probably has one of those bowtie filters attached to it.
but you know it would take an amazing amount of gunk to completely stop up an in-line or spin on fuel filter. But the ones in the tank, if this vehicle has one, can collapse and/or crud up. Jeeps like to do that a lot.
I OWN A 1996 CADILLAC ELDERADO ETC WITH 63000MI.THE ENGINE STARTS FINE AFTER AN OVERNIGHT LAYOVER, THE PROBLEM IS AFTER DRIVING THE CAR APPROX 20MINUTES OR MORE, AND SHUTING THE CAR OFF, THEN TRYING TO RESTART AFTER 30MINUTES OR MORE THE ENGINE IS HARD TO START, SOMETIMES TAKES 5 SECONDS OR MORE. IT CRANKS FAST BUT HARD TO START. IT HAS A NEW BATTERY, AND NEW SPARK PLUGS. I CONTACTED A CADDY DEALER,THEY REPLIED THAT A DEFECTIVE SENSOR IN THE FUEL TANK COULD BE THE PROBLEM.I AM GOING TO REPLACE THE IGNITION WIRES, THEY SEEM TO BE ORIGINAL THIS IS THE NORTHSTAR ENGINE.ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED. CHRY300
Okay, first we need for you to shut off your CAPS LOCK as this is hard to read and is generally considered not good etiquette in online forums. Thanks!
Sounds like you have what we call a "heat-soak" problem, which is a fancy way of saying that something in your engine doesn't like it when it warms up and it starts to fail. This could be electrical or fuel related. Given that it DOES start after a bit, I am leaning toward a fuel problem or fuel sensor rather than ignition. I think spark plug wires, plugs, etc. are a waste of money unless you are do for them anyway.
So I think your dealer is on the right track although I don't know what's in your fuel tank that's going to cause this kind of heat-soak issue.
Have you tried flooring the gas pedal and keeping it there when you start it warm? If that works, I'd be guessing you are getting too rich of a fuel enrichment with a warm engine.
Well, your symptoms are reversed from the 'usual'. 'Usually' Cadillacs are hard to start at first, then will start with no problem after than.
But, you do say you have problems after waiting for 30 minutes or so.
Anyway, your problem is probably the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This is under the Plastic/Chromelooking cover on the top of the motor. It on the fuel rail, I think before the first injector. It has a sensor and a vacumn hose on it. Start the car and pull the vacumn hose off. If any fuel at all leaks out, you need to replace it. Aftermarket, about $70.
What happens is, when stopped, fuel under pressure leaks into the vacumn line and this is pulled into the intake when being restarted, causing an overly rich mixture - hard starts. You probably can see a puff of smoke when it does start.
Your caddy dealer is just trying to get into your pocket. I don't know of a 'sensor' in the fuel tank. Now the fuel pump is in there. If it is going out, the dealer should be able to put a pressure gauge onto a valve that is also on the fuel rail and see low fuel pressure - both with key on before starting and after start and running. If there is low fuel pressure, first change the fuel filter - if this does not correct, then a fuel pump will probably be needed. Which is inside the fuel tank, and the pump and fuel gauge meter are usually both replaced.
I bought an 86 civic recently had to overhaul the entire cooling system - it had several problems. Bad cooling fan motor, bad cooling fan motor switch, leaking water pump, clogged radiator... Ugh. Anyway, the fan on the INSIDE of the radiator in the engine bay on MY car is the cooling fan motor that is triggered by the coolant temp switch located at the base of the radiator. The fan on the outside of the radiator (more "in front" of the car) is the A/C fan - it goes on when you turn the A/C on. During normal driving with the A/C off, the cooling fan motor only goes on when the coolant temp sensor detects that the cooled fluid leaving your radiator and heading into your engine is above... I think the exact temp is something like 190 degrees? It could be 200. Normal operating temp for the car is 180-200. Anyway, if the radiator is working fine, then the fan usually only kicks on when you're not moving. Mine is finally all working correctly and I do not hear the fan running when I shut the engine off. If you have more questions, I may have gone through the answer myself recently and if not, I did a heck of a lot of research in the process. Also installed the fan motor, radiator, new hoses, etc myself. Elissa
I bought a "Haynes Repair Manual" for the Legacy Outback (mine is a 1997) because I am having problems with the windshield washer pump. The resovior is full but no fluid is expelled from the nozzles on either side for the front windshield. Is there a seperate fuse for the washer pump or does it share the wiper fuse? Any thing else that you can think of that would help me isolate or fix the problem? Thanks.
I'm having a stalling problem. It starts up fine in the morning but started cutting out at highway speeds, now doing it more often. Got a check engine light flash code of 32 which indicates the EGR valve but the '95 Cherokee doesn't have an EGR valve. Anybody know what the 32 code means on a '95 Cherokee or what replaced the EGR valve on that model?
I've got a '99 Pontiac Montana. Lately, not always but usually, the ABS and Traction Control System lights on my dashboard are coming on. When they come on, they stay on for the duration. Also, when pressing the brake pedal, the turn signal indicators on the dash start to glow slightly, then get brighter the longer the brakes are pressed. And, when using the blinker and then braking, the blinker will speed up, then slow down to it's normal speed. The van itself seems to be performing as normal. We've checked all the bulbs and fuses that we thought might affect this, but nothing was burnt. In a possibly related note, we'd had a problem with the "check temperature" light coming on for no reason about 1 1/2 years ago, but the local shop just disconnected the sensor on that, since the temp gauge always showed normal. Has this been encountered by anyone else? I'd be grateful for any advice.
What simple test can i do to verify that my 2000 Forester's AWD is working properly?
Recently I jacked my front wheels off the ground to check for a warped brake rotor. The parking brake on the rear wheels was locked. I started the engine and put it into drive. The front wheels spun...but (perhaps fortunately) the rear did not. Later I wondered why i didn't stall the engine or lurch forward if the AWD was working. Comment?
For some reason, I just can help but think you must be joking so I'll pattern my response accordingly!
Yeah, I imagine that it was fortunate your rear wheels did not move. At idle, there is not going to be enough torque to overcome the parking brake if it is working properly, but that does not mean torque is not being applied. The engine won't stall for similar reasons that it does not stall when you stop at a light....
If you want to see if all 4 wheels are powered, just put the whole car on jack stands and put it into drive again (without a parking brake). I'm sure you'll see them all spinning. Or, you can just high-center it in some snow for a similar effect. Ah! If you want to have some real fun, do what you did last time but then stomp on the accelerator. That should get you moving. ;-)
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I glanced at the topics and don't see this very basic one. Should you let your car "warm up" by letting it idle for 5-10 minutes or more? A lot of my neighbors do this. None of their vehicles are more than maybe 12-15 yrs old, some are newer, and this is southern California. My neighbor insists this is essential to keep the engine in shape (I think she has a '92), the bit about the oil circulating through the engine. But I thought that was back in the day, and that today's cars don't require that - this is technical stuff I don't know much about, but because of the synthetic oils, or ? I remember this was the accepted wisdom up to the late 70's or so. So the question is, what's best for the car? (Leaving aside the impact on the environment.) Thanks!
Causes wear on the engine. Engine hours = miles in reality. Here in Alaska we idle our engines for 5-10 mins but that's not for the car's sake its to get the heater going a little bit so we don't freeze when we hit the seat. Most times 30 secs to 1 min is sufficient for the oil to get moving, especially in So. CA.
most industry folks (including this one) agree that you should only warm the vehicle up until the oil pressure is at a normal level - if you have an oil pressure gauge, as soon as it gets in the middle, you can take off.
Excessive idling can cause serious carbon build up in the heads, increased emissions, spark knock when accelerating, and ultimately shortens engine life.
AFter the engine is started, the oil is hot and circulating quickly. A company checked into oil-based heats, instead of hot water, for the interior. A college roomie had one set up by the company. It gave heat in Cleveland area quickly compared to the standard heater. Obviously it hasn't caught on.
In old days with chokes, warmup meant the extra rich mixture had leaned slightly so you didn't damage the walls as much with the washdown by the extra gasoline that caused metal on metal friction. Now the computer control has the mixture leaned out and the oil can keep the walls lubed.
I had a 67 Mustang that I tore down at 30K due to a seizing problem. Found the ridges were alread definite where the walls had worn due to gasoline washing away the oil when cold with a rich mixture.
I've have a 1990 bonneville 3.8 efi will not restart when it's been driven more than 3 or 4 miles without cooling down for a 45 mins. I have replaced [coil,ignition module,o2 sensor,plugs wires,fuel filter,fuel regulator,idle air control,egr valve,had tps checked].anyone else had this problem? it kind of bogs and dies if I leave it idle and then try to drive when it's hot.
It would probably cost you as much to diagnose it as to replace it, and it sure sounds like this is the problem. (but, sigh, you never really know do you?)
I had just bought this 94 626 2.5L and it has a misfire only when the engine is cold, when it gets warmed up it goes away. I did a compression check on it and cyl#3 has 0 p.s.i when cold and normal compression when warm What the hell could it be???
i bought 4 new tires less than a year ago, lately one cannot maintain its pressure, after being filled to 35 (cold) less than a week later it is under 30 while the other tires are still at 35.......................... assuming I haven't picked up a nail or something, how do i resolve this issue??
It's probably a tire bead leak. Easy to check: remove the wheel, lay it flat, pour water all around the rim/tire joint and look for bubbles. If it's a bead leak the tire has to be removed, rim sealing surface cleaned with a wire brush and sandpaper, then a coat of bead sealer brushed on before the tire's re-installed. Before all of this though, use the spit-on-the-finger method of making sure the valve's not leaking.
Check the valve stem with some liquid dishwashing soap in water. Check the core where the air goes in. I had one where the valve core was leaking. It wasn't completely tight.
I had one leak at the rubber part of the valve stem where it meets the rim -- when I didn't have new stews installed at 60K with new Michelins.
I've actually checked the bead area with a sponge and Dawn in water--kind of richer than you'd use for washing dishes. Just dab along the bead. I've also checked the tread by dabbing water on it then moving the car a few inches and dabbing water on the next area. Found the brad that was causing the leak!!! The inner bead would be a bear to reach unless it's on the front and you can turn the wheel sharply.
I just bought a 2001 Pontiac Grand AM SE, with approx. 45,000 miles on it. It was on a Fri. We just drove it around town and that's it. The next day, Sat., we drove it all day. While in the midst of our journey, the car dies. We let it sit about 1 min. and it started up. About 5 miles or so later, it dies again, 1st slowing down to a stop light and next a stop sign. Again, 5 miles later, it dies again while driving. Let it sit, it starts. No warning dash lights or anything came on. you guessed it, 5 miles or so down the road and um... it dies again, this is the 5th time dying in a 1 hour span. On the way back to the car lot, it dies on the interstate, let it sit about 2 seconds, it starts. One last time before the car lot, it does it again. This is about 7-8 times in a 2 hour pd.
The car is under warranty, but the guys said they would fix it no matter what. One week later, it's at the Pontiac dealership (upon delivery from the shade tree mechanic at the car lot) with no visible codes from the computer scanner.
I told them they have to drive it more than just the mechanic driving it home overnight and "burning" up my mileage. It has to be driven "all day". But, the Pontiac dealership said they can't find any problems and could not get the car to replicate the problem. To make my long story short, could it be a clogged fuel filter or is it the fuel pump? I say put a new filter and pump on it instead of sitting on the hands and make a start somewhere. Atleast there would be a new pump on it if that isn't the problem.
We haven't even put 100 miles on it yet, the mechanics put more miles on it than us. :-( Please help anyone.
Probably a sticking exhaust valve. You might try a healthy dose of "upper cylinder lubricant" and a good high speed run but otherwise you'll have to pull the head and fix that bad valve guide. You could probably take the valve cover off the cold engine and rotate it by hand and see something.
I was on my way to memorial on thursday. (The union Iron Workers whos plane went down in Alaska and still havent been found yet. Hear about it?) And the Celica died on the Freeway, lost all power! Now it just turns over. Thought it was the timing belt, its ok!
The car has been thrusting forward lately like im stabbing the gas pedel.
1990 Celica st
Any suggestions Thx, Dave Iron Workers Local 118 Sacramento Ca
Sounds a lot like a fuel pump - they fail intermittently, sometimes over several weeks, before they fail completely. It could also be a PCM problem, or a PCM connection problem.
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
Sounds a lot like a fuel pump - they fail intermittently, sometimes over several weeks, before they fail completely. It could also be a PCM problem, or a PCM connection problem.
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
That's the first place I would go.
And just a word about the whole picture - you want them to drive it all day, but you don't want them to put any miles on it?? You simply can't have it both ways - they either diagnose it and fix it, or they don't.
I read the Anchorage paper so knew about the missing plane, but never hear anything about the occupants. A float plane disappeared in Cook Inlet yesterday and now that hunting season is here, a few more will go down. Sorry for your loss - flying up there can get dicey.
On your Celica, maybe a fuel filter that's fallen apart if the pump's ok?
Any help appreciated since I know zip about cars... Have a 2000 Lincoln LS (V8) and the engine light has just come on. Car seems to be mis-firing, rough acceleration -- a sort of lurching feeling. Lincoln's manual suggested higher-octane (91) fuel which has slightly mitigated the problem. But it's still apparent when I have to accelerate. The problem started after a recent long, high-speed, drive. I've been told it might be everything from old spark plugs -- I have 70,000 on the car and don't believe they've ever been changed -- to a catalytic converter problem. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealership ($$$). Thanks
Comments
When I shut my car off, I hear the AC hissing, a friend has told me that it's just the AC equalizing (from hi pressure to lo pressure, thru some valve) other cars haven't been as noisy as my jeep is, is this normal, or indicative of something else?
thanks in advance
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Depends on whether they "solved" the problem by replacing the injector itself (rust, clogging, bad seal) or the harness (bad wiring).
I am buying a car this weekend, great deal but no cruise control. How hard and how expensive is it to put cruise in? (It's a 2000 Dodge Neon.)
The stalk they install doesn't match the rest of the switches and stalks, so be prepared for that.
I crushed my right ankle playing racquetball while in the Air Force (broken in 9 places), though, so I won't own a car without cruise control - I'd be installing it if it didn't have it.
but you know it would take an amazing amount of gunk to completely stop up an in-line or spin on fuel filter. But the ones in the tank, if this vehicle has one, can collapse and/or crud up. Jeeps like to do that a lot.
Sounds like you have what we call a "heat-soak" problem, which is a fancy way of saying that something in your engine doesn't like it when it warms up and it starts to fail. This could be electrical or fuel related. Given that it DOES start after a bit, I am leaning toward a fuel problem or fuel sensor rather than ignition. I think spark plug wires, plugs, etc. are a waste of money unless you are do for them anyway.
So I think your dealer is on the right track although I don't know what's in your fuel tank that's going to cause this kind of heat-soak issue.
Have you tried flooring the gas pedal and keeping it there when you start it warm? If that works, I'd be guessing you are getting too rich of a fuel enrichment with a warm engine.
But, you do say you have problems after waiting for 30 minutes or so.
Anyway, your problem is probably the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This is under the Plastic/Chromelooking cover on the top of the motor. It on the fuel rail, I think before the first injector. It has a sensor and a vacumn hose on it. Start the car and pull the vacumn hose off. If any fuel at all leaks out, you need to replace it. Aftermarket, about $70.
What happens is, when stopped, fuel under pressure leaks into the vacumn line and this is pulled into the intake when being restarted, causing an overly rich mixture - hard starts. You probably can see a puff of smoke when it does start.
Your caddy dealer is just trying to get into your pocket. I don't know of a 'sensor' in the fuel tank. Now the fuel pump is in there. If it is going out, the dealer should be able to put a pressure gauge onto a valve that is also on the fuel rail and see low fuel pressure - both with key on before starting and after start and running. If there is low fuel pressure, first change the fuel filter - if this does not correct, then a fuel pump will probably be needed. Which is inside the fuel tank, and the pump and fuel gauge meter are usually both replaced.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Elissa
Thanks.
In a possibly related note, we'd had a problem with the "check temperature" light coming on for no reason about 1 1/2 years ago, but the local shop just disconnected the sensor on that, since the temp gauge always showed normal.
Has this been encountered by anyone else? I'd be grateful for any advice.
Recently I jacked my front wheels off the ground to check for a warped brake rotor. The parking brake on the rear wheels was locked. I started the engine and put it into drive. The front wheels spun...but (perhaps fortunately) the rear did not. Later I wondered why i didn't stall the engine or lurch forward if the AWD was working. Comment?
Usually the problem is one of two things...bad pump or clogged nozzles. Rarely but occasionally you'll get a corroded connector at the pump motor.
A simple test light and a friend operating the stalk switch should solve your mystery.
Yeah, I imagine that it was fortunate your rear wheels did not move. At idle, there is not going to be enough torque to overcome the parking brake if it is working properly, but that does not mean torque is not being applied. The engine won't stall for similar reasons that it does not stall when you stop at a light....
If you want to see if all 4 wheels are powered, just put the whole car on jack stands and put it into drive again (without a parking brake). I'm sure you'll see them all spinning. Or, you can just high-center it in some snow for a similar effect. Ah! If you want to have some real fun, do what you did last time but then stomp on the accelerator. That should get you moving. ;-)
Just in case this isn't a joke, DO NOT EVER bind the wheels of an AWD vehicle while others are allowed to move!
I should have put a disclaimer at the bottom of my post:
*Do NOT try this at home.....
You're serious? You did this to your car?
Excessive idling can cause serious carbon build up in the heads, increased emissions, spark knock when accelerating, and ultimately shortens engine life.
In old days with chokes, warmup meant the extra rich mixture had leaned slightly so you didn't damage the walls as much with the washdown by the extra gasoline that caused metal on metal friction. Now the computer control has the mixture leaned out and the oil can keep the walls lubed.
I had a 67 Mustang that I tore down at 30K due to a seizing problem. Found the ridges were alread definite where the walls had worn due to gasoline washing away the oil when cold with a rich mixture.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance
I had one leak at the rubber part of the valve stem where it meets the rim -- when I didn't have new stews installed at 60K with new Michelins.
I've actually checked the bead area with a sponge and Dawn in water--kind of richer than you'd use for washing dishes. Just dab along the bead. I've also checked the tread by dabbing water on it then moving the car a few inches and dabbing water on the next area. Found the brad that was causing the leak!!! The inner bead would be a bear to reach unless it's on the front and you can turn the wheel sharply.
I try to do anything to avoid removing the wheel.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The car is under warranty, but the guys said they would fix it no matter what.
One week later, it's at the Pontiac dealership (upon delivery from the shade tree mechanic at the car lot) with no visible codes from the computer scanner.
I told them they have to drive it more than just the mechanic driving it home overnight and "burning" up my mileage. It has to be driven "all day". But, the Pontiac dealership said they can't find any problems and could not get the car to replicate the problem.
To make my long story short, could it be a clogged fuel filter or is it the fuel pump? I say put a new filter and pump on it instead of sitting on the hands and make a start somewhere. Atleast there would be a new pump on it if that isn't the problem.
We haven't even put 100 miles on it yet, the mechanics put more miles on it than us. :-(
Please help anyone.
I was on my way to memorial on thursday.
(The union Iron Workers whos plane went down in
Alaska and still havent been found yet. Hear
about it?) And the Celica died on the Freeway,
lost all power! Now it just turns over. Thought it
was the timing belt, its ok!
The car has been thrusting forward lately
like im stabbing the gas pedel.
1990 Celica st
Any suggestions Thx,
Dave
Iron Workers Local 118 Sacramento Ca
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
That's the first place I would go.
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
That's the first place I would go.
And just a word about the whole picture - you want them to drive it all day, but you don't want them to put any miles on it?? You simply can't have it both ways - they either diagnose it and fix it, or they don't.
On your Celica, maybe a fuel filter that's fallen apart if the pump's ok?
Steve, Host
Have a 2000 Lincoln LS (V8) and the engine light has just come on. Car seems to be mis-firing, rough acceleration -- a sort of lurching feeling. Lincoln's manual suggested higher-octane (91) fuel which has slightly mitigated the problem. But it's still apparent when I have to accelerate. The problem started after a recent long, high-speed, drive. I've been told it might be everything from old spark plugs -- I have 70,000 on the car and don't believe they've ever been changed -- to a catalytic converter problem. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealership ($$$). Thanks