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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Does anyone know if s-plan price includes the destination fee? I have contacted some dealers, they showed me the invoice of Mazda3 2007 S TG Hatch, but it incudes some assessment fee around 200, is that normal? I am in Ohio, Thanks!
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    The destination charge on a 3 is $595 in ConUS. The "dealer cost" of destination charge is the same as "retail cost" so there is no discount/dealing on that item.

    The invoice should have the dealer's invoice price (less destination) and the s-plan price (less destination) and then have the destination cost as a separate item that adds to the other prices.

    I don't know what the "Assessment fee" is, this is not mentioned anywhere in any Mazda stuff I have seen (but I am not an expert at this). They should show you the actual invoice and you take the s-plan price plus destination fee and that should be your price - unless you have any dealer installed options.

    I think under S-Plan the dealer CAN charge you "reasonable fee" for paperwork, etc. They may be charging you the $200 for a "salesperson's commission". Again, I think as long as they are reasonable they can charge a little more than the s-plan price + $595 destination. Under x-plan (at a Ford dealership) I think they have to charge you just x+dest and nothing else.

    Looks like s on the 5 door S GT manual would be $18,523 and $19,409 for an auto. You can check on the internet lots of places for invoice prices - but $18,523 is what I have for the manual 3 s GT hatch.

    So if they charge you $200 more, that is still a hot deal $200 over invoice including dealer fees. Heck, most of my local dealers get a MINIMUM of $299 for a doc fee or prep fee and it goes up from there.

  • Thank you , Dennis:
    The reason that I was asking about the dest. fee is that on my paper work, they just listed the base price of the car (2007 Mazda S Touring Auto, hatch), 18209 (=18039+170 assessment fee), and the total unpaid balance does not include destination fee and there is nowhere showing destination fee.They also charged me $250 documentary fee, saying that is standard in Ohio( I have asked several dealers, they all charge that including vw dealers, so maybe it is true?) They did not show me the invoice because they have to locate the car that I want first. But I have put down a deposit for it. Am I ripped off?
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Am I ripped off?

    If they keep forgetting to may you pay the $595 destination charge, then no :surprise:

    Charging you $250 doc and $170 as another fee sounds like too much, but as I said some local dealers here get about that much in doc fees anyway.

    The deal is good if compared to what you could negotiate on your own you get a better price. Around here 3's are selling really fast and dealers are not discounting them much at all. The dealer that sold me an RX-8 a year ago for $500 under invoice will only take off a few hundred on a 3 sedan for my daughter now. Supply and demand - they can sell about as many as they can get so they don't deal.

    If a local dealer offered me your deal ($420 over invoice including dealer fees) for a car that match my daughter's specs - I think we would take it.

    A Ford retiree friend is trying to see about getting us an s-plan PIN. I think HERE - even with some fees - it will save my daughter some money - right now.

    If you want to buy a speed6, for example, you don't need s-plan just a checkbook. Those and the RX-8s are priced way under s-plan prices now since they can't sell them.

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Something else to remember - a difference of $100 or $200 on a deal is really "nothing". Each $100 is 1/2 percent on a $20k deal and a couple of bucks per month on a car note.

    Now I don't like paying too much nor do I like getting ripped off, but sometimes you have to not try to not get EVERY penny out of a deal. I still try, then I remember to relax and enjoy the new car - even if it cost me $100 more than the perfect price :D

  • I agree. I do believe that dealers need to make a profit. As long as it is a fair deal, I won't bother to get to the bottom line. but since I have read so many stories of dealer's tricks or scams, I was little bit worried especially being a female. They don't have a car that I want in their lot and they need to locate a car for me. They called me couple of days ago, saying they found one car but with moonroof+cd changer option. I told them no since I don't need any extra, so they are still looking. My worry is: what if they can't find a car that matches my description and they ask me to wait for a month? What about my deposit?
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    You can use the car find function at to find the car for yourself - if one is around. With the s-plan the price is the same from any dealer, so you could go to the dealer that has the car and buy it direct.

    Part of the extra fee may be for finding and transporting the found car to you. It does cost them money (employee time and gas) to move the cars - and it does have someone other than you driving your new car first :(

    I think the non-refundable deposit went the way of the do-do bird. If they can't find you a car then you get the money back. Now if they find your one, pay to move it to town for you, then you back out they MAY want you to pay them back for time and trouble out of the deposit.

    If you have not signed a delivery document your PIN should still work anywhere - use the locator and find the car and go get it :D

  • I haven't signed a delivery document and they did not even ask for my S-pin. They did write a note on my contract that the buyer will provide s-pin. Indeed I did search mazda website inventory and found two cars matching my description, but they are about 100 miles away ( not in the state where I am though). Should I tell my dealer about this? I am sure if they search hard enough, they should have the same info as I found. I am not sure if they have their internal inventory that is not publically available but searchable among Mazda dealers. The other thing is that I did not put a note on the contract as how many days at most they should spend to get the car I want. What should I do? Just wait?
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    The dealer should have access to MORE car information than the mazdausa site provides to us. Some of the cars shown may already be sold and some may also be on the way and not yet on the lot, some may have deposits on them or be special orders.

    What *I* would do is find the car you want. Go to that dealer's web page (if they have one) and see if they show the inventory and see if THEY show they have it for sale. Then follow up with a phone call to them to confirm they have it for sale.

    Then I would ask each one that has the car how much they charge in s-plan fees. Some dealers charge $175 some may charge $300, I heard of one that charges a LOT more. The s-plan price would be the same everywhere, but the Mazda dealer does get to tack some extra fees on them.

    If the folks that HAVE the car charge reasonable fees, *I* would get my check back from the first dealer and just go get the car.

    You could call the dealer you first worked with and point them to the other car. The MAY want to charge you for having to go get it and they will usuall send someone to DRIVE your new car back to their dealership.

    I have not heard of a non-refundible deposit in a long time and clearly they are not working hard for your business if they could not find the cars you did (assuming you verify they are on the ground and ready for sale).

    I am still working to get an s-plan PIN, someone told me Ford employees were allowed to generate as many PINs per year as they wanted for MAZDA sales - but that may no longer be true. I think for Ford purchases it is limited to 2 per year. In any case, the dealers offered me $500 over invoice + dealer fee if I can't get a PIN. One dealer gets about $250 the other about $384 in fees.

  • Thanks for the advise! As far as how many PINS is concerned, here is what I found from Ford AXZ plan FAQs:

    Each active or retired Ford Motor Company employee receives four (4) PINs each calendar year. The PINs they distribute to their eligible members, as well as those they use themselves all count against the four they are allocated. Note: Members are not aware of the number of PINs remaining for their Sponsor and thus you may be denied a PIN request because the Sponsor is out of PINs for the current year.

  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I have been following what you have had concerns with, maybe I can help you, I am a Mazda dealer.

    To start, S-Plan is invoice. Destination/regional assessment is included.

    Regional assessment is that "$200" charge you saw, that Mazda charges in different regions of the country. They are all printed on the factory invoice. They differ from region to region. Mazda does not disclose them on their web site. For example, I am located in the New York region.

    What is not included is dealer fee's (processing fee's) tax, registration etc.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    So the assesment fee would likely be the same for any area dealer she talked to? The only difference would be how much extra (if any) each dealer charges for doc/setup/processing?

  • Thanks a lot! That makes me feel better :) In deed I did find the car from the other dealer's website (which is over 100 miles away from where I am). As a dealer like you, will he be willing to get the car so far away for a potential buyer?
  • I have seen a VW dealer's invoice,it included some Association fee, Floor plan assistance fee etc. But from I learned from internet, the floor plan assistance is kind of scam. But it was included in the invoice. If that is the case, should the customer pay for that? Ofcz, that is not mazda dealer, just wondering...
  • Is there a forumula to calculate a lease payment? I know specials run from time to time, but, I am looking for a Mazda 3 S Grand Touring model. With options, MSRP is $24K and invoice is $22K. I'm sure I can get it for the $22K. Is there a calcuation to get a 2 yr/15K miles lease or must I go to the dealers for this. Any help is appreciated.
  • I'll be buying a Mazda 3 soon. Can I get opinions about this proposed price:

    2007 3i Touring (auto)
    ABS package
    Rear wing spoiler

    $17,187 (includes destination)

    Invoice,according to Edmunds is: $17,168

    Since the o7's just came out, Edmunds TMV for this car looks out of whack. It's $18,311 My agreed on purchase price is just a couple dollars under the TMV of the '06

    It seems like a good deal to me.

  • My dealer got the car for me! They said the milage is about 100 miles which is what I guessed( from Mazda website I found that car 100 miles away). Anyway, is there anything I need to pay attention when they deliver the car tomorrow? Should I test drive it first before I finalize the deal? Is it possible they show extra charge on the paper? I already signed one paper indicating the total unpaid balance, just want to make sure. Thanks :)
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018

    Go over it with a fine tooth comb looking for dents, dings, and chips and make them note on a "we owe" if you find anything wrong. Same on the inside. I hate to be obsessive about it but I purchased a Previa van for my wife one time and failed to notice a crease in the passenger door until after we got it home. Too late then to make them fix it. Every time I looked at the door until we sold it > 100k later I saw that crease and was mad at myself.

    The s-plan price is invoice which was posted here, and someone (nicely, thanks) explained about the extra fee. That plus maybe a modest dealer fee, taxes, and tags should be it. I don't know what the your state tax deal is, but you could find out and calculate that for yourself. Ditto the tags and title - transfer VS new tags.

    For sure test drive it before signing anything. If it has a vibration, rattle, squeak, etc it will drive you nuts. Those things have to be fixed up front or better a different car obtained.

    It will likely be fine, since they drove it back and would have noticed a problem and probably gave it a good look before they picked it up - but you need to do these things for yourself. 99 out of 100 may be fine, but you don't want to be the 1 that got a rattling, squeaky, dented "new car" :D


    My daughter has decided on the Civic EX (though now I have Mazda salespeople calling me hot to sell her the Mazda3 for cheap). We may go up and pick it up this weekend - about a 3 hour drive each way.

  • Thanks! Here the tax is 7.5% As I mentioned before, I wonder if they will add the dest. fee since my total unpaid balance does not include it :P Civic EX is very nice, I did not test drive Civic because it is more expensive and I know I could get a good deal from Mazda. Oh, do you think wheel lock is necessary? Mine does not include it. From what I learned, it is to prevent others to steal your alloy wheels. But if sb is determined to get these wheels, he must know they need special tools to take off these alloy ones even if it is locked. Does that make sense? Also I heard it is generally not a good idea to drive your new car on high way for long time. Why is it?

    Congrats to you and your daughter! Enjoy the new car!
  • Oh, another question :) Can I ask the dealer to fax me the contract or paper work i need to sign tomorrow so that I can read it at home tonight? Will they do that?
  • Hello, every one:
    I was supposed to get a brand new 2007 Mazda3 ST Hatch. But when I test drove the car today, the steering wheel did not keep straight and the car shifted towards left side. SO they took the car to the service and told me the tire pressure was off so they balanced it. I signed the paper and testdrove it again, the car still shifted slightly towards left. What should I do now? They have the car now and will check it on Monday and I should pick it up on Monday. My question is what if the problem still exists? SHould I ask for another car or what? They got this car for me from 100 miles away and I wonder why they did not find the problem when they drove on highway over here. Or maybe I am too sensitive to the shift? Thanks a lot for your input and suggestions!
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Sounds like the alignment is off? If a new car is damaged the dealer has to disclose it (at least that is the case here) so I would assume it would be something like the tire pressures are off or the alignment is off. Some roads have a lot of crown from heavy use or slow by design, I assume you tried many roads and it always the same? Does it pull to the side? If you speed up and slow down does it pull only when you speed up? Or is the wheel just not straight? If the car is aligned, but with the wheel a little off it will run down the road fine but the wheel will be slightly cocked.

    I would go over any new car with a fine tooth comb and test drive it. Anything that is wrong needs to either be fixed, or noted on the "We owe" document, or another car obtained. You are paying for a perfect, new car and that is what you should have.

  • it always pulled to the left. Not sure why. Is it possible to be a lemon? My friends said I should not get this car and I should wait to get another one. Another thing: when I went to finalize the paper work, they told me the saleman that I was contacting is no longer with them and there is one problem with previous contract. They said they forgot to charge a destination charge , plus since the car was from PA, I have to pay for that assessment fee. So now I have to pay 600+ more than what I signed to. I argued that I should not pay for pittsburgh assessment since I amnot buying from them, so we settled down to pay for local assessment fee. BUT I am really confused now. My friend who got me the S-pin told me S-price should not include the destination fee and I should stick to my previous contract. But the dealer dis not recognize that previous contract, they said either I accept the new one or null the deal. Plus, they never asked me the s-pin, nor did they show me the real invoice. What should I do? Is there any trap?
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    The assesment may have to be paid if it came from a dealer that gets charged one. I don't know if they swapped cars or what and I have no idea what happens with the assesment.

    The s-plan "rules" say they have to show you the invoice so you can verify the price. You have to pay the destination charge on s-plan as well and I think s-plan price = invoice price. So you can go someplace like and build the same car they are trying to sell you and see what they show for invoice (including dest) and that should be your price - plus maybe the assesment and maybe some other dealer fees.

    Since they do not seem to know what they are doing, your s-plan PIN guarantees you a good deal, and the car they are trying to sell you seems wrong to you - I think I would get back your deposit and walk (or run) away. Make note of that VIN so you don't see that again. Then find another dealer that knows how to handle the s plan sale and get another car. I guess. I hate that they got stuck bringing in a car (at their expense) but they have to be fair with you as well. Seems like you have really tried to let them sell you a car but they keep tripping up.

  • I'm thinking of possibly trading in or selling my 04 6s, and buying an 07 3s. I think there is a big improvement in gas mileage, and i like the idea of the 3 having stability control for 07, which wasn't available for the 06' 3. I'm just going to wait till they have some incentives on the new ones.
  • The salesman called me today and told me that the alignment has no problem and it is ready to deliver, which means they did not do anything about it. I told him i don't want this specific car because I want the brand new perfect car. He said " so you don't want this car even if it does not have problem?" I told him it has problems and I will be out of town so I am not going to look for a car. But then he offers to find another sedan for me because I told him I don't want a car with similar situation. He said he was going to search the inventory and call me back. But when I called , he told me the sales manager wanted to talk.
  • All of my friends and collegues told me the contract I signed (with a lower price) is a leagal bond and they should honor that price even if they claimed there was a mistake. And that is the only contract with both mine and their signature. BUT Now the sales manager has a total attitude, he told me: "It is your car, you have to come to pick it up, or you loose your deposit!" He hung up on me. He also hung up on my friend. I told him I am buying a brand new car at the agreed price on the contract signed by me and him. I am not going to buy that car with the inflated price ( I never signed the contact with that higher price). But he talked as if I already bought the car and I should take it with me and pay for the higher price. Because of that rude attitude, I am not going do business with them. I just want my deposit back. But they refuse to do so. Should I get a lawyer? I am going to report to BBB. If I could, I will tell everyone not to buy anything from this dealership!
  • A friend of mine who works at Ford enrolled me in the plan last November when I leased a Mazda. I'm considering trading in my current Mazda for a different model, but I am still considered as active in the S-plan or do I need my friend to re-enroll me??
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I think they generate a PIN that allows you to purchase or lease a single car or truck. If you want something else now, then I think they will need to generate a new PIN for you again. PINs expires after a year if you don't use them.

    Some s-plan info is here . You do have to keep the new car 6 months, which you have done.

    Leases can be very expensive to get out of, so "trading in" your lease car may not be a very good move. A lot of Mazda products can be had for invoice or less these days, and s-plan gets you invoice pricing without the hassle. This is good for something like the mazda3 which is a hot seller, but may be no help on something like the rx-8 which is a slow seller.

    Just curious, what you have now and what new car are you looking at?

  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Just put down a deposit on one today. Aroura blue 5-speed moonroof no nav. Before tax title and lisence fees i was quoted 20725 plus a few hundred off for something or another. Made the deal with Walser Mazada in Burnsville Minnesota and so far the transaction couldnt be going and smoother or easier. All the sales people i have talked to were very nice and always helpful. Would recommend them to anyone.
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