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engine is at or near idle, you can hear the freon pulsate
in the evaporator under the dash. It takes a cold
evaporator, and some other conditions to get this.
It means nothing, and is not a problem, you just hear it
when it is quiet in the car. Turn the fan up one speed
and you most likely will not hear it.
About a week ago - all of my brake lights went out. Changed the fuse - nothing...Changed the brake light switch - nothing...changed the bulbs - JUST IN CASE - nothing...Now, today the truck is STUCK in park. I don't know if the 2 are related...any ideas? Had to have it towed and they can't look at it until tomorrow. :sick:
I had a '96 Suburban that would start doing this about 5k after compete overhauls. I would grind the rotors until they were too thin, then buy new ones. The rears could take 2 grinds, and they had to be tossed too.
I started to manually downshift on hills to try and save the brakes. (I live in the Lake Tahoe - mountains).
The newer 2000/2001 through 2006 were better, but I still had to turn all 4 rotors after 30k.
I now have an '07, and the rotors are now big and touchy. It's almost car-like how sensitive they are to pedal pressure. I'm glad they (GM) are taking the brakes seriously now.
Dave
Any one ever hear of this? The Chevy service manager is stumpted.
Thanks in advance
Buckle up!!!
:sick:
I have a 2001 that does that from time to time. It's really no big deal. It's in the valve train which is in the top part of the engine. After the oil pump gets enough oil pumped up to the top of the engine the ticking stops. As your engine sits the oil drains back down to the oil pan, so when you get back in after a while you'll have the ticking until the oil is pumped back up there again. Don't worry about it because the ticking sound is two pieces of metal hitting each other and not grinding on each other.
When it's warm the idle RPM's go down to 500 RPM or less, sometimes stalling the engine. I've got a Haynes manual for the vehicle and it's of very little help. It does say the the TPS (throtle position sensor) on all 2001 models is actualy 2 sensors in one, but it doesn't say what the other sensor is. I've assumed that it also contains the Idle Air Control Valve but it does not give any discription of the wiring or wire coloring so I can trouble shoot it. Does anyone else have this problem and if so how did you fix it?
thanks, kwk2
This is normal, because in order for 4wd to be usefull on loose surfaces (ice, sand, mud), both wheels must get power. The front differential has a tight "posi-traction" setting.
On more sophisticated systems, like AWD or "Full Time 4wd", the front differential is designed to provide "balance" of the power applied to the fronts, and lessen or eliminate the tight feel.
I don't believe the 2000 subby has Full Time, so you should only engage during snow or off-roading.
Dave
Anyone run across the Tahoes burning through rear brakes much faster than the fronts? I was always under the assumption that the front brakes accounted for about 60-70% of the braking, but I am on my second set of rear pads which the dealer tells me are getting low after about 16000 miles and the fronts still look like brand new at 76000 miles.
Thanks.
Also, before my rear controls quit we had trouble making them work properly. We never figured out how the back seat could listen to a Cd while front listened to radio. We finally found it useless since we had to listen to the same thing and stopped using it, so we really don't know how long it has been broken. Do you know how to work it?
First the heat problem. The temp gage reads generally 190-210 degrees, occasionally jumping to a little over the 210 degree mark. I suspected this was a little high, then confirmed it when riding in my friends 1996 Tahoe w/ the same vortec engine and it ran closer to 170 degrees.
I replaced the radiator and thermostat. No change. HELP!
Now to the funky misfire. It has run this way since purchase, and at around 145k miles I got the dreaded PO420 code. I replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and the code remained, also no running change. I then replaced the bank1 cat and that solved the code problem- but it still seems to run the same way! Maybe I need to do the other cat as suggested by the muffler shop, but I really dont want to since it costs $300+ to do the job- for each cat!
SO I continue to drive w/ this misfire- and a not so healthy 10 MPG around town and 15 MPG hiway. I've also replaced plugs/cap/rotor/wires, flushed the injectors, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the EGR valve. Nothing seems to help.
The misfire isnt real bad, just a low rumble/shake in the engine that a sensitive driver like me can feel. I still have great acceleration power and she never has a starting problem. Its just the same ongoing annoying misfire coupled with what I think is really poor MPG- or is this normal MPG for a '97 w/ 150k miles?
also forgot to note: my mechanic found it very odd that after replacing the radiator and thermostat, the lower intake radiator hose stays real cool no matter what, while the upper hose stays hot. Is this due to poor water ciculation from a bad water pump?
Shan
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I think your mpg is much lower than it should be. Probably due to the misfire. A good tech should be able to pinpoint the misfire problem. As far as your temp problem(?), a reading from 190 to 210 seems pretty normal. Temp guage reading differences between vehicles is simply that the guages don't always read the same from car to car. Some read hot, some read cooler. As long as your engine is not overheating you are OK.
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There's obviously an open circuit which is draining the battery. Your dealer needs to get one of their techs on this and start tracing down the circuits to see where the problem is. It can be fixed but may not be easy to find. Warranty should take care of this. Make them give you a loaner car and tell them not to call you until they have solved the problem....or give you a brand new vehicle.
Rockman59 what should I do if the car come back and it happen again? do I just trade it in for the same, or just bail out all together. This is leaving a bad taste in my mouth.
Thanks again
Shan
Shan :sick:
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Hmmm....maybe it's time for me to start another career...advising folks on how to handle problems with their car dealer!!!!!
Perhaps it is a simple fix and not too costly. Could be just one O2 sensor. They cost nearly $100 a piece (you probably have four of them) but are worth fixing. It could also be the EGR valve stuck open. That usually can be cleaned for a fix.
One very simple reason for the light to come ON is the fuel tank cap not holding pressure. Fix for that would be a new cap from the parts dealer.
Or it can be a number of other things...
--Arrie--
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Sounds like you found the answer to your problem....
1-888-327-4236
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm
They have a thrid party that is the custodian of all the records who will mail these items to you per email request at: tis@nhtsa.dot.gov
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
Paint swirls are fine acratches in the clear coat and are most noticable in direct sun light. They are real easy to get in the paint but only special polish will reduce or eliminate them.