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If not, you should look at any of the hose connections, as well as see if the leak is coming from the back of the waterpump (on the front of the engine).
Had an older Suburban which had a small coolant leak, and it was the water pump beginning to leak on the driveway. It had about 70-75K miles at the time. If the waterpump is your problem and you end up yanking it, put new radiator hoses on it at the same time.
But you could just have a hose leaking where the clamp is, for instance a heater hose, or even one of the radiator hoses. A lot of times you can just slip another small clamp right next to the original clamp, and that will solve the problem.
This could be a 79 cent fix for a small clamp, or hundreds of dollars. You just need to get in there and look around till you find where it's coming from.
Please let me know about the heater use and what role that might play. Thanks! (and/or how to view this hose and it's clamps.)
My runs fine, but recently at stops feel like it does have a very slight stumble in the idle. What was your Tahoe doing if anything that made you think it was the fuel pump? I have 69K on my Tahoe and thought that I would start with the O2 sensors. I did have the K&N 5700 Cold Air Intake on it for quit awhile and also the Bully Dog Program. I put the stock Air Filter Box back on and removed the Bully Dog Program, but I'm still getting the same codes. The MAF was dirty so I cleaned it off with carburetor cleaner and let it air dry. I really don't want to waste money and start buying parts and R&R them if they don't need to be. If it's the fuel pump wouldn't it be noticeable? Hard starting, stumbling bad, not making any noises or too much noise, etc?
Any help would be appreciated as I said above I really don't want to waste money on parts that I can't afford or don't need.
Thanks John
:confuse:
I got a mailer from Chevy today offering a "performance inspection" which includes "we will check vehicles tires, cooling system, climate control/air conditioning system, exhaust, fluid levels,lights and electrical system."
I am thinking it will be cheaper to go in for that than to bring it in to diagnose a problem. I bet they'd charge me a half hour to an hour labor if I brought it in for the leaking coolant.
QUESTION: When they say they will check the "cooling system" what do you think they mean? Do you think they'll pressure test it and visually look for leaks? Or will they check the fluid (which is only a slight bit low-it's not a big leak-yet.)and say it's fine.
It is only 19.99 for this inspection, so I thought I'd start with this, then if they tell me all is well I will question them and mention the coolant that I found in my driveway.
Opinions?
Stuff you could do yourself.
I'm tempted to do it just to have my hair stand on end when I see the report with their recommendations to keep my car "operating to its full potential." $$$ :shades:
Anyway, testing for fluid levels for $20 most likely won't cover a pressure test.
Your question hits home - my ski buddy had to take his Ford into the shop this morning for a leaky radiator - he noticed it dripping coolant while gassing up. He's glad it's just that ($250 estimate) since it could have been the heater core. He goes to an independent shop fwiw.
I'm hoping they see a hose! I'll turn down a flush and fill, plus the fluid looks really clean.
I wonder what they will say when they call me and say it looks fine (except for that fluid change I agree they'll suggest) and I tell them that they are wrong, and that I know there is a leak....Maybe I'll get lucky and it will drip for them..
I'm still thinking they'd charge me bigger bucks if I took it in with an actual problem, cause they'd know they have me for something
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That's what they should do when "checking" the system. Don't settle for anything less.
Any thoughts on how likely a dealer concession is on a 2004 w/35ooo miles and warranty ran out near the end of July?? How do I ask for a dealer concession, or is it something I demand? How long should this part last?
Thanks.
If you have 'coolant sprayed everywhere', then this is not a slight drip and you need to get this looked at before you run out of coolant and overheat the engine. If you drive it overheated, you can ruin the engine and have thousands of dollars of repairs. What happens is when the car warms up, pressure builds up in the radiator and will force the coolant out if you have a leaking area somewhere. When the engine and radiator cools down, it stops leaking (because there is no pressure forcing it out).
Get someone technically compentent to look at this, if your husband isn't. Many shops could do this work. Depending on your service and sales relationship with the dealer, and of course depending upon what the problem ends up being, they may comp you on it since your mileage is still low. If they don't, you'll probably pay slightly more at the dealer than you would at an independant shop.
Keep your radiator topped off in the meantime, and get this taken care before you are stranded somewhere or do some real damage.
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In my driving experiences water pumps seldom failed under 100,000 miles. Not sure anymore what the manufacturers think about that but a water pump should certainly last a lot longer than 35,000 miles.
Took it back today. Apparently on the pressure test it does not show any leakage, but as it cools down (or something like that) the water pump "seeps".
My dealer is currently without a service manager!! I got the number to call Chevy for concession...Then the shop foreman walked out with me...We talked and he said he'd see if he could help out at all by talking with someone (new servie mgr next week?). He agreed, without committing, that I shouldn't need one yet...
Turns out the factory rep was in the building, he talked to him, and they okayed the pump for me!!
I think I got lucky because this guy was so nice and went out of his way, and the timing was good too. I was afraid the new service mgr would have so much to deal with that I'd get blown off. They topped me off and I take it back next week (no time today)
I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with just over 120,000 miles on it. For as long as I can remember I've had what can best be described as a sound from the front left wheel-area like i'm on a train. Evenly spaced duh-duhs, like the wheels of the train going over the spaces in the rails. Weird, I know. However, what makes this troubling now is that the noise is associated with a vibration at between 40-50mph and again at 70-80mph.
Seeing that I drive to Boulder, CO about 4x a month from Aspen, I need my truck to drive well. Any thoughts? A friend of mine said it could be the Wheel Bearing. I'm not sure.
Thanks-
Alex
thanks.
You should check the wheel bearing, and the Constant Velocity Joint.
I'd also recommend since they'll be there, at checking that there isn't too much play in the lower ball joint. I had both of mine bad at about 60K miles in older Suburban. A ball joint problem would cause other problems also like alignment and abnormal tire wear.
does anyone have any ideas on how to fix?
Patrice
Thanks again.
-Thanks
i have change rear main seal / valve cover gasket / oil press. switch / cam sensor/ and ol pan gasket. still have same problem can someone help me. thanks
So if I run a ground wire to some bare metal on the body and it starts working do u suggest that it might be an electrical shortage or something. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks
wiggey
The comment on the report reads as follows;
COMMENT SHUTTLE/MAIN SEAL/ RO #128863
JOB OPERATION DESCRIPTION CWI PR EST. TIME TECH $QUOTE
1 97CVZOPENRO VEH. HAS OPEN RO W 0.00
This rig only has 5443 miles on it. yes it is under warranty but once these people start messing with stuff....
The mechanic said they had done one of these jobs before.
Has anyone else seen this issue before?
Since the car is so new should I be contacting Chevy?
Any suggestions/information?
It could be that something got sucked into the fan.
Look forward to your response.
Thaks
Service 4WD Message and what other users did about it