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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well that's low miles for having a coolant problem, I'd probably take it to the dealer and ask them to do it under warranty or dealers concession.

    If not, you should look at any of the hose connections, as well as see if the leak is coming from the back of the waterpump (on the front of the engine).

    Had an older Suburban which had a small coolant leak, and it was the water pump beginning to leak on the driveway. It had about 70-75K miles at the time. If the waterpump is your problem and you end up yanking it, put new radiator hoses on it at the same time.

    But you could just have a hose leaking where the clamp is, for instance a heater hose, or even one of the radiator hoses. A lot of times you can just slip another small clamp right next to the original clamp, and that will solve the problem.

    This could be a 79 cent fix for a small clamp, or hundreds of dollars. You just need to get in there and look around till you find where it's coming from.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Are heater hoses used just when the heat runs? My husband did say that he first noticed it one day when he had run the heat for the first time since last year. He was wondering if it was related to the heater....I thought the a/c and heat would use all the same hoses and such. If it is a heat only hose, then maybe you are right and that is the problem. SInce we have no idea how to tell even something that simple, I still have to choose, dealer or no dealer????

    Please let me know about the heater use and what role that might play. Thanks! (and/or how to view this hose and it's clamps.)
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Member Posts: 112
    I own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. At first I started getting codes PO 101, 171 & 174 codes. I would clear them and they wouldn't come back on for awhile. Now I'm getting the PO 300 with the wording “A Boost Perf” after the code. I read my manual on the 300 code and it says it could be several things from bad MAF, Coils, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, O2 Sensors, etc. I don't recall seeing anything about the fuel pump?

    My runs fine, but recently at stops feel like it does have a very slight stumble in the idle. What was your Tahoe doing if anything that made you think it was the fuel pump? I have 69K on my Tahoe and thought that I would start with the O2 sensors. I did have the K&N 5700 Cold Air Intake on it for quit awhile and also the Bully Dog Program. I put the stock Air Filter Box back on and removed the Bully Dog Program, but I'm still getting the same codes. The MAF was dirty so I cleaned it off with carburetor cleaner and let it air dry. I really don't want to waste money and start buying parts and R&R them if they don't need to be. If it's the fuel pump wouldn't it be noticeable? Hard starting, stumbling bad, not making any noises or too much noise, etc?
    Any help would be appreciated as I said above I really don't want to waste money on parts that I can't afford or don't need.
    Thanks John
    :confuse:
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My 2004 Tahoe, 2 months out of warranty has a coolant leak that I need diagnosed. I was waffling between dealer and local mechanic.

    I got a mailer from Chevy today offering a "performance inspection" which includes "we will check vehicles tires, cooling system, climate control/air conditioning system, exhaust, fluid levels,lights and electrical system."

    I am thinking it will be cheaper to go in for that than to bring it in to diagnose a problem. I bet they'd charge me a half hour to an hour labor if I brought it in for the leaking coolant.

    QUESTION: When they say they will check the "cooling system" what do you think they mean? Do you think they'll pressure test it and visually look for leaks? Or will they check the fluid (which is only a slight bit low-it's not a big leak-yet.)and say it's fine.

    It is only 19.99 for this inspection, so I thought I'd start with this, then if they tell me all is well I will question them and mention the coolant that I found in my driveway.

    Opinions?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I suspect for 19.99 they'll open the cap, look at the color of the anti-freeze, see that the level is correct, look to see that the cap seal isn't ripped, look to see if they can see any crude floating around or on the inside fins, look to see that you don't have any obvious visible leaks at hose fittings/clamps, and then realize that it's a couple of years old and suggest to you that you should flush it and replace the anti-freeze.

    Stuff you could do yourself.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I got a mailer this week for my Nissan for a 100 point courtesy check-up. Their factory trained technicians would look at all that stuff and give me a written diagnostic report at no cost or obligation.

    I'm tempted to do it just to have my hair stand on end when I see the report with their recommendations to keep my car "operating to its full potential." $$$ :shades:

    Anyway, testing for fluid levels for $20 most likely won't cover a pressure test.

    Your question hits home - my ski buddy had to take his Ford into the shop this morning for a leaky radiator - he noticed it dripping coolant while gassing up. He's glad it's just that ($250 estimate) since it could have been the heater core. He goes to an independent shop fwiw.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Actually, we couldn't see the hose fitting etc to tell if it was leaking from one. We only see it dripping it off a frame bar. Of course, we didn't lift it up or anything.

    I'm hoping they see a hose! I'll turn down a flush and fill, plus the fluid looks really clean.

    I wonder what they will say when they call me and say it looks fine (except for that fluid change I agree they'll suggest) and I tell them that they are wrong, and that I know there is a leak....Maybe I'll get lucky and it will drip for them..

    I'm still thinking they'd charge me bigger bucks if I took it in with an actual problem, cause they'd know they have me for something
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    whitall said: QUESTION: When they say they will check the "cooling system" what do you think they mean? Do you think they'll pressure test it and visually look for leaks?
    ___________________________________________________________
    That's what they should do when "checking" the system. Don't settle for anything less.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Could be leaking for the water pump too. I have an '06 Sub and it developed a small leak at the top of the pump where the radiator hose is attached. It looked like the hose was leaking but the neck of the water pump had a small crack. The repaired it per warranty with a brand new pump and all related parts (water pump parts kits from GM).
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My husband looked under the truck and couldn't see alot. He did say there was coolant sprayed everywhere. It is probably a lot of blown around by the wind, but I hope this means it's "just" a leak and not something horrible like the heater core or manifolds or some of the other expensive sounding stuff. My husband didn't see any hoses that seemed to be leaking. He mostly say what he thinks are electrical conduits, he said they look like hoses but are metal, so he thinks there are wires inside. His bet is the water pump.

    Any thoughts on how likely a dealer concession is on a 2004 w/35ooo miles and warranty ran out near the end of July?? How do I ask for a dealer concession, or is it something I demand? How long should this part last?

    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You are over thinking this........you need to be taking action.

    If you have 'coolant sprayed everywhere', then this is not a slight drip and you need to get this looked at before you run out of coolant and overheat the engine. If you drive it overheated, you can ruin the engine and have thousands of dollars of repairs. What happens is when the car warms up, pressure builds up in the radiator and will force the coolant out if you have a leaking area somewhere. When the engine and radiator cools down, it stops leaking (because there is no pressure forcing it out).

    Get someone technically compentent to look at this, if your husband isn't. Many shops could do this work. Depending on your service and sales relationship with the dealer, and of course depending upon what the problem ends up being, they may comp you on it since your mileage is still low. If they don't, you'll probably pay slightly more at the dealer than you would at an independant shop.

    Keep your radiator topped off in the meantime, and get this taken care before you are stranded somewhere or do some real damage.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    whitall said: Any thoughts on how likely a dealer concession is on a 2004 w/35ooo miles and warranty ran out near the end of July?? How long should this part last?
    ___________________________________________________________
    In my driving experiences water pumps seldom failed under 100,000 miles. Not sure anymore what the manufacturers think about that but a water pump should certainly last a lot longer than 35,000 miles.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Thanks all. I know it needs looking at. First appt was for later this coming week, so it goes in Thursday. Meanwhile, we keep checking the level and it's not going down much at all.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    My suspicion that I would be suspecting first, with such a low mileage, low age vehicle .....is that you have a hose clamp that need tightening. In the case of Chevy's which tend to use the non-adjustable spring loaded type, you basically can add a 2nd hoseclamp to it, if that is your problem.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Well, they found nothing on performance inspection. Yet, when hubby got home he opened hood and coolant tank was almost 2 inches low!! They got a call from us! How could they miss that? Oh yes, 2004 Tahoe, 3 years old, 34,900 miles. (warranty ran out 7/23/07)

    Took it back today. Apparently on the pressure test it does not show any leakage, but as it cools down (or something like that) the water pump "seeps".

    My dealer is currently without a service manager!! I got the number to call Chevy for concession...Then the shop foreman walked out with me...We talked and he said he'd see if he could help out at all by talking with someone (new servie mgr next week?). He agreed, without committing, that I shouldn't need one yet...

    Turns out the factory rep was in the building, he talked to him, and they okayed the pump for me!!

    I think I got lucky because this guy was so nice and went out of his way, and the timing was good too. I was afraid the new service mgr would have so much to deal with that I'd get blown off. They topped me off and I take it back next week (no time today)
  • kendra2kendra2 Member Posts: 8
    My husband and I have an 03 Tahoe and the speedometer is not working correctly. Chevy told me about the "Partial Recall" and of course ours does not fall within the 7 yr 70,000 mile stipulation. Do they really need to replace the whole cluster, or is it possible to replace or test the speed sensor? Please help if you have any suggestions!!!!
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Hey there-

    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with just over 120,000 miles on it. For as long as I can remember I've had what can best be described as a sound from the front left wheel-area like i'm on a train. Evenly spaced duh-duhs, like the wheels of the train going over the spaces in the rails. Weird, I know. However, what makes this troubling now is that the noise is associated with a vibration at between 40-50mph and again at 70-80mph.

    Seeing that I drive to Boulder, CO about 4x a month from Aspen, I need my truck to drive well. Any thoughts? A friend of mine said it could be the Wheel Bearing. I'm not sure.

    Thanks-
    Alex
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd suspect a belt in the tire is bad. Swap the tire to the back, and see if the noise moves with it....or stays in the front.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    hey, thanks for the msg. I don't its the tire belt. All four tires are brand new, relatively. <1000 miles on 'em. Maybe i'll have them switch them just for the heck of it...

    thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well if the problem existed before the tires were changed, then it probably isn't the tire.

    You should check the wheel bearing, and the Constant Velocity Joint.

    I'd also recommend since they'll be there, at checking that there isn't too much play in the lower ball joint. I had both of mine bad at about 60K miles in older Suburban. A ball joint problem would cause other problems also like alignment and abnormal tire wear.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Great, thanks. I will. I'll let you know what I find out.
  • mrawlsmrawls Member Posts: 2
    same problem here with my 2004 tahoe z71 - chevy sucks!!! they do not stand by their products!!! :mad:
  • mrawlsmrawls Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2004 tahoe z71 and the speedometer and another gauge both broke 2 years ago and I took it to dealer to have it checked out they said pay $900 and we can fix it. I didn't have that much to drop on a simple problem. Now they tell me it was a defective part! but they won't fix it now! chevy sucks!!!
  • chosschoss Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 tahoe w/ the digital climate control system. It seems to only have 2 settings either 60 or 90. the heat only works with the control set to 90. if i put it at 89 it goes to the coldest setting.

    does anyone have any ideas on how to fix?
  • gladewater07gladewater07 Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact problem with a 2003 Tahoe. Tried replacing the entire heating unit into the dash. No help. Looking for answer.
  • gladewater07gladewater07 Member Posts: 2
    Found the answer to 2003 Tahoe climate controll problem. Set on 90 heats and 89 and less goes to cold air. No inbetween. Look up from drivers seat to see small plastic in headliner. Looks like small speaker, but is not. Under the headliner is a small sensor type gizmo. Has fan and very small wire with black ball on end. Reminds me of a very small antena. This works with the climate controll system. New part was less then $30.00 new. Plugged it in which resulted in happy ending.
  • patricefpatricef Member Posts: 1
    Can any mechanic put in transfer case fluid or does it have to be a chevy dealer???

    Patrice
  • chosschoss Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. That works and saved me a lot of money. I went to a dealer and they said it would be a few hundred $$$ just to find the root of the problem. I got the part from NAPA for just over $30.

    Thanks again.
  • gigtahoegigtahoe Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 Tahoe just started doing the same thing, did you ever get a response/repair?
  • dino17dino17 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 tahoe 5.3 with 167000 miles never leaked . This month started leaking really bad around the rear of oil pan by the filter and other side. look like it could be rear seal or oil pan. Any info on the rear cover leaking?
  • ffcrcaldwellffcrcaldwell Member Posts: 2
    well here's what i've got. i just baught a used 03 z71 tahoe with 54k miles on it and i have noticed a slip from first to second, but only the first time I put it in drive after starting. after it makes the shift and all subsquent shifts are as smooth as butter. any insight would be helpful.
    -Thanks
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Check the transmission fluid level.
  • ffcrcaldwellffcrcaldwell Member Posts: 2
    that was my first thaught, and there was plenty and it is in great shape
  • fmarinfmarin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 tahoe 5.3 with 154000 miles never leaked . This month started leaking really bad around the rear of oil pan by the filter and other side. look like it could be rear seal or oil pan. Any info on the rear cover leaking?
    i have change rear main seal / valve cover gasket / oil press. switch / cam sensor/ and ol pan gasket. still have same problem can someone help me. thanks
  • dino17dino17 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 also with the same problem. It just started leaking with in the past 6 weeks same spot , It has 168000 on it . Iam doing the oil pan gasket tonight hope to fix the problem. All the info that I found out said it was not the rear cover? I would like to know if you find out any thing. thanks
  • simmysimmy Member Posts: 5
    I have a problem with my right rear turn signal. When I have my lights on the right light shows but when applying the brake and turning on the signal light there is nothing. I changed the module 3 times and still nothing. My front right signal light flashes very fast. Its just weird how the front signal works but the back doesn't. I rigged it up by placing a wire from the front signal light to the rear and it worked. Has anyone had this problem and found a solution. :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say you have a bad ground in the rear light. By "module" do you mean the entire rear light assembly or just the "flasher" relay? You might try cleaning up the bulb socket and also running a ground wire from one of the bolts that holds the rear tailight assembly to some bare metal on the body.
  • simmysimmy Member Posts: 5
    I don't know if it is only the "flasher" relay because when I turn on the lights either it be the parks or headlights the right rear light does come on. Its when I press my brake it will not show the brake light but its still red and when I turn my right flasher on it will only flash in the front and not the back. And it flashes very fast in the front. I changed those modules a few times, one time it worked for a month and burned out then when I changed them again there was nothing. I cleaned the bulb socket so I was starting to think that it was something electrical.
    So if I run a ground wire to some bare metal on the body and it starts working do u suggest that it might be an electrical shortage or something. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks
  • martin22martin22 Member Posts: 53
    Assuming the bulb is dual filament, what you have described tells me the brake/turn filament has blown. try fitting a new bulb.
  • simmysimmy Member Posts: 5
    I'm sorry but what is a dual filament...lol? As for the bulbs I've changed those when I bought the 3 modules. I was just going to take it to the electric shop and let them figure it out. I appreciate all the help, everyone has been very helpful. But if you think I don't need to take it to the shop please let me know I might save a few hundred dollars. :)
  • pagimenopagimeno Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem, and I found on the internet where to buy the board that is INSIDE the thing, where you plug the bulbs? ....ok...that one....I paid like 20 bucks to replace that, I changed it myself cause it REALLY EASY, and problem solved. Hope helps you too.....they get old you know.....if you change that board AND the bulbs, you should be ok.....
  • simmysimmy Member Posts: 5
    Yeah I changed it 3 times, the first time it worked then the others didn't. I'm starting to think its something electrical... Thanks for your feedback :)
  • fmarinfmarin Member Posts: 2
    had to replace rear engine cover gasket.were rear main seal goes. i got the gasket at dealer part # gm#1254293 is about 30 dollar.had to remove transmisson.
  • wiggeywiggey Member Posts: 2
    When your engine has 150K miles & more, & your leaking at the rear of the block, quite often the rear main seal is the culprit. However, if you replace the rear seal without installing a sleeve on the rear of the crankshaft, the new seal will most likely start leaking in a very short time. The rear journal on the crankshaft will have developed a wear groove where the seal seals against it. This sleeve will slide right over the crankshaft covering the grove worn into the crank, thus giving the new seal a smooth, virgin surface to seal against. In the post of fmarin he didn't mention installing this sleeve, & perhaps that is the reason his engine still has a leak. I hope this may be helpfull, & good luck to both of you.
    wiggey
  • jimimacjimimac Member Posts: 1
    I just recently took my Tahoe in for an oil change and the maintenance department at the Chevy Dealership suggested I had an oil leak. I hadn't noticed anything previously.
    The comment on the report reads as follows;

    COMMENT SHUTTLE/MAIN SEAL/ RO #128863
    JOB OPERATION DESCRIPTION CWI PR EST. TIME TECH $QUOTE
    1 97CVZOPENRO VEH. HAS OPEN RO W 0.00

    This rig only has 5443 miles on it. yes it is under warranty but once these people start messing with stuff....
    The mechanic said they had done one of these jobs before.
    Has anyone else seen this issue before?
    Since the car is so new should I be contacting Chevy?
    Any suggestions/information?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Since the vehicle is under warranty your dealer is the place to get it fixed. Unusual for a rear main seal to be leaking at this low mileage. Make sure they check to see that the oil is not coming from some other part of the engine and dripping down to the transmission area.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Our 2004 Tahoe has always had some knocking noise in the dash, of course it wouldn't perform on demand while it was under warranty. Now it is more persistent. It sounds like knocking, it happens mainly when the heat is on and the controls are set all the way to the top of the red. When we back it down 2-3 notches the noise usually stops. I do think it does it with the a/c too, though haven't tried to isolate at what temp control it does it. I think maybe it has to do with the blower motor. In my Taurus that was an easy do-it-yourself. Any thoughts on what it is? ( I think I hear it best when my ear is to a vent--but noises are so hard to tell where they are coming from...)
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    If you complained about this during warranty then take it back and show them that it's still doing it. They should do something about it.

    It could be that something got sucked into the fan.
  • weebetruckinweebetruckin Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe. We just started getting a message on the dash saying to "Service 4WD". This message seems to go away after shutting off the motor and sometimes doesn't show up for a couple of days. Is this a bad switch or does it mean we need to check the lube level in the transfer case or some other issue? The Tahoe just turned over 36,000 miles. I have looked for service bulletins for this but have found nothing so far.
    Look forward to your response.
    Thaks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might read back a few posts. This seems to have come up before:

    Service 4WD Message and what other users did about it
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