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Proper maintenance is required, and you should have no issues.
I bet 90% of the problems with Audi's on the road are from neglectful maintenance, and/or from incompetent mechanic's and shops.
I got quoted "Multi-ATF Fluid" for my DSG transmission service from one shop. Needless to say, I didn't get the service from them as it requires a DSG Oil; not a fluid.
I bet there's a lot of issues with cars where the maintenance has been done by shoddy mechanic's that do things like put ATF fluid in the DSG transmission.
Also, the car repair business seems to be filled with crooks and criminals. Over-recommending replacement parts, or at least recommending them way too early can raise your running costs considerably. Recommending things you don't need at all does the same.
Find a good honest mechanic; that's the key.
Still, it's a nice driving and nice looking car and I see the appeal. I wouldn't mind having a new one. But not on my life would I ever buy a miled-up used one.
As for association with VW, that's not a plus.
You get a basic simple version of the model and you'll probably be just as lucky. As you've stated, CR has now confirmed Audi has improved over the years to be top 10 material. It's been more than a few years, I'd say the QC became important to them starting around 2000. It takes awhile to erase old perceptions though.
That being said, yes, I've left my rear windshield washer fluid spray nozzle non-functional as it's not important (and probably would cost a lot for someone to find where in the tubing the leak is). I've also been living with a center console that won't lock closed as the latch is broken.
It's far from perfect, but when you compare to '95 Dodge that I had:
Head gaskets, auto transmission, AC system, parking brake, o2 sensors, gas tank o-ring seal/gaskets, battery terminals, starter wires/cables, fuel pump, and belts that none of which could last more than 60,000 miles; it's a no brainer.
Not to mention the Dodge at 65,000 miles had 1,000 literal rattles, while the Audi remains quiet, composed, and bank vault tight at 95K +
Steering gear (rack) $1350
Xenon headlamp assembly (if say someone backs into you) $740 each
ECM -- $980
transaxle -- $6199
So you really want a new one, or maybe a car like yours, one-owner, complete service history, low miles, etc.
These cars will beat you up and leave you for dead if you go in blind.
My wife's '07 A4 2.0T Quattro automatic has 65,000 miles on it. It had problems which were dealt with under warranty, but none in the past 15,000 miles.
Andres 3, have you changed the timing belt on your A3, and, if not, at what mileage do you plan to do it?
There's also a lot of good after-market parts of high quality, or better than OEM for performance, and I think a need for a replacement part is an excellent excuse to upgrade.
I changed my timing belt at about 85,000 miles. They used to recommend them in the old days at 100K miles, but they were getting some breakages in the 90 to 100K mile range, so they've made the recommendation for a new timing belt a very conservative 75K miles. You can look at the belt and see how it is wearing and adjust accordingly.
Sounds like an option to me, not a standard feature (doo-dads and gadgets).
How much would my regular halogen light assembly cost to replace?
Besides, I've heard I can buy Korean-made Xenon light assemblies for my A3 for around $100/piece.
Steering gear (rack) $1350
Xenon headlamp assembly (if say someone backs into you) $740 each
ECM -- $980
transaxle -- $6199
To be fair, how much would these parts cost on say, a Japanese Audi (oops), I mean Subaru, or Honda?
I've grilled a lot of people on maintenance for out of warranty German cars--I mean people who will share ALL the repair and maintenance bills---plus I've had a fair number of such vehicles myself, and it always works out about the same---$125/$150 a month to keep one on the road....IF....you take it to a good indie shop and ....IF....you are thorough in your maintenance...and IF....you don't do any, or little, of the work yourself.
Given the pleasure I get out of a German car driven with elan and a manual transmission, it's worth it.
I think the German cars are worth the extra expense, but I could quickly change my mind when I'm hit with a big repair bill. I could avoid it by trading the A4 with, say, a new Accord 4-cylinder EX-L or Mazda 3 with manual. The manual would make the Accord kind of a rare duck, but would restore a modicum of elan. I know someone with a 2011 model of the Accord I described, and he loves it.
http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1081914_2014-subaru-forester-2-0xt-turbo-firs- t-drive
Apparently there's no rubber-band-ness at all in the sport modes. Between that and the low take rate previously, no wonder they're not bothering with a manual (I still think they should but apparently the ROI just isn't there). Only thing the CVT needs is a way to rev into boost before launch, have to see if it's possible to do torque-locking or if they've got throttle-cutoff technology hooked into the brakes....
Unfortunately no EX-L is available with the stick in the sedan (I bought the EX) - I think the coupe has that combo available. Also rear headroom is down a tad and the trunk pass through is gone.
It is fun driving such a roomy (drives small though) smooth car and still having a stick. Wish they made a wagon and/or diesel. I can dream.
As far as maintenance my 2007 has 160k miles. Only repair in that time was $100 for an o2 sensor. Front brakes original, clutch original. replaced spark plugs at 120k (they were fine but I already had the new ones so I replaced them). Replaced rear brake pads at 130k (long story - e-brake cable froze after hitting a rock). No need for a new timing belt as it has a chain. Change oil about every 8-9k (per maintenance minder) with mobil 1 0w-20. I expect the '13 to be about the same.
Comparing any car to Acura or Lexus is unfair. Those two companies are like gods when it comes to durability and dependability (Honda and Toyota run them after all).
Your right, the German cars are so fun you sometimes forgive and forget some costs. I forgot, at about 93K it was time for new motor mounts in my A3. That was expensive, about $700 I think. Also, I had a window regulator go bad, that's another $300. That's $1K in repairs I forgot about! Of course, I remember my parents Camry needed motor mounts around 100K miles...so... not too early of a death.
Of course, an A6 or A8 will probably cost a lot more than an A3 or A4 to keep running.
It helped that Audi sent me a check for the intake runner control module repairs I've done in the past (twice); amount of about $650 (thought it cost me about $725). They've sent me letters extending the warranty on that part to 7 years and 120,000 miles, as well as 3 other parts I haven't needed to replace or use yet. Getting reimbursed felt great. That's $650 I can potentially give Audi back on my next purchase!
They did cause me trouble when I requested the reimbursement because I admitted getting the letter prior to the 2nd repairs being completed, and I should have gone to the dealer and had it done for free. The problem was my Indy mechanic had already done diagnosis and part order. They tried to use that against me to deny my claim anyway, but I made them come to their senses with some forcefulness.
You must of missed that part of the Forester's review. IMHO that makes the CVT unacceptable. They've got the gimmick down to the point where it's a good gimmick, but it is still Gimmicky.
It's like back in the old days with surround sound, and all those different gimmicky surround formats (hall, concert, theater, and such). All of them were lousy sound quality and Blu-Ray uncompressed Dolby Digital HD or DTS-HD blow them all away.
One article said the turbo had a 10% take rate and the manual sub-model only had a 15% take rate. That means only 1.5% of Foresters rolled off the line with the turbo/manual combo.
I don't have much sympathy for A8 owners. After all, he's probably in the 1% group. What's 6K to him?
I'd be more upset by the depreciation on an A8 than the repair bills.
Awesome ain't cheap, even used.
A8 resale value ranges from merely poor to catastrophic. There's a reason.
In the case of Audi, also (according to some) developing a BMW style image crisis. That will make it all the more painful.
I was 17 at the time. She would have eaten me alive. LOL
I saw one on Carmax a few years ago for around 20K but it has high mileage.
Yea, verily.
When the people who can actually afford cars of this sort recognize that no sane person should own one out of warranty, it's time to set up bleachers and sell popcorn.
The phrase that pays, at least in terms of Audis is "breathtakingly expensive," as posited by Mark many times.
I was 17 at the time. She would have eaten me alive. LOL
Probably, but just think about all the cool things that could have been written in the epitaph on your tombstone...
IMHO I think there are three things that make CVTs unacceptable to you. Those would be the letters C, V, and T. :shades: :shades:
If I didn't know you better from reading your comments over the years I'd conclude that you're a candidate for a nicely depreciated used A8.
Not all used higher end cars are bad, but you really have to be careful. There are some MBs for instance, say an 00-02 S600, that I wouldn't take for free.
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Does Honda offer a real automatic transmission option? I know Audi does.
And yeah, they're still in the Civic, CR-V, and everything else. So far their new CVT is limited to the Accord. I'm assuming if it's successful there it'll be deployed to other models.
DCTs seem to be harder to implement "right" however, at least partially because they're being marketed as "automatics" rather than "automated manuals." The two have a different connotation and a different expectation when it comes to smoothness.
Or in simple terms, a manual transmission without the 3rd pedal.
That's true, but then, how often do you find yourself driving in a way that your:
A) lugging the engine so low that you stall it out.
revving so high that your bouncing off the rev limiter at red-line over and over again.
As I've said before, I have NO problem with it shifting itself as long as it doesn't do so until the red line (every time consistently). I've seen some automatics that shift me well before the red-line and I get mad at that. That is indeed, upsetting. Perhaps the car hasn't been "trained" right, as I do remember the manual saying something about a "learning" transmission in my Audi, that adapts to your style.
Or in simple terms, a manual transmission without the 3rd pedal.
Careful, that's not just blasphemy in the Church Of The Almighty Clutch Pedal, it's actually heresy, and could spark a holy war. :shades:
AND without the gearshift...just those cute little dollhouse buttons. :P