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Mazda5 Owners Accessories & Modifications



  • Great - thank you for the info!
  • Sorry, goatrope, one more question - found the item on eBay, but it says "Plug the cable directly into your car stereo changer port." Our Mazda5 already has a CD changer, so it doesn't seem like this would work for us - does your car also have a CD changer, or did your installer plug it into the CD changer port like SpeedLine indicates?
  • goatropegoatrope Posts: 13
    My 5 came with the 6-CD player from Mazda. In the back of the stereo head unit, there was the unused car stereo changer port, just waiting for the iPod link to be plugged in. (Hint to Mazda USA - there are over 25 million iPods in use now - they are no longer exotic. Why not offer this option from the factory?) And now the CD player still works, and the iPod put an additional 200 CDs @ my fingertips. It's like having a jukebox on wheels.
  • bookishbookish Posts: 9
    We got our Mazda5 about 10 days ago. My husband fell for it immediately and liked "the extra room for our kids and dogs." I personally think it was the 5 speed that sold him. Our daughters are in the second row and the third row seats are down for luggage and animals (immediately behind the second row). Do you think your gate solution might work to prevent luggage from shifting forward and squishing the dogs if a sudden stop was necessary? The gate would probably need to be about 12-18 inches further back than the position you described.
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    Where did they place the Dynamat? That's a very interesting idea.
  • radar1radar1 Posts: 25
    "Hi all--
    I'm zeroing in on buying a Mazda5 and one of my big reasons is that my husband is going to be posted to Europe for a couple of years and we want a car that will fit-in there."

    Having been posted to Europe twice, I would recommend purchasing a European spec vehicle locally once you got there. Even though they have Mazda 5's over there, I don't believe the engines are the same, and many of the parts are not interchangeable. What this means is that the local garages and dealers will not have parts for your US spec vehicle in stock and if you need repairs it will sit for a long time. If you are being posted to the UK, it is even more important to get a local car, otherwise your passenger will be in for a thrilling experience everytime you pull out to pass someone on a 2 lane road.

  • goatropegoatrope Posts: 13
    The Dynamat went in all 4 doors, plus the rear hatch; under the third row seat well (and spare tire/jack compartment) and by the front wheel wells.

    The ambient road, wind and tire noise is now gone. If you are sensitive to that sort of thing, then Dynamat is certainly worth looking at. It's not cheap - I've got about $600 into it so far.
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    Very interesting. Yes indeed, I'd love to have it quieter. How did they get under the 3rd row-did they remove it? Where by the front wheel wells?

    Also, I think there are Dynamat alternatives that I may look into for cost savings. Very interesting indeed, I may play with this some as I've thought about doing something similar. Not only are the panels thin on the 5, but the weather stripping seals seem to be thin. So any improvement would be noticeable I'm sure.
  • goatropegoatrope Posts: 13
    The seats were removed, and the carpets pulled up in order for the dynamat to be installed. Also, the doors were taken apart, as was the rear hatch. Unless you konw where all the hidden plastic clips are, I suggest you have a pro do it. He gave me a two-year no-rattle warranty.
    I agree that the door and hatch weather stripping seals are too thin. Any ideas on how to replace them and still have to doors close properly?
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    Wow, they did go all out. Who did this? An audio dealer? I know where most of the clips are-I have nearly all of the diagrams for the door panels, roof liner, 3rd row seats and flooring. I can probably get the rear door also. I order some Fatmat which is Dynamat alternative and I'll do all of my doors and the rear tire area and see what that does. I'm not interest in the floor because it has like 4" of styrofoam type base under the carpet. Tho this is probably not under the rear seats.

    As for the stripping, not sure. I'd thought about just doubling it up with something the same size as to not intrude much but to add some bulk. I also thought about using that spray expanding foam product to spray into certain shallow areas but that would be messy.
  • Any chance you could share the name of the shop that installed your leather and a contact number?
  • architectarchitect Posts: 1
    I have been told that an electric lift for a 3-wheeled scooter cannot be installed in the Mazda5. Has anyone had such a lift installed? Thank you.
  • partsguy1partsguy1 Posts: 19
    I got my radio the other day and hooked it up today at lunch. I Called Sirius to activate the unit, compliments of the Mazda Promotion in Canada. Sirius customer serice is AWESOME.

    I can't wait to drive home and check out the channels. I have the receiver on the dash right now and if it works, I will just hide the wiring in the side sills.

    Keep you posted.

    Zoom Zoom
  • Thanks to these forums (and goatrope's messages, in particular), I purchased an "Audio Link" iPod adapter via eBay from a store called "Speedline International" in Taiwan. Just search for "Mazda5 ipod" on eBay and it comes up - cost is $109 + $34 shipping from Taiwan. It's not available in the US, for some reason.

    I was a little nervous about buying it just in case it didn't work, but I searched in Google for "Mazda5 ipod" and found a page where a guy had posted photos of how he installed it in his Mazda5. Unfortunately, his comments on the photos were in Japanese, but it showed that it did work.

    I had it installed today (cost $60 for the installation here in Southern Cal.), and it works beautifully - just plug the Audio Link in to the iPod port (not the headphone jack), press the CD button in the car two times to put it on "CD Ex" (for CD changer), and the iPod plays through the stereo using a fully digital hookup. The unit charges the iPod when it's plugged in, and you can use the steering wheel controls to go between songs.

    I have a 2006 Mazda5 Touring which already had an in-dash CD changer, so I was a little concerned about whether it would work. But there's still an empty plug on the back of the radio for an external CD changer, and that's what this plugs into. And the built-in CD changer still works perfectly, too.

    Just wanted to let everyone know - it seems like a better solution than the "Sylfex" solution that provides an audio-in jack, which is analog and doesn't allow for control of the unit via the steering wheel controls.

    Good luck, and thanks, goatrope!
  • goatropegoatrope Posts: 13

    I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed your iPod set-up! It's pretty slick! I also purchased the strut tower bar and the illuminated door sills from Speedline; along with a cold air intake from Cosmo Racing. I am thrilled with the looks and performance of all of these accessories.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 188
    I have no specific expertise about scooters -- I assume you are talking about adapting the 5 to use by physically-challenged people. But I do think I can broaden the context of your question in a way that might help. I suspect the more basic issue is, can the Mazda5 be equipped with a trailer hitch receiver. I don't absolutely know the answer, but I do own a new 5 and the owner's manual here in the USA (and it also appears to be the same manual for English speaking people in Canada and Mexico) clearly states that Mazda forbids the towing of trailers. This means that no Mazda-endorsed aftermarket trailer hitch is available. However, it does not mean that other aftermarket suppliers, not connected to Mazda, do or do not offer hitch receivers. I have spent a few minutes with my head on the ground up underneath the back of my 5 taking a look, and I don't see much in the way of the beefed-up chassis members and brackets that you would use to mount a hitch. But maybe somebody out there has figured this out more than me. (I do know from past ownership of a Nissan Quest, that in that case, every Quest was built at the factory with welded-in hitch mount bolt holes on fairly beefy steel chassis members. The Nissan accessory hitch was a simple bolt-on. That's what I was looking for on my 5, and I didn't see much that looked like the Nissan's provisions.) Sorry... The 5 is a great car with a great future (w/ $3.50 gas) but Mazda USA hasn't been too quick at maximizing its utility -- they seem leery of looking too "minivanish".
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 188
    I can answer my own questions now, so you all get the benefit. I decided to go ahead and buy the Mazda accessory roof rack bars even though I didn't know absolutely every dimension. Now that I have them here at home with a tape measure:

    The front bar structural member has a flat top-side length of 36.6". When the locking plastic covers are mounted there is 31.8" bar length left between the covers. The under-side flat length of the front bar is 33.5".

    The rear bar equivalent measurements are each 1.8" shorter than the above.

    When mounted on the car, the two bars are 32"-33.75" apart fore-aft from each other (insides of bars/outsides of bars). This limits the acceptable dimensions of the indentations and the U-bolts of the cargo box you can mount. But I think my Packasport will fit OK without drilling new U-bolt holes in my box.

    The plastic covers appear to be easy to trim down to smaller size if you want -- but you might compromise the security of the locks. Hard for me to say yet.
  • mazda5fanmazda5fan Posts: 1
    Glad to hear you were able to hook up the Sirius radio, let us know how it works/sounds.

    I'd like to add a Sirius radio to my Mazda 5. Where did you buy yours? Did you buy it from Mazda or from an electronics retailer? I see on sites like Best Buy you can buy a Sirius satellite receiver for specific brands (e.g.Kenwood) but I don't know the maker of the Mazda radio I already have.

    I'd appreciate to hear folks experiences adding a Sirius radio to their Mazda 5's, as well as DVD players. Thanks in advance!
  • partsguy1partsguy1 Posts: 19
    I had a chance to play with the Sirius radio. The unit I got from the dealership is: Asset&cid=1126670687120

    The unit has a built in FM transmitter. You can select any channel you like. I have the GS model CD stereo and the Sirrius is treated like a radio channel. I just tune into the 'transmitted' frequency and I can select the channels I want to listen to on the satllite receiver.

    There really is a huge selection of channels to choose from. The Mazda Canada promotion includes a 1 year subscription. The sound quality is very good, but you can notice a difference btwn the regular radio and the 'transmitted' sound. However, the sound is very acceptable.

    Right now, I have the receiver antenna on the front of my dash, directly inline with the stereo. I tried it onthe right side of the dash, but the signal was dropping more frequently than in the middle of the dash. There is one secion of my commute where the signal drops more frequently that others. Overall, I would peg the reception at about 99.7%.

    I would be interested in hearing from others how they installed their units in their car? Where did you mount the antenna and where do you keep the receiver?

  • Help! How do I route the power cable from the battery to the amplifier. Where is the best place in the firewall to put the 4gauge power wire through? How did you go speaker level?
  • menmy5menmy5 Posts: 12
    --The car did not fit in the garage with the box on.--

    Could you let me know how far above the roof rack the top of the cargo box extends? Until I read your post I assumed given the 16" height of the 1500xt box that it would measure 16" above the cross bars of the rack. Is this the case? If so it will fit in my garage, but I may be missing something -- which I hate to do :)

  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    On the passenger side, behind the dash (from underneath of course) you'll see a rubber gasket. I used a whole punch screw driver to start a whole. I'm only using 10g so it was a smaller hole. FOr 4g you might be there for a while getting a wide enough hole. I then ran it across the car right up to the battery. Inside the car it goes along the floor edge and then there's a channel under the passenger seat that I fed the cable to.

    For speaker level, you need to pop out the radio, and cut the four speaker wires. Run wires from the stereo out to the amp. Then, run wires from the speaker side back out to the amp as well. I didn't touch the rears, so it was only 4 wires (2 for left, 2 for right) make sure they are long enough to route back to under the chair. Then, inputs are from the stereo side, and outputs are on the out put side.

    Goo luck.
  • Thanks a bunch for this great input. Question, How do I know which are the rear speakers cables at the head unit? Any diagrams?

    Thanks a million for your help.
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    Once you do the fronts (take out the speakers in the door and remember their colors) you'll see in the HU they are paired in 4s, so the two that aren't the front door colors are the ear. I recommend NOT doing the rears, but if you must it should be easy to figure out.
  • Thanks again for more input. What is the reasoning behind not doing the rears?
    This is what I have/had planned to do. I am going to find that grommett run my power through it. Then I am going to route it down the passenger side all the way to the rear. I was then going to use the speaker level input, to the amp, to power the sub which will be in the rear. Any reason why I should do the front instead of the rear?

    Please give me any other info & reccommendations you have on installing the Amp/Sub Box. :P
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    Firstly, the most important speakers are the fronts, that's where the sound-stage is. THe rears if you have them, are solely for ambience, for background filler if you will. You are better off using the money on the fronts and not worrying about the rears. Secondly, you'll have to remove the entire 3rd row of seats in order to remove the panel that is back there covering the speakers. Thirdly, and lastly, unless you have a 5 channel amp, or want to waste power from the sub, you can run a 4 channel amp, and bridge channels 3&4 for the sub.

    (I also heard Mazda(?) cripples the rears to put out less wattage and bass anyways, so replacing them would be futile without replacing the HU which is an unnecessary step.

    Not sure if I posted this or not-

  • Thanks for your input again man. Your reasoning is great. Actually makes me want to use the rears. I am going to use the rear speakers because I will be running and amp. That will definitely make it worthwhile, give me a thump and hopefully not disturb (too much) while I pump my music. Thanks a million. I have begun routing the wires... Another question for an amp... How the heck do I take care of the remote turn on at the amp, there is no remote lead at the head unit, HELP.
  • rlyonrlyon Posts: 57
    There is an remote turn on, can't remember the color tho. I have a light tester so I touched all the wires until I had power then turned off the radio. So when the light goes off, there's no power. I'd pick one up if you're near a radio shack or home depot, they're good to half and cheap. Otherwise, not sure how you'd get a remote other then running to the fuse box. You then have to do about the same, look for something labeled that you know turns off with the ignition and slide the wire in the fuse slot. I don't like wiring sticking out of the fuse box so I ran to the HU.

    I would still say not to bother with the rears, mine aren't amped, I still hear them fine and with my sub my system rocks and I lose zero inch of storage/floorspace and I didn't have to drop another $200 on the rear speakers and remove the back seats and the panels, etc when the HU will not put out pure sound to them anyways. You can always dial the fade back towards the rear if you want to hear them.

    But, it's your call :) Why not just do the fronts and see what it sounds like. Then if you must, install the rears?
  • :blush: Thanks Man! I will do that... I am going to just run a cable from the battery to the little panel next to the steering wheel mount a little fused switch there running to the remote turn on at the amp, that will allow me to turn the amp on/off as I please. I will also use the front speakers. The only thing I am concerned with is that I have to splice the cable. Will that interfere with the quality of my front speaker sound output? It sounds really good up there now with the boston acoustic speakers I put in.
  • riproyriproy Posts: 57

    ... with my sub my system rocks and I lose zero inch of storage/floorspace ...

    Where did you install your amp and sub? What brand are they? It would be great not to lose the existing floor space to this equipment.

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