Mazda5 Owners Accessories & Modifications



  • athenasiusathenasius Member Posts: 118
    re net. i have had mine for almost 3 years and use it all the time. I would get them to take it back. When the back seats are down I put the net down (flat- like a blanked)with a clip on each of the 4 loops and stick stuff under net that way they do not fly around. I hear you re the hole in the floor, the second row gap sucks for sure in the rest of the world the middle seat / shared arm rest covers the hole. As for the gap I have one of those pop open circle sun visors that I slip in between if i am worried about the gap and when the dog is in the back and with the middle seats up. Just an fyi if you only have a bunch of groceries the back cover behind the near the hatch is designed to lift up and will slide perpendicular to the floor (about 1/5 of it slides into the floor to contain tuff, and with the slight whole in the plastic area it works great(but if you over stuff it things may fall out when you open the door but I have only ever had a can of tomatoes fall out of a bag and fall out. ps it will not contain heavy item and just flops closed (without damage) i tried to use it to hold my tires lol. with all the seats up you can place it upright against the last row of seats to contain (like and evelope - just remember to clip the snaps together) stuff.

    As for the back cover i had mine stolen and have not gotten a new one yet.
  • abarry90abarry90 Member Posts: 9
    Can't seem to find a roof rack option for the M5. Can it be added to any model? Anyone know the price? Also, didn't see window tinting as an option either. Anyone know if there will be any upcoming dealer incentives? Also, we are set on a manual trans. I am having a hard time specifically pining down what changes were made to the 2009 model. If I see a good deal on a 2008, should I get it or stick with a new 2009?
  • 5_more5_more Member Posts: 43
    The roof rack is an add-on accessory. It fits any model -- even with the sunroof.

    Eight pages of roof rack discussion can be found here:
  • 5_more5_more Member Posts: 43
    Unless the following matters to you, go with the best deal.

    Per Ford:
    New or enhanced for 2009: (Mazda 5)

    * New Liquid Silver exterior color to replace Sunlight Silver (late availability)
    * Sand interior color now available with Stormy Blue and Brilliant Black exterior colors
  • abarry90abarry90 Member Posts: 9
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Yes, I have several digital photos of our Curt hitch on 2006 MZ5 Touring. It's a 1.25" receiver and has been completely satisfactory for bike rack. I'm not sure how to attach photos here-- what's your email?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    SEND YOUR PICS TO idavid76 at yahoo dot com THANKS!
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Can anybody tell me how the OEM navigation system works on a 06 or 07 Mazda 5? How do you get the screen out? When you press the "tilt" button is the screen motorized or is it just on a spring? How do you close it?

    I was thinking about buying the housing and just mounting a portable GPS in it. Has anybody tried this yet? Would it work?

  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Maybe you've already tried this... if you own the car, you could read the last ~25 pages of the owners manual, which describe the OEM Nav system. My 5 does not have Nav but I am a fairly curious techno-geek so I've tried to skim the pages just for fun. But they are not my favorite tech manual writing, and I found it hard to follow without having something to play along with.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    My 40-year-long habit of carrying all of my keys on one key ring, is not proving very pleasingly compatible with Mazda5 ownership. After 2 1/2 years, the Mazda key's plastic ring-mount location has broken and the key can no longer be attached to a keyring. The Mazda dealer says this is normal wear-and-tear and not considered warranteed at this point. The parts department sells only whole new keys which cost something like $200+. What alternatives do I have? This is something that doesn't just bug me everytime I drive the Mazda, it also happens everytime I drive our other car, or open the front door of our house, or my desk at work, or change my pants, or... You get the idea. I am NOT going to spend $200 every couple years just to buy a new replacement car key. The weak link in the key where the little metal ring passes through the fob, should have been made of metal, which Mazda probably saved 2 cents, by making out of chrome-plated plastic. Yuck / Arrrghhhh / what to do now?
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Our 2006 5 has developed a very annoying habit, of the left-rear sliding door not unlocking when we try to unlock all the doors by pushing the key fob button twice. (yes, the 3 other doors and tailgate do unlock). The interior door panel lock sliding knob on the LR door does move, but not quite far enough to unlock the door. This is the door you most want to unlock, when you arrive at the car solo and want to put in your briefcase or other junk, on a back seat. Our dealer has had the car twice, attempting to fix it, a total of 3 days spent overnight at the shop. The first visit, they claimed to be unable to ever duplicate the problem. Which could well be true, but this was after the problem had intermittently occurred for both me and my wife, dozens of times over several months. The second visit, they did see the problem, and "replaced inner door handle". Yet, the problem is still occasionally recurring. Another 2006 5, owned by friends, reportedly has precisely the same problem. Any parallel experiences out there? Any 100% successful fixes??
  • stillageekstillageek Member Posts: 114
    eBay...or get a quick release keychain device so you can remove the Mazda key when you start it or when needed. You can get a key off eBay for under $30. you have the Mazda key ON another key ring or other keys attached to the Mazda key? I only carry my Mazda key, house key, safe key and a old stick of computer memory (a DIMM, makes it hard to loose the keys) on a metal key ring. No issues.
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Yup. I already read the manual but I was hoping somebody that actually has the NAV system would post a video or something on how it works. I wouldn't mind spending the money on the housing/bezel if I knew what I was getting myself into. I can't even go to a dealer to look at the new ones because they have changed and put the NAV in the center console.

    Anybody out there have one?
  • athenasiusathenasius Member Posts: 118
    i have had the same issue. there is a fix or it someone on here awhile back had the issue and had it fixed. it has something to do with the inner linkage. if you stand next to the door and keep pressing the key fob you can hear what ever it is that is loose. not sure how you can search on old messaged on here sorry. need to get mine sorted out too before the warranty runs out. the other door has started to do it also. try to see if it happens on colder mornings withthe car or on a front lower and first thing in the morning.

    sorry i am not more help. but if you listen to it you can hear what ever is loose kind of knocking like a ball bearing on a string kind of sound as it does an extra bounce lol
  • athenasiusathenasius Member Posts: 118
    well if anyone knows the part numbers i would love to replace mine and even make an extra cubby hole for stuff
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Nothing on you tube either. There has to be a way of looking up the part number on the internet. I really HATE the local dealer, I stay away!

  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I'm still confused. Search for "Mazda key" on eBay auto parts & accessories finds nothing.

    I want to have one set of key junk with everything attached and never think about adding or subtracting bits to it. Just "yes I have keys" or "no I don't". That's been my 40 year habit so I can't change now. It can be chains or ring(s) or nylon straps or carabiniers or whatever in any necessary number, so long as it all hangs together.

    I have been using the small Mazda 3/8" diameter metal ring that came attached to the fob, and then putting my own key ring thru the 3/8" ring. Nothing else directly attached to the Mazda key.
  • dfalkdfalk Member Posts: 1
    We had the same problem back in Aug. I just signed up and saw your notes.
    We had the Door Actuator replaced. Mazda part#C245-72-350.
    The problem has not happened since.

    Good luck.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    thanks -- I tried again at a second dealer, and I got a new actuator too. All well for 2 weeks now.
  • blynmazda5blynmazda5 Member Posts: 20
    I'd like to replace the factory 6 cd radio on my AT Mazda 5 and install Metra Dashkit 99-7509. The salesman at the store told me his supplier told him that the Metra dash kit for the Mazda 5 only fits on the manual transmission models.

    Has anyone installed the Metra dashkit?

    Any feedback would be appreciated.

  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I've got an MT MZ5 (2006) and it sure stumps me off the top of my head what the problem would be causing what you were told. I don't like how my hand motions, shifting to 1st gear, can inadvertently cause me to turn of the climate control. But the radio is further away from the shifter than the HVAC.... I'll be interested to see if any helpful comments emerge (I know this one isn't!)
  • blynmazda5blynmazda5 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the feed back whobodym.

    I think I may have misunderstood the salesperson on the phone. At first he asked me about whether I had automatic climate control. I was confused by the question and said I had automatic transmission. He then told me he would ask around for me and that I should check online.

    After I posted I searched and found this link

    and on the link it said that

    Premium Kit 99-7509 2007 Mazda Mazda5 (models with manual climate)
    # - Major Modifications may be Required

    Perhaps there is an issue with the dash kit and manual climate controls.

    Thanks again for the feedback.

  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Ah, you figured it out better than I did. Our 5 has Auto Climate Control (Touring model, not Sport). The 3 big circular HVAC dial/buttons might be a larger/different size than the manual HVAC. And ours has a 4th little rectangular black button, for the ambient temperature display, so the slot at the bottom of the HVAC control panel is different too.

    Do you suppose the kit you're reading about has a more durable finish than the Mazda silver stuff? Ours already looks a little scuffed after only 2 years.
  • mdchachimdchachi Member Posts: 275
    I have the nav system in a 2006. The screen is motorized. Press the Open button once to close. Press it again to open. But in normal operation I keep it "open" in which case it will automatically close when turning the vehicle off and automatically reopen when starting the car again.

    So unless the wires are just sitting there in the dash, it might be difficult to retrofit. On the other hand, you could just leave it in the open position.
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Wow, I thought it was spring loaded and you had to actually push it closed. Thanks for the post. Any idea if the 5 is prewired? Or how much work it would be to wire? My guess is that it would be easy to fit in a aftermarket GPS system if the housing wasn't PIA to install.

    Maybe somebody has the directions they could post? I thought the DVD navigation was a dealer installed option, maybe it was a factory only option?

  • a101a101 Member Posts: 9
    Hello Everyone,

    Could anyone share their experience with the remote engine starter kits for M5? Is the one from the dealership the best thing or an after market one? Good recommendations for any specific model/make?
  • jonat1xjonat1x Member Posts: 34
    It seems to me, in an era of peak oil and global warming, that a remote engine starter is a gizmo that one might reasonable dispense with.
  • a101a101 Member Posts: 9
    Good point joant1x :D

    However, its only 2 - 3 minutes of extra engine ON time (less than 2% of overall engine ON). By getting a Mazda5 and not a Sienna or Odyssey with V6, I think we have earned somewhat of a carbon credit that can be applied towards this. :shades:

    With a newborn and around freezing temps for 5 months here in Utah, I don't feel bad about using the convenience of a remote Engine Starter.

    Anyone with suggestions for a good model/unit for M5?
  • jonat1xjonat1x Member Posts: 34
    Fair observations, but of course a cold engine is at its least efficient. I don't know how long you've owned the car, but one of the things that has struck me about it is how much more quickly the cabin warms up than was the case with our former vehicle, a 99 Windstar.

    The remote starter is not a device that I know a great deal about but presumably you know that Mazda offers one for the 5? MSRP is $300 but I found it at Med Center Mazda in AL for $253 plus shipping.
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Has anybody gotten the dealer to fix the crunching noise that comes from the suspension in cold weather? I have a 2007 and I know that they issued a TSB for 2006's. The dealer would not provide a fix because the TSB was not for my year and of course by the time I got my car to the dealer it was warmed up and the crunch was gone. They asked me to keep it there for a couple days so they could hear it but I can't give my car up because of my schedule (dropping off kids, picking them up, etc). Anybody else having this problem? Better yet, anybody else found a solution?
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Here is some so-so quality help. Our 5 is a 2006 Touring 5MT. We had a lot of the suspension crunchy noise our first winter with the car ('06-'07). I associated it with colder weather as you do, but also with rain. I think it has to do with the anti-roll bar rubber bushings. This is the place where, on a bump that is equal for both wheels on an axle, the bar just swivels back and forth inside the bushings and doesn't act with any force on the wheels. In my own imagination at least, the wet cold rubber gets "squeakier", just like certain pairs of your shoes, when walking on linoleum floors when you come in from the wet, can be really noisy. We did have the SB work done on our car 1-2 years ago, and it was relatively successful. Our original problem clearly seemed to be coming from the front suspension. Now however, there seems to be quite similar noise effects coming from the rear suspension. The problem is likely something quite similar. I've been too lazy to try to work on this myself, or take it back to the dealer, but it certainly seems promising to be worth working on. I'm going to stay lazy though -- 3 years old is about the point where car noises stop bothering me and I just get used to them. And assuming the analogy about the wet shoes is exact, the problem is purely annoying and completely harmless to safety and durability. The one firm piece of advice I'd give you is, if you do try the dealer, don't accept that stuff about no SB for 2007 models. That sounds like a total cop-out to me.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Or if your mechanically inclined and are willing to get you back and hands a little dirty and screw the dealer all together. Just buy the two $8 or so pair of bushings and install them yourself. The rear ones are particularly way easier to get to then the front ones.

    On a side note, I guess you can take the darn rear stabilizer bar completely off and never have to worry about another crunching sound in the rear.....LOL!
  • riproyriproy Member Posts: 57
    Lots of experience on this topic under the suspension forum. Our 06 is going to have parts replaced for the 4th time next Monday for this same problem. Bushings were replaced at least 2 of 3 previous times - no joy. Taking the rear sway bar off may be my next step. Still won't cure the front end however.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I'd be extremely reluctant to remove any anti-roll (sway) bar permanently. The 5 in my experience is an excellent handling vehicle, and corners very well. Especially so considering that it rides quite well, not harshly, too. You do not want to change the carefully engineered stability and response of a vehicle that you may depend on in high speed emergency maneuvers someday.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    thanks for the encouragement. I hadn't taken the time to look at the rear setup yet. It's definitely worth $8 -- I'm the kind of guy who changes my own oil because I enjoy it, not to save money.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    No problem. After reading all these noise problems with the sway bars (front and rear) and actually hearing a little coming from mine from the rear after a couple of rainy days (which by the way, to second someone's post earlier the noise also happens on wet weather not just cold temperatures). I got down underneath the rear suspension only to discover that the bushings are not that hard to get to and with the help of the printable service bulletin from here to change the first set (as I am sure we will have to do it more than once) it should be a breeze.

    My other sugestion was to remove the rear sway bar and then you wount have to hear the crunch from the rear ever. Someone said it may affect the handling but I highly doubt anyone will notice the small change unless they are carting the thing around and pushing the suspension to its limits. The front sway bar is the main bar that shouls always stay in place because it is the thicker one and the one that controls the front suspension and for the most part the entire vehicle's dynamics.

    I used to own a 2004 Nissan Frontier in which I removed my rear sway bar entirely to have better articulation on the rear suspension when I went off-roading and I never even noticed a change in stability when driving it on a normal basis in freeways and surface streets, I know that this may be comparing apples to oranges in regards to the two different vehicles, but who knows, maybe removing the rear sway bar (for those who just can take it anymore with the rear crunching noise) may not make a difference either in our MZ5's.

    Is there after market companies that perhaps make polyurethane bushings instead of the OEM rubber ones???

    I know Energy Suspension makes these types of bushings, but they do not make them for our MZ5s.
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for all the posts. After going into the dealer with the 2006 TSB (I have a 2007) they said they could not do the work because the TSB was NOT for my year car. However, he promised that they (the dealer) would contact me if an updated TSB that included my car was issued. The one you linked seemed to be for my car, I'll have to check my VIN number tomorrow. How do you find the TSB's? Is there a way to look them up?

    Also, did the fix provided in the TSB actually work or is it a waste of time?

  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Rosenthal Mazda does a pretty good job updating the most crucial TSB's issued for all Mazda vehicles. Click on the link and scroll all the way down and you will see at the bottom left corner of the webpage the list of service bulletins by type of vehicle.

    I think you should try another Mazda dealer that is willing to help you because the TSB should also apply to 2007 MY MZ5s.

    I cannot attest to the rear sway bar bushing replacement fixing the problem because I have never gotten it done, since mine only crunches a tiny bit when it rains and immediately goes away after it dries up. Replacing the fronts however, did fix my "knocking" sound when going up or down a driveway or anytime the road was uneven. I never had the "crunch" noise.
  • a101a101 Member Posts: 9
    Isn't this post related to mods and accessories?
    Lets focus and post messages related to those here...
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    WOW! someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed. Sorry for trying to help a fellow MZ5 owner, regardless of thread tittle. You should be posting your comment on "Rants and Complaints"'s not one, maybe you should start one.
  • denindenin Member Posts: 1

    I own a Mazda 5. It's radio looks like this one: . I would like to remove the cassette deck cover to place a magnet behind, put it back and use it for sticking my Mio GPS onto it by the magnet. Could you please describe the way how I can remove the deck's cover? Can it be removed from the front without dismounting all the stuff around?

    I would be pleased if you answered my post!

    Thank you very much!

  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Unfortunately denin, I believe you will have to remove the shifter knob, shifter bezel, both left and right center panels to get to the two screws holding down the center radio bezel. You may want to contact you local Mazda dealer and get a print out of the "installation instructions" for installing an iPod interface module. These instructions will walk you step by step on how to remove the radio. Good luck!
  • marlonchwomarlonchwo Member Posts: 9

    I am in Toronto, and got a 2006 of Mazda 5. I am looking for the rear wiper insert, but have no luck in local Walmxxx or Caxxxxxx Tixx. May anyone let me know where can I get the replacement? Thanks.

  • jonat1xjonat1x Member Posts: 34
    Why not go to a Mazda dealer? If that is not convenient, Med Center Mazda in AL has an extremely helpful mail order service - Unlike the front blades, which are entirely generic (I have Michelin refills on my '08) the rear wiper is specific to the vehicle and I think yuo are stuck with Mazda OEM.
  • athenasiusathenasius Member Posts: 118
    I think it is about 10 dollars at the dealer. Remember you will have to pay duty and exchange from the US sites so the $9US will become over $11 then plus shipping and duty will cost you way more than getting one from the dealer . I just pull off the rubber and cut one to fit( I usually use one of the front ones and move the metal retainer from one to the other.

    But for the 10 minutes that takes it may be easier to just buy one from the dealer.

    PS do not just get the rubber only(from the dealer) for the back as it costs more than the assembled one.
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    Did anybody try to put a computer (PC) inside a M5? Where would be the better place to mount it? I'm thinking like a MSI Wind or the like.
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2007 Mazda 5 with 30,000 on it. I just started noticing a valve tapping noise from the engine in all temps and a noisy belt in cold weather. Anybody else have this? It is a big difference from the car I test drove and actually hit the started while the engine was already running. I couldn't tell it was on!
  • cooppoopcooppoop Member Posts: 26
    Anybody tried putting on the potenza grids? I read good things about them and they actually have a mileage warranty.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    The tapping noise can be subjective, however, mine has what I would say is a normal range of noise coming from the valves, nothing outrageous or out of the ordinary but definately loud enough to hear lightly.

    As far as the drivebelt, I also get a whinning noise (not squealing) when it is raining, perhaps from the water that gets the belt wet and makes the noise when going through the pulleys. Once it is dry it goes away completely.

    What mine does that I don't know if anyone elses does, is a weird whining noise similar to the wet drivebelt from the A/C compressor when first turned on, possible for the first 10-30 seconds. Anyone else experience this???
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