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Comments
Al
One of the causes of the wind noise was running the a/c on fresh air. The fresh air being forced into the cab pushes the frail latches and windows open causing wind noise. So how does the new frame direct the air flow away...not some kind of spoiler or wing?
Sounds like what Ronnie Reagan told Gorbachev,
"Trust...but verify!"
Next i had the trans update and there is a noticable difference already it feels (drives) so much better very very smooth. Shifting is like silk.
I was very impressed i got to stay in the service area the whole time. Afterwards i realized the guy who worked on the truck was my grandmas neighbor. He has worked as a chevy tech for 20 odd years.
Thanks dean for your help.
Great experience and my truck is even better now
Ryan
bco
I thought it was one of the hard to find problems because it would come and go. My wife has a tendency to close the vents. I just never connected the two. Duh....
Thanks,
Randy
I recently purchased a Indigo Blue 2000 Silverado LS, with Ext Cab, 4 dr, 4wd, 5.3l, 4.10 rear end, 4sp Auto, Autotrac, P245/75R16 ALT WOL tires, and Bucket seats. Window sticker was $30,553 (=MSRP+Destination). I paid taxes on $26,186 and then got a $1000 rebate. I bought mine on August 31 and took what the dealer had on his lot.
Edmunds’ and Kelly Blue Book’s (http://www.kbb.com/) websites can give you the MSRP and Invoice price. GM will let you build one at http://www.chevrolet.com/silverado/index.htm but when I was shopping, they only showed MSRP. Check dealer websites and cars.com type sites, as they will let you ‘build’ one and see MSRP and Invoice both. That way you get an idea on what each option is going to cost you.
Edmunds and others will give you information on rebates and incentives, currently none for 2001 Silverados. They will also give some guidance on determining a price. “Dealer Holdback” was a ‘new’ term from when I last bought a new vehicle (1993). Dealer Holdback is money manufacturers refund to dealers to cover financing their inventory and supposedly reduces the dealers cost to something below Invoice. Most sites will say a dealer should be satisfied with 2-3% profit on each vehicle they sell. Keep in mind that supply and demand can alter the price significantly. But this should work for a vehicle is good supply with reasonable demand. My rule of thumb was the bigger the ‘rebate’ the smaller the demand.
In six months of research the formula came down to this: Base Invoice for the vehicle + Invoice for selected options – 3% for Dealer Holdback (# for Chevy, others maybe different) + 3% for “fair” dealer profit + Destination Charge. Or the short form: Base Invoice + Options Invoice + Destination Charge = Target Price. Note this DOES NOT include any rebate. Dealers will try to include rebates in any price they quote you. You may think they are meeting or beating your Target Price but are really taking money out of your pocket. Be very clear on where/when any rebate is applied. Also, be very careful when selecting a low rate financing over a cash rebate. The finance guy tried to convince me to take the 6.9% over my credit union’s 7.9% by saying I’d save $400 in interest charges. True, but I’d have to pay extra the $1000 from the rebate and with interest would have actually cost me about $800 more!
I used this formula as my Target Price to pay. I got mine for a little less, but as I said I bought my on the last day of the month, toward the end of the model year, and took what the dealer had on his lot.
Good luck!
for those shopping...if you can get a dealer to "dip into" or sacrifice his holdback...chances are it's a vehicle he's looking to dump for one reason or another. maybe it's a 2000 and the 2001's are arriving on his lot. maybe it's late december and he's looking to avoid paying tax on it. or, maybe it's got vibration or other problems that caused others not to buy it...
bco
OR
Open the glove box all the way, reach in to get at the tabs and pull the entire vent assembly out.
Hope your problem is as simply as that.
Randy
ryan
Glad everything turned out ok. Wish I could have done the same and wait in the service department...only thing, I couldn't afford to stay the three days or more its going to be in the shop...LOL!!
Pisses me off that I had a great truck with no weird noises or problems and it has to get totaled. Then I get a 2001 and this noise is going to make me INSANE!!!
Travis
Other posts on this are very good. I took the easy way and said I'd be happy in early Sept to get a 2001 LT with everything for $49 over invoice and they show me the invoice. I called a dealer 60 miles away from home, but where I have to take the kids for soccer and said,"here's the way I will buy a truck this far from home, do you want to do the deal?" It took them 4 nsec to agree. Made me mad I didn't ask for more, but I am happy.
Anyone having hard downshifts when making a california stop? Does the brake pedal feel a little mushy for 4 wheel discs?
matthew
They used to lock up going over small bumps. They rarely do it now
Ryan
A.R.E. OWNERS: ARE has come out with an automatic lock for the tailgate/cover. Some modifications to the handle assembly and run wires to the front kickpanel. WORKS GREAT WITH THE FACTORY REMOTE.
The kit works with both the lid and cap.
Randy
Nick
I think we ordered the same thing. I also ordered a 2001 Silverado 2500HD Ext. Cab 4x4 LS 6.0L 4.10....I ordered mine on 9/15/00...it got allocated 9/29/00 (black paint made it take longer)....GM acceptd my order on 10/4/00....I have a TPW of 10/30/00....and I should maybe get mine the second week of November....Keep me updated on yours that way I know what to expect on mine....Thanks
I've been trying to follow your posts concerning you taking your truck back to the dealer for some fix'em up.
I'll be taking mine in Tuesday about some concerns/issues, like a rattle in the dash right in front of the driver, tire scrub during turns, and a few pops and klunks throughout truck.
Could I ask you to in one massive post list what were your concerns/issues that you took to your dealer? I'm especially interested in you having your tranny reprogramed. I'm also wanting to hear about your rattle that you had in your dash that you fixed with paper towels. Where exactly was it and how you'd get to it (take dash off)?
These posts go on forever and it's a bear trying to find that one particular post that you're looking for with the answer that you been hunting.
I know it's asking a lot and probably take a lot of time but I would really appreciate it (might mention you in my Will).
Thanks, Mitch
Dash rattle - first i used paper towel to see if it helped it did i removed and added foam. Forst that didnt work so i got thicker foam. It worked.
Heres what i did. Popped out dash very easy to do. Above the oil pressure gauge is where my noise came from. I added a strip of tape backed foam (1/2"-3/4" thick) about 5-6 inches long above that area (black behind the instrument cluster) Closed the dash up and havent heard the noise in about 4 wks.
Tranny - My truck seemed to hesitate (go on and on) between first and second. Dragged on didnt want to shift. I knew of a computer update. My truck was in for an engine noise which is not a problem just an echo thats another story. I also asked ( i knew of the updates) if i could get the update. They checked my software and found there was an update. They just downloaded it from the computer to my truck and thats it. The thing shifts smoother now. It also accelerates from 1st to second much better. Seems quicker. The overdrive also doesnt activate till between 50 and 60 mph instead of between 30 and 40.
I know this was brief. If you need any more info please email me i will help to the best of my ability. Also if you want i could possibly (kinda hesitant) take a pic of the dash and exactly where to put the foam. Kinda scared to take dash apart again but if you need a better visual (rather than words i know thats hard to understand).
Hope i helped slightly
Ryan
Also, I ask one more time then leave it alone, has anyone had experience in removing the headliner in the Y2K 2500 LT? I still need to install that antenna.
John
I'm pretty sure that the bolt pattern is different. The studs are further apart on the Ford I think. Some will correct me if I'm wrong.
Hope this helps Richard Mc
http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/GM/PDF/460029.pdf
Hope this helps anyone with "dash" rattles
www.picturetrail.com/careyace
Hope you all enjoy,Andrew
Ryan,
On your email address, is that a alphabetical o or a numerical 0? Sent you mail and it came back.
M.
I have this great picture in my mind of GM technicians doing wind tunnel tests to determine air turbulence on the outside of the rear windows at speed. Surely a more positive catch would solve inside pressure.
Does anyone see a difference with a 2001 latch? I thought someone mentioned the new one is metal, but the design of the latch seems to lack a positive snap to close tightly. This latch/window problem seems to be costing GM a few bucks because of initial cheap design--cheap as in crappy.
Cheers, Al
Thanks again
Tom
Tom
about when you accelerate (reasonabley, not hard)
back up? Does it tend to downshift back into 3rd
easier with the new flash, or about the same.
Reason I ask is because my highway commute usually
runs 65mph, but there are many places that I slow
to 40-50 for a bit then back up to65 and was wondering it I would now be downshifting into 3rd rather than staying in overdrive.
Basically, is the only thing that changed the mph for that first shift into overdrive? Downshifting or slowing down then accelerating are the same as before the flash?
Does anyone know if the newer 2001 arrive with the updated shift point or do they still (for mileage
reasons) shift early and are only flashed if they have the growl or the customer requests it?
thanks
RYan
My '99 has had abslutely none of the problems that have been written about on this board. And I am picky.
Richard
John
bco
Rear quarter windows. Did you try and push outward on the window with the latch locked? Curious cause everyone I've seen, push on 'em and you can make an opening of at least 1/8" without even trying. Now if you were to really lean into it....
Scott
Ryan
..... - Tim
Dean
bco
Ryan
Dean - pull a dukes and weld em shut.
Ryan