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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Let me guess, the airbag light flashes two times, pauses, flashes three times, pauses. This cycle repeats itself three times, then the light stays on. You might want to see if your horn and cruise control works. If they don't, then a device called a "clock spring" in the steering column is broken. This device apparently supplies power to everything in the steering wheel. Mine broke back in the summer. It cost about $100 at the dealership to fix.
The other "problem" you mentioned is not one at all. There is a program in the on board computer that kicks the Powerstroke into a high idle if left unattended for a length of time. The length of time is shorter the colder the engine. I believe International did this to help keep up engine temperature, oil pressure and to help prevent "wet stacking", I think that's what it's called. I've never noticed mine doing it in hot weather, but does it all the time when it's cold. The idle speed should return to normal when you touch the accelerator, brake or clutch pedals. I like the feature, that way you don't have to worry about the engine when you leave it for a few minutes. Also keeps the cab nice and toasty on those really cold days.
On a side note; What do you think of your truck so far?
About the air bag, you got me on that one. Your problem sounded just like mine at first. I've never fooled with an air bag system before, and don't plan on it either.
I had a '97 F-150 with this problem (along with many others), they fixed it in the body shop by removing the old solder and re-sealing it, seemed to work fine. You should not have to pay for this! It is a very common problem in the F-150.
Thanks for the info!
premium care ESP from ford. I traded mine with 27000 mi. If I would of kept mine, I would of bought the ESP from ford. But the interest rates were down, I didn't loose out on my trade, so I did it. I now have a better Ford Dealer then before.
(p.s. don't know if this is good or bad, but at times I work with your brother John.)
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Top 25 Best and Worst Vehicles
The Center for Auto Safety analyzed complaints made to the government by Americans having problems with their vehicles. Below are the models that received the fewest complaints, and those that received the most. Models introduced in 2000 and 2001 are not represented due to a lack of data.
Best (Fewest complaints) Worst (Most complaints)
1. Ford F-Series 1. Mazda MPV
2. BMW 3 Series 2. Kia Sportage
3. BMW 5 Series 3. Ford Excursion
4. Volkswagen Golf 4. Ford Windstar
5. Mazda Truck 5. Mercury Cougar
6. Volvo C70 6. Volvo S40
7. Volkswagen Beetle 7. Honda Passport
8. Nissan Sentra 8. Honda S2000
9. Infiniti G20 9. Mitsubishi Eclipse
10. Acura RL 10. Isuzu Rodeo
11. Saab 9-5 11. Ford Explorer
12. Chevrolet Prizm 12. Land Rover Range Rover
13. Toyota Corolla 13. Audi A6
14. Infiniti QX4 14. Hyundai Tiburon
15. Nissan Altima 15. Honda Odyssey
16. Lexus RX300 16. Lincoln LS
17. Nissan Maxima 17. Jeep Grand Cherokee
18. Acura TL 18. Volkswagen Passat
19. Saab 9-3 19. Buick LeSabre
20. Pontiac Bonneville 20. Suzuki Grand Vitara
21. Mazda Millenia 21. Chevrolet Blazer
22. Mazda 626 22. Chevrolet Impala
23. Lincoln Town Car 23. Toyota Tundra
24. Ford Focus 24. Dodge Dakota
25. Honda Accord 25. Dodge Neon
There are many companies that offer extended warranties. This one offers a 10 year plan.
http://1sourceautowarranty.com/
I haven't purchased one yet but 1Source looks prety good.
This site has a list of extended warranty providers, and also rates them.
http://www.autowarrantyreviews.org/index.html
Hope this helps.
Anyone else heard of this??
There are several, more likely, causes for the leakage..
Here's some text from the Ford Technical Service manual on the Rear axle/diff section.
---------------------------
Analysis of Leakage
Clean up the leaking area enough to identify the exact source.
A plugged axle housing vent can cause excessive pinion seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup.
Make sure axle lubricant level is 9.525 mm (3/8 inch) below the bottom of the fill hole.
Axle Vent
Note:
If a plugged vent cannot be cleared, install a new one.
A plugged vent will cause excessive seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. If a leak occurs, check the vent. Make sure the vent hose is not kinked. Remove the hose from the vent nipple and clear the hose of any foreign material. While the hose is removed, pass a length of mechanics wire or a small diameter Allen wrench in and out of the vent to clean it. Connect the hose when done.
Flange Yoke Seal
Leaks at the axle drive pinion seal originate for the following reasons:
l Seal was not correctly installed.
l Poor quality seal journal surface.
Any damage to the seal bore (dings, dents, gouges, or other imperfections) will distort the seal casing and allow leakage past the outer edge of the axle drive pinion seal.
The axle drive pinion seal can be torn, cut, or gouged if it is not installed carefully. The spring that holds the axle drive pinion seal against the pinion flange can be knocked out and allow leakage past the lip.
The rubber lips can occasionally become hard (like plastic) with cracks at the oil lip contact point. The contact point on the pinion flange may blacken, indicating excessive heat. Marks, nicks, gouges, or rough surface texture on the seal journal of the pinion flange will also cause leaks.
Metal chips or sand trapped at the sealing lip can also cause oil leaks. This can cause a wear groove on the pinion flange and heavy pinion seal wear.
When a seal leak occurs, install a new seal and check the vent and the vent hose to make sure they are clean and free of foreign material.
--------------------------------
Thanks for info on warranties - still not sure if spending money for this is wise
They replaced every front end component there is, some of them 2 and 3 times. Still clunks and pops, still squeaks.
Rear end / transfer case:
After the dealer "Fixed" it for the original clicking, it developed a vibration. No they didn't fix the clicking either. After two more trips and a month of waiting they fixed the clicking. Still has the vibration. After several months trying to fix the vibration they now say they will not drive it 75 mph to get it to the point that it makes the vibration. This is after they had already drove it that fast at least 3 times! Bottom line, they screwed it up and can't fix it.
Now the rear axle and/or springs are screwed up. There is a very bad shuttering upon acceleration and it is terrible pulling a load. There is also a severe axle wrap going on, its like they are made of lasagna noodles. I will not even pull my boat right now, let alone my travel trailer.
Now the only good part of this story.
After 2 years of complaining at the service people and service manager, and after writing to Ford customer no-service, I finally got to talk to the owner of the dealership. To my amazement he new quite a bit about my situation. What ticked me off was they were not doing anything on there own to make the "customer job one", or putting "Quality First". I had to keep on complaining.
Finally, they got Ford to contribute $5000 toward me getting a new truck. The dealer is selling the truck to me at $500 over invoice, they say it is only about $200 over invoice, .... RIIIIGHT!
It is true, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Well not always. I'm still very agitated to say the least. The owner has said that Ford has done this for several people because of problems they have had with the early Super Duties. ???
The 02 F250 XLT, White over Silver, 4x4, V10, SC, 3.73 is due in about 6 weeks.
Also the list says: "Models introduced in 2000 and 2001 are not represented due to a lack of data," then it lists the Tundra at 23 being the Truck with the most complaints. Wasn't the tundra introduced in 2000 and 2001? Should it not be represented?
Regards
*********************************
Consumer advocate publishes annual safety rating of cars
Relevancy: 95 Byline: JONATHAN D. SALANT; Associated Press Writer Category: Financial Pub. date: 01-29-2002 Word Count: 3K
WASHINGTON (AP) Looking to buy a new car this year? The Saturn L scores best among family sized cars in eight categories, including safety features and crash tests, according to a veteran consumer advocate. The Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest are
I'm NOT a master mechanic, but you're describing exactly what happened to me. Might be a good idea to have it looked at.
Just a reminder that every Thursday you can join the Subaru Crew for a chat session from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Stop in to talk about Subaru or just to say hello! Either way, I hope to see you there!
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Fill up with regular, and keep the fuel topped off for a few days..
Doing the opposite can be disasterous.. putting gasoline in a diesel engine. That takes more work to correct..
fuel pump: wont hurt anything, wont clog and diesel lubricates just fine.
fuel lines: no harm
fuel filter: It wont clog it.
injectors: the diluted diesel wont have any problem getting through injectors
spark plugs/ignition: if the diesel concentration is too high, the plugs could foul, and the only result is the car would run rough. In your case you might get a little smoke from the exhaust.
cat. converter: If you were to do this for a very long time, then you could reduce the life of the cat.
There are alot of vehicles out there that when the piston rings or lifter seals go bad, cause the engine to 'burn oil'. Some vehicles burn a little oil. Burning a little diesel is no worse than that..
Relax..
Also, the high octane will make NO difference.
I don't know how you maintain the truck, but I would start with a clean air filter, then new plugs and wires. Fluid changes could help also, especially if you also change the thermostat. A bad thermostat could cause the engine to run too cold for the computer to allow the torque convertor to lock up. Check the brakes to make sure none are dragging. Did the mileage start going down recently, or has it always been this way? It could be that you just happen to have a thirsty engine.
i thought i'd try here.
while applying stainguard to my 2002 truck i found a small piece of blue plastic under the
front seat. its a small rectangular shape with a ring on one end and a circuit board type
connector on the other. it says VTP on it. under the dash is what looks like the female
plug in for this. its black and also says VTP. what does this do? does it have something
to do with the tow package? should i leave this plugged in?
thanks for any advice you have
-slp77
What model truck do you have? F150 thru F750? What trim level: XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch? What kind of cab: regular, extended, crew? What body style? Short bed: step side, style side, s-crew? Long Bed? Chassis Cab?
Any other options would be helpful as well.
I am happy with the truck overall, but there are a few things I am not too pleased with. First on my list is the upper & lower ball joints. My 250 LD has 90k on the clock, and it has had 4 sets of upper & lower ball joints. Has any one had similar problems?
Second issue, which just developed today, I came to a stop sign and just as I was stopped, (auto tranny) my engine almost stalled, the tach read below 500 RPM and then it jumped to 1000 then below 500 then to 1000 and finally settled at about 700RPM. It did the same thing at every stop I made until I got home. Any ideas? I am thinking a shift solenoid is starting to act up, but am not familiar with the new electronic vehicles.
Any help on these issues would be great. Thanks.