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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
I was wondering what does your truck experience when the Torque Converter needs replacing?
Can someone tell me the signs and symptoms??
Don't see anything obviously wrong with the latches, etc. But I'm starting to notice a correlation between bad roads/speed bumps and the tailgate. Feel kinda silly going back to dealer with this one ...."yeah sure buddy, your tailgate locks by itself"
The stiffness I think was the locking mechanism being driven by the handle opening.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Pickups.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owners Clubs
Why don't I have brushed aluminum like normal fords?
What kind of florring do you have? XLT is carpet, XL is rubber/plastic. I don't think you could option carpet in an XL.
My guess is that someone trashed the tailgate and got the first one they could that matched the truck color.
However, Mechanic decided on one last test and drove over to rutted gravel parking lot. It locked on him every time he hit a certain pot hole. They ended up replacing the handle mechanism, both latches, and one of the "rods" in gate. They think possibly I had something get caught in latch when closing gate which may have deformed the rod allowing things to lock up easier.
Of course they were lazy: called me at noon to say they were done, but I needed to use a different key for the gate. Told them it was Unacceptable! So an hour job took them all day, till they were able to get someone to recore the replacement lock cylinder for my current key. Don't think they'll break even on that warranty repair from Ford.
Bounced the heck outta the truck on the way home and gate didn't lock by itself.
I have read other message boards by Ford owners with the same problem. I have not seen any posting yet on this board. Anyothers have similar experiences. I would like to know the outcome and if anyone has covered this under any lemon laws.
Thank you
Didn't really buy into the "wouldn't hurt" line, but per his advice I've been making conscious effort for past several months to make sure I turn off climate controls before shutting down motor for the night. Since then, I've never gotten the thump when I had a/c off prior to starting in morning.
As an aside, my wife's 2K Honda Odyssey sometime makes similar (but scarier sounding) noise if she starts with rear a/c engaged. Honda gave same explanation.
Ford-Diesel site. ford-diesel.com. It's not only about oil burning, smokey, stinky, diesels. They do have a gasser section.
good luck
jerry
Exhuast rattle...
had it on my 99, it was the shield on the y-pipe. I had to find it for my dealer so they could fix it. They welds are very cheap and were breaking loose, they fixed it with a hose clamp. Not shown up on the new truck, but it only has 4500 miles.
Oh yeah, with the synthetic and Prolong I picked up about 1.75mpg for what its worth....
'00 SD, V10, CC, 4X4 Lariat
I've always used Motorcraft filters which have this feature..
Apparently the old belt had stretched too much to allow me to tighten it properly and the alternator wasn't turning enough to recharge it.
BTW, if you bought a trailer package and haven't yet hooked up a trailer to your truck, and are planning to do so at some time, you might want to check to make sure you have the towing relays installed. I found out mine didn't went I went to have a slide in camper hooked up :-(
I called the dealer about it and he said that sometimes they come with them installed and sometimes they don't, and sometimes folks that don't order the trailer package get em. FORD QUALITY IS JOB ONE...
If you look in your manual it will call them Trailer Tow Backup Lamp Relay, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay and Trialer Tow Electronic Brake Controller. You should also get a Brake Controller Cable. Two of em' (can't remember which ones) will be in a little plastic box right next to your main fuse box, it's kinda hard to determine that from the pictures.
Frank
Yesterday, my wife was going out to get a load of landscape block, and put a bunch of things on passenger side front floor before she left. Evidently she closed the door enough that the door chime didn't go off, but the door obviously wasn't latched. Anyway, my driveway is torn up for curtain drain installation and has a couple 6 inch deep, 3 ft wide cuts through it. As she backed MY TRUCK over the bumps, the front passenger door was jarred open and hooked itself into a dirt pile on side of driveway. She immediately stopped but succeeded in hyperextending door about a foot further out than it normally goes. OOoOops.
Door still closes (sorta), but front fender is bowed, hood is sprung and closes crooked, and it looks like lower right corner of windshield is not fully seated. " Doesn't look that bad" ( to Her!!!), but I'm sure it's $$$$ to fix.
I've had truck for 17 months and it was almost pristine!!! We had just gotten to point where car insurance was going to get cheaper after three years with out any claims....wah ;-(
Just needed some place to vent. So any suggestions on how my wife should repent for the error of her ways? My PSD buddy says I should upgrade to Lariat Diesel.
PS - Anyone know where I can get some info on the next generation F150's?
AKINS FORD,Peter Gloger, 770-867-9136. Tell him I Kevin Owen sent you.
Vicki Hall, Hayes Chryler Oakwood, 770-535-2835.
Jacky Jones Ford, Cleveland, no number.
The first is whom I bought a couple of trucks from, three months ago my new 02 F250 V10 4x4.
The second is my sister-in-law, and if I bought a Dodge I could have gotten her discount. No way I'm going to buy a Dodge though.
The third is just one of the biggest truck dealers in the Southeast U.S.
One of my best friends bought a 1 1/2 year old 1500, 5.9L, 2wd. Four years later....4 tranny's, 2 engines, a lot of brake jobs, and a lot of everything else that is mechanical. He doesn't tow a thing, he doesn't haul a thing! I tried to talk him out of buying the Dodge but he liked the looks. A Ford F250 is now in the plans.
BTW, I live in Flowery Branch.
Some folks had dealers who did the repair at no cost (well over the 36k warranty), some got an 80/20% split, some got nothing.
There is a TSB issued for the door crack..
It sounds like in your case, the dealer offered to fix the crack for free, (under warranty).
As for the 'rust', this doesn't sound like a common problem. If the dealership offered a 50/50 on that, it seems 'reasonable' to me..
But, you could take it to other Ford dealerships, you might be able to get something more..
If the fluid is within the 'do not add' range, then it's just fine..
oil:
If the fluid is within the 'do not add' range,
then it's just fine.. When you change the oil, put 6quarts in.. My 00 SuperDuty with the 5.4L uses about 0.5 quarts every 3k miles.
power steering:
Have your dealer fix it..
This is my 3rd F150 (97, 98 and now 2002) and they have all been trouble free. This one has the 5.4 and I've been getting around 14MPG. That was my first tank full too.
It tows like a dream and is quiet and comfortable. We got the power pedals as my roommate is 5' 2".
I'm really happy so hope you are too!
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#176 of 195 Apparent Valve Train Noise at Startup!! by wnaply Jun 11, 2002 (12:32 pm)
Just curious if anyone else has seen the problem I have. I have noticed after my truck sits overnight that there is a noise that sounds like the valve train tapping at startup. The noise goes away after about 15 seconds and does not re-occur during the day. I have 25k miles on the truck. I recently switched from 5W-30W dino oil to 5W-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic with Prolong additive. I did not hear the problem before the switch. I plan to go back to the dino oil in the next couple of days. Any thoughts?
Oh yeah, with the synthetic and Prolong I picked up about 1.75mpg for what its worth....
'00 SD, V10, CC, 4X4 Lariat
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#177 of 195 wnaply by bess Jun 11, 2002 (05:59 pm)
It's possible that the oil filter you used either didn't have, or had a defective anti-drainback valve. This valve built into the oil filter keeps the oil from draining out of the top end of the engine when the truck is not running.
I've always used Motorcraft filters which have this feature..
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#178 of 195 filter change by wnaply Jun 12, 2002 (10:31 am)
Well, I changed the oil and filter and still have the annoying noise at startup. Like you Bess I always use the Motorcraft filter. I hate to go to the dealer with this one. I can picture them rubbing there chin and saying that's just normal for the V10. At least it is only first thing in the morning. Maybe it's just more noticeable to me because I have an autostart and am able to be around the front of the truck when it starts. I guess I'll start it from the inside a few times to see what it sounds like from there. Don't think it is normal though.....
I am now pulling a little 5th wheel that is around 6,500 loaded up and things seem to do great other than the noise.
I would also be interested in any performance upgrades that work well on this set up other than the K&N and 3" cat-back that I have already installed.
I have a used 95 F150 with the 4.9 300 in line 6 engine. I have been seeing a small oil drip get larger and larger. I crawled underneath finally yesterday. The oil pan is rusting out on the sides and the bottom.
I have never heard of this. I have Model A's that are getting on to 70 + years now with their original oil pans; but here is a truck with only 70,000 miles and 6 years service and the engine oil pan is rusting out. Seems like a factory grey paint was put on really heavy and is now peeling off and taking the metal with it.
Anybody heard of this before? I doubt Ford will do anything about this. Anybody change a pan on one of these recently? Do I have to raise the engine and disconnnect lots of stuff, or does it slip in and out easily?
Thanks for any help......
I have a 1984 ford f-150 with a 4.9l in line 6cyl engin and it won't stay started its not electcal because I replaced the entire electronic starting system timed it tuned it up new carb adjusted the throttle its getting gas, spark, but I have to keep constant pressure on the accelrator just to keep it running E-mail me at vze39csr@verizon.net with answers