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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • 19fordman9319fordman93 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 F-150 P/U 4.9L 2WD Straight 6 - E4OD
    I was wondering what does your truck experience when the Torque Converter needs replacing?

    Can someone tell me the signs and symptoms??
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Anybody have this problem? '01 F350. I'm the only one who has the keys to my truck and I don't lock my tailgate. Yet almost every time in the last couple weeks or so when I go to open it, the \*&$!@# tailgate is LOCKED!!! I practically ripped my finger nails off this morning at the lumber yard. (My wife has been known to play practical jokes on me; she messes with my mind, but she's too smart to mess with my truck!)
    Don't see anything obviously wrong with the latches, etc. But I'm starting to notice a correlation between bad roads/speed bumps and the tailgate. Feel kinda silly going back to dealer with this one ...."yeah sure buddy, your tailgate locks by itself"
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I've also experienced this, and on the Ford-Diesel.com site, several other folks have experienced that as well. One time while opening the tailgate, the latch felt more stiff than normal, I then closed the tailgate, and immediately went to reopen it and it was locked..
    The stiffness I think was the locking mechanism being driven by the handle opening.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    The new Ford Truck Owners club is now available on Edmunds.com Owners Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Pickups.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    KarenS
    Host
    Owners Clubs
  • jps6jps6 Member Posts: 6
    I'm buying an older {1993} F 150 supercab XLT LB 4X4 in 2 weeks. I love this truck, but in checking out several fords of the exact year and model, I've discovered some have a tailgate with the aluminum treatment and the smaller ford logo, while the one I'm buying has the traditional F O R D in big letters across the back of the tailgate.It sure looks like the original tailgate of the same year. Can someone help me out with this non-life threatening yet puzzling dilemma? THANKS!
  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    If you are thinking of buying a 4.2L Ford V6..RUN, Run far and fast...unless of course you enjoy replacing engines every 35K or so! Just my experience anyway...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    XLT's should have the aluminum trim strip. Lesser models have the basic tailgate (at least, in '93).
  • fordtuffordtuf Member Posts: 101
    When I had my old truck in 92, XLT and Lariat had aluminum and XL's had the big letters.
  • jps6jps6 Member Posts: 6
    My '93 has all the goodies like power windows, door locks, cruise, tilt wheel ,am-fm cassette etc. It does not have buckets. The logo on the front fenders says F-150 XLT. Did the XL's come with power windows etc.for '93? Also it's a 5.0 liter 4X4 with two gas tanks,{wow, got those just in time with gas prices going up huh?!!}
    Why don't I have brushed aluminum like normal fords?
  • fordtuffordtuf Member Posts: 101
    As far as I know Xl's did not come with all the stuff you mentioned, XLT's do. On my 92 XLT, just above the glovebox there was a metal looking strip. Embossed in that strip were the letters XLT, they could be easily overlooked if you didn't know they were there.

    What kind of florring do you have? XLT is carpet, XL is rubber/plastic. I don't think you could option carpet in an XL.

    My guess is that someone trashed the tailgate and got the first one they could that matched the truck color.
  • jps6jps6 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info fordtuf..I guess it's possible that it might have a different tailgate, but wow the color is EXACT. I looked at two f-150's, identical year, both 5.0 liter and XLT. The only difference inside were that one had the buckets with lumbar switch and the center console (and it was bright red). The ford I'm buying is the same truck except a bench seat. Both trucks carry the XLT logo outside and on the right side dash as you mentioned.( the one I'm buying is cranberry and silver) I took great pictures of both trucks inside and out. How do I post them so you can see for yourself?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Took F-350 in to dealer for self locking tailgate. They didn't seem very suprised when I told them about it. But, at first they couldn't get it to lock by itself, so they just lubed it and were gonna give it back to me.
    However, Mechanic decided on one last test and drove over to rutted gravel parking lot. It locked on him every time he hit a certain pot hole. They ended up replacing the handle mechanism, both latches, and one of the "rods" in gate. They think possibly I had something get caught in latch when closing gate which may have deformed the rod allowing things to lock up easier.
    Of course they were lazy: called me at noon to say they were done, but I needed to use a different key for the gate. Told them it was Unacceptable! So an hour job took them all day, till they were able to get someone to recore the replacement lock cylinder for my current key. Don't think they'll break even on that warranty repair from Ford.
    Bounced the heck outta the truck on the way home and gate didn't lock by itself.
  • jkiltonjkilton Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 F150 XLT extended cab 4x4 with a 5.4l engine. At about 30K miles I had it in the shop for a burnt oil smell. Now 3 head replacements later and oil leaking on my driveway and 3 weeks in the dealership service bay. I am informed by my dealer they want to replace the engine with a remanufacture engine. This problem is not resolved yet. I do not want a refurbished engine on a new truck.
    I have read other message boards by Ford owners with the same problem. I have not seen any posting yet on this board. Anyothers have similar experiences. I would like to know the outcome and if anyone has covered this under any lemon laws.

    Thank you
  • jonnysignjonnysign Member Posts: 1
    Has Ford figured out what the cause of the thump that occurs sometimes when you start the truck? It happens only occasionally, sometimes it's light, other times you swear you ran into something. Does anyone else have this in their trucks. I've owned a 99 V8 & a 2000 7.4 and have had it in both.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Others have suggested it is the A/C compressor coming to life after the engine cranks, that sudden "jerk" on the belt when the clutch engages. I have it on mine, but only when the compressor is on, just like what others have noticed. If you make sure the controls are in the vent, floor or off position, you should not have the thump.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I agree with Mullins. Mine does it on occaission. Only after sitting overnight, nose down on my sloping driveway - one fairly loud thump and nothing else when a/c is on at startup. Ford tech said the freon in line upstream from the a/c compressor had partially liquified from cooling down overnight, causing thump when it was pumped through next day. Told me it wasn't an issue and "wouldn't hurt the a/c compressor."
    Didn't really buy into the "wouldn't hurt" line, but per his advice I've been making conscious effort for past several months to make sure I turn off climate controls before shutting down motor for the night. Since then, I've never gotten the thump when I had a/c off prior to starting in morning.

    As an aside, my wife's 2K Honda Odyssey sometime makes similar (but scarier sounding) noise if she starts with rear a/c engaged. Honda gave same explanation.
  • tc14374tc14374 Member Posts: 22
    Recently as in about a week ago I noticed that my 99 F-150 4X4 developed what can best be described as a "jerk" when I climb hills or grades. It only does it when I am traveling at highway speeds and when I go up a grade. The tranny doesn't shift out of overdrive and it starts a jerking or skipping action. The best way to describe it is it feels like you are literally throwing an anchor out. The auto transmission was serviced according to reccomendation at 30k miles. The dealer examined it today and said it was the torque converter. Has anyone out there experienced a similar problem and if so was it in fact the torque converter? Any info would be appreciated.
  • mesazonemesazone Member Posts: 51
    I was going to post the same problem, but figured out as long as I left the vent controls on something other then off when I last turned off the pickup, I would get the thump. Sometimes loud, sometimes barely audible. Sometimes within 5 seconds of starting, sometimes it took a good 60 seconds. It didn't matter if the A/C was running or not (didn't run it all winter. It is cold enough without it.) It also didn't matter what slope it was parked at or on level ground. It sounds to me like a vent closing that was left open, but I don't know. Glad to hear I'm not the only one.
  • tc14374tc14374 Member Posts: 22
    I checked out www.F150online.com and discovered that this condition is quite common and is called "torque converter shutter". According to post on the website the problem can probably be corrected by flushing out the transmission fluid and replacing it, specifically with Mercron V. According to the guys there this should take care of the problem.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The service manager at my local Ford garage told me to add one bottle of the friction modifier to the tranny along with the required amount of Mercon V. I don't know why it works, I just know it does. My wife's Cougar has done the same thing through repeated flush and fills. When I put in the modifier the last time I flushed and filled, the shudder went away.
  • gthiltongthilton Member Posts: 30
    My 2000 250 SD CC V-10 has a buzz coming from the manifold or heat shield area at 2400 RPM. The dealer has looked at it and can't get it to go away. They say they haven't seen this problem before. Funny thing is, I drive a 2001 350 V-10 at work, and at about 4000 miles, it started the exact same problem, except at 2200 RPM. Too big a coincidence for me to believe I have an "isolated" problem. Please advise me if you know anything. Thanks
  • jcave1jcave1 Member Posts: 137
    If you don't get what you need here, check the
    Ford-Diesel site. ford-diesel.com. It's not only about oil burning, smokey, stinky, diesels. They do have a gasser section.

    good luck

    jerry
  • deraltederalte Member Posts: 2
    Have an1985 F250, 460 V-8, manual tranny, 89k miles. About 18 months ago replaced battery and rebuilt alternator. Regulator checked out OK. Earlier this week, noticed battery seemed low at start, once started, battery gauge showed slight discharge at any speed. Charged up battery, took vehicle to Auto Zone for test. Battery and Regulator checked out OK, Alternator provided only about 12.6 Volts, 9 Amps, which is well below specs. As in-car unit had a "lifetime" guarantee, got new alternator, installed same this morning. Also put in new Regulator, "just in case". Alas, exactly same result as before: very slow discharge on gauge. Suggestions? Did I put the appropriate Field/Armature wires back right? Is there a Fusable Link that is blown, or not working properly? How to trace this out?
  • fordtuffordtuf Member Posts: 101
    My new 02 V10 has the thump when I start it. I specifically know that the A/C is NEVER on when I shut the truck off. I ALWAYS put it into the vent position and flush the vents for about 15 seconds before I shut off the truck, its keeps air ducts fresher longer and also the new truck smell. Anyway it does not matter the position of the switch. What does seem to matter is if I don't drive it for a day. Driving everyday I can't remember it ever happening, leave it sit for only one day and its almost guaranteed to thump when you start it. BTW it usually thumps a little differently when I actually turn on the A/C compressor. For those of you that don't know, the A/C compressor kicks in every time you turn on anything except the vent and the floor heat only.

    Exhuast rattle...
    had it on my 99, it was the shield on the y-pipe. I had to find it for my dealer so they could fix it. They welds are very cheap and were breaking loose, they fixed it with a hose clamp. Not shown up on the new truck, but it only has 4500 miles.
  • mwautomwauto Member Posts: 4
    I have an 2002 F-150 Suprcrew with 7,300 miles and the transmission slips intermittently between first and second gear approximately 10 times per week. I notice it mainly in stop-n-go traffic when I do not come to a complete stop or leaving a parking lot etc. and go to accelerate. The vehicle jerks when the rear wheels finally catch and I have heard a metal scraping noise from the rear once. It has been in the shop twice so far and they have been unable to find anything. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • wnaplywnaply Member Posts: 3
    Just curious if anyone else has seen the problem I have. I have noticed after my truck sits overnight that there is a noise that sounds like the valve train tapping at startup. The noise goes away after about 15 seconds and does not re-occur during the day. I have 25k miles on the truck. I recently switched from 5W-30W dino oil to 5W-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic with Prolong additive. I did not hear the problem before the switch. I plan to go back to the dino oil in the next couple of days. Any thoughts? :)

    Oh yeah, with the synthetic and Prolong I picked up about 1.75mpg for what its worth....

    '00 SD, V10, CC, 4X4 Lariat
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    It's possible that the oil filter you used either didn't have, or had a defective anti-drainback valve. This valve built into the oil filter keeps the oil from draining out of the top end of the engine when the truck is not running.

    I've always used Motorcraft filters which have this feature..
  • wnaplywnaply Member Posts: 3
    Well, I changed the oil and filter and still have the annoying noise at startup. Like you Bess I always use the Motorcraft filter. I hate to go to the dealer with this one. I can picture them rubbing there chin and saying that's just normal for the V10. At least it is only first thing in the morning. Maybe it's just more noticeable to me because I have an autostart and am able to be around the front of the truck when it starts. I guess I'll start it from the inside a few times to see what it sounds like from there. Don't think it is normal though.....
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    Check the belt tension on your alternator. I had a '71 F-250 with gauges. It would start fine when the battery was charged, but after driving a while and turning the engine off the battery would be down enough it wouldn't start it. After scratching my head over the problem a while I noticed the needle on the ammeter was running just a little toward the discharge side, and I do mean just a little. Not enough to be really noticeable until I started looking for problems. I tightened the belt, charged the battery, the ammeter ran centered, and the problem went away.
    Apparently the old belt had stretched too much to allow me to tighten it properly and the alternator wasn't turning enough to recharge it.
  • berry113berry113 Member Posts: 13
    We posted back in November regarding the rust on our 1997 F-150. Latest update is the Ford Helpless line will not fix the corrosion on the doors until the rust has eaten a whole through the door. Cannot believe Ford will not cover the bodywork on this. Anyone have any similar problems?
  • frobeyfrobey Member Posts: 17
    My 2001 V10 definately does it when I start it after letting it sit for a couple days. I took it in to the dealer and of course they said that they didn't experience it and didn't have any kind of TSBs on it. I think I'm going to record it on my video camera and play it for them the next time I heard over towards the dealer to pick up my towing relays (see below). Will let ya know the outcome.

    BTW, if you bought a trailer package and haven't yet hooked up a trailer to your truck, and are planning to do so at some time, you might want to check to make sure you have the towing relays installed. I found out mine didn't went I went to have a slide in camper hooked up :-(

    I called the dealer about it and he said that sometimes they come with them installed and sometimes they don't, and sometimes folks that don't order the trailer package get em. FORD QUALITY IS JOB ONE...

    If you look in your manual it will call them Trailer Tow Backup Lamp Relay, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay and Trialer Tow Electronic Brake Controller. You should also get a Brake Controller Cable. Two of em' (can't remember which ones) will be in a little plastic box right next to your main fuse box, it's kinda hard to determine that from the pictures.

    Frank
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Argghh!! My wife had teasingly accused me that I loved my '01 F350 CC more than her, but I didn't think she was gonna take action over it! I'm mean I love my truck; it helped me avoid a mid life crisis, and I've been getting a few truck toys for it - but I wasn't that bad....

    Yesterday, my wife was going out to get a load of landscape block, and put a bunch of things on passenger side front floor before she left. Evidently she closed the door enough that the door chime didn't go off, but the door obviously wasn't latched. Anyway, my driveway is torn up for curtain drain installation and has a couple 6 inch deep, 3 ft wide cuts through it. As she backed MY TRUCK over the bumps, the front passenger door was jarred open and hooked itself into a dirt pile on side of driveway. She immediately stopped but succeeded in hyperextending door about a foot further out than it normally goes. OOoOops.

    Door still closes (sorta), but front fender is bowed, hood is sprung and closes crooked, and it looks like lower right corner of windshield is not fully seated. " Doesn't look that bad" ( to Her!!!), but I'm sure it's $$$$ to fix.
    I've had truck for 17 months and it was almost pristine!!! We had just gotten to point where car insurance was going to get cheaper after three years with out any claims....wah ;-(
    Just needed some place to vent. So any suggestions on how my wife should repent for the error of her ways? My PSD buddy says I should upgrade to Lariat Diesel.
  • fordbluefordblue Member Posts: 13
    My sympathy on your wounded SD. I too had my pristine 01 F250 CC 4x4 wounded recently. My 13 year old was "helping" me unload a ton of decorative rock. I let him take over as I went inside to get a phone call. When we were all done and I lifted up the tailgate and then I thought the heat was making me hallucinate. My tailgate (the outside) was all scratched and gouged. Apparently each time he'd move the wheelbarrow he'd "somehow" managed to scratch the #*%$ out of the tailgate. When I asked him about it he said it must have already been like that. Wifey said, "relax, it's only a truck"!!!! The second battle wound was at the hands of wifey. She somehow managed to let the wind catch our Nissan's door (which has a broken hinge stop) and slam the side of the SD passanger door. A nice, deep, hightly visible, dent. She said, "Ooppps, sorry", and that was it. She appeared to enjoy the moment. OH well, wpalkowski I guess our trucks have more character now. LOL. As far as punishment, they should be temporarily barred from the SDs.
  • eleets00eleets00 Member Posts: 27
    Hello all. I know this message isn't pertaining to the subject at hand, but no has responed when I put them in the correct topic. I would like to if anyone here owns the 2000 F150 Harley Davidson SuperCab &/or the 2001 F150 HD CrewCab. How do they drive? How is the reliability? What is the gas mileage like? I'm looking at the 2002 Ram Quad Cab, but like the Harley Davidson F150's better. But.. after my 96 Contour fiasco, I'm skeptical of buying another Ford product (I've heard the horror stories on the pre-2K2 Ram's). I live in Stn Mtn/Lithonia, GA & have to drive 48 miles round trip to work every day. Plus I plan on getting sport bike & would like to know which one is better equipped to handle the bike. How much should I expect to pay for either? Any info/advice anyone can provide will greatly appreciated.

    PS - Anyone know where I can get some info on the next generation F150's?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    try asking over on http://www.f150online.com
  • fordtuffordtuf Member Posts: 101
    I have a couple of sources.
    AKINS FORD,Peter Gloger, 770-867-9136. Tell him I Kevin Owen sent you.
    Vicki Hall, Hayes Chryler Oakwood, 770-535-2835.
    Jacky Jones Ford, Cleveland, no number.

    The first is whom I bought a couple of trucks from, three months ago my new 02 F250 V10 4x4.

    The second is my sister-in-law, and if I bought a Dodge I could have gotten her discount. No way I'm going to buy a Dodge though.

    The third is just one of the biggest truck dealers in the Southeast U.S.

    One of my best friends bought a 1 1/2 year old 1500, 5.9L, 2wd. Four years later....4 tranny's, 2 engines, a lot of brake jobs, and a lot of everything else that is mechanical. He doesn't tow a thing, he doesn't haul a thing! I tried to talk him out of buying the Dodge but he liked the looks. A Ford F250 is now in the plans.

    BTW, I live in Flowery Branch.
  • wings1wings1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 F-150 with 54000 miles. When I had 26000 miles, Ford fixed both doors that were rusty. At 50000 miles, the problem re-appeared. Ford said they will go 50-50 to replace them ($1000 each). I can't reason with them. They seem to think this is normal. Also, I noticed that the drivers door is starting to crack and rust just behind the window. They also said they would repair it under the 3 year/36000 mile warranty. This doesn't seem right. Has anyone else had similar problems.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I've heard of several others that have had a door crack problem. (1/4 inch crack or shorter near lower part of window).
    Some folks had dealers who did the repair at no cost (well over the 36k warranty), some got an 80/20% split, some got nothing.
    There is a TSB issued for the door crack..

    It sounds like in your case, the dealer offered to fix the crack for free, (under warranty).

    As for the 'rust', this doesn't sound like a common problem. If the dealership offered a 50/50 on that, it seems 'reasonable' to me..
    But, you could take it to other Ford dealerships, you might be able to get something more..
  • berry113berry113 Member Posts: 13
    Wings and Bess thanks for responding - we have hit a brick wall with Ford. Dealer says we need new doors, there's no way to "repair" the rust that is eating away at all 3 doors. They will not pitch in a dime. We have been very happy with our truck until this and the lack of response from Ford to stand behind their product is truly disappointing. I can honestly say we will not purchase another vehicle from Ford.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Doesn't your truck have something like a 10 yr/100k mile corrosion warranty? Mine does and the manual states they will not fix it until the rust perforates the sheet metal. It may be a little dishonest, but none more than what Ford is doing to you, but pack a little calcium chloride into the rusty spots. Your doors will be perforated in no time. Then give it a good wash out before taking it in.
  • dannyboy49dannyboy49 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all, I purchased a new 02 f150 back in april and I just discovered that the transmission fluid level is only just a bit into the fully warmed area when fully warm. The book says it is acceptable but I dont like it on the low side. Also the engine 5.4 is suppose to take 6 qts of oil but it shows about a half qt down since new. I also just discovered power steering fluid leaking under steering shaft any suggestions on these and just wondering if anyone else had same problem.the truck has less than 1000mi. thanks
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    tranny:
    If the fluid is within the 'do not add' range, then it's just fine..

    oil:
    If the fluid is within the 'do not add' range,
    then it's just fine.. When you change the oil, put 6quarts in.. My 00 SuperDuty with the 5.4L uses about 0.5 quarts every 3k miles.

    power steering:
    Have your dealer fix it..
  • dannyboy49dannyboy49 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Bess for the info.Would like to know If anybody out there has recently purchased an 02 F150 xlt super cab and how do they like it and if they have run into any problems. And what gas milege they are getting.appreciate any info.
  • jparentejparente Member Posts: 9
    Hi, I bought a 2002 about 3 weeks ago. So far so good. I have a bit of a rough idle which I visited the dealer for and they told me to wait a bit longer for the computer to "tune" itself. Other than that is is just great.

    This is my 3rd F150 (97, 98 and now 2002) and they have all been trouble free. This one has the 5.4 and I've been getting around 14MPG. That was my first tank full too.

    It tows like a dream and is quiet and comfortable. We got the power pedals as my roommate is 5' 2".

    I'm really happy so hope you are too!
  • gmengineman1gmengineman1 Member Posts: 32
    Ford has been eveluating a prototype 5 speed automatic transmission at the Kingman, AZ facility. A close friend of mine is assigned to the project and informs that "all is not going well." The new 6.0 Powerstroke diesel is so strong (torque) and generates so much heat that design team is rethinking their approach to this new transmission. My concern for consumers is what will Ford do come the "due date" of this transmission? Will they take the GM approach and produce it any way then let the consumer be the evaluator. I hope not. Dodge too, is working on a new auto tranny and I hope their attempts will result in better success than Ford is having. The problems I see described with the 6 speed manual transmission are not new. All manufacturers using that gearbox have experienced problems. The current design and materials used suggest that a periodic fluid change at about 20,000 iles is advisable. Those who are doing this are experiencing fewer problems.
  • wnaplywnaply Member Posts: 3
    I brought the truck to the dealer. The dealer said they had not heard of this before. They told me they called Ford about the knocking sound at startup. Ford told them that this is normal for the V10 and not to do anything. It's ashame that Ford puts an engine in a $30K plus vehicle and say that it is normal to knock at startup. Any thoughts?????????

    ____________________________________________________________________________________________________
    #176 of 195 Apparent Valve Train Noise at Startup!! by wnaply Jun 11, 2002 (12:32 pm)
    Just curious if anyone else has seen the problem I have. I have noticed after my truck sits overnight that there is a noise that sounds like the valve train tapping at startup. The noise goes away after about 15 seconds and does not re-occur during the day. I have 25k miles on the truck. I recently switched from 5W-30W dino oil to 5W-30W Mobil 1 Synthetic with Prolong additive. I did not hear the problem before the switch. I plan to go back to the dino oil in the next couple of days. Any thoughts? :)

    Oh yeah, with the synthetic and Prolong I picked up about 1.75mpg for what its worth....

    '00 SD, V10, CC, 4X4 Lariat

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    #177 of 195 wnaply by bess Jun 11, 2002 (05:59 pm)
    It's possible that the oil filter you used either didn't have, or had a defective anti-drainback valve. This valve built into the oil filter keeps the oil from draining out of the top end of the engine when the truck is not running.

    I've always used Motorcraft filters which have this feature..

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    #178 of 195 filter change by wnaply Jun 12, 2002 (10:31 am)
    Well, I changed the oil and filter and still have the annoying noise at startup. Like you Bess I always use the Motorcraft filter. I hate to go to the dealer with this one. I can picture them rubbing there chin and saying that's just normal for the V10. At least it is only first thing in the morning. Maybe it's just more noticeable to me because I have an autostart and am able to be around the front of the truck when it starts. I guess I'll start it from the inside a few times to see what it sounds like from there. Don't think it is normal though.....
  • larsen2larsen2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 F-150 Lariat 5.4 4x4 that has made a slight "whine" when it shifts under heavy acceleration since it was new. Everything works fine and it hasn't gotten any worse now at 15k miles and 18 months. The dealer's wizz kid couldn't hear it although my wife can so I know I aint crazy.
    I am now pulling a little 5th wheel that is around 6,500 loaded up and things seem to do great other than the noise.
    I would also be interested in any performance upgrades that work well on this set up other than the K&N and 3" cat-back that I have already installed.
  • obus100obus100 Member Posts: 7
    Hi

    I have a used 95 F150 with the 4.9 300 in line 6 engine. I have been seeing a small oil drip get larger and larger. I crawled underneath finally yesterday. The oil pan is rusting out on the sides and the bottom.

    I have never heard of this. I have Model A's that are getting on to 70 + years now with their original oil pans; but here is a truck with only 70,000 miles and 6 years service and the engine oil pan is rusting out. Seems like a factory grey paint was put on really heavy and is now peeling off and taking the metal with it.

    Anybody heard of this before? I doubt Ford will do anything about this. Anybody change a pan on one of these recently? Do I have to raise the engine and disconnnect lots of stuff, or does it slip in and out easily?

    Thanks for any help......
  • vze39csrvze39csr Member Posts: 1
    hi
    I have a 1984 ford f-150 with a 4.9l in line 6cyl engin and it won't stay started its not electcal because I replaced the entire electronic starting system timed it tuned it up new carb adjusted the throttle its getting gas, spark, but I have to keep constant pressure on the accelrator just to keep it running E-mail me at vze39csr@verizon.net with answers
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    Hello to all! I'm usually over at the Dodge Dakota site but I needed to pick your brains about something. A buddy of mine has a 1987 F-150 in pretty good condition. It has that crazy looking dual hose intake setup for the fuel injection on the 302 cu. in. engine. Does anyone know if there is an intake setup similar to a K&N or Airaid for this truck?? Thanks and enjoy your F-150's! They are great trucks.
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