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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If it's anything like a brake master cylinder, the fluid just bypasses the seals on the shaft causing a loss of pressure, but nothing leaks externally.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well his original post was that the resevoir continually gets low, and he has to refill it. It's leaking out somewhere!!
  • Where is the TCU located on a 91 Honda Accord LX?
  • It's parked on stained asphalt so it'll ba heard to tell. I guess I'll put a rag or something directly below the cylinder and let ya know.
  • The problem started with both front brakes sticking, (bring you to a stop with no brakes applied @ 35 mph). I have replaced front calipers, master cylinder, front rubber brake lines & proportioning valve. All new except, proportioning valve (salvage yard). I have bleed the brakes all 4 wheels. The problem now is one of the front brakes is still sticking. If I bleed the one that is sticking, then the one that was turning is sticking.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well IMO your symptoms point to the master cylinder, lines, or proportioning valve not releasing the fluid back into the master cylinder when you release the brake. But you've swapped out everything but the lines.

    Is the brake pedal itself working freely, with spring return?

    Are there some other clues here that you haven't given? Like dirt/rust got into the mastercylinder (and may be lodged in the line), or the car was in an accident (and may have a pinched brake line), or ???
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Something I just thought of :surprise: . Did you make sure the rod on the new master cylinder was the same length as the one you removed? If the rod is too long, it will not fully release the brake pressure. Hope you find the problem,,, good luck.
  • ok if you have a intake on your car thi is the problem when you have and intake the car will run more faster reason why is because is sucking more air the reason why your rpm goes up and down even if you dont have an intake on it ok adjusted by disconnecting the electrical connector from the air control (iac) valve ,and pry out the concealment plug from the throttle body then close to that vacuum theres a screw like inside a hold turn that screw to optain the specific idle the original should be 75000rpm but depending on the condition of the car i normally recomend to 10000rpm if need more help write back good luck
  • you either have air in the lines or you need to check the back brake the bushings make sure their not leaking on that your calipers are good usually if you put one caliper the other goes bad normally i recomend to put both new caliper good luck
  • check the clutch release cilinder and meake sure is not leaking or corrude of dirt or anithing also check your lines and make sure their not broken or anithing
  • Hi All,

    This is my first ever post. I have an automatic 1991 Accord EX w/ 200K miles on it. The car no longer starts and it is stuck in park. I can shift into neutral using the key unlock mechanism on the shift console, but the car won't start in neutral either. All relevant fuses are OK. The engine cranks great but when you let go of the key at the last On position it completely dies. Also of relevance is the fact that my brake lights work and the volt meter shows the battery is plenty good when you're cranking it.

    The engine light is not on but jumping the service port reveals the S light blinking codes 1, 2 7 and 8. These have to do with the lock-up control solenoid valves and the shift control solenoid valves. Following the trouble shooting guide in my Honda manual indicates all four wires going to the respective solenoids have a short in them between the TCU and the first connector in the engine compartment.

    Has anyone had a similar problem? I am partly wondering if the TCU is just plain shot. I'm also wondering if I'm missing something. Even if these two solenoids are not working shouldn't the car at least start in neutral?

    Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
  • I have a 1990 accord and my shifter won't shift out of park. It only shifts when I put my key in the shift lock release. Can someone please help me!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I am partly wondering if the TCU is just plain shot.

    You could open the TCU up and check it out. Usually the capacitors leak and there are easy to see black spots on the circuit boards.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have a 1990 accord and my shifter won't shift out of park.

    Do you hear a click when the brake pedal is pushed (you should hear the solenoid in the console release when you push the brake pedal)? Do the brake lights work right? If not, the brake pedal position switch may be out of position or inoperative.
  • No, I don't hear a click and my brake lights aren't working. I just replaced the bulb and they're still not working.
  • I have the same problem with my '96 Accord. I was told that my brake light switch has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The part costs about 30 bucks. I'm going to try to replace it myself.
    If anyone has experience replacing brake light switch on Accords please post instructions.
  • I have the same problem with my '96 Accord. I was told that my brake light switch has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The part costs about 30 bucks. I'm going to try to replace it myself.
    If anyone has experience replacing brake light switch on Accords please post instructions.

    Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't you just blow the $7 and buy the Haynes or Chiltons repair manual that will give you a step by step instruction and some pictures to boot?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The brake position switch is located either above or below the brake pedal arm. You may have to remove the small panel at the bottom of the steering column to see it. Good luck
  • The cheapest price I have seen for getting a check engine light diagnostic is $50. For that price I can pick up a diagnostic tool at Advance or wherever. Is there any advantage to going to a mechanic for this? Do they have fancier diagnostics? Are the ones at auto parts stores not good? My light is on!
  • You can have the diagnostic read for FREE at AutoZone.
  • You don't need anything to read the codes for that car, IIRC. You just need to put it in display mode and it blinks the light. The code readers typically only work with OBDII.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Your car is OBD I, so it has no port to plug the diagnostic tool in. You have to short the "service check connector", and count the blinks (from either the check engine light, or the D4 light) for engine and transmission codes. What you need is a shop manual for your car, that has the codes and diagnostic flowcharts to find the specific problem. Some of the testing also requires special tools, so even if you do have the know-how, you still need tools for testing (multi-meters, and vacume pumps are commonly used in testing). It costs a few bucks to get started, but if it saves you one trip to the dealership, it can pay for itself over and over. Good luck

    I start out with a factory shop manual for each car or truck I own, and buy tools for testing as I need them. I haven't used a professional Mechanic in a long time.
  • this is a wierd one i have a 1993 honda accord that runs great in cool weather but wont start if the outside temp is75 degrees or so. engine turns over just fine it just wont start. what is wierd is that if it starts it will restart even though the engine is warm. has anybody ran in to this problem and if so what was the fix.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Click on this link. It may be your problem. Good luck
  • 2nd vote for main relay
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    3rd vote for same.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    what is wierd is that if it starts it will restart even though the engine is warm.

    The main relay is inside the car, so the engine being warm has no effect on it. When the inside of the car is hot, that's when the main relay will fail. After the inside of the car has cooled, the car will usually start. Did you click on the link, and read about the main relay?
  • i fixed my was the damn fuse...the previous owner used the wrong damn fuse...well thankz for all your guyz help...
  • I already have the manual for my car. I've done numerous repairs on it myself but haven't had to do the check engine light check until recently. I did t according to the manual and it read off a code 43, which isn't in the manual (it only has the more common ones). I looked it up online and found that it has something to do with the fuel delivery and usually indicates an oxygen sensor replacement, which I got done (couldn't get the darn thing off!). The check engine light still comes on even after a reset. I'm about at the point where I just take it in. Any other ideas on a code 43?
  • Code 43 is fuel delivery, right? It could also have something to do the fuel lines, the fuel pump, a vacuum leak, or a couple of other things. I never had to debug that, but on another vehicle, the old vacuum lines were an issue.
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