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The reason this happens first in high gear, is that in low gear (first)...the gearing gives the engine power over the wheels. In high gear, the gearing gives the wheels power over the engine.
Drive down the interstate in high gear. Floor the accelerator. If the car begins to pick up speed and the rpm's gradually build you are okay.
If on the other hand if you floor the accelerator, and the engine revs but the car doesn't go faster.....head directly to the shop.
Your clutch pedal moves the throwout bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate. The pressure plate and engine flywheel form the bread of a sandwich, with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle. When the fingers of the pressure plate are pushed in, the pressure plate (one piece of bread) moves away from the flywheel slightly (the other piece of bread), which allows the bologne to slip.
So if the clutch doesn't depress the fingers enough, the pressure plate still grabs the bologne and spins the transmission shaft, thereby grinding the gears a little.
Your original problem of a worn clutch, says that the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
which allows the bologne to slip.
the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
Wouldn't ham have been easier to type?
Guess I could have said a DVD.
Just shows you I don't do the shopping, well actually I don't do any shopping :P
Regarding the price for clutch job.....you already got one estimate (1K) for the job, call around to other shops in the area to get competitive quotes. Would vary a little by region. You can also call some parts places to find out what parts would run. Price out a clutch plate, throwout bearing, and pressure plate....that will get you in the ballpark.
How many miles on this engine?
I wonder how many miles on this engine. If it's a very high miles then it could just be worn bearings.
All this does not mean 100% that the screen is the problem, but it does have all the symptoms.
But as you say, simplest things first. Don't you think screwing in an oil gauge is a good idea? If the pressure is good, then the sensor is bad. If the pressure is bad, then either the oil screen is clogged, oil pickup tube dislodged, or bearings are shot.
PS: I just hope he comes back with some answers, after all this.
Dropping a pan sounds like a messy hassle kind of thing.
Buy new oil.
Buy a filter
Buy a new pan gasket
Jack up the car
Remove the pan
clean the screen
scrape off the old gasket
install the new gasket
install the pan
install the oil
install the filter
let the car down
pour old oil into containers
take container to recyclers.
Phew! (I'm making too big a deal out of this, aren't I? )
The brake lights and all other lights work ok. Problem is that when the park or headlights are turned on , the brake lights come on as well. When you hit the brake pedal the lights just dim a little but stay on. When the park or headlights are off , the brake lights work fine.
After deciding it was an electrical problem, we removed the plastic cover for the gear shift lever and used contact cleaner on several wires and contacts there. That made all the difference and now starts and shifts out of gear correctly. A very easy and quick repair. I wish someone had told us how to do this trick, we figured it out on our own. So hopefully this will someone out there.
What does that mean?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
Are you just looking at the gauge or is it blowing steam from under the hood?
Is the water low after getting hot?
Rapid overheating from a cold start is not a good sign. Could be the exhaust gases boiling water. But a bad thermostat could give this symptom. I don't think a bad water pump (broken impeller?) would allow the temp gauge to recover at all.
92 Accord LX that runs very rough after sitting for 10 to 12 hrs. Sometime its so bad I cannot keep the car running, running on one maybe two cylinders. If I floor it it will run rough for a bit and then kick in and runs great. Can feel cylinders kicking in one at time. Has new plugs, rotor,cap, and valves just adjusted.
Could this be fule injectors? Or????
Thank you
The car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear when I start off from a standstill. I can manually select all forward gears, however it appears that I only have two forward gears working (2nd and 3rd). Neutral, Reverse and Park all work fine.
At first the D4 light started blinking. Now it stays on regardless of which gear I select. Jumping the blue (2-wire) connector does not result in the D4 light blinking (indicating any codes).
I have read where these models have a history of burned resistors and leaking capacitors in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). I haven’t pulled the TCM to see yet.
Does the symptoms I describe indicate a bad TCM?
I'm not a mechanic, but this was my thought as well.