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Check the prices for doing both verse each one separately...
Cars are complicated.
The manufactors give us 300 page manuals. There is a lot of nonsense in there, but there is a lot of needed information also.
On some questions, even if I have the exact car, I feel as some people don't seem to have the time to walk out to their garage, get the manual out of the glove box, look in the front contents or rear index sections - but I might have the time to do this for them.
If so, no idea how to reset it.
Did you put the key into the ignition and turn it to 'On'? I think this resets the factory alarm if it is triggered. Or, unlocking the door with the key. Or unlocking with the remote. One or the other of these resets the factory alarm I think.
My solution: I had the fuel pump relay switch replaced and since have had no problems with high speed stalls or random "no-starts."
You can go without a cat converter and o2 sensor. Your mileage may suffer slightly. However, the difference will be so small it may go unnoticed by you.
My car has 182K miles. I have driven the last 40K without an o2 sensor or cat. If you can suffer the always on maintenance light, then I say save your money for gas--you're going to need it.
However yesterday it i just stoppet at a barnes and nobles for about 10mins and then the car again failed to start. I'm concerned, what could the problem be?
How do you plan on passing the state emissions test with the maintenance light on, and non-working O2 sensor and cat?
Easy. It's not required in the state I live. Also, a picture of my fiancee covers the maintenance light, so it goes unnoticed.
Modern cars have very little paint on them. And a clear coat on top (on most colors). A buffer can easily cut the clear coat off, and/or most of the thin paint job. More sun will burn the paint off, down into the primer.
This is a lesson learned when I had my brother-in-law (at the request of my wife, his sister) buff my 1991 black SHO. He is a good painter, but didn't really understand how little paint is on a car from the factory. He had dealt with buffing after repainting. Within a year you could see the white primer all over the car - trunk, top, etc.
I'm now considering just replacing all 4 tires, even though the Toyos on the rear only have about 35k on them and look to be in decent shape tread-wise (although I noticed a cut in the sidewall of one the other day). I'm currently looking at the Falken Ziex or possibly the Dunlop SP Sport A2, particularly from a price/performance standpoint (Falken is about $70 at the local Sears, Dunlop is about $70 at TireRack.com).
The spec is 205/60/16 91V. It's a tough size to find, but available. The Falken is rated as a 92H. The Dunlop is rated as a 91H. Is this a significant difference? I'm more concerned about the speed rating differential on both than the load rating of the Falken, considering that the spec for the Accord is a V rating.
A couple things to note...1) I only have 50k miles on the car since my commute varies between 15 and 35 miles r/t per day and we usually use our suv on the weekends...2) I'm starting to get bored with this car and may replace it in the next year or two, so high treadlife is not especially important...3) I do push the car and tend to drive it hard (don't we all?!?), but I also maintain it pretty well...4) I'm was not a big fan of the Michelin MXV4 series, at least not the OEM equipment, which I found very sloppy esp. in rainy conditions, compared to the Toyos I'd replaced them with, but I'm not prepared to drop $130+ per tire, given 1) and 2) above...5) I live in central NJ, so although snow/ice is an occasional consideration, so I do not expect to purchase dedicated snow tires.
What are you riding on?
Any specific experience with either of the above tires is appreciated. Thanks for your help,
Rich
Let me guess you took the car had the CEL come on. then they told you it was the catalytic convertor....did it stall both while driving and immediately after restarting, and did the stalling begin happening after the CEL light and dealer advice to replace the cat?
Did the stalling problem start when the weather got hot? Fuel relay switch problems in older Hondas only happened in the hot weather....and on the older ones you could not start the engine until the inside of the car cooled off.
sorry. couldn't resist.
you have to localize the problem or have someone else do it (perhaps a detailer or a body shop).
question, is the leak due to rain or just possibly, using the AC when it's raining to defog the windshield?
it is a common occurance that an AC evaporator pan behind the glove box has it's drain line clogged due to debris entering the outside cabin air intake at the bottom of the windshield (visible with the hood up) (leaves, pine needles, twigs, nut shell casings from hungry squirrels, tree seeds (helicopters)), etc.
when that happens evaporator run-off collects in teh pan and typically overflows when you make turns (typically left-hand turns).
with the A/C on, if you have the problem, you'll see water running into the passenger footwell when turning, and you can sometimes hear what sounds like water bubbling when hitting a hot frying pan.
you will also notice with the air on, the car on and in [P] park, the hand brake firmly applied, water will not be trickling to the dry pavement below (look in the area just back of the front passenger wheel). No drip? No drain.
ok, assuming that isn't your issue, what i've heard other people do is line their door with paper toweling and hitting the car with a garden hose. where the paper toweling gets wet (on the interior side of the seal) is perhaps where you might have a door seal issue.
i guess another thing to check is that water running down the window freely exits the bottom of the door and runs off the door sill (the horizonal which you step over when getting into and outof the car) and down to the ground.
did you look under the vehicle and see to it that the underside of the body hasn't been compromised by a hole or an underbody plug that may be missing (compare left and right underside visually)?
other thoughts are a windshield weather-stripping problem.
time to get careful and patiently selective with a garden hose to hit parts of the car, performing some experiments until you localize the problem.
Since the car had high miles, I got all my belt and tensioner, water pump and all the seals in the front replaced about 3 days ago.
Now when I am driving my car, when I get at 3000 rpm the car lunges, shakes and vibrates. also while the ac is on I noticed that the motor will go out at a red light.
Thanks for your help.
thx.
I had my 99 Accord EX V6 Sedan serviced at the dealer last week, including a trans. flush. When I got the car home, I noticed that the trans. fluid was overfilled by about a quarter of an inch. I didn't think much of it at the time; after all, I just got it back from its 75,000 mile service.
Since then, I have read that an overfull trans. is a very bad thing because the fluid can foam. But my question is, How much is overfull? A quarter of an inch isn't much on a ruler, of course, but on the dipstick, it's about 100% of the distance between add and full.
I have owned this car for a week, and I'm still working through the new-owner anxiety thing, but then again, you all know about V6 automatics. . . .
BTW, I should mention that I read the manual about how to check the trans. fluid. Warm engine. Park level. Engine off. Pull out and clean dipstick. Repeat, but read before you clean. Put dipstick back where you found it.
Is this worth worrying about or taking back to the dealer?
Thanks,
EZ
Most of the transmission issues have been with V6s. At the very least, perform the maintenance on an automatic transmission to the absolute letter of the Owner's Manual.
This is an excerpt of a letter that Honda American sent to some Honda owners about what to look and listen for with Honda transmissions.
Quote:
These characteristics are normal; they should not require you to call your Honda dealer.
Quick downshifts. The transmission has a computerized control system called grade logic. When going down a hill, even a light touch of the brake pedal can cause grade logic to downshift to the next lower gear. Downshifting helps to slow the vehicle through engine braking.
Does not always shift through the full range of gears. This can also be caused by the grade logic system keeping the transmission in the optimum gear for different driving conditions.
Mechanical noise when selecting a forward or reverse gear. It's normal to hear a slight mechanical noise when moving the shift lever from one gear to another. This noise can sound abnormally loud if any of the windows are down and you are parked next to a wall or another vehicle.
Vehicle may not hold its position when stopped on an incline in gear (may roll backward when the brake pedal is released). This can occur on most Honda-made vehicles. It is one of the measures used to improve fuel economy.
Hard shifts before the engine warms up. By design, the transmission shifts a little harder when the engine is cold. It returns to smoother shifting when the engine warms up.
These characteristics are not normal; if you experience any of them, call your Honda dealer.
While driving, the D4 indicator on the instrument panel flashes.
An abnormally loud noise from the transmission.
Extremely slow or delayed gear engagement, upshifts, or downshifts.
Abnormal gear slippage during upshifts or downshifts.
Erratic or excessively harsh shifting.
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) leaks.
End quote.
I just bought an 99 ex v6 and am trying not to worry too much about the transmission. What can you do except perform the maintenance and service as stated in the manual? If you poke around on the web too much, you might get the impression that every Honda V6 has a bad transmission. This is just not the case. When people have a problem, a lot of them go to the internet and complain. Happy Honda drivers often can't stop grinning long enough to post on the internet.
HTH,
EZ
If it does have an extended 100,000 warranty, you have one of the 'potentially' troublesome transmissions. If not, stop worrying about your V6 transmission.
The only time you would need to recharge the system would be if a leak developes, and/or a component fails and the system needs to be repaired.
If the A/C seems to be cooling as well as it always has, then it should be OK. If it doesn't seem to be working well, then maybe it's low on refrigerant.
I'm guessing the shaking you feel is the compressor kicking on/off. Low refrigerant should not shake the system anymore then a full system. There is always the possibility of something else has worn (motor mount) that's allowing the engine to shake more then before.
Mrbill
We've already established that Exxon makes their 5w20 motor oil.
In my case, it was the battery. I purchased the car used almost two years ago and the battery was an Exide brand that was half way though it's warranty. I took it to a nearby NTB, that sells Exide batteries and would honor the warranty.
Before you start getting dizzy from the $$ signs involved with replacing the starter or alternator, check and see if your battery is still under warranty. Before I realized my battery was under warranty, I priced some that would fit my car (1998 Honda Accord EX V-6), and found they started around $49.95 and went up from there.
Good luck! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, though after going through it myself less than 24 hours ago, I'd bet my last dime it's your battery.