I just got an 07 Accord LX (4-cyl). I noticed that whenever I start the car, put it in reverse to back out, and put it in drive, there is a groaning noise. Sometimes it happens after I put in reverse and sometimes it happens after I put in drive. But I don't ever hear that noise again while driving, only hear it after starting the car. Does anyone know what's making that noise and is it normal? Thanks.
If the noise your hearing happens within the first 10 (approx) seconds, and lasts less then a second, then your probably hearing the ABS doing it's self check.
)) "In the early 90's Honda started inserting an Electrical Load Detector (ELD) into some of their cars whose function is to sense electrical load and "disconnect" (electrically that is) the alternator in times of low electrical load." ((
Thanks for the explanation. My last (and one and only) Accord, a '96, exhibited the periodic headlight dimming at night, but I'd had a '73 Ford Galaxie 500 that did the same thing. The Ford shop manual said it was normal, so I never followed up on it with the Honda. The factory Delco battery from Honda only lasted six years. Curiously, my '03 Sonata started life under my tutelage with headlight dimming, but eventually stopped after several months. That battery (a Korean made Delco variant branded, "DelKor") is over four years old. Now I wonder whether the Sonata's ELD pooped quietly on its own. If so, Korean cars are wonderful - they fix themselves.
I have an 04 Accord EX with 29k miles. My radio light just went dim today. I don't know what to do. The radio still works but I can't see the time or display. Please help me out. I know its not covered under warranty but I know I am still under warranty.
Maybe the original purchase date was September 2003 for the 2004 Acord. It would then be more than 3 years and would be out of warranty. Otherwise, it should be covered.
If your dealer gives you static about the radio no longer being under warranty provisions, call Honda's toll-free consumer affairs number in your owner's manual. There've been numerous instances in which Honda will comp a replacement radio well beyond warranty. The background lighting failure on these head units is a known issue.
oh - wonderful. thanks for the description. very helpful. it would seem challenging to disconnect the remaining small load in a linear (non-step) manner such that you didn't notice it.
i personally don't see how it could improve FE much unless it causes some disconnect of the drive to the alternator which i assume is always engaged and consuming energy from the motor / reducing FE.
then again, if you unload the alternator electrically, i suppose their could be an unloading of the mechanical torque / energy caused by the field magnet arrangement and getting those electrons to their load...
It has to be an "electrical unloading" as the pulley still contacts the belt. There are still mechanical losses from things such as the belt/pulley friction as well as bearing friction within the alternator itself. I figure this mechanical "load" (unless the battery is dead or dying and sucking up a lot of current) is likely much more than the added torque load that's going to be there when the coils of the alternator are excited and it's putting out current. That's why I'm not worried about any fuel economy hit.
I tried to lift up the air box cover after taking out the 4 screws but cannot get enough clearance to take out the air filter. What is the procedure in your Helminc accord OEM service manual for 2004 L4 model for air filter replacement? How to remove the hose from the box and reinstall it back? I see a spring clip around the hose but don't know how to remove it. :confuse: Thanks!
if you lift / levitate the top vertically, do you have a few inches? that's all you need really. the filter is only a few inches in height. with the top lifted, you reach your hand in and lift the filter and pull it out.
I'm having the exact same steering column rattling problem as described in crimsonlaw2002's post from April - a rattling from the steering column area that can be reproduced by tapping on the steering wheel. Does anybody have any idea what this could be? I've taken it to the dealer twice so far. They replaced the steering column and the ignition but it's still rattling.
I'm also having the window creaking problem, so when I take it in again for the steering column rattle, I'm going to ask them to replace the body and door seals...from what I've read on other posts in this forum.
Here is a generic link that will show you what the parts look like. link title
My '03 Accord developed a steering columnn rattle or jiggle around 40k miles.
The dealer replaced the tie rod ends (ball joints) and the jiggle went away. The car was out of warranty & I opened a case# with Honda. They "goodwilled" the labor & parts since this is ridiculous for a brand new Honda or any brand.
The Hondas of today are not the cars they used to be.
Just replaced air filters of our two 03 Accords, and was reminded how difficult this procedure is, having done it at 30k miles about a year and a half ago.
Parts to loosen: all 4 screws of the air box, and big bolt holding the fuse box. The fuse box needs to be loose so you can push it aside with the air box. You need to push hard against the air box to clear the fender edge. Swinging the air box towards the battery won't work because the fender clearance narrows further, making it impossible to lift the air box.
The alternative procedure is to disconnect the various rubber tubes from the air box, but this looked more labor intensive. So I chose the first procedure I described, but not without thinking how user-unfriendly it was.
A dumb question I'm sure, but I just want to confirm...when the dealer replaced my steering column, the tie rod ends wouldn't have been included in what they replaced? Just want to make sure they don't try to tell me they already did that (although they have been fairly helpful). What all does replacing the steering column include?
Chiming in to possibly help. The steering column per se - which by definition is the part from the steering wheel ending at the steering gearbox - hardly wears out, nor do its auxiliary components. Assuming to be true that the column was replaced, the dealer appears to have misdiagnosed the problem.
The remaining causes of noise/looseness would be the steering and suspension parts starting with the steering gearbox all the way to the wheel bearings. Chances are, however, that the defective components are limited to a) the suspension ball joints, b) tie rod ends, and c) steering rack bushings. Less likely to fail is the steering gearbox.
Unless you regularly drive on "washboard" or rutted road surfaces, suspension and steering parts normally last a good 120-150k miles, even more for a Honda.
The current generation Accords, however, have had some abnormal manufacturing defects. My 03 V6's engine mount failed at about 20k, and there's suspension rattling that comes and goes (dealer says it's the brake pad tensioners which they can't do anything about).
In any case, I would attempt goodwill repairs as blackexv6 did considering that your problems are atypical of Honda and could be safety-related.
The current generation Accords, however, have had some abnormal manufacturing defects. My 03 V6's engine mount failed at about 20k, and there's suspension rattling that comes and goes (dealer says it's the brake pad tensioners which they can't do anything about).
Seems like this is a common thing with dealers. They tell people there is no solution to their problem, when they don't know how to fix the problem. I also have an 03 V6, and it does not have this rattle, or any other rattle. I would try another dealer, and see if they have more experience with your problem.
Of course another dealer may not be necessary. You can bring your car to the same dealer 5 times, and not get the same level of service each time. All "techs" are not created equal, unfortunately.
atlantabenny - I'm also in Atlanta. I will try going to the same dealer again to get it fixed. They've treated me well in the past and did try to fix this, but obviously misdiagnosed it. In all fairness, they thought they had fixed it because it was quiet when they test drove it after they worked on it and it was quiet for about a day after I picked it up - then it started to rattle again. Stopping there on my way to work to drop off my car and pick up the free rental isn't more than a couple minutes out of my way, so it's the most convenient. I'll mention to them what I've read here about things to check.
Funny you mention the rutted road surfaces. I do hear the rattling noise from the steering column on smooth surfaces at times, but there is a 10-mile section of I-20 (both Eastbount and Westbound that has a rutted surface (although it's not really deeply rutted, but it's not as smooth as other parts of I-20). It's the only place that I'll be 100% sure to hear the noise every time I drive on it. In fact, I made the Honda technician ride 40 miles roundtrip with me to that part of the interstate to be absolutely sure they heard the noise.
This is the 5th Honda I've owned and I have noticed a difference in quality in the last two (2000 and 2005 Accords). I'm fighting the urge to get a new Chevy Tahoe or Acura TL. The only reason I haven't done it is that I'm about $6K upside down on my car right now (mostly due to the negative equity we rolled into the loan at the start). I know my husband is getting tired of hearing me complain about the rattle and I'm getting sick of hearing it!
Agreed, elroy5. Customer service excellence has become rare these days, which I attribute to dealer management not realizing that delighted customer=repeat service business=repeat car purchase=more used car trades=higher dealer profit.
I have an '03 Accord 4cyl. Based on the vehicle spec from the manufacturers, it should give me 34mpg on the highway and 26mpg in the city. I seem to be getting less than 20mpg !!!!!!!
What does your driving consist of? I routinely get 30 MPG in my I-4 2006 Accord, and that is driving downtown mixed with interstate/suburban driving. I'm rarely stopped except at red lights.
Hey levi1, small world. The Accord is really a soundly engineered if not as soundly assembled car, but for its ability to command premium resale value, it will probably do the best job reversing negative equity.
That said ;-), I'll have the dealer look at the entire front-end system of your car from the hub assembly to the steering column. The steering column may just be transmitting noise/vibration caused by another part/s. That the rattle was eliminated temporarily may have been due to the disassembly & reassembly process where the real culprit part, not necessarily the steering column, was tightened but not enough.
Logic behind this suggestion is that the steering wheel communicates other unrelated problems like unbalanced tires, warped rotors, loose wheel studs, etc.
I assumed the city part; may I ask which city? If you live in Manhattan, you are going to be lucky to break 12 MPG, because the car is running and you aren't moving! The most efficient car can only get decent mileage if it is actually covering some mileage while it is running. If your commute is 30 minutes yet only 3 or 4 miles, your mileage will be terrible regardless of conditions (unless its a hybrid).
The more time you are stopped, the worse your mileage will be. Keep in mind that the EPA assumes an average speed of 20 MPH in their City tests, if you aren't covering that speed, you likely won't get above the low 20s in MPG.
What kind of mileage did you experience with your previous vehicles, was it below EPA estimates also? If so, I'd say nothing is wrong. If you were maintaining at least EPA estimates in your last vehicle, I'd go to a dealer, or at least a qualified mechanic and have your car checked out, because there may be a problem.
I only ask about your city route because one person on another thread complained about his mileage in his new Mercury Milan; what he failed to tell us is that he lives in Manhattan, NYC, NY! He was getting something like 14 MPG.
you might want to fill it and take it out on the highway and drive it for a good long distance, maybe 300-400mi at nearly constant speed 60-65, compute the consumption using miles driven / gallons pumped.
if i were getting horrific highway mileage, i'd be looking at condition of air filter, tire inflation... then condition of injectors (can one get stuck?), cat convertor efficiency, 02 sensor operation, and perhaps even engine timing. i don't know if a vehicle could be set up with out-of-spec timing and you not notice it, but someone claimed recently in one of the ODY forums that was the case in their van. yikes!
but city / stop-and-go? fuel efficiency could be highly variable based on too many things to control. i wouldn't use that as a benchmark against EPA estimates myself.
Someone please help me, I have an 03 EXL 4cyl accord. Was my wifes car until last week when she got an 07 Impala. When I drove the Honda I could never get used to the brakes. The first 1/2 to 1 inch of depressing the pedal does nothing, but then beyond that is like slamming on the brakes. I used to think that I just wasn't used to them since I never drove the car. Now I drive it everyday and I have to actually think about gently depressing the brake pedal so I don't put myself through the windshield. It's not a grabbing effect, rotors are not warped, if I try hard, I can stop smoothly. Are all the brakes on this generation this touchy or do mine need some sort of adjustment? Thanks to all who reply.
I have a Honda Accord 2006 4 Cyl and has only 7200 miles on it. I get a humming noise from the engine when the car is coasting at speeds below about 45 mph. In other words, the noise comes when I remove my foot from the gas pedal and let the car just coast. The noise comes even at 10 mph speed. Is this normal?
The 2003-2007 models have a much more sensitive brake pedal than the previous generation. I had a time trying to get used to it, but now, I wouldn't have it any other way. (I still drive a 1996 Accord, and now, that brake pedal isn't nearly as confidence inspiring as it once was because it has so much more travel, it's seemingly truck-like in comparison).
You'll likely get used to it since you are driving it every day now; it can be a life saver in panic braking (a split second of brakes grabbing the rotors can mean the difference in stopping safely or being the next car in the pile-up.
I highly doubt that it is the car's problem, simply because I experienced exactly what you have told me. Now, I have over 13,000 miles on my 2006 EX and LOVE it!
Yes, the Accord's brakes are touchy for first-time drivers, more so with the lighter EX-L. The brakes of my wife's 03 EX-L with 56k miles are just a little less sensitive versus when new mainly because of pad wear. My 03 V6, heavier by about 200 lbs, is less of a head-bobber but is still a touch sensitive. On the occasions I drive my wife's car, I'm instantly aware of the grabbier brakes. A work-around, I'm guessing, is to use lower-friction brake pads.
....My 03 V6, heavier by about 200 lbs, is less of a head-bobber but is still a touch sensitive.
.....the previous posts on 7th GEN touchy brake feel are spot-on........even somewhat conservative. My linear rocket ship AV6 6M (better numbers than my '69 Corvette) at 20k still has really touchy brake feel.....doesn't take much pressure to feel those pads glom onto rotors..........
How are you measuring the MPG? Just because the fuel gauge reads 1/2 doeesn't mean there is 9 gallons left inthe tank. The best way to measure fuel economy is at fill-up. this way you get the accurate fuel consumed and the miles since last fill-up. Divide the miles by the gallons of gas. this is the most accurate to determine gas mileage.
I would check your air filter as well. that kind of driving will get your filter dirty. A dirty filter can rob you 1-2 mpg.
usually on Hondas for some reason, the gas guage is overly conservative (guess to keep yo from running out of gas!) My Accord has a 17.1 gal tank (IIRC), and dead center on the mid line it takes 8 gallons. Our odyssey with a 21 gal tank takes about 9.5 gals at the same spot I think.
Hi dtownfb, I usually measure my MPG using the trip meter. when I fill up, I reset the trip meter to zero, then check how many miles I have covered when the low fuel indicator comes on. Last check was 232 miles. I gather that the tank still has 3-4 gallons at that point so I estimate another 75 miles top
An aggressive driver hit my rear drivers side bumper (2005 EXL coupe/graphite pearl) in traffic today (and fled of course). Can anyone recommend a product that removes paint from an incident like this? I ran my hand over the damage and most of paint flakes fell off, some didn't.
There is also one scratch just below the paint surface. Will leave that to a professional.
Meguiar's Scratch X is one of the better products I would use to lessen the scratches after I fill the deep scratch. If you plan on leaving the whole project to a pro, it'll cost a few hundred.
I’m not he person who asked the question, but how do you “fill the deep scratch”? I was just wondering what you meant. Are you talking about with paint (for areas that have paint removed), or if there is something that helps fill in scratches (scratches in clear coat)?
Meguiar's Scratch X is one of the better products I would use to lessen the scratches after I fill the deep scratch. If you plan on leaving the whole project to a pro, it'll cost a few hundred.
Thanks, I'll pick some Meguiar's Scratch X tomorrow and try it out. The graphite color does a great job of lessening the appearance of the deeper scratch, it's just the tan paint that has to go.
Would like to find out if anyone knows if its harmful to remove the the 10 amp fuse, #3 on the interior fuse box(pg 284 of owners manual), which controls the daytime running lights. Curious to know if that will cause any damage or any other diagnostic issue that would cause any future problems with the car or not allow the regular lights to operate correctly. Don't like the look of a car with headlights during the day and am not in a state that requires it.
I am almost positive it will not hurt anything to remove the fuse for DRL. All this circuit does is send only "half" the normal voltage to the headlights. Which is why they look much dimmer than normal. Personally, I think safety is more important than looks, but just how much safer the car is with DRL, is debatable.
For the sake of your fellow drivers please don't disable your daytime running lights. If you google "safety daytime running lights" you'll find pro and con arguments for DRL's. My personal experience based on 50 years of driving is that many drivers do not use their headlights at twilight, in cloudy/foggy conditions, or during storms. In these conditions it is important to be seen by other drivers. The white, gray, silver and black cars are especially hard to see in these conditions when their headlights are not on. Countries like Canada and Sweeden with more twilight time than the average, mandate DRL's. Even driving on the Interstate, the DRL could be helpful to see or be seen in a passing situation. I am personally in the safety camp as far as DRL's are concerned and something which is automatic and functions as a safety device for myself and my fellow drivers seems like a good thing. I hope that you will reconsider your efforts. Take care. Ralph
I removed this fuse a year ago, no problems. However, you will have to live with a yellow "DRL" light in the dash, which is diagnostics telling you there's a problem (this is not on at night when the headlights are turned on).
The main thing that annoyed me with DRL was the inability to run the ventilation system in a parking lot (engine off) - without those darn lights coming on, draining the battery. You can't run the ventilation system without putting the ignition key in a position that will turn on the DRL lights.
The main thing that annoyed me with DRL was the inability to run the ventilation system in a parking lot (engine off) - without those darn lights coming on, draining the battery.
Set your parking brake when you turn the car off. When you turn the car back on, the lights don't turn on until you disengage the brake.
I pulled the fuse on my new 07 after deleivery with no problems. Honda's Accord DRL implementation is lame using the highbeams at half voltage. GM did it this cheap way and finally went to better set up. At any rate Toyota is now putting a switch on their cars allowing the owner to make the choice. Incidently, there are no laws mandating the use of DRLs in the US. There is an energy penalty to having lights on at all times. a small amount until you cumulate the usage among all cars using this feature. I think it is an answer to a question no one is asking. What I watch for is that driver on a cell phone!
Comments
See the link below
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/artman/publish/article_173.shtml
Mrbill
Thanks for the explanation. My last (and one and only) Accord, a '96, exhibited the periodic headlight dimming at night, but I'd had a '73 Ford Galaxie 500 that did the same thing. The Ford shop manual said it was normal, so I never followed up on it with the Honda. The factory Delco battery from Honda only lasted six years. Curiously, my '03 Sonata started life under my tutelage with headlight dimming, but eventually stopped after several months. That battery (a Korean made Delco variant branded, "DelKor") is over four years old. Now I wonder whether the Sonata's ELD pooped quietly on its own. If so, Korean cars are wonderful - they fix themselves.
Thanks
Why would it not be covered under the warranty? You are under 36k miles, right?
He needs to clarify why he believes the warranty won't cover it.
i personally don't see how it could improve FE much unless it causes some disconnect of the drive to the alternator which i assume is always engaged and consuming energy from the motor / reducing FE.
then again, if you unload the alternator electrically, i suppose their could be an unloading of the mechanical torque / energy caused by the field magnet arrangement and getting those electrons to their load...
I tried to lift up the air box cover after taking out the 4 screws but cannot get enough clearance to take out the air filter. What is the procedure in your Helminc accord OEM service manual for 2004 L4 model for air filter replacement? How to remove the hose from the box and reinstall it back? I see a spring clip around the hose but don't know how to remove it. :confuse: Thanks!
I'm also having the window creaking problem, so when I take it in again for the steering column rattle, I'm going to ask them to replace the body and door seals...from what I've read on other posts in this forum.
Here is a generic link that will show you what the parts look like. link title
My '03 Accord developed a steering columnn rattle or jiggle around 40k miles.
The dealer replaced the tie rod ends (ball joints) and the jiggle went away. The car was out of warranty & I opened a case# with Honda. They "goodwilled" the labor & parts since this is ridiculous for a brand new Honda or any brand.
The Hondas of today are not the cars they used to be.
Parts to loosen: all 4 screws of the air box, and big bolt holding the fuse box. The fuse box needs to be loose so you can push it aside with the air box. You need to push hard against the air box to clear the fender edge. Swinging the air box towards the battery won't work because the fender clearance narrows further, making it impossible to lift the air box.
The alternative procedure is to disconnect the various rubber tubes from the air box, but this looked more labor intensive. So I chose the first procedure I described, but not without thinking how user-unfriendly it was.
A dumb question I'm sure, but I just want to confirm...when the dealer replaced my steering column, the tie rod ends wouldn't have been included in what they replaced? Just want to make sure they don't try to tell me they already did that (although they have been fairly helpful). What all does replacing the steering column include?
The remaining causes of noise/looseness would be the steering and suspension parts starting with the steering gearbox all the way to the wheel bearings. Chances are, however, that the defective components are limited to a) the suspension ball joints, b) tie rod ends, and c) steering rack bushings. Less likely to fail is the steering gearbox.
Unless you regularly drive on "washboard" or rutted road surfaces, suspension and steering parts normally last a good 120-150k miles, even more for a Honda.
The current generation Accords, however, have had some abnormal manufacturing defects. My 03 V6's engine mount failed at about 20k, and there's suspension rattling that comes and goes (dealer says it's the brake pad tensioners which they can't do anything about).
In any case, I would attempt goodwill repairs as blackexv6 did considering that your problems are atypical of Honda and could be safety-related.
Seems like this is a common thing with dealers. They tell people there is no solution to their problem, when they don't know how to fix the problem. I also have an 03 V6, and it does not have this rattle, or any other rattle. I would try another dealer, and see if they have more experience with your problem.
Of course another dealer may not be necessary. You can bring your car to the same dealer 5 times, and not get the same level of service each time. All "techs" are not created equal, unfortunately.
Funny you mention the rutted road surfaces. I do hear the rattling noise from the steering column on smooth surfaces at times, but there is a 10-mile section of I-20 (both Eastbount and Westbound that has a rutted surface (although it's not really deeply rutted, but it's not as smooth as other parts of I-20). It's the only place that I'll be 100% sure to hear the noise every time I drive on it. In fact, I made the Honda technician ride 40 miles roundtrip with me to that part of the interstate to be absolutely sure they heard the noise.
This is the 5th Honda I've owned and I have noticed a difference in quality in the last two (2000 and 2005 Accords). I'm fighting the urge to get a new Chevy Tahoe or Acura TL. The only reason I haven't done it is that I'm about $6K upside down on my car right now (mostly due to the negative equity we rolled into the loan at the start). I know my husband is getting tired of hearing me complain about the rattle and I'm getting sick of hearing it!
Any one have any ideas why?
Thanks
That said ;-), I'll have the dealer look at the entire front-end system of your car from the hub assembly to the steering column. The steering column may just be transmitting noise/vibration caused by another part/s. That the rattle was eliminated temporarily may have been due to the disassembly & reassembly process where the real culprit part, not necessarily the steering column, was tightened but not enough.
Logic behind this suggestion is that the steering wheel communicates other unrelated problems like unbalanced tires, warped rotors, loose wheel studs, etc.
Let us know what develops, and good luck.
The more time you are stopped, the worse your mileage will be. Keep in mind that the EPA assumes an average speed of 20 MPH in their City tests, if you aren't covering that speed, you likely won't get above the low 20s in MPG.
What kind of mileage did you experience with your previous vehicles, was it below EPA estimates also? If so, I'd say nothing is wrong. If you were maintaining at least EPA estimates in your last vehicle, I'd go to a dealer, or at least a qualified mechanic and have your car checked out, because there may be a problem.
I only ask about your city route because one person on another thread complained about his mileage in his new Mercury Milan; what he failed to tell us is that he lives in Manhattan, NYC, NY! He was getting something like 14 MPG.
The distance from my home to work is between 10-12 miles but it takes me at least 60mins.
I usually fill up my tank on Sunday evening or Monday morning, but by Friday I would have used up half of it and covered only about 120 miles !!!!!
10-12 miles in an hour is much worse than NY.
You could probably bike it in less time and get the benefit of the exercise.
if i were getting horrific highway mileage, i'd be looking at condition of air filter, tire inflation... then condition of injectors (can one get stuck?), cat convertor efficiency, 02 sensor operation, and perhaps even engine timing. i don't know if a vehicle could be set up with out-of-spec timing and you not notice it, but someone claimed recently in one of the ODY forums that was the case in their van. yikes!
but city / stop-and-go? fuel efficiency could be highly variable based on too many things to control. i wouldn't use that as a benchmark against EPA estimates myself.
I'll post my findings
Thanks
Thanks
You'll likely get used to it since you are driving it every day now; it can be a life saver in panic braking (a split second of brakes grabbing the rotors can mean the difference in stopping safely or being the next car in the pile-up.
I highly doubt that it is the car's problem, simply because I experienced exactly what you have told me. Now, I have over 13,000 miles on my 2006 EX and LOVE it!
.....the previous posts on 7th GEN touchy brake feel are spot-on........even somewhat conservative. My linear rocket ship AV6 6M (better numbers than my '69 Corvette) at 20k still has really touchy brake feel.....doesn't take much pressure to feel those pads glom onto rotors..........
...great car.......
best, ez..
I would check your air filter as well. that kind of driving will get your filter dirty. A dirty filter can rob you 1-2 mpg.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Miles Driven / Gallons used
instead of with gauges.
Fill tank (do not round off to the nearest dollar) stop at the first click-off.
Reset trip meter to zero.
Drive, at least until the low indicator light comes on.
Fill tank again (if possible use the same pump, and stop at the first click-off).
Write down number of miles on trip meter, and number of gallons from gas pump (before leaving the gas station).
Divide miles by gallons. This will give you an accurate mileage.
Going by the fuel gauge, or the low fuel indicator, is very inaccurate.
There is also one scratch just below the paint surface. Will leave that to a professional.
Thanks, I'll pick some Meguiar's Scratch X tomorrow and try it out. The graphite color does a great job of lessening the appearance of the deeper scratch, it's just the tan paint that has to go.
I am personally in the safety camp as far as DRL's are concerned and something which is automatic and functions as a safety device for myself and my fellow drivers seems like a good thing. I hope that you will reconsider your efforts. Take care. Ralph
The main thing that annoyed me with DRL was the inability to run the ventilation system in a parking lot (engine off) - without those darn lights coming on, draining the battery. You can't run the ventilation system without putting the ignition key in a position that will turn on the DRL lights.
Steve (LX 4Dr 06 Accord)
Set your parking brake when you turn the car off. When you turn the car back on, the lights don't turn on until you disengage the brake.