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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an '05 EX-L and I have a timing chain. I thought that this body style all had timing chains. I have 95,000 miles. What have you had to do to yours in 185,000?
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Only the 4 cylinder models have chains. I found that quite nice since the chains require less maintenance than the belts, but I can't speak to long-term repairs because I only have 73,000 miles and the car is 7 years old. I got it when it was 4 years old with 36k.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I thought that this body style all had timing chains.

    The V6 engines all have timing belts, even the Acura cars have timing belts.

    What have you had to do to yours in 185,000?

    The only repair I've paid for is a driver's door lock actuator (it started to move slowly up and down), which I changed myself ($35). The windshield wiper motor recall, and radio light extended warranty were paid for by Honda. Can't complain about that.

    My 03 EX (L) V6 only has 75k miles on it, but the timing belt change interval is 7 years or 105k miles. It will be 7 years old in September, so the belt will be changed shortly after that. I think the timing belt would last till 10 years (that's about how long it will take me to get to 105k miles), but I'm not going to chance that. I already have the Helm factory manual, with all the details, but I'm gathering helpful hints from techs, and pictures from how-to's on the internet. It seems the main concern most people have is removing the crank pulley bolt, but we have tools where I work, than can remove much larger/tighter bolts than that little thing.
  • edhollowedhollow Posts: 8
    In response to your question, "what have I done to ours in 185K miles"? Mostly, oil changes religiously every 4 to 5k miles; serpentine belt change at 100,000 miles; coolant changes every 50,000 miles--Honda coolant only; changed and flushed pwr steering fluid at 90,000 miles; tires--Michelin MXV4 S8 replaced at 90,000 miles, because they were rotated every 4k miles( replaced with Michelin Primacy MXV4, better, smoother, sturdier, more responsive ride); A/T fluid drained, refilled every 15 to 30k miles; alignment every 15 to 30K miles as needed, that is why we got "killer" miles from our tires--the tires are "V" rated, about $155-$165 apiece, but worth peace of mind for safety for my wife; and finally, pads and rotor(s), replacement as needed, which for us has been once for the front, and 2X for the rear rotors. O yeah, just replaced all the heater and radiator hoses, at 185,000 miles! Honda parts hold up great, and I usually pick them up at cost, from my local dealership. You can also establish a buying relationship w/ dealers parts dept. or receive them from Rockauto.com . Hope this helps?! edhollow
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    I'd tell the body shop what's happening. They should be able to correct it pretty quickly... the seal takes some manipulation and funky tools but it shouldn't take them long to see what's going on.

    Good luck!
  • I have a 2003 Accord Coupe and my rear tail lights won't come on. My brake, reverse and signal lights all work. I've changed the bulbs and checked the fuse and they are all ok. What else could be wrong?
  • The pads on my LF caliper have been hanging-up and dragging on the rotor. A few days ago I removed the pads, cleaned the hardware/backing plate for the pads and lubed all contact points/sliders using a brake lube that I received from the local dealer.

    I did notice that the pads fit very tight into the caliper bracket to the point where I had to hammer them back into place.

    It’s been a few days and I now have the same problem. I’m thinking of taking it apart again and filing some metal off of the brake pad baking plate so that they fit easily into the caliper.

    Is there an issue with this approach of slightly modifying the backing plate? Under normal circumstance I would think that the caliper piston is the cause however the pads are in the mounting bracket so tightly that they may not be backing off of the rotor.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
    Note that these are the original calipers with 62k and newer OEM rotors and pads (about 15k miles).
    Thank you.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,690
    might be the contact switch on the brake pedal itself (the gizmo that decides you are pushing the brake pedal down so the tail lights should be switched on).

    Try putting the parking brake on with the car running. Pretty sure that will turn on the brake lights too, right?

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I've never heard that the parking brake would engage the taillights. I should look at that myself out of pure curiosity.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Parking brake...

    It won't turn on the brake-lamps.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,690
    I thought that when you put the parking brake on while the car was running the brake lights went on.

    Easy enough to find out I guess!

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The pads should not be tight in the calliper brackets. You probably have rust build-up on the calliper brackets, making the clips tight against the pads. Take the pads and clips off of the brackets, and scrape any rust off. If you are using oem pads and shims, you should be able to remove and replace them with your fingers. If you need to beat the pads in with a hammer, they're way too tight. I may have saved a link, with a video on how to clean the callipers. I'll try to find it.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I just tried out of sheer curiosity and they don't illuminate when the parking break is applied and the engine is running.
  • Thanks for the advice! I did take them apart on Sat and cleaned/lubed the caliper brackets, backing plates and mounting hardware with a my rotary tool but I was hesitant to do much more than that.

    So you suggest focusing more on the caliper bracket as opposed to the backing plate? I plan on taking it apart again this evening and using some metal files to get the surfaces clear of the build up.

    If that doesn't work I'm going all out with new calipers and rotors though I'm not crazy about burning the money :cry:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited March 2010
    The backing plate should not be tight in the calliper. These are oem pads and shims right? If so, the pads and shims should not be tight in the calliper. When you install the pads, they should fit snugly, in the end clips, but you should not have to use much force. If you live in an area where they use road salts, the callipers could need cleaning as often as every 6 months. If you are using the old shims (backing plates), make sure they don't have any rust on them. Be sure to apply the moly-cote (never seize looking stuff that comes with the pads) between the pads and shims, and also on the edges of the pads, where they fit into the end clips. Do you have a service manual, that explains all this?
  • The pads are OEM. I do live in the North East and road salt is a factor. I have the Honda service manual but it doesn't go into any detail on how to combat corrosion.

    I did take it apart again last night and filed that caliper bracket/backing plates and the pads now slide with only a little drag. I lubed the sliders/contact points again with the lube provider by the dealer. I'll get the name of it and reply to this post.

    Thank you!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello -

    I recently got in contact with the body shop and they found that the cables leading from the handle to the latch were sticking (now I'm not sure if this was the bodyshops fault), but they lubricated the cables and installed everything correctly again anyway.

    Thank you for your advice.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I lubed the sliders/contact points again with the lube provider by the dealer. I'll get the name of it and reply to this post.

    Some people have used the gray/silver paste, that comes with the pads, to lubricate the slide pins, and say it works, but I prefer using calliper grease for the pins. I don't know if the paste works well on the pins or not. Sounds like you have the pads fitting right now, so hopefully it will solve the problem. Good luck
  • he8833he8833 Posts: 52
    edited March 2010
    I just had the rotors and pads replaced in the rear on my 2007 SEV6 Accord...However it seems now like the fronts could be slipping? When I come to a stop I'm hearing some kind of squeak I want to say from the front....Whats intresting is I had them replaced @ the local shop, but it was the dealer who first recomended getting the rears replaced, but didnt mention the front pads looked that bad?

    Could the fronts be slipping and making the noise? Is it best to get the front and back done at the same time? Or should this not really matter assuming the fronts are not that bad
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited March 2010
    There is no need to change the front and rear pads at the same time (just don't change only one side of the rear or front). The squeak sound could be a lot of things, including dust, wear indicators, metal backing plate contacting the rotor, or simply the paste between the pads and shims has lost it's effectiveness. It would be a good idea to check the front brakes, to make sure you are not scoring the rotors.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 16
    Anyone here have their knock sensor wire chewed through by a rodent? This seems to be a common problem on the V6. In fact, the replacement wire you buy from Honda has pictures of rats on it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    I have not had any problems with chewed wires, but last Spring I did find rodent droppings and seed coats on the intake manifold of my Accord V6. After I found the droppings I set some mouse traps in my garage and caught five of the little buggers. Now when I check the oil, coolant, etc. of all the cars in my garage I also check for rodent droppings!! The three mouse traps I've kept in my garage have not caught any additional unwanted residents.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Good place for little buggers to hide during the winter is inside the engine air filter housing. Found acorns & hay in the housing when I replaced the engine air filter for my in-law.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    My front Interior overlhead lights have stopped working. I changed a bulb, didn't work. The door switch seems to be good as the rear light comes on by opening the driver's door. Just not the front interior light.
    I believe both front and rear interior lights would be out if the fuse were defective. The rear interior overhead light works fine.
    Neither light will come on.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Get a cat, they keep the mice away.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    Please don't take this the wrong way, but did you make sure the On-Off switch for the lights is in the On position??
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    I've got two cats, but they don't live in the garage!! They do a great job inside the house. Mouse traps with peanut butter and sealing off possible rodent entry cracks seems to have worked just fine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    They actually don't have a switch for on and off. You can select "Door" or "Off" - off being the selection for when you don't want them to illuminate upon unlocking/opening the door. To turn the lights on you simply push the light housing itself.
  • I have a problem which seems to be related to this one. My driver's side panel (for locking doors, moving outside mirrors and opening any window) is acting funny. I moved my sideview mirror and the back passenger's side window opened, too. Now, the automatic lock opener is acting intermittently nutty. I think the whole harnass in that door will have to be checked out and you know how Honda loves those jobs because they're so labor intensive.
  • buyahomebuyahome Posts: 26
    My '04 did that a couple of times. Try this...works every time. Take your hand and just bang it (as if you were turning it on). It just needs a little "encouraging". About twice a year I have to do it to mine. Good luck and don't be afraid to "punch it".
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Yes I did move it to both postions, It still could involve the switch however. Also pushing the clear plastic covers does not turn either light on.
    the light acted odd for a week or two and then failed. If the fuse is blown the rear light would be out also wouldn't it?
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    According to the wiring diagram in the Haynes repair manual there is a multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) that regulates the door courtesy lights and the ceiling light. If the door lights are working and the ceiling light is the problem the MICU is probably ok. I would check continuity of the ceiling light ground wire (white/Blue) and the hot wire(green/red) as well as the switch. Locating the MICU might require a good wiring diagram or a Google search, so let's hope it is the switch.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Bioman, thank you for the info. the door lights do work, and
    I checked "buyahomes" suggestion that I bang on the overhead light assembly. I did and the passenger side light
    came on.
    I will try someones suggestion to check the ground wire,
    if I can figure out how to get to it.
    thanks all, maybe honda needs to include a rubber mallet
    with their cars.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    What manual are you using to get color codes on the wire? I found a haynes manual for about $20 that looks good, but I like the idea of wire color codes.
    Looks like the honda needs it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The Haynes Manual's schematic diagrams have the wiring labeled as per my last post.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The Haynes Manual's schematic diagrams have the wiring labeled as per my last post.
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    Arg. The flip-up coin door is no longer staying closed. It just stays open all the time. When moving the door 100% up and 100% down (with decent pressure at 100% closed position to see if locking mechanism will engage), fast or slow, the door moves smoothly and there no clicking, friction or any other indicator that the door locking mechanism is broken... it's almost as if the locking mechanism was no longer attached to the door assembly.

    Any thoughts? I'd hate to have to buy another assembly but that might the fastest and least frustrating route to take.

    Thanks in advance!
  • I have the same problem, only it's the center console behind the coin box. I can bring it all the way down and it just snaps up; no latching appears to happen. I just leave it open, although I know that isn't an attractive option for the coin box.
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Posts: 30
    Both my door locks are now broken - they will not go up and down - with the flob or with the switch that is in the car........
    does anyone know what is the problem.... Honda Accord 2004..... EXL rl :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    so this is a coupe? If so, it seems unlikely that both door actuators would fail at the same time. I'd check the fuse for the locking system.
  • finzzfinzz Posts: 40
    I have 102k miles on my accord and notice that when driving around town - 25 mph speed limit If I hit the gas to maintain speed up an incline or simply give the gas a little tap AND the tachometer is hoovering in the neighborhood of 1250 - 1500 RPM, I can feel a shudder.bucking motion through the car. Doesn't matter if the car is cold or at normal operating temp and this also happens only when in high gear and is getting progressively worse

    A better way to explain it: It feels the same as if you were driving a manual transmission in too high a gear and that feeling you get thru the car when it's "telling" you to downshift... the bucking/shuddering motion. That's the way it feels

    If I step harder on the gas, it won't behave this way.. only if I'm being very "gentle"

    I hope I explained that well enough...

    Anyone hear of or have a similar issue?

    Anyone have any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2010
    Sounds like the torque converter lock up clutch. Could be some wear but I wouldn't necessarily be biting my nails just yet.

    READ MORE HERE
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,690
    yeah, that sounds like it is related to the torque converter. certainly worth getting checked out.

    if you haven't yet, getting the fluid changed (the honda way, with honda fluid) may help.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • fcbabe21fcbabe21 Posts: 1
    I had an oil change done 2 days ago. Today, the check engine light came on and the car "missed 4 times" over the course of about 4 miles. The check engine light is still on. Went to local auto parts store, they ran the general code and it said Racket arm actuator. The guy ran that code and made it specifically for 07 Honda's and it stated several reasons that lead to oil pressure issues. Checked the oil, VERY LOW, after oil change. There is no oil leak. Most likely they did not put enough oil in when changing it. Is this a common issue with Honda's. I've never heard of this and neither have any of my mechanic friends. Also, the oil pressure low indicator light has not come on even though the oil is very low. Any suggestions? 2007 Honda Accord Lx 4dr.
  • jonahdogjonahdog Posts: 28
    He probably meant "Rocker Arm Actuator". Have you added oil to bring up to correct level? I am guessing the Rocker code was brought on by the low oil level. I don't think this particular problem is common on Accords - seems more so on older CRVs. I always check the work done before leaving the mechanic (even if it's a dealer). I once had an oil drain plug come out on the way home (on the interstate - very bad). I paid for an oil change that "wasn't done" (they made it right - but if I hadn't checked??) and several times they have failed to top of the fluid level after starting the car. Anyway, you might check out this thread (similar or same problem as yours) www.honda-tech.com thread 1706098
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    I have a 2006 EX-V6 with about 54K miles. I love the car, but have noticed the plastic material that is behind the steering wheel controls (volume and cruise) is sticking up. There is fabric that covers the hard plastic. The plastic seems bent up where it meets the corner. I tried to bend it down, but it comes back up. Any ideas to make it stay down? I thought about putting some strong glue in there and putting a clamp on it. Thanks.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an '05 Accord EX-L and I think you are talking about the edges that pop up on the steering wheel behind the controls. Mine does the same. I do not remember if it has always done that. If this is what you are talking about, I would not do anything to it.
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    That's it. It's not a big deal, but when I see them sticking up, I want to fix it.
  • I started to replace the rear struts on my accord. To my consternation though, I can't seem to see where the top of the strut assembly is bolted. I know it must be in the trunk area, but it appears that it might be behind the leather rear seating. Anyone on here able to guide me in step by step fashion on getting the strut assembly out?
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    My 03EXV6 has the same thing. I wouldn't bother fixing it.
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