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My sister scraped my front right rim. She scraped the outer part of the rim and she did it by hitting the curb while parking , but anyways is there a way to fix the scrape, like paint or something? Or should I buy another rim? (It is a really depressing, horrific scrape. Half of the outer rim is shredded and the gray is literally not there.)
My second question is a very minor problem but I'll write it anyway:
I don't know if it is just me but it seems like the dark gray color on the rims is somewhat fading. I clean my rims with Black Magic Wheel Cleaner (spray on, hose off). I've been using it ever since I have gotten my car. Has anybody else noticed the fading? Or is it the cleaner that is making the fading? I read the instructions and it says to do it on a cool wheel (which I did) and leave on for max 30 sec. (which I also do). So...cleaner or just me?
BTW: I bought my car brand new and it is a G. Gray 05 Accord Coupe just purchased last year (I just hit 6000 miles)
I wanted to rotate the tires on it but don't know the pattern. Do we just swap the fronts with the back or do we cross the vehicle also (drivers rear going to passenger front.)
Also, my outer edges on the tire have a smooth edge on the front of the tread block but if you move your hand forward the other way it has a raised sharp edge. Is that tire pressure, alignment or normal? It has 15K on it.
LR -> RF
RR -> LF
LF -> LR
RF -> RR
The uneven wear maybe due to extended use without rotating the tires. If the wheels are out of alignment, you'll observe difficulty in turning the steering wheel & sometimes a noticeable drag to one side. Maintain the air pressure to the recommended psi & rotate the tire every 10k miles.
Another strange problem is that my headlights' brightness will change noticably (and annoyingly) while I drive. Sometimes every 5-10 secs and mostly after driving for a while. I had the dealer check the electrical systems and nothing was wrong (they said). It appears to follow the charging cycle for the battery. I have never seen that on any other car but the service guy at the dealer claimed his car did the same. Anyone have comments about this?
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1123052400000_1124089200000_05-034/index.html
Mrbill
But, I have the manual tranny, so I have no ne to blame but mself if they aren't!
Every time I read a Honda AT topic it makes me even happier that I drive a stick, and the Accord has one of the best trans/clutch combos I have ever driven.
Too bad I couldn't get a stick in our Odyssey!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
.....exactly what a salesdude indicated during my recent 15k service. I carefully questioned him and asked for clarification. He insists the 5-speed manual transmission is superior to the 6M in operation. I've driven both and have long voiced my frustration on the 6M's vague clutch. But I really am baffled with extolling the 5M over the 6M.
D'guispitus non-desputandem........
..ez..
Have any of you had this Defective Digital Display?
Or was this just on the 2003 model year?
Thanks,
GregB
I test drove a 6MT & feel the gearbox has scope for improvement. I'm sure Honda will refine the new gearbox.
Have any of you had this Defective Digital Display?
Or was this just on the 2003 model year?
Thanks,
My father has a 2005 Accord EX - 51,000 miles, and I have a 2006 Accord EX - 7,800 miles, and neither has had the display problem. My dad DID have it go out in his 2003 Accord, but we figured it was due to him being rear-ended and spilling coffee all over the dash upon impact (it even went in the CD player, at least we thought...it played discs though, just no display.
Probably way too late to be of any help, but it may be time for a new airfilter element. Of less liklihood, is wifey pressing the accelerator pedal when she restarts a warm engine? If so, she could be inadvertently flooding the engine. The ECM will provide the proper fuel amount except at the very coldest ambient temperatures upon first cold startup. Otherwise, leave the accelerator pedal completely alone, hot or cold.
Keywords: light lights headlight headlights dimming dim shifting transmission battery charging
--> headlights go bright and dim as car shifts - seems to be when transmission engages from coasting to driving.
I can duplicate at will!!!
I was searching the edmunds forum because I've been having this UNACCEPTABLE problem with my 03 EX V6 for over a year...started AFTER I had the car for a year! Dealer said it's normal due to charging system trying to save fuel mileage, which is CRAP because it didn't do it for a year!
DID YOU HAVE SUCCESS RESOLVING THIS?
The dealer recently showed me the service bulletin, but said they hadn't tried it on anyone's car yet.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
direct emails are mtpuntin@aol.com and mpuntin@climatehvac.com
Mike P.
Massachusetts
I can understand how his comments came across as condescending to an aware owner, but I'm not sure that's how he intended them. Remember - he comes across all types and most of us don't have "IQ" displays embedded in our foreheads. (That's not to say there aren't condescending service writers at dealerships - I've run across a few and they never get my repeat business again.) One other thing to consider is that owners' manuals almost always have two service interval charts: one for "normal service" and the other for "severe service". I do my own oil change servicing on my Sonata and I've given up trying to intelligently determine when to switch to the "severe service" regimen. Consequently, I just make it a habit to use the "severe service" schedule exclusively, year 'round - no question then about whether I guessed wrong and am doing damage to my engine. A mechanic friend of my dad's gave my dad a tip about oil change intervals a long time ago. Eddie said that if you see any beginning build-up of dark red on the oil dipstick, it's varnish and you'd better start changing oil more frequently because your oil is being overdriven for the conditions it's exposed to. Maybe simplistic, but dad, and now myself over my own 44 years of driving and maintaining my cars, always adherred to that little pearl.
Origionally ALL radial tires were directional once placed in service and required being retained on the side of the car they were initially installed on because they took a "set" that would reduce their service life if x-rotated. Many current upper tier performance radials are manufactured directional and must be installed initially and later maintained according to an arrow designating forward direction molded into the sidewall. (If you x-rotated these tires, they're direction arrows would end up pointing rearward.) Current standard performance radial tires, however, have been safely capable of x-rotation, just as older bial-ply tires were, for the past decade, though.
According the my owner's manual, I am to change the oil according the Maintenance Minder. It calculates when the oil should be changed based on the driving conditions the car is subjected to. There is no normal and severe service schedule. The car's computer figures it out for you. My 2000 Mercedes has something similar and I've always followed it, with oil changes happening about every 13,000 miles. At over 71,000 mechanically trouble-free miles, it still runs great and burns no oil. BMW has a similar system and GM has had it now for a few years too. What I found irritating was I stated several time that my Accord was a 2006 model, not a 05 or earlier which did not have the maintenance computer, and yet the service tech continued to "quote" his script about oil changes. My first oil change at the dealer service department may be my last there. :mad:
robgrave
Is it normal for the electric fans to come on after that long of a cool down period? Maybe it has a bad sensor or some other problem.
Thanks for any comments.
I guess I assumed it was "normal," but still, not exactly good news. Better get used to frequent wheel washes, I suppose. It does wash off easily enough, at least.
Thanx for the reply. -- Robgrave
I'm suspecting Honda is using a different pad material, to be causing this dust buildup. I'll be curious to see if it subsides after the brakes are broken in.
Yes, it does seem to be a bit excessive (though I have no previous experience with alloys to compare.) And I am hoping it is mainly a "new brakes" phenomenon.
Time will tell. With less than 150 miles on the car, it's too soon to judge.
Robgrave
EDIT: I notice from previous postings in this thread that ceramic pads (as opposed to semi-metallic) generate more dust. Ceramic pads are now factory issue for Honda? I don't know.
An informed posting here on this issue would be much appreciated.
Robgrave
But wouldn't the hard (3/4) throttle automatically create the downshift to D3? What is actually gained by manually downshifting?
I'm a bit timid about my new Accord, I suppose [and hard throttles aren't recommended during the break-in period, in any case], but is it really perfectly safe to use the powertrain this way?
Robgrave
I'm just questioning whether it would ever be advisable to manually downshift under those conditions, even if the engine is primed and ready to take it. It's the stress on the transmission I was wondering about, not the engine.
The owner's manual does allow for shifting through the gears manually -- i.e., operating the automatic as if it were a manual trans -- but only in the context of more conservative operations, like dropping to D3 on a downslope to take advantage of the breaking power of the engine (thus taking stress off the brakes themselves.) Throwing the trans down a notch to begin a hard acceleration (more of a sports car maneuver, really) is something else again.
What the heck, it would be great fun to drive my Accord like that; not so much fun, however, to have to replace a blown-out transmission for having abused it. And that's why I raised the question: is the Accord AT fully manumatic in that sense, or would it be flirting with a breakdown to drive it that way?
Experienced Accord owners will have their opinions, I'm sure. Me, I'm more than willing to read what they have to say.
Robgrave
Funny thing is though, I find myself resting my right hand on the shift selector as I drive. I don't know, it just seems more natural than resting my arm on the console arm rest. In anticipation of the day, after break-in, when I will aggressively downshift for a strong acceleration? I don't know, if the car's meant to take it, I can see myself doing it now and again. Just for the fun of it.
Then again, maybe the best advice is to simply let the AT do its job without manual prompting. That's what the salesman told me when I asked about it, and I listen to everyone and anyone who has more experience with Hondas than I do (that's just about everyone, really!)
Just opening a possible new debate topic for the forum...(getting tired of reading about correct oil change intervals, you know?)
Robgrave
Reference: --- 2003 Accord front seat
Saturday I took a friend down to the Jersy Shore to do some fishing on his boat. We took the Accord. After sitting in the passenger seat for an hour, he started to complain about the lack of comfort of the seat. He is correct in his assessment of the quality / comfort of the seat. My accord is a four cylinder, and the seats are leather. Honda does not allow the customer to have a power seat with a four cylinder engine, on the passenger side of the vehicle. Even the "driver's power seat", while better than the "passenger's non-power seat", is not that much better with regards to comfort. The seat is JUST TOO HARD, and the angle of the seat, in relation the the position to the driver's legs, does not allow for comfort on a long trip. The seat needs to be softer, higher and flat. (No side wings). I use a "soft pillow" on the bottom of the leather dirver's seat for comfort! ---- Best regards. Dwayne
there have been a few instances when merging into ATL traffic on 285 where it was necessary to drop my '02 4CYL AT 4Dr out of D and into a lower gear.
but, i do not on a regular basis shift the AT like a manual. it's just not designed for this purpose and done on a regular basis, i can imagine it leading to premature wear/failure.
I have cloth interior (leather seats felt even firmer than my cloth, not sure why), so sliding isnt an issue with me.
One more example of different strokes....
"The mechanical end of the four cylinder Accord is ok"
Just "ok"??? Even those who are not big fans of the Accord would say the I4 is a great engine.
When my Accord was 4 months old in Dec., '03, I drove it 8.5 hours with only 3 brief stops and the driver's seat was supportive and comfortable with no tendency for me to squirm at all. And my back hurts much of the time-- but not while I'm in the Accord!
The 4 cylinder engine is great in the city and on the highway, too. Part of that 8.5 hour drive from San Francisco to Palm Springs was over the Grapevine--a long, steep hill. The engine drove effortlessly. Highway mileage was 33.2 MPG and combined MPG is usually 24 to 25 in mixed driving around the San Francisco area. At 80 MPH the Accord's engine is nearly silent running at about 2500 RPM. There's no need for the V6 unless you plan to carry heavy loads or pull a trailer.
I've never enjoyed a car more.