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I will check rpms @ mph next time out and let you know.
RPM----Calculated-Observed
1800--------62.8---------62
1900--------66.2---------65
Farout
Farout
Each source has it's own interest.
The Bosch booklets are useful to understand and predict the problems the injection system will encounter. The repair manual cd will mainly help you trace the error codes and be just a bit more helpful than the 'Chilton' book that you can have next to you when you get your hands dirty.
In all cases I search the internet to access the manufacturer's database for a typical element or it's technical brochure. Because of possible copyrights I don't want to publish these files.
Farout
I had the F37 recall (torque converter replacement) completed Dec 2006. Soon after I found that when I turned the vehicle off and removed the key, the radio would mysteriously come back on and it was as if I had turned the key back on! This continued to happen, but only occasionally (it's a little embarrasing to walk out to the parking lot and hear your radio blasting!) I don't know if the problem has anything at all to do with the F37 recall and it may be just a coincidence.
I was ready to take it into the dealer but the problem seemed to have corrected itself. It hasn't corrected itself and the dealer has now replaced the Body Control Module, the radio and the battery. They're stumped. I'm bummed. I can't trust the jeep and won't be taking it into the high country until this gets resolved. I'm also irritated because I LOVE the CRD, with the exception of this issue.
Any ideas?
When stopping the engine and while it still turns to reach complete standstill, whatever I do with the switches screws up the Body Control Module. I think the BCM doesn't enjoy simultaneous changes of voltage and controls.
I get one headlight turned on out of two or the interior lights stay on. I usually turn the key to "acc" position, do the reverse switching and this solves the problem.
The same problem occurs on my professional car: It won't turn the windshield wipers on when it rains :lemon:
We had our CRD in the shop 25 times in 15 months. Many times were for the same issues.
Without asking Customer Care sent our case to the higher ups, then to DCX Headquarters. Then to the District Rep. DCX is buying our Liberty CRD for what we paid for it and we pay a mileage use fee. I am not at liberty to disclose that fee until this is completely resloved. We have almost 30,000 miles on it. We are to wind this all up in about 2 weeks. The big issue is to prove everything you have had done. We only had one oil change done by a place other than DCX.
Being rude or angry will only make things worse, be cool and don't bad mouth any dealer or person, doing so makes you an adversary, and they reject bad attitudes. Hope this helps.
Farout
farout
farout
Farout
I'm looking for side protection without loosing ground clearance, something different to the standard boiler type of tubes hanging below the chassis.
I also live in Michigan, does the weather really decrease the milage. I have a late 06' and have never gotten greater than 20 mpg. I purchased late fall so it has never ran in warmer weather. currently it has 11,000 miles on it. thanks
Nescosmo......
Nescosmo.
It is still puzzling to me, my gas consumption I thought got better after the last visit but it didn't. It is better but not how it used to be. It used to be 8L/100km and now it's 10.5L/100km and that is if I use Petro Canada gas station, any other gas station in Ontario will give me 13L/100km. I've changed the fuel filter recently and got new alternator(it went very quickly) but no change. It seems that the low sulphur is the issue in my case but I will look into the change you have made
Air temperature plays an important role; low sulfur diesel will also be a penalty; winterized fuel will add one more penalty. I noticed that when fuel doesn't smell bad, mileage decreases. Nowadays after filling the tank I can predict mileage by smelling the hand that held the hose. :sick:
The bottom line is that in addition to all the repairs I had to do, I have to watch what diesel I put in it to get a good mileage. This car is a lot of work.
I still haven't the faint est clue about a replacement truck that can park in a tiny spot, carry 4 adults + luggage, have a real transfer case and get 5 star rating in a crash-test.
Turbo/Super boost control solenoid A circuit low
any help with a cause or where to look would be appreciated
Greg
As long as the engine can idle (it then needs no boost, no throttle) it has "everything" to run. Did you buy another CRD?
Thanks!!
Thanks.
I am new to the forum and juat wanted to say Hi and to thank whoever started this up. I own an 04 2.5 CRD Sport with the VM engine and manual gearbox,had a problem with the transfer case postion sensor showing that I was in 4x4 high ratio part time when I was really in 2 high rear wheel drive. Thanks to Richard and a diagram sorted in minutes!
I see some people giving the VM engine some bad press, let me say that over here in Europe ( UK ) we have had variants of these engines for many years and they really are stonking bullet proof motors, the real problem is the electronic emmission control crap that the makers are forced to hang on them so we can save the planet!
Are you concerned or/and aware of the modification of the oil hoses running vertically along the right hand side of the 2.5 Ltr engine?
I have the first generation of the 2.8 Ltr that's similar to yours. There is a kit with a large clamp for holding the rubber hoses and preventing them from getting loose after a few hours of tough riding. Do you go offroad or is it forbidden and regulated like on the continent?
By the way, have you disconnected your EGR valve by plugging its vacuum tube? The newer rigs can't do it this way.
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To remove the alternator, there are two long bolts:
- One is close to the engine (where the serpentine belt passes); you will need to pass the hex key through the ring wrench first and use both tools to remove this soft steel bolt. This is a pain because 7mm hex is not really standard and the low profile female hex bolt head should have been made a little harder
- The other bolt uses standard sizes (13 and 15mm).
The ring wrench can apply torsion onto the hex key right next to the head of the bolt without the risk of widening the female hex. The complete alternator changing time including battery disconnection / re connection, serpentine belt removal and reassembly took me less than 30 minutes once I had the 7mm hex key in hand.
Once I re started the engine, I measured the new alternator output:
- Idling voltage immediately reached 14.20 Volts A/C was still 'ON'
- With front and rear fog lights + headlamps + blower set to '4' + mirrors and boot de-icing I measured 13.70 Volts at idle speed.
- There is no voltage loss between the alternator body and vehicle ground. The same applies between the '+' terminal of the alternator and the '+' of the battery.
- Measured AC ripple is less than 25 mV with the new regulator. This value was measured 9 times higher (.23V) when the regulator had gone.
Sorry I haven't replied before now, yes I have had the mod for for securing hoses although never had a problem with it anyhow. I have disconnected both the EGR and air flow meter to try and get some more mpg as the price of fuel here is crippling, can stretch out to about 34 mpgbut a lot less when towing.Off roading here is very different to the US thanks to all the 'friends of the earth' I use mine to get me to rural areas where I shoot wild game and am really pleased with its off road ability, as good as a Land Rover Defender but with creature comforts!