Based on these numbers and my experience, I would try to get as close to $45,900 as possible, thus I'd offer $45,000 and go as high as maybe 46000, Good luck Steve
It seems the prices people get in the Midwest are higher than, say, in California. It's not impossible to get a good quote below invoice, but you probably be about $1K below at best. Good luck!
Hi Steve, I live in the Bay Area and planning to buy an RX 350. Can I just outright tell the dealership to take out doc fees and other add ons?? I understand that it's part of the 'fees' like taxes, destination, etc that you pay when you buy a new car or am I mistaken?
You are correct.. dealers add doc fee's onto your negotiated sale price along with dmv fee's and taxes. If dealer wont remove doc fee's you add them onto your asking price.. that would make it a wash on the bill of sale.. you need to ask dealer if he will remove doc fee's before you agree on a price. i buy several cars every few years and i find most dealerships wont remove there doc fee's.
The key to getting a good deal is buying the last days of any month and knowing each dealerships doc fee's before making your offer to buy.
Bought similar configuration for$43445 and it went to $44183 (all fees included $738) + $2316 TAVT (GA TAX) to be able to get desired color combination.
TOTAL out of dealership cost $46500
MSRP was $49637 the vehicle negotiated price was about $6200 below MSRP (12.5%) and my total cost (all fees/taxes included) $46500.
Nalley Galeria Lexus Smyrna GA Ask for Heather, internet sales manager. I went through PenFed car buying service and got 0.74% financing for 48 months.
Hi, I am in the searching of Lexus RX 350, I went to Wilkie lexus this Friday and the price they quote was $250 above invoice plus $719 LDA, so it is $1000 above invoice price, how do you think this deal? Any commands or buying experience is appreciated.
Hello, this is my first time car shopping. I'm looking to purchase a white 2010 rx 350 awd with nav around 30k miles or less. I found one that had 26k miles, special internet sticker price of $32990, reg sticker $34990 and they offered me 36k out the door. I went home and offered them 33k, and a few hours later they told me they sold it for 36k. I wasn't too upset though because it had a lot of little nicks and more wear than necessary on the drivers side seat and I really didn't take a liking to the salesman and manager there.
I went to another location, sticker price $37k for a 30k mile car. They offered me 36k as well as a bottom line price. Car was in much better condition with new tires but has 4k more miles and no rear sensors. Seemed like a more thorough and better dealership. did not charge me anything aside from tax, registration fees, although it seems their price is more inflated than other dealers in the tri-state area which in the end, I ended up at 36k.
Anyway, for my specs. CPO WHITE 2010 30K LESS MILES, AWD NAV. What price should I be aiming for on this 3 year old car? What is a avg quote, what is a good quote? Any responses would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance I'm looking to buy a car as soon as possible, like Monday god willing, but in max, two weeks time, you think there would be more cars rolling in? It's been really hard to find the white 2010's with nav.
Does the invoice price include the destination charge? or is in addition to the invoice price? in FL the best I have got a quote is $200 below invoice.
The destination is part of the invoice price. Its non-negotiable.
You should be able to get good deals in Florida since there are many dealers. Call several dealers on the phone and see if they can meet "your" price. Only then, do you walk into the dealership.
Don't ask for a quote. You drive the negotiation process. Tell them your price, but calculate it approx. $2000 below invoice. Keep in mind they have an approx. 3% holdback which is approx 3% of the base MSRP. That means that even if they sell at invoice they make a minimum profit of 3%. They also have other incentives.
Make sure you control the process. Never ask them for a quote. Steve
Steve is right about negotiating.... Adding to.. You should start your buying process the last week of any month preferably the last 2 days,last day. Dealers trying to make there sales quotas/ incentives are more inclined to sell hundreds of dollars cheaper than the 1st 3weeks of any month.
Invoice price and dest/charge are 2 different prices.
Destination charge is a seperate charge that all consumers have to pay to ship Vehicle from port to dealership that is added onto the bill of sale.\
When you negotiate a price with any dealer... Your offer should be
xxx price with dest charge included to avoid any mis- understanding
Several years ago on another car forum, a member posted a copy of a factory-to-dealer invoice document (GM), comparing it to the standard dealer invoicing for this individual car, (We all have been shown this last invoicing at one time or the other by dealers.) there was a price difference that could only be accounted for by adjusting the actual destination charge lower. I posted my observation. That forum had many dealers who were constantly on it. If I was not correct, I expected many rebuttals to my post. Not one person, dealer or other responded. That told me what I wanted to know.
Four years ago I was negotiating the purchase of a new car (VW) when dealers were really hurting (at the end of the month too). Being very persistent in my negotiating, I said, "And another thing, these destination charges are "soft" too aren't they?" The salesman said nothing. I asked the same question again. The salesman nodded his head "Yes".
Also, how can it cost a dealer who's business is near a manufacturing plant (Corvette only one plant in KY.) the same shipping cost as a dealer who is 2,000 miles away?
I have been buying new vehicles for nearly 40 years. Some of those years i have helped family and friends buy about 30 cars in a year.. I truly believe that the Msrp/ invoice price, along with the destination charge are all made up/ inflated numbers . Pricing Set by the Car manufacturers to help dealerships make money.
I'm sure there is a fee for delivery of these cars,trucks that car companies make us pay. This is another charge we take for granted. Could it be possible that each vehicle del said to be 700 to 900 dollars is really 2 or 3 hundred due to the Volume of Cars and discounts for Car companies... just a thought.
We have websites like Kellys, Edmunds, Aol auto, Consumer Reports, etc. These sites lead us to believe that MSRP, and Invoice pricing are real. So this is what we go buy.
Nobody really knows what the true Invoice cost the dealerships are paying.
.......................................OR
How much MORE below the so called dealer-holdback on every vehicle the dealer makes . There are dealers who will go hundreds if not thousands below that holdback number. Makes you wonder about pricing????????????
By law, destination charges are a fixed flat fee. They CANNOT be different to different locations, otherwise dealers would have an unfair pricing advantage vs. others based on location. This is not the case and has never been the case. Dealers cannot legally be charged different amounts than others for a vehicle, period.
The only thing you may see vary between dealers, depending on brand, is the advertising fee from the manufacturer to dealer, based on their specific ad group. Usually in a metro area, they are the same between all dealers.
I have had a few clients ask bizarre questions regarding destination, and where you may have seen a nod, it may have simply been the sales associate shocked you would ask such a question.
Philosophically, I don't think 1% ($500) matters if you are buying a luxury car.
I don't think one should be buying such a car if he/she cannot afford it.
But I do agree that nobody wants to be ripped off.
Make sure you can afford it, research TrueCar, Penfed car buying service, Carsdirect, etc., get a general idea about the price, set up your limit and drive negotiations as Steve suggested. Sellers are (nowadays) not in a better position than us buyers.
I agree with this comment in principle: "Philosophically, I don't think 1% ($500) matters if you are buying a luxury car"
However, it matters more to you as the buyer than the dealer. With that type of thinking, the dealer can always make an "extra" $500. Of course, I can afford it or else I wouldn't be there. But I want to get the best deal I can. I would feel awful "throwing away" an extra $500. That's about 10 nice dinners out.
you are right, but again if one is in the market for a luxury car and gets $500 worse deal than somebody else it is OK, it is not the end of the world.
If it does matter then that person should not be buying a Lexus or whatever else.
And opposite. If somebody is buying a $5000 car $500 is a big (10%) difference but a $50 difference should be OK.
I'm looking to buy a 2013 RX350 AWD with as little options as possible. At the moment, there are 2 dealers around my area having the 2013 model with the Premium package only, none of them carry any base AWD. MSRP for the Premium package would be 47k, how much should I pay it? I live in Seattle, WA and there are only 3 Lexus Dealers around. People online were discussing how they can get 11% off MSRP, that would make this car around 41.5k before tax. Thanks for your input.
Florida, vehicle has 250 miles, nav. Premium and F sports app. Package, total accessories $8,880, dest. 895, base price $39,660 for a total $49,435 --sales price is $41,999-sounds to good to be true, clean car fax also, vehicle is four months old.
If you get it ~ $2000 under invoice then you made a good deal. Try to negotiate with your local dealer with the quote from GA - and they may match it...
Selling Price: 44,203 Doc Fee: 149 Dealer Inventory Tax: 93 (not mandatory) Total Price: 44,445 (before mandatory state taxes and title fees)
I did not buy any protection packages and I brought in my own financing. They did not know about my trade until the sale and purchase agreement was already drafted. On the trade, I received as much for it (when combined with the immediate tax savings) as I was hoping to get selling it on my own. The experience was stressful and at times almost hostile, but the wife is happy now.
Congrats on the new ride. I think you got a good deal except for the Doc fee and dealer inventory tax. These are just add-ons by the dealer to increase their profits. There is no (regardless of what they say) requirement for these fees.
I successfully "fight" the doc fee about 90% of the time. I've done that on cars I buy for myself and friends and family who ask me to negotiate for them.
In your case, I would would tell the dealer something like "Do you really want to loose this sale over $250?" That money means more to you than the dealer. Its a couple of nights out in fine restaurants.
The price including dealer fees was $2800 below invoice and 12.3% off of MSRP. Judging by past posts--not to shabby I think.
As far as the dealer fees, I think it is important to not lose sight of the big picture when negotiating. Your bank account and the dealer's bank account do not know the difference between vehicle price and dealer fees. For this reason, I ask for the full sale and purchase agreement from each dealer and start negotiating on OTD price. As OTD price goes down, the dealer will choose between reducing the vehicle price or the dealer fees. I have found in the past that fighting on the dealer fees can be avoided if you take this approach and the dealer is likely to be more accomodating on overall price if you let them check their boxes with the fees.
Another piece of buying advice that I do not agree with: calling and getting price quotes without visiting the dealership first. In my experience, most dealerships intentionally build buffers into their price quotes over the phone because they know you are just going to "shop" their number and have a low probability of buying from them. Taking the time to go to the dealership shows you are serious and they will likely take you more seriously during the negotiating process. In addition, I have found that without going to the dealership you will not get an complete sale and purchase agreement with a written OTD number. Without an SPA and OTD number, you really do not know what kind of deal you are getting.
Lastly, as you are negotiating with several dealers, you will know when you are getting close to the final price. Some will simply say, "There is nothing I can do for you, take that offer from the other dealer" OR "That just cannot be a real number, I do not believe you" At that point, you are close to the finish line...
Congrats for walking away. Now call another MA dealer (as I did), negotiate on the phone. Make your offer. Tell them you will come in to buy today only if they agree with your price.
I called 5 dealers in the Boston area till I got my price. It was worth it. I also bought on the 30th of the month. Steve
Comments
Good luck
Steve
Willing to travel to Chicago or 200 mile radius to buy the car. Appreciate any suggestions.
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i buy several cars every few years and i find most dealerships wont remove there doc fee's.
The key to getting a good deal is buying the last days of any month and knowing each dealerships doc fee's before making your offer to buy.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
They offered $4900 discount below MSRP ($49530), which is 9.98% below MSRP. Doc Fee is $590
My final counter-offer was $38000 including $8500 trade in (about $6000 below MSRP - 12.11%) and I am awaiting their response.
Any advice?
2013 RX 350 FWD
Navigation System With Backup Camera Package*
$49,530
MSRP *
Base MSRP
$39,660*
Packages
$8,720
Accessories
$255
Delivery, Processing
& Handling
$895*
VEHICLE INFORMATION
Package Details:
Navigation System with Backup Camera Package
Premium Package with Blind Spot Monitor
Comfort Package
19-inch 7-spoke aluminum alloy wheels
Intuitive Parking Assist
Wood- and leather-trimmed steering wheel and shift knob
Towing Prep Package
Premium Audio System
TOTAL out of dealership cost $46500
MSRP was $49637 the vehicle negotiated price was about $6200 below MSRP (12.5%) and my total cost (all fees/taxes included) $46500.
Smyrna GA
Ask for Heather, internet sales manager.
I went through PenFed car buying service and got 0.74% financing for 48 months.
I am in the searching of Lexus RX 350, I went to Wilkie lexus this Friday and the price they quote was $250 above invoice plus $719 LDA, so it is $1000 above invoice price, how do you think this deal? Any commands or buying experience is appreciated.
I found one that had 26k miles, special internet sticker price of $32990, reg sticker $34990 and they offered me 36k out the door. I went home and offered them 33k, and a few hours later they told me they sold it for 36k. I wasn't too upset though because it had a lot of little nicks and more wear than necessary on the drivers side seat and I really didn't take a liking to the salesman and manager there.
I went to another location, sticker price $37k for a 30k mile car. They offered me 36k as well as a bottom line price. Car was in much better condition with new tires but has 4k more miles and no rear sensors. Seemed like a more thorough and better dealership. did not charge me anything aside from tax, registration fees, although it seems their price is more inflated than other dealers in the tri-state area which in the end, I ended up at 36k.
Anyway, for my specs.
CPO WHITE 2010 30K LESS MILES, AWD NAV. What price should I be aiming for on this 3 year old car? What is a avg quote, what is a good quote? Any responses would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance
I'm looking to buy a car as soon as possible, like Monday god willing, but in max, two weeks time, you think there would be more cars rolling in? It's been really hard to find the white 2010's with nav.
Anyone bought in FL recently?
You should be able to get good deals in Florida since there are many dealers. Call several dealers on the phone and see if they can meet "your" price. Only then, do you walk into the dealership.
Don't ask for a quote. You drive the negotiation process. Tell them your price, but calculate it approx. $2000 below invoice. Keep in mind they have an approx. 3% holdback which is approx 3% of the base MSRP. That means that even if they sell at invoice they make a minimum profit of 3%. They also have other incentives.
Make sure you control the process. Never ask them for a quote.
Steve
Invoice price and dest/charge are 2 different prices.
Destination charge is a seperate charge that all consumers have to pay to ship Vehicle from port to dealership that is added onto the bill of sale.\
When you negotiate a price with any dealer... Your offer should be
xxx price with dest charge included to avoid any mis- understanding
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Several years ago on another car forum, a member posted a copy of a factory-to-dealer invoice document (GM), comparing it to the standard dealer invoicing for this individual car, (We all have been shown this last invoicing at one time or the other by dealers.) there was a price difference that could only be accounted for by adjusting the actual destination charge lower. I posted my observation. That forum had many dealers who were constantly on it. If I was not correct, I expected many rebuttals to my post. Not one person, dealer or other responded. That told me what I wanted to know.
Four years ago I was negotiating the purchase of a new car (VW) when dealers were really hurting (at the end of the month too). Being very persistent in my negotiating, I said, "And another thing, these destination charges are "soft" too aren't they?" The salesman said nothing. I asked the same question again. The salesman nodded his head "Yes".
Also, how can it cost a dealer who's business is near a manufacturing plant (Corvette only one plant in KY.) the same shipping cost as a dealer who is 2,000 miles away?
I'm sure there is a fee for delivery of these cars,trucks that car companies make us pay. This is another charge we take for granted. Could it be possible that each vehicle del said to be 700 to 900 dollars is really 2 or 3 hundred due to the Volume of Cars and discounts for Car companies... just a thought.
We have websites like Kellys, Edmunds, Aol auto, Consumer Reports, etc. These sites lead us to believe that MSRP, and Invoice pricing are real. So this is what we go buy.
Nobody really knows what the true Invoice cost the dealerships are paying.
.......................................OR
How much MORE below the so called dealer-holdback on every vehicle the dealer makes . There are dealers who will go hundreds if not thousands below that holdback number. Makes you wonder about pricing????????????
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Very important piece of info when negotiating a new car deal.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
The only thing you may see vary between dealers, depending on brand, is the advertising fee from the manufacturer to dealer, based on their specific ad group. Usually in a metro area, they are the same between all dealers.
I have had a few clients ask bizarre questions regarding destination, and where you may have seen a nod, it may have simply been the sales associate shocked you would ask such a question.
If you can get it cheaper than 45k good for you.
Tell them you will only pay 44k and see if you get it.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Philosophically, I don't think 1% ($500) matters if you are buying a luxury car.
I don't think one should be buying such a car if he/she cannot afford it.
But I do agree that nobody wants to be ripped off.
Make sure you can afford it, research TrueCar, Penfed car buying service, Carsdirect, etc., get a general idea about the price, set up your limit and drive negotiations as Steve suggested. Sellers are (nowadays) not in a better position than us buyers.
"Philosophically, I don't think 1% ($500) matters if you are buying a luxury car"
However, it matters more to you as the buyer than the dealer. With that type of thinking, the dealer can always make an "extra" $500. Of course, I can afford it or else I wouldn't be there. But I want to get the best deal I can. I would feel awful "throwing away" an extra $500. That's about 10 nice dinners out.
Steve
you are right, but again if one is in the market for a luxury car and gets $500 worse deal than somebody else it is OK, it is not the end of the world.
If it does matter then that person should not be buying a Lexus or whatever else.
And opposite. If somebody is buying a $5000 car $500 is a big (10%) difference but a $50 difference should be OK.
I'm looking to buy a 2013 RX350 AWD with as little options as possible. At the moment, there are 2 dealers around my area having the 2013 model with the Premium package only, none of them carry any base AWD. MSRP for the Premium package would be 47k, how much should I pay it? I live in Seattle, WA and there are only 3 Lexus Dealers around. People online were discussing how they can get 11% off MSRP, that would make this car around 41.5k before tax. Thanks for your input.
Also, it is almost 'impossible' to get without the premium package... unless you're willing to wait.
Good luck & enjoy the process.
I've currently got the following deal on the table in Texas:
2013 RX 350 Nav + Prem Pack w/blind spot + comfort - $49,275 MSRP
Sales price = $45,080 ($4195 disc off MSRP)
Minus $1500 LFS lease rebate = $43.580
Is this a good deal or do I have some more room?
I'm still negotiating on the MF and residual for the lease but hope to get close to the buy rate posted by Carman (MF .00075, Residual 58%).
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Justin
What color is this car, where in Florida is it located? Why is it for sale? Are you the seller or is this a dealer? Interesting??? :sick:
Base RX350 AWD $39,660
Premium Pkg 2,260
Wood Steering/knob 330
Cargo Mat 105
Cargo Net 59
Delivery & Handling 895
MSRP $43,309
My offer, exclusive of sales tax cause I don't live in GA, was total drive-off of $38,997, which is $4312 or 10% off of MSRP.
Truecar says that's a great price. What do you think?
If you get it ~ $2000 under invoice then you made a good deal. Try to negotiate with your local dealer with the quote from GA - and they may match it...
good luck
2013 RX350 AWD Nebula Gray w/Michelins
Base: 41,060
Comfort Pkg: 1,340
19" wheels: 770
Nav System: 2775
Park Assist: 500
Premium Pkg: 2,260
Tow Pkg: 245
Steering Wheel Upgrade: 330
Cross Bars: 259
Accessory Pkg: 255
Subtotal: 49,794
Delivery Fee: 895
MSRP Total: 50,689
Selling Price: 44,203
Doc Fee: 149
Dealer Inventory Tax: 93 (not mandatory)
Total Price: 44,445 (before mandatory state taxes and title fees)
I did not buy any protection packages and I brought in my own financing. They did not know about my trade until the sale and purchase agreement was already drafted. On the trade, I received as much for it (when combined with the immediate tax savings) as I was hoping to get selling it on my own. The experience was stressful and at times almost hostile, but the wife is happy now.
I successfully "fight" the doc fee about 90% of the time. I've done that on cars I buy for myself and friends and family who ask me to negotiate for them.
In your case, I would would tell the dealer something like "Do you really want to loose this sale over $250?" That money means more to you than the dealer. Its a couple of nights out in fine restaurants.
Again, enjoy.
Steve
As far as the dealer fees, I think it is important to not lose sight of the big picture when negotiating. Your bank account and the dealer's bank account do not know the difference between vehicle price and dealer fees. For this reason, I ask for the full sale and purchase agreement from each dealer and start negotiating on OTD price. As OTD price goes down, the dealer will choose between reducing the vehicle price or the dealer fees. I have found in the past that fighting on the dealer fees can be avoided if you take this approach and the dealer is likely to be more accomodating on overall price if you let them check their boxes with the fees.
Another piece of buying advice that I do not agree with: calling and getting price quotes without visiting the dealership first. In my experience, most dealerships intentionally build buffers into their price quotes over the phone because they know you are just going to "shop" their number and have a low probability of buying from them. Taking the time to go to the dealership shows you are serious and they will likely take you more seriously during the negotiating process. In addition, I have found that without going to the dealership you will not get an complete sale and purchase agreement with a written OTD number. Without an SPA and OTD number, you really do not know what kind of deal you are getting.
Lastly, as you are negotiating with several dealers, you will know when you are getting close to the final price. Some will simply say, "There is nothing I can do for you, take that offer from the other dealer" OR "That just cannot be a real number, I do not believe you" At that point, you are close to the finish line...
I went to an MA Lexus dealer today for buying a RX 350 AWD
Comfort Pkg
Premium Audio Pkg
Navigation System
Intuitive parking assist
Premium Pkg
Towing Prep Pkg
Preferred Accessory Pkg
MSRP 49660, I asked for 43500 12% below MSRP. Dealer's last quote was 44900. I walked away from the deal.
Please provide me with your thoughts and inputs. It would be very helpful for me as I'm going to a dealer in CT this week.
I called 5 dealers in the Boston area till I got my price. It was worth it. I also bought on the 30th of the month.
Steve
Frank Z.