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Comments
Hyundai USA has really gone the extra mile and with great expense on the replacement of the map lights. They are to be commended for their efforts.
My dealer must have good (or lucky), he was done in 45 min and it was the 1st one he tried....maybe he didn't read the instructions.... been about 4 weeks now and I will appreciate that fix come the short days of winter ahead!
2007 Hyundai Santa Fe
1)NO OR VERY LITTLE ILLUMINATION IN UNDERGROUND PARKING. (CAN’T SEE ANYTHING)
2)WHEN YOU TURN MAP LIGHT ON BOTH LIGHTS GOES ON. (NOT GOOD WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT)
3)WHEN IDLING AND I TURN ON LEFT MAP LIGHT THEN RIGHT MAP LIGHT THE DOOR CHIMES AND WILL NOT STOP TILL YOU TURN OFF RIGHT MAP SWITCH.
4)WHEN PLAYING WITH SWITCHES, THE DOOR LOCKS OR UNLOCKS FOR NO REASON.
5)WHEN I START CAR, THE OTHER DOORS UNLOCK AUTOMATICALLY.
They will hear about it when you get the inevitable "rating" call from Hyundaiusa checking on your satisfaction I bet
Also wouldn't it be nice if the service Depts actually checked over their work AFTER completing a repair...Sounds like they did not even check the map light operation!
I am lucky...my Hyundai dealer is pretty good about that! I used to own a Mini (from BMW) and had to drive 125 mi each way for service. I had to check everything I could think of before leaving for home...they always screwed something up, even on a simple repair!
dealer ratings & reviews
Gord
Has anyone with this configuration had the map light fixed. And ,if so, did everything work after the installation.
After reading some of the comments I'm not sure if I want it fixed.
Gord
Gord
I posted the original message in the old Santa Fe maintenance and repair title- it really should have been this one.
Problem: I was coming off the freeway 7/28, heard a "Clunk" and the S.F started rolling and pulling to the right when stopping. It rolled when going height variations in the road as well. Brakes were "grabbing" when stopping.
Diagnosis : Tech. said that a bolt on the Anti Roll/Stabiliser arm had "come off" and left the D/side rear wheel floating around in the breeze. The clunk was the R/hand tail pipe hitting the body when going over bumps after the rubber retaing ring came off. The pulling was the EBD and ESC trying to keep everything on track when it was rolling ( at least that worked as designed.)
Solution : replace bolt, which they did, but then it starts to get interesting. I asked him why the bolt would come off, and he said that he checked the alignment AND ALL FOUR WHEELS WERE OUT OF TRUE. He had to rotate all 4 tires and re-align them to specs. He also said he didn't think it had been tightened to the correct torque. (wasn't there a recent post about about a loose front torsion bar, too?)
He went on to mention that they are seeing more and more problems from the Alabama built models,especially the TEMP. SENSORS and they may stop putting them in. There seems to be hardly any problems the S.F.'s built in Korea.
So much for DUH! This fix seems to have cured all problems, excpt my problem with Chapman Hyundai here in Phoenix, who refused to replace my vehicle and tried to make me buy another in a trade in deal. I refused to send good money after bad.
Interestingly, it now seems to drive a little differently than before, and the bumps seem a little louder, but the car is more stable. I would suggest to anyone having stability/quietness/smooth ride issues to have the alignment checked and see if they are to spec.
So far, these are the problems I've had:
1.Thin clearcoat paint ( diagnosed by paint manager)
2.Rear seat Leather underneath was not attached properly, which i fixed)
3.Rear center armrest cupholder assembly warped and wouldn't close - fixed under warranty
4.Temp sensor went out - replaced under warranty
5.Brake light switch went out - replaced under warranty
6.Clip came off of tail pipe - fixed under warranty
7.Anti Roll/stabilizer arm bolt come off - replaced under warranty.
When I asked them to sign a paper that said they had fixed all problems related to the suspension bolt and had checked all anciliiary equipment and components of the ABS,ESC,EBD and Traction control mechanisms, including wheels and tires, they refused on legal grounds !
The alignment problem may go some way to answering some of the driveability issues on this forum coming up relating to smootheness and quietness. Advice: WATCH YOUR TIRE WEAR PATTERNS AND ROTATE REGULARLY
The Climate Control outdoor temp only shows either 140f or 68f. Of course the service manager has never seen this problem before.
The air conditioning did not work at all this morning when my wife was using the car. It just blew out hot air. When I arrived home though it was working correctly again after spending a few hours in the garage.
The map lights do not light when opening or closing the doors. Once again the service manager says this is the way it is supposed to work.
The service manager says that in order to have the auto door locks activated it will cost us additional $$. This is crazy for a safety feature.
We had an SE at home for a few days and the map lights lit correctly, the outdoor temp sensor worked correctly on the dash too. The air never had an issue.
This is our first time buying a Hyundai and so far the experience is not great.
As for the map lights, the bottom line is that early-production Santa Fes were designed so that the front map lights do not come on when the doors are opened. Stupid? You bet. There was a mid-year production change; on Santa Fes built after the change the map lights come on when a door is opened. The good news is that Hyundai has authorized a retrofit to owners of early Santa Fes that, when implemented, will turn on the front map lights when you open a door. They'll do this at no charge to you. Your dealer should know about the retrofit; it's just a matter of them ordering the parts and then scheduling a time to put them in.
As for the auto locks, activating them is a simple programming item for the dealer. I'm betting that if you ask them to do it for you next time your car is in for something (such as to check out your A/C or outside temperature display), they'll do so at no charge.
All in all, these Santa Fes are darned decent SUVs. Hopefully, your experience will become a positive one very soon. Good luck.
A technical service bulletin was issued last fall about the temperature sensor wiring problem (which your symptoms describe exactly and was present on most early 07 Santa Fe's). Your dealer should be well aware of it and if they aren't you should download the TSB, wave it under their noses and say shame on you. The climate control system operation is dependent on a functioning temperature sensor, so your air conditioning problem may go away when you have the simple repair done to your sensor wiring (hopefully).
As the prior poster states, the map lights / door issue was a mid year production revision. Hyundai has gone above and beyond by offering to perform this revision on existing 07 Santa Fe's for free. I'm glad I don't have it because I find the dome light more than sufficient and don't want to display myself and the entire car to everyone walking by when I get in.
Your automatic door lock activation should have been offered to you when you picked up your vehicle and definitely should be a free alteration.
It sounds like the SE you had home was built this year, while the Limited you purchased was built last year. My Limited was built on 8/1/06. It does not even have the wiring harness and extra transmission cooler that all more recent Santa Fe's with Touring package have. The fact is that companies constantly improve their vehicles during the model year. I'm happy to see Hyundai do this. What I would recommend is that you call Hyundai Customer Service and complain about your dealer charging you to activate your door locks and also about their ignorance of the TSB on the temperature sensor.
I had my sensor repaired prior to the TSB coming out thanks to this great forum. I was able to give my service manager detailed instruction on how to fix it. He was amazed.
This also is my first Hyundai and I have been extremely pleased with my experiences so far. I love my Santa Fe!
Dave
2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Touring and Premium packages
Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
Purchased Oct. 2006. 10,800 wonderful miles.
In any case, ours has the third row premium touring package as well.
I figured that the air would need to have a proper working outside air temp sensor for the air conditioning to be working at optimum.
I guess the build date is why this one did not have the XM radio either.
This is a local (to baltimore) dealer that has been in business a long time but has just recently gotten into Hyundai (Feb 07) so perhaps this is part of the problem. But they should still be aware of these issues and correct them.
Do you have the service bulletin # for the temp sensor? I have looked everywhere on here and while I did see it mentioned I was not able to find the bulleting #.
With regards to you not having the upgraded radiator/tranny cooler trailer pre-wiring. It's interesting to note that while ours was built only 10 days later than yours the sticker on the truck (I just looked) says that it has all of these features.
Thank You!
Dave
Where did you find TSB 06-20-003 listed? I've checked the Edmunds and nhtsa web sites and cannot find it. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks...
Dave
I had an old Ford that I did that to once, and it stripped the teeth off of the starter gear head and also knocked out one of the teeth in the starter fly wheel. (If the engine stopped at that particular place the starter head wouldn't engage because of the missing tooth - had to rock it in gear until the engine turned over enough to move the flywheel forward a notch or two ! Aaaah, the joys of college.)
Hope that the new Santa Fe is strong enough to simply require a new starter. Hope they fix it under warranty !
The starter used to have a spiral cut gear wheel on a sprung loaded shaft. When you turned the ignition switch to start, the starter shaft was spun by it's motor, which "threw" the sprung loaded gear head into the toothed gear wheel. The spiral teeth of the starter engaged the regular teeth of the flywheel, thus turning the engine over.
When there was sufficient cranking from being turned over, the engine would start when the gas and air mixture was compressed by the pistons as they moved up and down in their pots, and then a spark from the spark plug ignited the gas/air mixture and started the engine internal combustion cycle .
The engine turning over would then throw back the starter gear as it is sprung loaded, thus getting it out of the way if the engine was running.
If the flywheel is damaged the engine has to dis-assembled to repair/or replace the flywheel. I was hoping that as you have a brand new vehicle, that hopefully only the starter has got jammed or burned out and the head stripped down by the flywheel teeth- in which case it's just a new starter.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. especially that they fix under warrantty.
Back in the 70's I had a Volvo with a broken tooth on the flywheel. Occasionally I would have to crawl under it and move the flywheel over a notch or two with a big screwdriver through an access hole. Then it would crank and if I was lucky, I could drive another couple of weeks before I hit the dead spot. Every once in a blue moon I could rock the car in Park just enough so that the starter would engage.
Fond memories.