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Chevy Silverado Problems
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I was interested to read your posting because I, too, have experienced this problem. I bought a new 2002 Silverado regular cab with V-6 on October 30, 2001. Now have about 6000 miles. Vibration has developed since the purchase and seems to have gotten progressively worse. Vibration can be felt in floorboard and steering wheel. Also causes dashboard to vibrate. Mainly noticeable when around 40 to 45 mph at 1100 rpm---just the kind of driving that occurs in slow freeway traffic.
Took vehicle in to dealer for its initial checkout and service this past week and complained about the vibration. When I picked it up, the service tech advised that he had consulted with GM and was told that this vibration was "indigenous" to the 6 cylinder and resulted from a "harmonic balance (thinkamajig)" Can't recall the exact name. Informed service advisor that it seemed strange since (a) it did not start until after I had put a few thousand miles on the truck, and (b) it had gotten progressively worse. Service advisor said that he would talk to GM some more and get back with me.
I smell a confrontation on the way. Since my truck is new and under warranty, I do not intend to let this problem go unsolved.
Will post more information later and would appreciate input from anyone with similar experience or information.
Your brother in Christ,
Thenes
By the way, I didn't come out ahead on the trade since the one I bought (a 2000 Sierra ext. cab, 5.3L) has turned out to be the worst vehicle I have ever owned. It is even on its second engine at 20K miles. I tried to trade it in on a new F-150, but found out it is nearly worthless.
I notice after I've driven it awhile and shut it off, I hear what sounds like someone taking a ballpeen hammer to metal. Ususally just one time, but it may repeat after a few more minutes. My guess is metal contracting, since it is cooling. My wonderment is if it is the exh. manifolds, pipes, converter -- and if that's "normal"... Just seems a bit loud! Mark
To isolate the problem I would try applying the brake very slight, just enough active the torque converter unlock switch. I bet the vibration will go away even with the engine at 1100 RPMs. If this works it is possible that a software upgrade will fix the problem.
1. BTSI serviced 5 times under warranty before being disabled permanently. This is the device that stops you from shifting out of park without first pressing the brake. This problem caused number 2.
2. Intermittant brake light failure.
3. Rear axle seals once under warranty, once at my cost, $350. Axle seals in 98 and older truck were notoriously bad.
4. U-joints twice on the rear of the rear shaft and once on the front of the rear shaft.
5. Shocks at 100,000k these were very worn out but to be expected.
6. The final straw was leaking headgasket and check engine light whenever in four wheel drive plus the squeaky jiggly interior. Shop quoted $1200 to fix the head gasket.
Overall I loved the truck, but it was enough to make me buy a non-GM product for the first time in my life.
My next vehicle, probably a GM truck.
I bought my Silverado in Oct. of 1999. It is a LS1500 (4800 Series engine) with a trailer package. About 4 months after purchase, I kept hearing a scrapping sound from the back rotors. Thinking it was the pads, I pulled the tires off and inspected them, plenty of meat on the pads. I suspected the emergency brakes only because EM peddle in the cab always went to the floor with no resistance, but, I thought, maybe that's how it was designed. And to answer the question that you are thinking, I did not drive with the emergency brakes on! The idiot light is very pronounced and I always check it before I move, a habit. I finally got tired of this sound and put the truck on jack stands and pulled off the caliper and removed the rotor. To my surprise there is an inner shoe that has it’s own race inside the rotor. The EM brake has a star wheel adjuster that was fine but the shoes were completely worn down to the metal, both sides. They were actually laying in the rotor race without any brackets to support them, thus the scraping sound.
Is this a totally isolated problem?
We own a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 with Z71 package. Today the check 4wd indicator light came on (20,000 miles on the truck). We have yet to engage the 4WD and thought it must be a sensor light, but we then tried to engage it and there is definitely something wrong. We have it at a dealer now -- they are backed up on transmission repairs (not a good sign, I guess) and expect it to take at least a week to even get to in order to repair. Gave us a free rental - so far being treated good. Just wondering if others have experienced this problem.
When you get it back after they fix it you may want to engage it every once in awhile (once a month?) just to keep it fresh and make sure its in working order
-- Don
Ray T.
-- Don
he Vibration issues: I hae not encountered this issue yet. Considering I hit snow bank and am aiting for service(Driving the truck) No bumpers and drivers door and 4th door pushed in, and no vibration. Ad I do go 4 wheeling often no problems with the 4x4 system....
The dealer REPLACED the slip yoke with a nickel coated one. Metal to metal noise is gone but the bump/clunk noise is still there........along with vibrations.
I have filed with the BBB.......I'm really tired of someone telling me this is normal for 4-wheel drive.
It would help alot for my up coming stuff with the BBB. Thanks
Vickie
Vjp24@AOL.com
List if you would PLEASE.....the number of times its been in for service, your state and any anything you think might be helpful.
You can e-mail me also at Vjp24@AOL.com
Thank-you All
Vickie
Walter
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If this is a short I think I'll let someone else deal with it :-). Thx, Tony
P.S. 88 Chevy Silverado 2500 thx again.
If your lights are off, why are the dash lights on? If on the other hand, you have the parking lights on then it sounds like a bad ground in one of the TS/Park light sockets.
Have somebody sit in your truck and run the turn signal with the lights off, with the park lights on, with the brake lights on and watch the lights. You should be able to see which socket is giving you trouble. Then take it apart and clean up the ground connection, put a good coat of grease on it and put it back together and test.
Good luck,
Mike L
The Heater/AC has a digital display.
so when the lights are off the clock/radio and Heater/AC displays are on. But I will clean those sockets up and see how it works. THANKS! Tony
Ben
This was my experience with my 88 C1500 Ext. Cab till I got my 2000 Silverado 2500.
Ray T
This is my first time at the website, I was referred here since I'm looking for help. The dashboard in our 1998 Silverado caught on fire last weekend. It has ~60,000 miles (mostly highway). We have always had it serviced professionally, we have never altered anything in the truck and we don't smoke. The truck had been sitting for about 30 minutes, shut off. My husband got in, started it, and started to back up when the lights started flashing and he heard a popping sound then smoke started rolling out of the dash. GM said that since there are 60,000 miles on it, and they don't know the history of the truck, they will not do anything about it. I asked if they were at least going to look at it to see what caused it and they said NO! I have posted this with NHTSA, BBB, and Consumer Protection. Everyone tells me that since it is out of the original warranty and the extended warranty we purchased at the tune of $1500 won't cover fire - we are SOL. Everyone seems to be missing the point. It is a safety problem and I think GM should be responsible. This isn't normal wear and tear. I guess GM is saying that once you have driven your GM over 36000 miles - don't be surprised if it catches on fire!
We own several Chevrolet products, we recently purchased a 2001 S-10. I can't believe that GM won't stand behind their product. Any advice - we can't even start the truck at this point.
I've worked on rewiring vehicles that have had this happen. Unfortunate as it is, the only recourse that the owners had was to pay to have it repaired. Ever look into filing an insurance claim?
On the other hand, a boat dealer and Mercury Marine once replaced a lower unit on a Mercury outboard that was a few months out of warranty. Guess what - I bought my next boat/motor/trailer from them. Reward the good guys.
Anyone out there experience this problem with their truck?
I have 5500 miles on her now and the problem is worse than ever! Its coming from the drivers side of the engine and sounds almost like a metal rattle or tapping sound. It goes away when I accelerate but comes back as I ease off the gas or am at idle.
I have tried different gas, higher octane, oil changes, all to no avail.
I love the truck, but the noise makes me sick. Has anyone else heard of this problem or know any remedies? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks