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What a heroic effort !!!
On the BCM problem, I have read somewhere in this forum that one of the culprits is the BCM vehicle connector itself of being intermitten. There was a TSB on this subject that stated some connector terminals are not making stable connection to the BCM module. That may explain the reason for your new BCM not working just like the old one since they are not the real problem.
Ways to check for this problem:
1. Visually inspect every wire in the BCM vehicle harness to see any one of them work its way out of the connector housing. You may want to gently pull each wire to see that problem. This may be caused by:
a. Lousy terminal blocking mechanism design of the connector housing
b. The cable is not long enough and causing natural pull on the wire
c.Manufacturing defect: wire not inserted fully into the connector?
d. The connection terminal (metal piece that is crimped onto each wire) is not crimped properly
2. Electrical continuity check (aka. Ohmmic check, resistance check) between every wire on the vehicle connector and the circuit board connection of the BCM module. For this step, you need to open the BCM module so that you could probe the main mating connector on the BCM's circuit board. Note that a lot of Automotive circuit board use "Conformal coating" (a coating that protect circuitries moisture built-up problem) so you may have to probe past that coating layer to get to the connector pins. This will tell of there is intermitten problem. While doing that , you may just want to wiggle the vehicle cable a bit to see if certain wire(s) has the problem. For this step, you do need to connect the BCM module with the vehicle harness and ignition off. Be careful with ESD (Electrical Static Discharge) since that will zap and damage electrical circuits. So to avoid that, you use Ground trap between your body and the metal part of the car. If that that is not practical, then at least touch a metal part inside the vehicle (while holding a key) first before touching the BCM module. In the winter, ESD occurs more common due to dry air
Good luck
jt
My headlight problem ended up being the relay...$8 versus $200+ for the BCM or $400+ for the turn, dimmer, switch assembly.
Good Luck
On the oil change light; does he know for certain that the oil change light was reset when the oil was changed? The light comes on based on time/usage since the last time it was reset, but it doesn't actually examine the oil to know if it's dirty or not. You can reset the oil change light via the radio controls; I'd try that first and then if it comes back in within a week or so then you've probably got a problem.
Basically turn the key to the ACC or ON position, but don't turn on the radio. Push the DISP button for 5 seconds, until SETTINGS is displayed on the radio. Press the SEEK button up or down until you come to OIL LIFE. Press the PREV or NEXT button until RESET is displayed, then press the DISP button. You should hear a chime and DONE will appear on the radio. When you're done just keep scrolling with the SEEK button until you come to EXIT, and then hit DISP.
We are going to be trying to see his Impala as well in the spring any suggestions?
FWIW when mine went out I couldn't leave it down, because I was going to a conference the next day and would have to leave the car parked overnight downtown. I went to Radio Shack and bought a set of small jumper wires (with alligator clamps on each end); I removed the switch from the door, unplugged the wires, and then jumped the wires for the driver's door to the adjacent switch for the passenger window, and was able to use that switch to roll the window up. Then I left the switch out of the door, so I wouldn't absentmindedly open it again by mistake (the switch would open fine, but not close).
I have been struggling with a problem with my 2003 Impala Sport over the last 6 weeks, and there seems to be no solution.
It started when my impala lost the ability to spray washer fluid, it just stopped, and the whole arm unit with the wiper controls that sticks out of the steering column was the culprit, so that whole unit was replaced. $800.00 later, I could spray washer fluid. I went to pick my car up from the dealer, and the battery was completely dead. After a boost I was on my way home. This was Friday, and on Monday my battery was dead again.
I took the car back to the dealer, and they put a new battery in, and worked fine for almost a week, and then it died. They replaced it with another one, and another week later, died again. I made an 'x' on the batteries, so knew that they were replacing them for sure.
I decided to take the car to another dealer, and they had it for days, saying in the end that no problems were found with anything like alternator, starter, trickle power draw, and the battery itself. Eventually, when the battery had died again, they declared the faulty battery was the cause. cry. So they put another battery in, and I went home (40 minutes north) and 2 days later (yesterday) it was dead again.
Initially, the dealer assumed it was my satellite receiver, but that is never plugged in overnight, only when I am in the car. That was ruled out after leaving it at the dealer for the weekend after they put their new battery in (all batteries have been delco), and was dead in their lot over the weekend.
SO, here is my conclusion, which I mentioned to the dealer:
The replacement of the Wiper control arm is the cause of the subsequent power problems. Somehow. Not sure how, but could it be faulty? Or put in wrong? A short maybe? Could it be something else completely?
Although the dealer agreed this could be an issue, they just keep replacing batteries, and I am getting very frustrated.
If anyone here has any thoughts, would appreciate it. I am planning on just going to another dealer, and asking them to go right to where I believe the problem is, and paying them to check the part and reinstall it. I really don't know what to do, but I commute 40 mins to work, and having a constantly dead car is causing me and my wife a lot of headaches.
Thanks,
Russell
1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Attach an ammeter(this measures amperage) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode. i.e. when you make the contact with the test light the cars computer systems "wake up" after a bit of time they will go to "sleep".
3. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
4. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last.
5. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
6. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
7. Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.
EDITERS NOTE: The original author listed this repair using a 12v test light. As an ASE certified mechanic, the best place for your test light is the trash. A test light doesnt measure voltage; it shows if enough voltage is present to light the lamp.
1. An ammeter meaures current (in amps), and that is what you are fighting against if you have a parasitic drain problem.
2. Harbor freight sells a $3 digital multimeter (dmm) that has an amps setting. I use a Fluke, but it's whatever your trying to spend your dollars on.
1. Security warning light lights up( head lights flash without warning)
2. Power locks do not work
3. Low tire air warning light
3 Check engine soon light does not shoot off
4 head light go from low beam to high beam by themselves
5 ABS light does not go off ( break pedal gets stuck)
Please help me guys I'm about to drive it into a canal....
No JUST KIDDING....
Ay, ay, ay--what a mess we have here....one would have to assume this is computer-related because I can't imagine all these different circuits actually short-circuiting by being adjacent to each other.
Can you have the alarm system totally disconnected and see what happens?
I really don't know where to start with this one....ay, ay, ay.... :sick:
sorry for the added troubles
besides that the car is in good shape..
Thanks
Jamie
Thanks,
Scott
Just got new batter and resistor replaced for blower motor...these problems occurred previous this work was done and still occur now.
I can be driving down the road and all of a sudden my left blinker doesn't work when turned on ...the right one is OK...this fixes itself after a number of minutes...
When starting the car..the driver information center takes a longer than usual time to light up...but not always...while driving I have had the blower motor turn off for a few minutes and then start back up as if nothing wrong...
so it seems from past posts that this is either a BCM issue or an ignition switch issue...any educated quesses on which one it is? What are the approx. costs for a BCM and the ignition switch? I am in Canada eh...
Thanks in advance...so far I haven't been stranded but I can't wait for that to happen...
Scott
my new problem is in my driver door latch. the radio and dome like do not go on/off when i open the door, as with the retained accessory power features.
good luck!
It has resolved all my weird problems.....just check above for what they were...
My thoughts are for these weird issues is that it is one of 2 things..either the BCM or the ignition switch....in my case it was the ignition switch....which by the way DOES NOT REQUIRE any re-programming....You might be able to replace yourself and save 1 hour labour charge....
Scott
change the arm and it does the same thing...before we use to change a part<
i don`t remember the name but it was changing that part for heavy duty and that
would do the job...but now with everything electrical i don`t kwnow....would you
know the name of that part or what do you think it would be....
Chevy Impala Turn Signal Switch Replacement:
Click here
The hazard switch is GM part #10359031:
GMParts
YOU WERE RIGHT IT WAS THE HAZARD SWITCH THAT WAS THE PROBLEM
THANKS AGAIN.....REAL SMART...
POUCCHIE
working. Power gets to the switch and to the relay.
Plug at window looks OK. Any ideas?
Tonight coming home from work I noticed when I pressed my breaks and the ABS would kick in (been snowing all day) the electrical system just seems to dim. I first noticed it when the radio volumn would go very low and then slowly build back up to where it was set at. Then I started noticing panel lights dimming. At one point it was like the car shut off (electrically) and kicked back in. Everything reset just like when you start the car - however the engine didn't 'stall' or anything that I noticed.
I'm open to ideas. I've been having problems with my ABS as it is (intermittant light) and my thermostat (stuck open). Saving up to repair those has been tough with the holidays - i am not looking forward to having something else to get repaired. :sick: