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I'm also considering a Sequoia but would prefer the amenities of the LC if it will handle the towing.
Thanks
Drove a very nice '95 (my price range). I had never noticed how much room the third seats take up when folded. Do they come out easily? The seller had never taken them out, or tried. It's important in that we might come back from camping requiring lots of geat with third seat out one day, and need to use it for a soccer bus the next.
thanks in advance
Regards,
Sean.
Respectfully,
Sean.
Would a fold-down design inhibit the landcruiser's abilities or is it physically impossible to do that with these trucks without a major redesign and making the trucks much bigger?
It's interesting, when searching on the net many people say that River Rock Green is grey and that Champagne Pearl is silver. Thanks for your inputs!
On a different note I had a question. Has anybody experienced with a different tire set-up than what is stock. I just saw a LC with BF Goodrich 285/75 16 K/O's and it looked like a tight fit. Has anybody tried lifting their LC either by aftermarket springs and/or torsion bars? Any information would be much appreciated.
I need Help.... I can't find any crash test data for pre 1998 Land Cruisers. It's as if no tests have been done.... Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
Joeblow - funny story about the Subaru, actually. The Reader's Digest version is that I'd ordered a Sequoia to replace the Montero when my mother asked me to find her a clean used car. I quickly decided on a Subaru AWD wagon for her. Found nothing but high mile vehicles for months. Then on the same DAY I found 2 creampuffs - one green with 23k miles, one quartz/rose with 48k. Gave Mom her choice and bought it for her. When I drove it home, I fell in love with it and spontaneously cancelled the Sequoia and bought the green one for myself. So now I'm a LandCruiser and Subaru owner.
Regards,
Sean
The tires ride much better on and off road than the michelins, to me and the lc looks much better with tires that fill up the wheel wells. I am not suggesting 20's, I am just saying Toyota puts small tires on it's SUV's. The Sequioa looks so funny with it's little tires and huge body.
And yes I off road quite a bit.
Andrew
PS - I do not tow anything, the bfg's are 32.9 inches tall and the stock michelins are like 31.7 inches. Just something to consider when towing. The bfg's are also about an inch wider than stock.
The 100 series was crash tested in Australia and would have rated excellent except for a fuel leak. The fuel leak was from an auxillary gas tank though that is not available in the US. Also, they crashed one with an I6 (IIRC). At some time the actual (real world statistics, not extrapolated crash test data) injury rate will be availabl at the IIHS sites but I cannot remember is they publish that data of just make it available to actuaries.
HiC
fj100 - I agree that a bigger tire would give the LC a much nicer look, that is my dilemma. Actually, I do have a set of OME springs sitting in my garage which I purchased when I put on the OME shocks. The reason I did not put them on was because I was concerned that there was not enough adjustment in the front torsion bars, as I was told by a mechanic from 4x4 warehouse. I haven't been able to locate a company that carries torsion bars for my 99 LC but when I do my plan is to lift it and put the beefier tires.
seanslx450 - question - Did you adjust the front end or leave it at the stock setting with the aftermarket springs? I believe the shocks that I have in the rear are what they called the 'soft' as opposed to a 'firm'. I'm assuming that is to help keep some sort of softness with the stiffer springs.
tsoar - I am pulling around 3000-3200 rpm at those speeds in 3rd gear. The LC temperature gauge has not budged even when going over some decent sized grades ( 10.5 hour trip to Lake Tahoe from the L.A. area and back). Its has just been in the near past that I have experimented with how strong the overdrive gear felt while towing on a level surface, it actually felt strong.
One last note. For all of you who went with the bigger tires, did you stick with the original wheels or replace them with aftermarket? I have chrome factory wheels and am wondering how beefier tires would look on them. I do remember seeing a LC that had JAOS wheels with the bigger tires, not sure if I want to pay that type of money though for their wheels.
http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=5262&sid=176&n=156
Regards, Sean.
Looking to replace it with a reasonably priced 80 series LC, most probably 100'-200'mls and wonder if there are any known problems with the newer 4.5 liter engine in '93-97 models. I believe the old 4.0 liter is running forever ... but at least for the Turbodiesel versions popular in overseas markets it's fair to say that older versions were trouble free with 250'+mls while newer versions turned out to require certain attention.
Besides engine choice, is there anything I should specifically look for when buying an 80 series ???
Thanks.
There are a few bj60s, hj60s, and bj70s running around the countryside if you're really wanting a diesel rig. Gray market imports from our friends up north.
The body is identical to the upcoming 2003 Lexus GX470 equipped in the US with a V8. Watch out for the 2003 4Runner, it may be the same car and there a new 4.0 liter V6 would make sense. The current 4Runner was almost exclusively sold in North America, while in other markets the first generation Prado / 90 series was offered.
When you get one, do a search for "80s Cool" and find out more about your truck.
IdahoDoug
took the rig in today because of occasional 2-3 second squeal when AC compressor engages.
Service desk quoted me $1500 for compressor, clutch assy & filter/ drier.
I asked to see the tech that conducted the diagnosis, some 18 yr old kid arrived.
I asked him why compressor and not just clutch- "the clutch is bad and it wobbled which wore out the rod and bearings in the compressor... sometimes when we remove the clip that holds on the clutch assy it breaks in two....". Thinking that I was being fed a cookie cutter answer (or a line) I asked about the brown dust (keep in mind that this dust is limited to the immediate area of the clutch assy and resembles break or clutch dust) his answer was that it was road grime, needless to say I had heard enough from Jr. In fact once the Service Desk guy heard the lines I was being fed, he (Mr Desk) recommended that I leave my rig there until tomorrow so the normal mech (absent today) could check it out.
Here is my thought and subsequent ????'s
Replace the clutch and hope the compressor is good.
????'s
1. Will the system need to be evacuated?
2. Are there special tools or tricks I need to know?
3. If I get in there what are indicators that the compressor needs to be replaced?
Thanks in advance
Ted
Saw another FZJ80 in the same dealer for a $10k new motor- ouch! To think that I thought that syn oil was expensive.
Wishnhigh1- After further thought I agree with you that when it comes to the AC let the pro's do it. To clarify my position with "the kid" I did not question his ability, just his thought process and articulation in the diagnosis.
As for those like myself who are here as LC enthusiasts, my suspicions were confirmed. In cases where the clutch assy is faulty for extended periods of time it will damage the compressor but mine will probably be OK (of course there is no telling). Each case is different, but the guaranteed fix or school solution is to replace the whole package.
I don't think tedplano intended to be offensive though it's conceivable one might misinterpret his intent. Let's not jump to hasty conclusions about the intent of others as this medium is less than perfect at conveying ideas and information.
I recommend a little more tolerance.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
The dust near the magnetic clutch is probably dirt that collected in the R134a fluid that leaked out of the compressor.
Here is what I have found thus far for the complete job- install compressor & dryer, evac, flush and fill
Toyota $1500 part warr 1yr/ labor warr 1yr
Pep Boys $888 part 1yr/ labor 90 day
Napa $932 part 3yr/ labor 6 month
I'm leaning towards Napa but not sure if 6 months coverage on labor is long enough to know if the job was done right. IMHO if the freon is going to leak out it would do so prior to this time, what say you?
I am a bit concerned as I have seen examples of AC systems never truely recovering from initial failure but don't have any historical data on the FZJ.
Hudson, your description sounds just like the typical belt squeal of an A/C system starting up. The dirt is accumulated around my pulley as well, so perhaps this is normal. Try shooting some belt dressing on your A/C belt and about a minute later starting up the A/C. It may not be this simple, obviously, but I'd hate to see anyone drop money for no reason.
IdahoDoug
First the auto locks that we had installed with a remote start 4 years ago have started to wortk erratically. Sometimes it works with the fob, and sometimes it won't. The remote start always works. When the locks stop working, you can still hear a click just as when they are working. They usually start working after a couple of days. We replaced the battery in the fob.
Second problem is about 3 weeks ago, the car started idling a little rougher than usual. Also on 3 different occasions it revved high before it shifted from first to second gear. This seemed to happen after the car was driven for about 10 mins. The rest of the time it shifts fine. We are wondering if this is some kind of electronic problem, or a computer problem. Hope it's not a transmission problem, but we have gotten 146K miles out of it, and we love the car.
The dealer has had it for 2 days, and they cannot duplicate the problem.
If anyone has any advice, please share.
Thanks,
good luck with your search.
ace
On the engine "flaring" between 1 and 2, this is again a simple issue. The item above may also impact this a bit. However, there's a cable to the transmission from the throttle which tells the tranny clutches how fast to operate. The cable stretches over time and the tranny "thinks" you're at a low throttle when you're actually at mid throttle and lets the automatic tranny clutches slip more than is appropriate. The cure is simple. Where this cable's housing mounts to the throttle assembly, it is secured with a threaded rod and a pair of lock nuts. Simply loosen the lock nuts and your goal is to move the cable housing AWAY from the sheetmetal plate it mounts through about the thickness of one of the lock bolts. Then resecure it. I'd also have the tranny fluid changed out as slippage can cause a little extra debris in the fluid that's now in there. This is always a good idea anyhow as the hugely overbuilt tranny you have is a bit clunky but durable, however fixing it is astronomically expensive. $50 worth of tranny service is money well spent.
If it's never been done, cleaning the throttle body/throttle valve will also dramatically smooth out many tranny foibles on this truck. It can be done with a toothbrush and Fuel Injection intake cleaner (Carb Cleaner is too harsh) on the truck or the dealer will be glad to take your $300 to remove and clean it.
IdahoDoug