how big of a job is it to remove the transmission and is there any danger of really screwing things up if one doesnt really know what they are doing?
i'm thinking of going to a local transmission shop to have them do it and was wondering if they would have problems if they never worked on a landcruiser before.
It's not a technically demanding task - more one of some serious heavy lifting (that tranny's one of the heaviest), and a question of how fastidious they'll be about installing the new gaskets. Like anything, it can be screwed up, including re-mating the tranny with the engine's drive shaft, not getting the wiring reconnected and secured properly, and using non-Toyota parts.
Knowledge of the 80 series is very helpful, and I'd suggest you look for this above all as it's a mark of a capable mechanic to have worked on these. What city are you in - I'll ask in the club for you?
Maybe the new 5 speed transmisson as far as higher curb weight. No idea why the payload would go down unless it is related to the curb weight or 17 or 18 inch gangster wheels.
Personal Opinion - I offroad my 100 series about 4 times a month
I lock the CD everytime I go offroad to gurantee that 50% of the power goes to both axles. Not dirt roads but on powerline trails and such. The CD automatically locks in low range, however I am going to change that on my cruiser so I can use Low Range in tight spots. Also, I lock the CD when I hit the beach at Hatteras (for surf fishing) and lower my tire pressure to 18 psi.
Also, I run 285/75 R 16 BFG ATs for more traction.
LL. Sorry to not have checked back on the board sooner. I really think you can beat the 59K price. Can you wait a bit more as we get deeper into the model year? See my earlier post. I got my 2002 with a 59K sticker for 50k in July. LC production is rather low compared to other Toys (duh) and I think checking other states is a great idea. What about Atlanta or New Orleans? Just some thoughts, but I think if you can wait you'll be able to save some big $$
I don't believe the center differential locks when going to low range. The manual says differently and the light on dash doesn't indicate that it is locked. Nor does the "VSC Off" light go on. All these things happen when you manually lock it.
The center will not automatically lock when in the low range.
Payload is a function of curb weight. The suspension, frame and drive line have a total gross weight rating. The heavier the vehicle, the lower the payload capacity.
What is the expected life of a set of stock shock absorbers on the current fj100 models. Has anyone replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein shocks; if so, what improvements, if any, in handling and ride.
Prior to owning my TLC I owned a '96 Range Rover 4.6HSI. After wallowing down the road, I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein and the ride and handling were greatly enhanced.
I have a 2000 LC with 20000 miles. Got a letter from Automotive Product Consultants, Inc. about warranty extension. They quoted me $1637.00 for 5 yrs. and 60000 miles coverage. Anyone using this company? I don't feel the need to get additional coverage. I use mobil 1 oil and change every 5000 miles. Any comments?
That quote is not very good. If you want an extended warranty, you can get it from a good dealer alot cheaper and it will be a Toyota Platinum warranty. You can get a 7yr,100k warranty w/no deductible anywhere from $1200 - $1500. I would not use a third party personally.
Just turned 51,000 on my '01 TLC (Yes I am enjoying it, thank you!) My rear pads had to be replaced - all used up. However, the front pads have virtually no wear. Normally a vehicle with 4-wheel disc brakes uses up the fronts first. Is this normal for the TLC? The dealer service people say everything is set to spec. I don't tow; do modest off-roading, and a lot of highway driving. Feedback please!
I had the same thing happen on my 00 LC at around 48K miles. Another colleague of mine who drives a 00 LC also experienced this phenomenon. Apparently, this is normal for the LC. One reason why this is happening might be due to the fact that the rear pads are fairly small for a 5000+ pound rig. Smaller surface area will definitely translate into faster wear.
The TLC shocks are made by Tokico, a well-established shock company. I believe the TLC have heavy-duty shocks...which may mean that they are high-pressured monotubes (good). Even if they are twin-tube designs, Tokico makes quality shocks. They last a long time! I would not even worry about it until nearing 75-100,000 miles. With the TLC, don't change shocks...the stock ride is excellent.
If you want a genuine Toyota warranty, you must get it before the 3/36 expires and you must get it from a dealer. The guys who run that web site are a dealer but there are other dealers who can offer you similar pricing. You may want to e-mail other dealers who are known to work with customers that way to check the price.
Does anyone have experience comparing the difference in ride quality between the LC and the LX470 - does the air suspension on the LX470 make a detectable difference? Also, is the LX470 any quieter than the LC?
The rubber mats that Toyota sells are great in the front. The rear are two piece and don't cover near as well as the standard one piece carpeted mat.
I tried the Weathertech classic premium semi-custom rubber mats you cut yourself for the rear, and they didn't work well at all. What does work great for the cargo area is the WeatherTech liner. I think you can find that at mats.com.
Does anyone know without me actually pulling one off and trying it on, if the wheels off a '93 LC will fit my 98 Tacoma 4x4? There is one in the junkyard here. I am pretty sure they are 16", but will the bolt pattern work?
I've read on the board that its not recommended to turn the rotors/drums every time you change pads or shoes. would someone please tell me what is the recommended interval for turning? is it every other change?
last time i changed pads i asked them to just deglaze the rotors. can i do that again?
It's a 6 bolt pattern that's a Toyota 6 bolt standard, so that will fit. But the LC axle hole is larger than that on your Tacoma, so the wheel will not be hub centric as it is designed. Hub centric simply means the hub/axle is supposed to fill that hole so precisely that it's touching and bearing most of the vehicle's weight. As a result, your Taco's weight will be born by the studs alone, which it is not designed to do. Your Taco wheels are also hubcentric to keep the weight on the hub/axles. Also, the wheel offset on these 8" wheels is likely different from your Taco wheels.
Having said that, I am interested in the wheels myself and was wondering what they are asking for them. My email is dmiller@fliptag.com. Thanks in advance!
On the rotors, I only turn them if they're warped (you'll feel pulsing) which is often going to cause them to warp again sooner since you're removing metal. Personally, I just put new pads on myself each time they wear out and don't pull the rotors.
Thanks for the in depth info on the wheels. I will stop by and find out the pertinent info for you. The vehicle looks like a rollover, but the two wheels I can see from the road look round. I'll try to pass the info. If you're actually in Idaho, the shipping may be hell from TN.
I have a 99 LC. There is a slight rattle coming from what sounds like the lower dash; it's faint and can only be heard with the radio off/sunroof shut, and occurs at low speeds or when accelerating. I've traced it to (what I believe) is the 4WD hi/lo shifter. When the rattle occurs (typically at lower rpms) and I'm coasting, I can make it disappear by slightly nudging the shifter up (towards hi). It's not affecting performance but is generally annoying. Two questions: Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a fix? Thanks in advance...
I also only turn the rotors if they are warped. Every time you turn the rotor, you are removing a thin layer of surface material and thus reducing the life of the rotor. If this causes a slight increase in brake pad wear, I haven't noticed. Besides, pads are cheaper than rotors.
As for brake pads wearing out quicker on the rear of '00-up TLC, I wonder if the VSC is engaging the rear pads on the inside wheel when you make sharp turns, hence eventually wearing the rear pads out first. My guess is that VSC has reduced the life expectancy of brake pads on the newer TLC, since the brakes are now performing the work previously done by locking/limited slip differentials. In the long run, this may actually increase the differential life at the expense of brake life. Since brakes are easier/cheaper to service, this may not be a bad trade-off.
I need to purchase tires for my LX450. Should I stick with the Michelin LTX ? My driving is not off road. I've heard whatever tire used it must have good sidewall strength for safe handling. I would appreciate hearing any other recommendations.
The stock 275/70 is a fairly unusual size and if you want to keep stock sizes, the choices are:
Bridgestone Desert Dualer - a horrible tire that was recently redesigned into a good tire. Michelin LTX M+S - a very good tire that's been around for eons and is highly rated. Michelin Cross Terrain - an excellent tire that will likely replace the LTX and is better in nearly every measure but a tad more expensive. I'd choose this one, personally.
Sidewall strength is not the strong suit of the LTX, and the Cruiser requires no particular tire characteristics in this area. In fact, some feel the LTX sidewalls are rather weak. They and the new Cross Terrain do preserve the Cruiser's ride qualities, however - especially the Cross Terrain.
Since you are full time 4WD, be sure to replace them all at once, and of course rotate and monitor pressures, blah blah.
Thanks once again. I've heard of the cross terrain and am starting to see it more and more on vehicles.Probably will go that route. Have you had experience with www.Tire Rack.com ?
My dash indicator light for drive (D) is out. P,R,2 and 1 all light up okay. Do you know where the problem lies. Is it a dash bulb ? Never experienced this before.
The bulb is out. Common as it's illuminated the most. Remove the plastic covering on the steering column and remove enough of the dash to pull out the speedo cluster. Pull off the PCB in the back and replace the bulb. Not necessary to remove the steering wheel, but it makes the job easier.
I own a 2001 Landcruiser and I do some of my own service such as rotating the tires. If I use the jack supplied in the vehicle and the jack point described in the owners manual, I cannot raise the front tires off the ground because the jack limits are reach before the wheel is fully articulated. To raise the vehicle higher, I have to put 2 2x4's under the jack; ok for when I am in my garage, but not the kind of luggage I usually carry with me. Wondering if there is a better jack point or if anyone else has run into that situation. I asked the local dealer and they had no other input on this. Seems to me Toyota could provide a jack that raises the tires off the ground. Thanks.
More than likely the jack has more extension left in it. Anyway, buy a floor jack to do your car work, especially tire rotation. Costco has them for a reasonable price.
I've heard only good things about TireRack and on a trip this summer I actually visited their HQ and picked up a set of winter tires for my Cruiser. With their low prices and no shipping I saved big. However, I've never had them ship tires as I find that I can come withing a few bucks locally by being aggressive and local purchase means free rotations for life, road hazards, etc. I'm willing to spend a bit more for local purchase and I suggest you price it out fully before going with tire rack. By the time you add shipping for bulky tires, and then pay to have them mounted, you're not always saving much.
As for jacking, I never jack up the body. It's much faster and easier to put the jack under the front suspension member and lift only 2 inches to remove a tire on the road. On the rear you can use the axle. This is far more stable and safe than leaning the entire body just to lift a tire. To use this jack at home to rotate, you'll need a jack stand or the like to hold that corner up while you put the jack on another corner to get a tire for rotating. But on the road, you'll not need this unless you're in the habit of rotating your tires while on the road. ;-) Don't forget to use anti-sieze on the threads and a torque wrench so you don't warp your rotors from over tightening the lugnuts.
My 99 tlc's odometer intermittently malfunctions. It counts the miles accurately, but the display for one of the digits doesn't always read properly. For instance, all of the lines in the number 3 might not all print out. Anyone have any fixes besides replacing the whole instrument cluster?
My friend in Seattle is going to do his own oil change on his '02 LX470. However, he can't seem to locate the oil filter. Where is it located, and can it be accessed from above the engine compartment? TIA!
On the '02 Landcruiser, there is a piece of sheetmetal plate about 6" round toward the front left(driver's side) undercarriage. There is a bolt on that you remove to remove that plate and there it is.
I saw this at an oil change place. Look forward to doing it myself now.
The 02 TLC DVD player is located in the front. Apparently the 03 has an optional second row monitor, does any body know if the second monitor in the second row can be installed in the 02 TLC? Thank you
Comments
curb payload Total
2002 cruiser 5115 1745 6860
2003 cruiser 5390 1470 6860
how big of a job is it to remove the transmission and is there any danger of really screwing things up if one doesnt really know what they are doing?
i'm thinking of going to a local transmission shop to have them do it and was wondering if they would have problems if they never worked on a landcruiser before.
Knowledge of the 80 series is very helpful, and I'd suggest you look for this above all as it's a mark of a capable mechanic to have worked on these. What city are you in - I'll ask in the club for you?
IdahoDoug
fj100
Personal Opinion - I offroad my 100 series about 4 times a month
I lock the CD everytime I go offroad to gurantee that 50% of the power goes to both axles. Not dirt roads but on powerline trails and such. The CD automatically locks in low range, however I am going to change that on my cruiser so I can use Low Range in tight spots. Also, I lock the CD when I hit the beach at Hatteras (for surf fishing) and lower my tire pressure to 18 psi.
Also, I run 285/75 R 16 BFG ATs for more traction.
Regards,
fj100
Also, Do you have any problems with them tires fitting on your cruiser? Do you have a lift? I thought they might rub.
No problems at all with the tire. Does not even hit at full articulation. No lift as of yet, maybe for Christmas.
fj100
i'm in burbank cali
I totally blew that one. Any LC before '99 without Traction Control. Mine is a '99. I am not a fan of traction control.
Also, you may never need to lock the cd on a 2000 or newer lc but I would in the conditions I described above.
peace and sorry about the misinfo.
fj100
Payload is a function of curb weight. The suspension, frame and drive line have a total gross weight rating. The heavier the vehicle, the lower the payload capacity.
1. Go up incline at 45 DEGREES (100% grade!)
2. Go sideway at 45 DEGREES (100% grade)
3. Tread water at 700 mm (27.6 inches!)
The Mercedes G500 can:
1. Go up incline at 38.7 degrees (80% grade)
2. Go sideway at 28.4 degrees (54% grade)
Hummer H1 AND H2 can:
1. Go up incline at 30.9 degrees (60% grade)
2. Go sideway at 21.8 degrees (40% grade)
3. H1: Tread water at 30 inches
H2: Tread water at 20 inches
Pretty impressive for the TLC/LX470!!
Information on the TLC from:
http://motorshow.toyota-europe.com/showroom/land_cruiser_100/kce_2.html
I have a 2001 cruiser and am interested in reading about the competition.
Don't do it, Intermed!! Kjack just wants your share of the Krispy Kremes when they arrive!
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Prior to owning my TLC I owned a '96 Range Rover 4.6HSI. After wallowing down the road, I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein and the ride and handling were greatly enhanced.
HiC
I tried the Weathertech classic premium semi-custom rubber mats you cut yourself for the rear, and they didn't work well at all. What does work great for the cargo area is the WeatherTech liner. I think you can find that at mats.com.
last time i changed pads i asked them to just deglaze the rotors. can i do that again?
as usual, thanks in advance.
It's a 6 bolt pattern that's a Toyota 6 bolt standard, so that will fit. But the LC axle hole is larger than that on your Tacoma, so the wheel will not be hub centric as it is designed. Hub centric simply means the hub/axle is supposed to fill that hole so precisely that it's touching and bearing most of the vehicle's weight. As a result, your Taco's weight will be born by the studs alone, which it is not designed to do. Your Taco wheels are also hubcentric to keep the weight on the hub/axles. Also, the wheel offset on these 8" wheels is likely different from your Taco wheels.
Having said that, I am interested in the wheels myself and was wondering what they are asking for them. My email is dmiller@fliptag.com. Thanks in advance!
On the rotors, I only turn them if they're warped (you'll feel pulsing) which is often going to cause them to warp again sooner since you're removing metal. Personally, I just put new pads on myself each time they wear out and don't pull the rotors.
IdahoDoug
Thanks for the in depth info on the wheels. I will stop by and find out the pertinent info for you. The vehicle looks like a rollover, but the two wheels I can see from the road look round. I'll try to pass the info. If you're actually in Idaho, the shipping may be hell from TN.
Too bad there's no buying or selling permitted on Town Hall :-)
Steve, Host
As for brake pads wearing out quicker on the rear of '00-up TLC, I wonder if the VSC is engaging the rear pads on the inside wheel when you make sharp turns, hence eventually wearing the rear pads out first. My guess is that VSC has reduced the life expectancy of brake pads on the newer TLC, since the brakes are now performing the work previously done by locking/limited slip differentials. In the long run, this may actually increase the differential life at the expense of brake life. Since brakes are easier/cheaper to service, this may not be a bad trade-off.
Should I stick with the Michelin LTX ?
My driving is not off road. I've heard whatever tire used it must have good sidewall strength for safe handling. I would appreciate hearing any other recommendations.
The stock 275/70 is a fairly unusual size and if you want to keep stock sizes, the choices are:
Bridgestone Desert Dualer - a horrible tire that was recently redesigned into a good tire.
Michelin LTX M+S - a very good tire that's been around for eons and is highly rated.
Michelin Cross Terrain - an excellent tire that will likely replace the LTX and is better in nearly every measure but a tad more expensive. I'd choose this one, personally.
Sidewall strength is not the strong suit of the LTX, and the Cruiser requires no particular tire characteristics in this area. In fact, some feel the LTX sidewalls are rather weak. They and the new Cross Terrain do preserve the Cruiser's ride qualities, however - especially the Cross Terrain.
Since you are full time 4WD, be sure to replace them all at once, and of course rotate and monitor pressures, blah blah.
IdahoDoug
Thanks once again.
I've heard of the cross terrain and am starting to see it more and more on vehicles.Probably will go that route. Have you had experience with www.Tire Rack.com ?
My dash indicator light for drive (D) is out.
P,R,2 and 1 all light up okay. Do you know where the problem lies. Is it a dash bulb ?
Never experienced this before.
I've heard only good things about TireRack and on a trip this summer I actually visited their HQ and picked up a set of winter tires for my Cruiser. With their low prices and no shipping I saved big. However, I've never had them ship tires as I find that I can come withing a few bucks locally by being aggressive and local purchase means free rotations for life, road hazards, etc. I'm willing to spend a bit more for local purchase and I suggest you price it out fully before going with tire rack. By the time you add shipping for bulky tires, and then pay to have them mounted, you're not always saving much.
As for jacking, I never jack up the body. It's much faster and easier to put the jack under the front suspension member and lift only 2 inches to remove a tire on the road. On the rear you can use the axle. This is far more stable and safe than leaning the entire body just to lift a tire. To use this jack at home to rotate, you'll need a jack stand or the like to hold that corner up while you put the jack on another corner to get a tire for rotating. But on the road, you'll not need this unless you're in the habit of rotating your tires while on the road. ;-) Don't forget to use anti-sieze on the threads and a torque wrench so you don't warp your rotors from over tightening the lugnuts.
IdahoDoug
Chris
I saw this at an oil change place. Look forward to doing it myself now.
Thank you