Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • The Denali grill will fit, but you have to buy the lower turn signal lights, they are different, the headlights are the same shape so those will work fine. There is also an aftermarket company,DJ Motorsports that has a grill that is almost the same, but no GMC logo part number is HG-1000. You can check it out here:, look up the dealers near you and call around for pricing, some places are a lot more than others. Summit Racing carries them for $249.95, summit's part number is DMT-HG1000.

    As far as the speakers go I use the auto tone to get the best sound from the stock system. The sub woofer is on the left side of the Yukon in the rear cargo wall, it's where the spare tire went on the old ones. Now for the front speakers I would look into getting some A-pillars form the dealer for a Denali, they have the tweeters built into them. That should bring the sound field up to ear level.

  • I'm new to Edmunds, so if there's a way to search on old messages to find the answer from history, or if I'm on the wrong board, please let me know.

    1. In the Dallas area, what's the best price you've seen on a Yukon XLT w/ luxury pkg (compared to dealer invoice)?

    2. Sewell sells a "dual vision" or "double vision" tv/vcp/dvd system with 2 screens mounted from the ceiling. Anyone seen this, have an opinion, or know where to find it aftermarket?

    3. How hard is it to install a wood trim kit? They're $350-$400 online vs $700 from the dealer.

    4. How hard is it to install a billet grill?

    4. Where's the best place online to buy aftermarket wood trim, grills, tv's, etc.?

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome to the Town Hall!

    At the moment, our search facility leaves a bit to be desired but Edmund's is working on improving the system! Meanwhile, enjoy the boards!

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Best place online i found for billet grills is

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    for even more info on gm vehicles check out

  • I'm on my second Suburban, and I have notice a few problems/differences from my first 'Burb

    I leased my first Suburban, a '97, which I had planned to keep at the end of the lease, but was unable to negotiate a decent price for a buyout. I wasn't ready to buy new again, and found a '98 LT that was loaded and with low miles. Since the drivetrain supposedly hadn't changed between 97 and 98 I expected the performance and mileage to be the same. It hasn't been.

    1.) First thing I noticed was different mileage. My 97 would get 17+ on the highway and around 14 in town. Towing would drop the mileage 2 to 3 mpg. The best mileage that my 98 has yielded has been 15 on the highway and about 12 in town. Towing drops the mileage into the single digits. My dealer said that it was probably the autotrac that was dropping the mileage, but I've monitored the mileage long term now, in warm weather and no autotrac usage, and the mileage hasn't improved. The engine in the 98 doesn't seem as strong, either. Same 5.7 Liter, same 3.42 rear end.

    2.) The ride quality is not as good. The 98 came equipped with the touring suspension (46mm Bilstein shocks) and wheels seem to get an excess of hop over bumps, and I will get rear wheel hop sometimes if the rear wheels are slipping in snow. The 98 still only has about 32,000 miles on it, and this was present from the early 20,000 mile range. Could the factory shocks really wear out that quickly? Or could it be the cheesey Firestone tires? I noticed that the specs for these tires show a much higher psi requirement.

    3.) The engine knocks when it's cold. The dealer said it was normal, and handed me a TSB for the big block engines. I found the correct TSB for the 1998 5.7 engine that stated some engines had miss bored main journals, and the noise was caused from crankshaft flex. Anybody else ran into that? My dealer can't give me the same explantion twice, from "they all do that", (no they don't; my 97 didn't), to the wrong TSB, to finally he was going to have to call GM about that one.

    I really loved my 97, but I didn't really want to make the investment in such a large, expensive to operate vehicle again. I tried to find something else when it was time to trade, but found I couldn't get by without a Suburban. 4 kids, a 100 lb yellow lab, 24' cabin cruiser in the summer and a 4 place enclosed snowmobile trailer in the winter made me rule out just about everything else.

    By the way, used Excursions are a hell of a value right now. Just looked at 2001 XLT premium with 19000 miles for only $25,000. Vehicle was in excellent condition. I'm just too attached to the 'Burbs to make the switch, even though I'm not as happy with the one I have right now.
    They had the Black Vinyl Fabric Style
    {i.e. Le Bra] with flannel linings.
    $34.95 a pair (includes shipping)
    The site check out basket says [quantity-1]
    and that does mean - 1 pair
  • Hi, First time poster here. I am looking into buying a Yukon XL and have been reveiwing some of the post's,it sounds like I can't go wrong with this one. My question is has anyone expierenced any problems with one (i.e. noise, vibration, handeling). Any help and/or advice would be appreciated.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    are a hell of a value right now." No they aren't; they're cheap -- and for good reason. Think ride and mileage in your sub are bad........
    -- don
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome to the Town Hall, teamroper, and Happy New Year to ALL!

  • dbbndbbn Posts: 1
    The same happened to my 1997 GMC Suburban several times before I finally found the problem. Local dealer couldn't find anything either as it was intermittent. In my case (your issue may certainly be different from mine) the problem was the relay(s) that controlled the rear fan speed. This happened both summer and winter, using heat or a/c. The rear fan would continue blowing air even when the ignition was turned off. I wouldn't notice the fan was still on when I left the truck and upon return the battery was surprise as the fan was on for an extended period of time usually overnight sometimes even several days. Jump start didn't work for me either but this was because of my theft alarm. Try to monitor rear fan when turning ignition off and exiting your may eventually find it still blowing air. Hope this helps. By the way I just picked up my 2002 Chevy K2500 LT with the 8100 vortec (2 miles on the odo). WOW!!! I thought my 454cid 1993 and my 7400 vortec 1997 were peppy. By comparison the 8100 is incredible. Good luck with your truck.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon XL LT purchased new in November 01. Currently I have 1700 miles on it.
    I live in upstate New York and am considering a remote starter for it. Does anyone have any experience with this accessory on new Yukons? The dealership does not install this equipment and said if a problem was diagnosed that was traced to the remote starter it would void the warranty on this system. Any advice? Thanx.
  • plrodplrod Posts: 13
    yielding the better mousetrap. I'm in the market for a 97 - 99 Sub and just wandering if it's just a luck of the draw on getting a good one. I know to stay away from the diesels and the 5.7 is fine for our needs; I'd like a 4X but not critical as most use will not require it.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have used DEI products such as Viper, Valet and some of the other brands like Hornet. I would back them 100%, in the past 11 years I have not have any problems with any of DEI's products one of the cars is still family owned and 0 problems to report with the alarm or the other related systems. The real trick is to find a qualified installer, not just some backyard flunky with a pair of wire cutters. Ask around at the shops near you, you want a shop that skins the wire insulation and solders the wires onto the existing, this way none of the original wires get cut, saving countless hours trouble shooting a faulty connection done with a crimp on connector. My wife has a '97 S-10 not a single problem with her remote start, and I have a '01 YXL with remote start no problems. One thing I must tell you so they don't give you a surprise is that your SUV will need a passkey work around module that bypasses the factory starter kill when activated by the remotes. The cost for this add on is between $30 an $50 depending on brand and the area you live in. Enjoy the already warm vehicle in those cold NY winters!!

    Before I forget, check with your local Police Dept to find out if there is an ordnance that prohibits leaving a running car unattended. In my ares there are several cities that have these old laws and they are now capitalizing on them to make money by writing tickets.

    Please use this add on responsibly, if you park in a garage, especially if it's attached to the house DO NOT RUN THE VEHICLE IN THE GARAGE!! Even with the door open, save yourself and your family the health problems.
  • all4all4 Posts: 13
    Hello Folks,

    I am a newbie at this site, just got a 2002 yukon XL and am wondering what type of engine oil to use. Not sure whether to go for the synthetic type or regular petroleum.

    I posted this the other day in the wrong area so sorry for the repeat message. Have to look over us new folks.

  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    with a PF-59, UGPF-59 or Mobil-1 filter every 5K miles and you and your truck should have a long, happy life. Also wouldn't hurt to have Blackwoods to an oil test every 20K - 25 K miles.
    -- don
  • We have been very disappointed in the wear on the leather seats on 2000 Suburban delivered in April 2000. Became noticable after six to eight months. It is NOT due to kids climbing over. Any one had, or heard of, similar problems, and any fixes by Chevy. (Moderator, If this has been ediscussed earlier, can you refer me to message numbers?)
  • Thanks for the suggestion on the third seat light - I'm on it! Sick of the kids asking for the dome lights to be turned on so they can "find something."
  • Help! I'll bet this has already been addressed, but where?

    Which to buy?

    Need Large tow vehicle, trying to decide between bottom level 4x4 'burban vs yukon xl.
    3/4 ton ver. 6.0 liter.

    will get 4.10 rear gear, lock diff, few comfort features, dont like leather (too sticky in So Fla).

    dont need/want 3 row seat, leather, confort features,

    looks like yukon is a little cheaper?

    comments ? thanx! (and GO CANES!)
  • Any news on the subs getting a larger tank? One a '96 with a 42 gallon tank but now see the 2000+ models have about a 31 gallon tank (due I think to the spare tire placed undercarriage). Would prefer to have the larger tank - any ideas, options, retrofits available. In my opinion, The extra 170+ miles is the difference maker on the suburban vs. other SUV for road trips. Thanks.
  • drejdrej Posts: 119
    ref,post #1826 of 1881 1995 Yukon Lost "Cruise Contrl" 5.7L 75Kmi by drej
    Has anyone had a DIY fix of tracing or repairing the Cruise Control.?
    Thanks in Advance.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    ftldiver: I don't really think you'll find much difference between the two choices other than the aesthetics of the front end grill/headlight assemblies and a few interior "touches". The prices should be relatively comparable if you are comparing equally outfitted vehicles.

    I do think however since you have decided on the 3/4 ton chassis that you might want to consider the 8.0L engine instead of the 6.0L. Nothing wrong with the 6.0L and in fact its a tremendous engine. I own a Denali XL (which comes standard with the 6.0L) and love the pulling power but I prefer the comfort of the 1/2 ton chassis.

    I've owned two previous 3/4 ton Subs before the DXL and chose the largest power available with 4wd.

    Given your needs for heavy towing, I would go with the max power available which would be the 340hp and 455ftlbs of torque with a 12,000lb tow rating. There is nothing rated higher and if heavy towing is the requirement, nothing with 4 tires can match the towing capabilities of a 3/4 ton Sub or Yukon XL with the 8.0L engine.
  • mikekimikeki Posts: 3
    Hi All - New to the board as I'm getting ready to purchase a 2002 XL - Black. I was looking at the Denali also but can't justify all that extra $$$. I do howerver like the bumper covers that come on the Denali that match the truck. Any info on if you can purchase these and where. I have seen some Yukons that had the bumpers painted but wanted to see if there was an easier way.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome to the Town Hall, mikeki - looking forward to more of your input!

  • I have a 2001 Yukon XL 3/4 ton with the 6.0L engine. When I start the engine in the morning there seems to be alot of lifter noise. I was wondering if anyone has heard anything about this or is not a problem.

  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    chloeann: I have the 6.0L in a 2001 Denali XL and have had no lifter noise even from the moment of startup on some of our recent mornings in the high teens. I know that doesn't help much however I have not seen anyy other lifter noise issues regarding this engine. What weight oil are you using and how cold has it been?

    If the oil is too heavy a grade on a very cold morning there will be limited oil reaching the heads and lifters until the oil "thins" out from heating.
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    OK! I'm ready to join the ranks of Sub/Yukon XL
    owners. I'm going down on Monday to order a new
    2500 Yukon XL, God willing. This is the deal I was offered: Invoice, plus $500, plus .5% advertising fee.

    I need answers! And I know you guys have them!

    How long for a truck to be delivered from the time of order? Is it possible it could be here within 8 weeks; want to get the $2,000 incentive.

    How can I check progress on the production of my truck? And the shipping?

    Is there anything I should be asking the dealer or having him do to stay on top of things and speed things up?

    What about restrictions?

    Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help.

    Stan the Car-buyin' Man (my daughter's weird sense of humor)
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    The 3/4 ton models have a 38.5 gallon tank, actually it's 2 tanks the regular 31 gallon tank and an auxiliary tank with a pump to transfer the fuel from one tank to the other. As of yet I have yet to see a retro fit kit for the 1/2 ton model.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I hate to rain on the parade but it took me 5 months to get my 2500 YXL. I ordered in October delivered in March. You may get lucky and it will get preferenced right into production. If you really need the 3/4 ton it's worth the wait, TRUST me!!! If you really want to try to speed up the deal have the dealer do a search of the area where you live and see about a dealer trade. You might get lucky!! I always say don't waver on what you want because you will never be happy with the it in the end. So get EXACTLY what you want!! I would only change the color on mine if they could find one, but no luck and I couldn't be happier with what I ordered.

    The dealership can give you all the information on where your order is in the build process. Once it gets a build date assigned to it, it usually takes 3-5 days for assembly/testing. From there it depends on where you are in relation to the plant the truck is built at. Mine was built in Mexico and it took 1 week to get to Detroit,MI. Somewhere in this topic someone posted a way to track your vehicle on the railroad using the vin #.

    The dealer sales manager gets a list of thing on restrictions, so if you are concerned about that ask him about it. Remember the list is a weekly list and what's on this week might not be on next week, and vice versa. I had problems with the rims, and liftgate.
Sign In or Register to comment.