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Jeep Cherokee

meredithmeredith Member Posts: 575
This topic is a continuation of Topic 1254....

Jeep Cherokee SE Sport. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host


  • stevenmannstevenmann Member Posts: 1
    I've just bought one of what I was told was a limited run of 2001 Cherokee Classics. It's my first Jeep, although my family has had a Cherokee and a G-Cherokee. They have had outstanding service with them. I'm replacing a 98 Subaru Outback. I needed something that can tow and the Suby just isn't up to it. Does anyone out there know a good site for getting accessories for these Jeeps? The dealer seems pretty expensive. Thanks for any help.

  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
  • cmangcmang Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD. Starting at 50mph there is a vibration in the steering wheel and it can also be felt underfoot. When highway driving last weekend (not in 4WD), I noticed it even more climbing mountains (highway) I have had it checked at the dealer several times. Tires and rims have been rotated and some replaced. I am still experience the vibrating. The dealer told me this is characteristic of this vehicle because of the 4WD. Does any other owner have the same problem? cmang
  • rasinforasinfo Member Posts: 2
    Sure I saved $2000, but I forgot my rule: Don't buy American cars (o., maybe a Saturn) My father and his friends are all auto workers, so I have a long list of reasons why. But with a Cherokee, I assumed to be "proven". Here's what I got.

    $24000 for a bad transmission.

    84 miles, yes eighty-four.
    - Gear shift rattles in Neutral unless the clutch is pushed in.
    - Strong lurch into 2, 3, and 4th.
    - "Chunk" is the sound of gears catching

    The dealer has the shop Norman come take a test drive with me. <'Kunk' he shifts> "I don't hear anything wrong <'Kunk' he shifts again and we lurch>.
    Back in the shop he shows me the computer saying there are no factory warnings about this model. "Then why don't you look up 2001, instead of 2000 or 1999?" I ask.
    "They're the same." the dealer shop guy replied, "This is the way Jeeps drive, this is their standard."

    JEEP, your standard sucks.

    Next time my money goes for better engineering, diligent workers, and repairman who are of Asian decent.
  • davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    OK, but how do you really feel? How is the size and comfort? I was leaning toward the Xterra or maybe take the leap for a 4Runner, but the lower price of the Cherokee has me intrigued. I want a rugged 4x4 with a true ladder frame (I know, the Cherokee isn't a ladder frame, but it does have 2 solid axles). 2 solid axles, and V8 or V6 power. I really like the Inline 6 that Jeep uses, Inline motors are real truck motors, but I don't think I could deal with such poor quality. Looks like I'm gonna have to go search the internet for First Generation Broncos and IH Scouts again!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    01 Sport 4X4

    4 weeks, 3000 miles I like mine really well. No problems to mention, kinda thristy, drives like a truck. Exactly what I was looking for. The price and utility makes the Cherokee perfect in my book. In-laws have a Grand Ltd. and it's nice, but feels more like a luxo car than a utility vehicle. If someone wants a urban SUV, take your pick there's plenty to choose from. Not many useful SUV's out there. I don't think the quality issues would be anything a scout or bronco wouldn't have. Anymore when people complain about quality it seems to be rattles, fit & finish, and cupholders in the wrong spots:)

    The I6 is very truckish. Good torque, good pickup. I haven't done much off-roading yet, but what I've done the Jeep pretty much laughed it off.

    I paid $20,600 plus tax for mine:4X4, 4-door, auto, alloys, tow pkg, fogs, tint. Can't beat that IMHO. I'm normally a toyota guy, but for that price I'd be looking at a 4 year old 4runner with 50K miles.
  • sasquatch_2000sasquatch_2000 Member Posts: 800
    The one thing I like about the Jeep Cherokee is the styling and the motor. Too bad my knees hit the steering wheel! My Honda Civic has more head, knee, leg (need seat short of all the way back), and shoulder room. I am leaning towards the Blazer because of this.
  • davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    Thanks for the info, I'm trying to decide between a Cherokee or a Wrangler. Every old Bronco or Scout that I find is either perfect and way too expensive, or it is really rough and I don't have time to fix it right. One thing that makes me lean toward the Wrangler is the ability to get the 5 speed. Around here 5 speed Cherokees are really rare. Thanks again.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Hell yeah on the wrangler if you can live with that. I do alot of highway travel carrying stuff and sometimes people so I have to keep my "utility" needs under control. I'm thining about a wrangler as well though as a fun vehicle. Had a CJ years ago and that was a blast, but lots of work! Seems like the new wranglers are just as expensive as the Cherokees, but I doubt you'll find a 5-speed XJ anywhere. I heard from someone that tried to order one, and didn't have any luck.
  • pattinh69pattinh69 Member Posts: 1
    I just wanted to say that I LOVE my jeep Cherokee, I leased a 99 sport 2 door, 5 spd...and today, I bought it at the end of my lease! The lease end price could not be beat, and I knew it was taken care of-versus buying anything else used! The only thing I dislike is the 2 door part of it all, but I can "live" with it! Yes, Jeeps tend to ride rougher than other SUV's, but my jeep has been nothing but trouble free... no klunking, shifting noises, etc... and I tow trailers with sleds on them just about every weekend.. just my two cents! Patti
  • bobcatbobbobcatbob Member Posts: 187
    Daimler Chrysler announced yesterday that it was ceasing production of the Cherokee this year and transfering all the workers to the new plant that will build the Liberty.

    For a link to the article, check out the Liberty messgae board.
  • fbi5220fbi5220 Member Posts: 1
    I am planning on buying a 93 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 141,000 miles one it, what do you recommend, This is my first car ever. I just got my licence, and I need a good car/SUV that wont let me down.
    It might get batten a little, I am not planing on beatting on it to hard because I am paying for it my self.
    Please, help and tell me if I should buy it, or forget about it.
  • jimmy19gjimmy19g Member Posts: 2
    i purchased a fully loaded cherokee limited and took delivery march oo. all yes all of the screws were missing in both drivers side doors, the paint stripe was missing under the door handle. i figured it would be easyier to install them myself, but oh no they don't even have part numbers for screws, ended up taking it back to the dealer who installed all the wrong type screw and missed some too. besides the exhsast rattly and some drivetrain whinning, it been okay. the only reason i purchased it is because ther are tons of these for sale, 8 years old 180,000 miles, and they still sell fot $5000. not bad i thought, but in my opinion chrysler treats it's custmers like crap!!! last one of their products i'll ever buy.
  • rasinforasinfo Member Posts: 2

    At 6', I'm bumping my head anytime I run over a stone in the road. This is an American car? The XTerra had head room to spare. But I got a 2001 Cherokee with a bad transmission, NO headroom, and crooked dealership repairmen who won't acknowledge any problems until the warranty runs out.

    Then I see some other people considering buying Ford. I have three family members working for Ford, including my father. I wouldn't even consider buying one of these overpriced, poorly engineered crap traps if I could get it at cost. And I can.

    I can't fathom why people are willing to spend MORE money to buy domestic. The pricing alone is an indication of the inefficiency.

    Wouldn't you like to spend your money on a car built by someone who put in at least 10% the effort you did to earn it?

  • chaser1chaser1 Member Posts: 20
    ... perhaps you could try a different dealer? At the very least, you should try yelling over the dealership's head if you feel that the "problems" noted warrant repair...
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    What's up with the tranny going? I thought maybe the Cherokee tranny would be strong since it was Japanese. Although a low mileage tranny failure isn't usually indicative of a problem area, just a production glitch.

    I'm well over 6' and fit fine with the seat reclined somewhat. I like to stay as far away from that explosive steering wheel as possible! Of course if you're tall with short arms that could be a problem;)
  • minnesotabill1minnesotabill1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Cherokee Classic Up-Country that has had vibrations (30 to 45 and 60 to 75 MPH) from new. The dealer has worked on it many times and only made it a little batter. The Dime store Chrysler re claims it's a "characteristic " of the vehicle now.

    This company (Daimler Chrysler) is turning its back on its customers! I'm one of many who has this issue with a 1997 and ewer Jeep Cherokee! I wish we could get them to own-up to the defect in the 1997 design change that makes this happen!

    If you have any ideas let me know! I've even gone through arbitration. A guy pulled up in a new Dodge truck, took the side of the dealer (characteristic of the vehicle) and blew me off. I have friends with Cherokees and no problems!

    This Jeep has been out of service over 25 days in the first year of ownership. I have had many problems with it! Can you say Lemon! Now the "Zone Rep" dances around the issues to avoid the Lemon law!

    This issue (vibration) is varied in when it happens and how bad it is. I have never seen a Jeep or any vehicle vibrate like this!

    Is it any wonder why Daimler Chrysler operations are suffering now? Treat your customers with a little care and you will grow. Blow them off and you will fail!

  • dcc13dcc13 Member Posts: 1
    perhaps that title is redundant? I recently purchased a 97 Cherokee Sport with 47k on it, with an extended warranty to 75k (that was the deal maker). I have only encountered two problems, and minor ones.

    1. When I am accelerating up an incline at perhaps 40 or 45mph or more, the trans. feels like it's slipping. There is an intermittent "thud" that feels and sounds like its coming from either the trans or front diff., and the engine stays steady at about 1500 rpm when I try to accelerate - basically, it acts like it won't downshift as it climbs. "flooring" the pedal will get it to finally downshift and accelerate properly, but this is strange. Could this be a trans. problem, a front diff. problem...?

    2. It idles (very) poorly in very humid or rainy weather. I live in Baltimore, so this occurs often. Any suggestions? Premium gas didn't alleviate it - perhaps this is one of those "quirks" Jeep owners must deal with.

    Thanks in advance.
  • yettibuttyettibutt Member Posts: 98
    cherokee vibration cause:

    the newer (97+) cherokees, especially with upcountry suspension (becuase you are sitting about 1" higher than a stock cherokee) are prone to these driveline vibrations. this is caused because in 97, the NP231 transfer case was changed, and in effect is longer than the older (<97') transfer cases. this longer t-case causes the driveshaft to be at more of an angle (because the distance from t-case to rear diff is now shorter) and causes the vib's you are talking about. the dealer should try dropping the transfer case down to lessen the angle, this isnt the best fix b/c now you have less ground clearence, they also have to make sure your linkages etc. are not effected and adjust as necessary. if you to there are many discussions about this problem. when lifting a newer cherokee, these vibs can be severe. the permanent, correct fix is something called a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). your driveshaft "slips" in and out of the transfer case as the suspesion moves up and down to maintain the proper driveshaft length. a SYE fixes the driveshaft in the transfer case and gives you a new driveshaft that has a slip joint built in. the SYE kit shortens the output shaft of the t-case and lengthens the driveshaft to stop the vibs. to much info probably but i hope this helps you understand what is going on. take it to a dealer and demand that this is a problem that needs to be taken care of, they certainly have heard it from other owners and can fix it with a transfer case drop.
  • fparisifparisi Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Cherokee Sport. I have had it for a little over a year. I understand that it is an "economy SUV" but I think I have had enough. I have had three sets of rotors replaced as the company's originals warp after 2000 miles. Try putting it into 4 low when you really need it. Idling is rough and noisy, especially in the morning. Heat blower is way to loud. U-turns are less than smooth and fuel economy is poor. Engine noise is ridiculous. I will say this, the Jeep is rugged, powerful and has great instrument panels and accesibilty. It is small and cramped at times but it is somewhat comfortable. The back seat should only be used by children or small adults.

    I thought the four wheel drive was good until I drove my girlfriend's Bravada with SmartTrac, Jeep's little 4x4 can't compare to that on snowy urban streets, offroad yes, urban driving no way. I will never buy a manual 4x4 again.

    It heats up quick and has good A/C but again ,the blower is too loud and you need it on high on hot days.

    Overall, I think the Cherokee sport is a poorly built and designed SUV, it is more suitable for teens and college student or for a second vehicle. I think Chrysler does poor with their customers as the dealerships are cold and greedy. If you are looking at the Jeep Cherokee Sport vs. other SUV in the price range, drive is for more than the 10 minutes the dealer gives you.
  • chaser1chaser1 Member Posts: 20
    Since you didn't mention whether you were comparing Apples to Apples, I'll assume you aren't. The Bravado only comes with a full-time 4WD option - not part time 4WD only. I don't think it's a fair comparison to make between the two (if that's in fact the case) Which -case does the Cherokee have - 231 or 242?

    BMW, I find I/I 4WD better in the snow than full-time, I've certainly never gotten stuck in snow with part time 4WD...

    Then there's the cost factor, I don't believe the Jeep and Old are in the same ball park. Mine idled fine (a little high - but smooth) in the mornings. I was able to get 22MPG with my '98
  • driverleblancdriverleblanc Member Posts: 2
    I am looking to buy a new car and am trying to keep an open mind about it. The thing is I realllllllly like the looks of the original Cherokee. I simply like it. I have a '98 Classic in mind that goes for $16,500, it was a leased vehicle. Is this price reasonable? Also, advise on any of these points please:

    1. Can the 4WD system be driven on half ice/half dry pavement, I've heard that the lower-type 4WD system MUST NOT be driven on ANY dry pavement or it will DESTROY the differentials and drive train. Selectrak can do it but Commandtrak MUST NOT. Any word on this?

    2. The rotors warp and need replacement -- is this true?

    3. What is the classic "electrical problem" Jeeps have had?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Well lets see.

    1) The difference between the Command Trac (part time only) and SelecTrac (full time or partime) is that the Selectrac includes a differential in the transfer case. This permits all 4 wheels to travel different distances when turning. In part time mode, the front and rear drive axles must turn at the same rate, so 1 wheel in front and 1 in the back must also turn at the same rate. When driving in a straight line, this isn't a problem since all 4 wheels are turning at the same rate anyway. But when turning, the front end will start hopping around trying to force the outer wheels to turn at the same rate. This does cause an exceptional amount of wear on everything and can possibly damage stuff.

    In general its not a good idead to drive in part time mode while on pavement that doesn't allow the tires to slip. However, half ice would probably be ok, so long as you keep half the vehicle on the ice to allow the tires on that side to slip when necessary.

    2) In 70xxx miles on my '97, I don't recall having the rotors replaced. I think I've had them turned once or twice, but thats about it. Others may have different experiences.

    3) Classic "electrical problem"? Hmmm. In '97, (the most recent redesign), they did change the design of the wiring harness, so maybe they were having some sort of a shorting problem in prior years. I seem to recall something about the dash lights goin out. Other than that, there's been a recall on the fuel sending unit (which has been known to read 1/4 full when actually empty) and another recall on something for the airbag (inertia senser I think). Thats about it. I haven't been having any "electrical problems".
  • 2ndgsr2ndgsr Member Posts: 3
    This is going to sound stupid but...

    I'm thinking of buying a '98 Sport from a dealer. I've been driving Cherokees my entire driving career. Parents had a '79, then an '86, then my mom got a '92 along with my dad's '86, and now they are still driving the '92 and they replaced the '86 with a '96. (Oh and then there was my '85 CJ-7)

    Anyway, I'm looking a '98 Sport. 2 door. Crank winows, and manual locks. I only ask this as a curiousity, but how difficult is it to retro-fit power locks if I wanted to install an alarm with keyless entry? Does Jeep have the wiring in there already or would I have to string my own to the fuse box?

    (Spoiled with a fully loaded Integra GS-R for the last few years)
  • driverleblancdriverleblanc Member Posts: 2
    I appreciate the feedback and may go ahead and buy it soon. Especially thanks for the description of the 4wheel system, it sounds like the Command Track option is less than the Selectrack option. I am planning to get the vehicle anyway. $16,500, 35,000miles.

    Any other opinions on a 98 Cherokee Classic from this Cherokee community?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well, I guess it comes down to money, but I considered a used one myself. I picked up a 01 4X4 4-door sport (new) for $20,500 with alot of options (tow, tint, wheels, fogs) beyond the normal equipment. I think I could have saved about $1000 without all that extra stuff. I'm not sure what the classic has that's so much different than the sport. I looked at sports a few years old and the savings was between $3,000-$5,000 which wasn't substantial to me mainly because of the amount of miles I drive. I'd rather start at zero than 36K. I've had it 6 weeks/4300 miles and it does the job quite well.
  • kcorvinokcorvino Member Posts: 1
    i have a 4 month old cherokee sport and the break noise is outrageous. i'm getting ready to go into arbitration with chrysler...any advice?
  • green20green20 Member Posts: 3
    In a week or so I will be getting a 2001 Cherokee Sport and am excited about driving a SUV that doesn't need pampering.

    I would appreciate opinions on the virtues of part-time v. full time 4 wheel.

    In the past I have driven an AWD V8 Explorer and an AWD Lexus rx 300 (both parents' vehicles) so I may be a bit spoiled when it comes to 4wd.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Your spoilage means you probably won't be content with Command-trac. If you are accustumed to driving around in 4wd, you'll want the full-time 4wd ability of Selec-Trac.

    Command-Trac is part time only and can be used only when offroad, on snow, etc, not on dry pavement.

    On the other hand, unless you get a limited slip, you'll have 3 open differentials with the Selec-Trac; you can get stuck if even one tire loses traction when in 4wd Fulltime (of course, when that happens, you change to part-time).

    Since I'm not spoiled by AWD, the part time transfer case works just fine for my needs.
  • tonysracingtonysracing Member Posts: 80
    Just drove by our local dealer, he has 2 2001 sports on the lot, both yellow. One is a 2 door, other is a 4 door. I cant find any info on Jeep producing a yellow Cherokee, it's not listed in the colors on the jeep website. Anyone else seen yellow? Going to check it out now and see what the deal is.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    By biggest problem with the full-time system is all the extra parts. I like to keep things simple driving as many miles as I do because I don't like expensive repairs. The part-time system is a very good system and has less to break. If you won't keep it more than a few years and mainly are on the road, the full-time system is probably just fine for you.
  • sasquatch_2000sasquatch_2000 Member Posts: 800
    Maybe it saw use as a cab in the tropics?

    Maybe it worked for the electric utility pulling spools of wire?
  • tonysracingtonysracing Member Posts: 80
    These are brand new 2001 models, and now they have three, 2 four doors and one 2 door.
  • eaganeagan Member Posts: 25
    my local dealer has actually quite a few yellow cherokees on the lot. i didn't notice if they were 2 or 4 door but they definately stand out. my friend had(until he cracked his rear axle) a yellow wrangler and it looked sweet. i still dont know id i would buy a yellow car though.

  • pennywisepennywise Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Cherokee sport and I love it. I have 14,500 miles on it and have had only one annoying problem up until last weekend. This weekend, I had the oil changed and I was told that the differential is leaking. I am very easy on my Cherokee it is never abused. I have used the full time four-wheel drive four or five times in ice and snow. I am a little concerned about this leak and I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. If this is a sign of problems, I think I will invest in the extended warranty but generally, I think extended warranties are a waste of money. I am concerned that I may be seeing a sign of future problems. Anyone know anything about this?

    Also, the minor problem I referred to earlier is a shimmey in the tire. It is with one tire and moves with the tire when they are rotated. It seems to stop for a short time after the tires are balanced but comes back after a couple of weeks. Anyone had this problem?
  • sallyk1sallyk1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Fellas,

    I just got a brand new 2001 Cherokee Sport and I think I may have a rough idle. When I sit at a light or before I start out, I notice that my RPMs bounce a little, maybe 700-800 RPMS and the truck vibrates.

    And I also notice that (sometimes) when the engine is cold the RPMs are a little higher, around 900 or so.

    I used to drive a Concorde, which was a smooth riding road machine, so I'm not sure if I'm not used to the Jeep yet, or if there actually IS a problem.

    Could there be a possibility that I didn't let the Pistons seat properly during the initial 500 miles. There are 2000 miles on it now.

    Anyone know??

    One more thing, I also notice a metal to metal rubbing sound on the front left wheel/axle when I drive. I know its not road noise. It sounds like something needs to be greased.

    I have been switching in and out of 4 wheel over the past few weeks with the snow we have had. Could there be a problem there?

    Thanks again.
  • sasquatch_2000sasquatch_2000 Member Posts: 800
    I would feel like a cabbie in a yellow car.

    Watch out for tires getting sucked into the engine in those Concordes!

  • green20green20 Member Posts: 3
    Re the yellow cherokees:

    my jeep dealer tells me a lot more will be arriving at dealers as part of a last ditch marketing effort. They think that yellow will be popular in the spring.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The idle you described is normal for this engine. It's a work horse. It will idle higher when cold also. If the climate control is in either defrost mode, the A/C will cycle on which also raises the rpm's for a few seconds.

    Is the noise constant in the front? Mine is noiser especially in 4X4, but I don't know about metal on metal. The air intake is also on the drivers side, which makes alot of racket. An inline-6 engine sounds alot different than a V6 or any other engine for the most part. If it's actually metal on metal, something will self-destruct soon and it won't be a mystery!
  • jeepercreeperjeepercreeper Member Posts: 2
    Is it common for Jeeps to have *ignore* seals? I have a 94 4WD Sport 4dr and it has a *ignore* main seal, and rear differential. I have noticed a few other Cherokees on the road with the rear differential looking a little oily.
  • jeepercreeperjeepercreeper Member Posts: 2
    please insert "leaky" in place of *ignore* in my earlier post...........sigh.......
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    "On the other hand, unless you get a limited slip, you'll have 3 open differentials withthe Selec-Trac; you can get stuck if even one tire loses traction when in 4wd Fulltime (of course, when that happens, you change to part-time)."

    As I recall, SelectTrac has a 4WD High Part-time mode as well, so the centre differential can be locked (though not for dry pavement of course!).

    Vans and SUVs message boards
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    1) Leaking differential: Which differential is leaking? Depending on whether you have 2wd, 4wd part time, or 4wd fulltime, you can have 1, 2, or 3 differentials.

    Have you verified that it is actually leaking, rather than just depending on the word of the place which changed your oil that may, ...well... be looking for a little extra work?

    If it is really leaking, well then it sounds like the seal is bad. Replacing it shouldn't be the biggest job in the world (drain the fluid / remove the cover / clean up all the surfaces / install new sealant / replace the cover / tighten to spec / replace the fluid).

    2) Tire shimmy: It sounds like the weights in the problematic tire aren't being installed correclty, so that they're coming loose. Have you always been taking it to the same tire place? Maybe try taking it somewhere else.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Ummmm.... I thought that's what I was saying with the parenthetical ending. I guess I wasn't clear.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Oh okay... Maybe I wasn't looking as clearly either :-)

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  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Did you catch Car and Drivers test of 11 sport-utes this month? They pretty much thrashed the Cherokee. The funny thing is, I thought that test was actually going to be for usefulness because it tested their snow-going ability. They couldn't get the Cherokee stuck but the top two winners were the worst in the snow (Escape/Tribute). Jeep has a niche market right now with the Cherokee if you compare all the data. None of the newer utes can tow worth a crap, all the HP is in 6000rpm range, they have no torque at a usable RPM, and who would ever need a low range? After the end of the Cherokee, you won't be able to buy a smaller/reasonably priced SUV that can do anything but ride good around the mall. They can rate these utes to tow whatever they want, but high rpm HP and Torque doesn't work. Later, I'm done ranting for now.
  • dane5dane5 Member Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport at our local Chrysler dealership in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada. I won't get into the fact that the service there was a nightmare. Since I wanted the vehicle, I put up with it. In short, this is my first 4x4 vehicle and I know little or nothing about the feature. While it seems to be running fine, I do leave it in four wheel drive most of the time. The roads here are bad, snow covered and icy with lots of gravel. Will this hurt the part-time four wheel drive system? Also, on my second oil change I requested synthetic oil. It has been between -42 and -30 Celsius for a couple of months here and I heard it is better for cold weather driving. Is this true? My thanks to anyone who takes the time to reply.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    sebring: Thanks for the heads up. Yeah, I'm pretty disgusted too. It's not so much that I hate the Liberty (I don't), just that I can't believe DC would cut off the Cherokee even when its still selling so well. If they'd just freshen up the interior...

    You'll have to ultimately decide this for yourself. The part time transfer case doesn't have a differential in it. Consequently, the front and rear driveshafts turn at the same rate. When you make a turn, the outside 2 wheels 1)Want to turn at the same rate becauase of the driveshafts but 2)Want to turn at different rates because they travel different paths.

    Thus something has to give. When the ground is snow/ice covered, you won't have a problem because one of the tires will easily scrub off the difference in speed (it "slides" some relative to the ground). Same thing on gravel.

    If, though, the pavement is dry and your tires have very good traction, it takes much more effort for the tire to slip. Consequently, it puts much more stress on the transfer case. Just from looking at a map to see where "Yellowknife" is, I doubt during the winter months you would have to take it out of 4wd very often (I got cold just looking at the map!).

    Fortunately, shift on the fly makes it pretty easy to go in and out as needed. If you notice the front end hopping around a bunch when you make a turn, you might want to consider disengaging the front driveshaft for the turn.

    Synthetic Oil: There is a forum under the "Maintenance & Repair" conference where alot of people debate the merits of synthetic oil. Regardless of the arguments for/against prolonged change intervals, I suspect everyone would agree that synthetic is a benefit at VERY low temperatures. If I were you, I would be going with 0W30 synthetic (I personally like Mobil1, but there are other brands as well).

    Good luck. I'm kind of glad I live in the southern US. :-)
  • bennie99bennie99 Member Posts: 1
    Wow, I see all this complaining in here about the Cherokee. I guess I got a cherry. Got a 99 Sport. Not had a lick of trouble with it. Done long range hauling, city driving, off road, the works. It's been a champ all the way. The cost effectiveness of the Cherokee can't be beat.

    Yea I guess if you want near perfection you can go out and pay $70K for a Range Rover 4.6.
    But do you want to throw your muddy dogs in the back after a romp thru the creek? And how do you feel after the paint job gets scratched up driving through some brush. What are you buying the vehicle for - going to the opera? It's a UTILITY vehicle.

    Yes it's a little noisier than a Rolls Royce and rides rougher than a Cadillac. Cmon! It's unbelievable how fat-assed soft people have become.
  • dane5dane5 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information. Let me see if I understand now how the part-time 4 wd works. What you are saying is as long as the wheels can slip in turns, even a little, then the length of time you keep the 4 wd engaged isn't a concern -- even if it is engaged for months? I would drive in 2wd for a few hours then put it back in four thinking that would make a difference, but it probably doesn't? While driving in 2, it was unstable and I'd prefer not to do that until the snow melts. As for the other posting (bennie 99) today, I agree. The roads here are close to third world out of the city of Yellowknife because of permafrost. There is 140 km of gravel road driving into Yellowknife, even though it is a capital city. In winter the highway is just covered in packed snow. But in summer when it rains, it just turns to mud (imagine spring thaw). The Cherokee is perfect for these conditions. Right now I have to travel on an ice road across the Great Slave Lake to a First Nations community every week for my work. The traction is wicked and I feel very safe and comfortable in all conditions. I've put 20,000 km on my Cherokee Sport so far and it has been perfect. I want it to stay that way which is why I check out sites like this. Anyway, thanks again for the information. By the way, the summers may be short here but they are amazing, 24 hours of sunlight and the best fishing in the world. Winters, well with a snowmachine and a Cherokee it's not that bad. Later, Dane.
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