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Southern California
2016 TLX base/MSRP 32,625
Sales Price $27,500
36 months
10,000 miles
$0 customer cash down payment (except rebate below)
($1750 Edmunds/Acura Finance Cap Cost reduction cash)
MF .00070/ aka 1.48%
$260 month plus sales tax.
Due: $1st payment 260 plus tax, and the tax on rebate (about $140).
Happy hunting.
59% residual, 0.0007 MF. Sale price 32093.00 with additional 1750 edmunds rebate.
Is this a good deal? And what is lease cash in OH?
$2000 lease cash + $500 bonus lease cash
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Dealer cannot modify this.
With your prices, I get $358/mo before tax.
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MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
There is also $500 bonus lease cash, in addition to the $2000.
It's really rare to see an Acura dealer markup the money factor.
I'd work really hard at shopping another Acura dealer. With $2500 in lease cash, the $2900 discount is unimpressive. I agree, even $475/mo would be ridiculously high for this car.
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$1500/$2000 lease cash for Base/Tech + $500 bonus lease cash on either.
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Use the "make / model / year" pull downs at the top of the page to link to the price tools. Your goal is to beat the TMV number.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
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Just know that the key to your lease payment amount is the sales price of the car. The bank (Acura Fianancial or Ally or USBank, etc) is buying the car from the dealer and then 'renting' it (aka a lease) to you. Your merely negotiating the price of that loan, the significant part of which is the sales price of the car. The interest rate (MF), acquisition fee, tax, DMV fee are all fixed rates-though the MF can vary depending on your credit or if the dealer inflates it to get a cut.
The $2000/2,500 lease cash mentioned here by the moderators goes straight from the bank to the dealer -you'll never see it. So when they are quoting you a $34,000 sales prices on a MSRP $36500 they are collecting-- that is, charging you- full sticker! Your sales price should be close to $30,500, and then add in the $1750 edmunds deal cash (treat it like a gift certificate) and your cap cost should be in the $28,5000s. In many states you have to pay sales tax on the edmunds money, btw.
Shop around, go to a Chicago dealer if you have the time. $90 a month for 36 months is over $3,000. If I paid you $3000 to take a vacation in Chicago for the weekend would you do it?
Can I get lease details (money factor, residual, etc) for a 2015 TLX (new, from unsold inventory). Would this use the 2016 leasing rules, or 2015? The price on the 2015 models was reduced by $5000, which is why I'm asking. Always looking for a deal!
Also, what credit guidelines are required? I've heard Acura is more strict than Honda, but I've not missed a payment, ever.
Thank you!
Assume .00175 MF. But, no residual info. That $5K discount may be a final payout from Acura to the dealers for leftover inventory.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
I've created a separate 2017 discussion:
http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/42389/acura/tlx/2017-acura-tlx-lease-questions/p1?new=1
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Base + Tech Package
V6 + Tech Package
$2000 lease cash and $500 bonus lease cash for all non-base trims. $1500 lease cash for base trims.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
The .00070 that you stated... is that for any credit rating? I applied for credit with my local dealer and asked what the money factor would be. They said, "we would have to see what you qualify for." Do you have tiered money factors for the 2016 TLX?
We don't have any information from Acura about the MF if not top tier.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
3yr / 12k miles. Sign & Drive ($0 due at signing)
$331 / month (including tax / title / tags) with $1750 edmunds cash
How does this deal sound? Can I do better?
Tax rate and state?
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Honestly did not get into the sell price since the payment ultimately (total cost of the lease) is what I care about and have no plans to buy out at end of the lease
Can you confirm my understanding pls of current TLX pricing?
I am looking for a 2016 TLX w/Tech.
MSRP is 36,690
Online price is 31,333 including the 299 doc fee (is this a good price?)
On top of this, if I understand correctly, I will get another 2500 in lease cash and another 1750 in Edmunds cash.
Therefore, my lease would be based off of a 55% (36/12) residual, 0.007 MF and selling price of (31,333 - 2,500 - 1,750 = 27,083 + 595 for the acquisition fee.
With 8.875% tax in NY, I compute a payment of around 265 / mo with tax.
Sounds too good to be true. Could you check my numbers pls? Thanks!
Honestly did not get into the sell price since the payment ultimately (total cost of the lease) is what I care about and have no plans to buy out at end of the lease
Pretty strong deal.
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I hesitate to say, because an on-line price that you read on a webpage is not an actual offer from the dealership.
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2.4 base
2.4 with tech.
Thanks
$1500 lease cash on base, $2000 on tech.
$500 bonus lease cash.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
How much more should a v6 AWD tech be than an i4 tech?
We don't track selling prices; use the "make / model / year" pull downs at the top of the page to link to the price tools.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
AWD ADV MSRP: $45,740. Adjusted cap cost: $39-40k
thanks in advance.
AWD ADV MSRP: $45,740. Adjusted cap cost: $39-40k
thanks in advance.
Residuals, money factor and lease cash are all the same, for both I4 and V6.
So, assuming comparable percentage discounts from MSRP, the lease payments should increase in a relative manner, as well.
So, if the I4 is $36690 MSRP and the V6 is $42540, then the V6 payment should be around 1.16 X the payment of the I4, all else being equal.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
1. With the new 2017 on the lots, I have two questions: 1a: what is that doing to the prices of the 2016, because looking at the dealers' webpages, I'm seeing the same price for 2016 as 2017. 1b: from a leasing perspective, is it smart to get into a 2016 where there is presumably more room for negotiations and (I assume) bigger rebates, but where I'm driving off with a 1 year old car, or is it worth getting the 2017 now and pay a little more knowing that it will be worth a higher residual in 3 years since it will be a 2017 in 2019 calendar year rather than a 2016 in 2019 calendar year.
2. It seems that the residual value is decreased for higher level trims, but I'm a gadget guy. I always want everything they can throw at me (considering the Optima SXL for that reason if I don't get a TLX). Can someone tell me an approximation of what this means in real world dollars versus getting the lower end model with less features? I know that there is a formula to do this, but I'm terrible with formulas and get lost and frustrated. Take the TLX: base is about 32000 sticker and tech is about 36000 for the 2.4L. From what I've read, the higher trim will depreciate more, resulting in less than 4k difference in price at the end of 3 years, but what does that look like in real life. Or the Optima SXL which stickers at 37000 vs EX with tech package at 28000. I really want the SXL but that is 9k difference. How much of that 9k difference am I eating up over the course of the lease? That number will help me decide on a more rational level how much I need the navigation in the TLX or surround view camera in the Optima. (obviously, I would have to negotiate these prices down a lot from MSRP, but I'm just looking for comparison advice and these numbers can serve as guides).
3. how do you negotiate down with the salesman without getting them to include the rebates in their plans? I want to negotiate a price down and then add the current rebates to that price.
Assuming that I can get 15% off the MSRP for that tech TLX (36*.85 = 30,600) plus fees and taxes, so say 32k, I would get a 36 month / 12k or 10k miles deal. My credit score is just under 700, so I think I should get pretty good MF. What does that make the residual and monthly payments in this scenario? Thanks for helping point a noob in the right direction.
1a. At the moment, great deals are to be had on the outgoing 2016's, as 2017's are starting to hit the lots. And, in some cases, the residual values on the 16s are higher to help move the inventory
1b. Yes, better to get into a 16, especially if the residual is higher
2. In general, the residual is lower for a higher trim level - for the TLX, the difference is 2% over 36 months. For the Optima, the difference in residual is also 2% for the EX vs. the SXL. Coupled with the higher MSRP, that will make a big difference in the monthly payment.
3. It's not easy; I don't have any specific advise other than to include any lease cash into your offer - rest assured, that's what the dealer will do
If your credit score is under 700, you may not qualify for the top tier money factor from either Acura or Kia.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Pereau,
RE: "3. how do you negotiate down with the salesman without getting them to include the rebates in their plans? I want to negotiate a price down and then add the current rebates to that price."
I've posted this before but the easiest, mess free way to shop a lease is to ask for the dealers "best 36 month/12k miles/yr with $0 total due at signing for stock #xxxx" [or VIN#, or a particular model w/specified options exactly e.g., '2016 TLX with Tech, MSRP $35,555']. "Please note if your quote includes any REBATES or if there are any REBATES available for this car that are not applied to the price. I am not a current Acura owner, I am not miltary or college grad." " I have Tier 1 or 2 credit, but not Exceleent about 720"
Be very specific and ignore any noise coming in return (such as 'are you trading in?, when can you test drive?') that does not give you a $0 down, $0 due at signing quote or ask about qualifying for a certain rebate, such as conquest. You may have to ask twice to get your numbers. When you get a quote just chop off about $45 off the monthly since that what you $1750 Edmunds Insider Deal will work out to divided by 36 months.
On a side note, do you really want the tech package? If you can't plug numbers into formula, then you probably can't use the navigation. You need to give formulas another chance. It's easier than a dinner recipe. You just put in some figures and click calculate. You don't have to do any math-the computer does it for you.
Happy Hunting.
"On a side note, do you really want the tech package? If you can't plug numbers into formula, then you probably can't use the navigation. You need to give formulas another chance. It's easier than a dinner recipe. You just put in some figures and click calculate. You don't have to do any math-the computer does it for you. Happy Hunting."
Ohhhhhhh SNAP! shots fired!