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Comments
Pure One is made by Purolator who makes the Purolator Premium Brand and the Pure One brand. Found at many chain auto stores. Mobil 1 a great filter, most expensive of the lot and also found at several chains. AC Delco Gold series is excellent and Amsoil/Hastings/Baldwin but found via dealers only.
http://www.acdelco.com/parts/1191d.htm
The only problem is its availability for the newer models.
"Thank you for your interest in ACDelco. In regards to your inquiry, ACDelco does not manufacture an ULTRAGUARD GOLD Oil Filter for any 2000 vehicle at this time. We should have additional information, as well as a new catalog sometime this fall. We apologize for the inconvenience."
Sure enough it's not available for my 2000 model.
Mobil 1 - at Kmart,
Pure One - at Pep boys.
Motorcraft (same filtering media as in Pure One) - at Walmart.
Cut one open and then cut open a Mobil 1
I did use a Mobil 1 once, but had a devil of a time removing it, since it has a smooth end and the only way to get filters off on my car is to use a tool that grasps the filter on the end. Any suggestions for a wrench that will get those off?
My vehicle is a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban.
My oil temperature gauge has a range from 40 degrees to two hundred. Are we measuring in
Fahrenheit or Celsius?
My Water temperature gauge has a range over 200 degrees. I ask again, are we measuring in Fahrenheit or Celsius? Help!!
http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm
the San Joe, California. Any ideas?
http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.htm
http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/filters/index.htm I paid $8 for the tool.
It takes some time for the pictures of the wrench to load.
Newcar31 in theory if you put the filter on hand tight it should be able to be removed by hand. But that's only theory. It doesn't always hold true. Especially those put on and the gasket lubricated with conventional oil. Those lubricated with syn come off easier. All of them require more effort to get off than origionally put on.
Of course there are circumstances such as mounting location and the careless lube guy that torqued down the filter to 100 ft-lbs. The most extreme I was ever forced to get was with a filter on a 1977 Chevy Silverado. The truck had been used only a dozen times a year, so I had gone two years without changing the oil (gasp!). I tried for two hours to get this filter off. Band wrenches, cap wrenches, "the screwdriver." I only managed to tear up the casing and get oil on myself. Finally, I stuck the end-cap filter wrench to the filter and drilled three small holes through the wrench cap and the filter casing. Three self-tapping screws and a bit of elbow grease and it finally broke free. Just a story.
Reason 1: (probably the best one)
You are supposed to change oil with the engine hot. I need the skin on my hands.
Reason 2:
Some filters stick, regardless of installation technique.
Reason 3:
You go ahead and hand tighten according to directions if you want to. I prefer an extra 1/8 turn either with a wrench or a really strong hand twist, ignoring the directions, to assure I won't get a leak later; thus I'll need a wrench to remove the filter. Also, although they advise to tighten an additional 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the surface, many aren't marked so that 3/4 turn is easy to judge. Even if they are, it is a matter of feel to tell when the gasket has made contact.
Reason 4:
Not all filters are in an accessible place where you can get leverage with your hand.
If all the mfrs used the sandpaper-like coating on the end like Fram does, wrenches might not be necessary. Unfortunately, some filters, like the Mobil 1, are round, slick, and don't lend themselves to getting a good grip.
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Martin
For that matter, why listen to the reccomendation for how much oil to add - if 4 quarts is reccomended why not add five - after all more is better. ;^)
And in the interest of overdisecting the filter tightening. Although I haven't done thousands of changes, probably only a couple hundred. I only ever had one leak-don't know why. I never tighten more than one turn. I always put a permanent magic marker or two on the filter so that I can accurately gage the 3/4 to one turn. Always use a clean filter to feel over the sealing area of the housing just before screwing filter on. I supposed I need a wrench for removal because my arm/wrist strength is not too swift.
I had the car inspected today. My high speed CO2 was 0.00, the Idle CO2 was 0.04. The the Ultra clean California Standard is 0.05. The hydrocarbon level was 21 at 50 MPH, and 62 at idle. The inspector said that most NEW cars aren't that clean.
I have NEVER had readings so good on this 10 year car.
I wish I was in your area to buy it at the price you mentioned.
I have never purchased an Amsoil product so I am anxious to see what kind of results I am going to get-if any.
Has anyone on this board use Amsoil 5W-20?
What I did was take one qt to the scanners they have throughout the store and check the price there. I kept doing this over a couple weeks and it was always $1. I am almost ashamed to admit but I have bought about 30 qts. I figured synth would be fine sitting around a garage for that much savings. BTW-the cases are not cheap, just single bottles, so you may have to clean off the shelf and open some boxes.
Consider that if they weren't needed, no wrenches would be sold. I've been working on cars for 50 years, so I know what works for me. Although I've never had a filter leak due to hand tightening I have known more than one person who has. (I may have misled in my first message; I DO hand tighten IF I have can get at the filter well enough to see and feel what I'm doing, not always the case), In most cases, however, I prefer the insurance of just a little more torque on the filter. Problem is, some people think a little extra nudge with a wrench means crank it down. I've certainly had that experience on the rare occasion when I've had to have an oil change done for me, in one case having to chisel the filter off. If you're thinking of that kind of wrench usage, I can understand your trepidation.
This is probably the only installation procedure where I go beyond the recommendation. I hope you guys always torque your lug nuts, manifold bolts, thermostat housing bolts, etc according to specs. If you are a stickler for this and have much experience, you will admit there are many times the specs can't be applied because you can't get a torque wrench in the space provided.
I've had a filter loosen up slightly on me twice but that's easily fixed with another tightening-check by hand. No big deal.
It was good to see that Lisle site. They make EXCELLENT, useful tools and like most of you, I was introduced to them via their first-class oil filter wrenches. If you are looking for a particular type of tool and you see that Lisle makes one, THAT's the one you want! Plenty of independent jobbers carry these on spinner racks (as previously noted). I have a few K-D tools (like end-cap wrenches) that work well but Lisle are my fave.
Yes, Quaker-State synthetic is really good stuff. It's PAO so it's in the same league as Mobil 1 and Valvoline Synpower. At $1 per quart, it's an absolute STEAL. Even the "blend" is a good deal at that price.
--- Bror Jace
are tops also.
"Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30 can be used anywhere an SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 5W, 10W, 20W, 20 or 30 grade viscosity is recommended"
My owner's manual says 5w is recommended, but 10w can be used. Will the 10w30 give better protection? We do almost 100% city driving.
Therefore not much enhancement from 5w to 10w both wll protect in the winter months
I have a concern. I just bought a '98 BMW 528i with 24,000 miles. It has been maintained at a BMW dealer and they have been using 15W40 oil (not synthetic). I took it my BMW dealer (which is different than the one that has performed all the service on it) for several different things including an inspection II, and to my surprise they had used 5W30 Synthetic oil. The car is 3 1/2 years and I am concerned that this was done by mistake. I talked briefly with the service advisor and he mentioned that synthetic is much better for the engine. I could go somewhere between 12,000 to 15,000 miles or until the light indicators comes on before the next oil change. I thought once you use regular oil you shouldn't switch to synthetics unless something was done (i.e. flush?). Especially after 3 1/2 years and 24,000 miles. Do I have anything to be concerned about?
Please help, any advice or input is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Spyderred