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Hello Everyone, I'm new to this forum. I have had nothing but problems with my 2006 Chevy Colorado as well, from waiting the 10-20 minutes to start up, it also has a kill switch which I HATE! I'm currently having electric problems, and problems go on, does anyone know if these trucks are in recall or is there a GM customer service on this thread that can help me with more accurate info, it's getting really frustrating, I keep taking it to the mechanic and it just keeps getting worst, HELP PLEASE!!!!! my email address is gloriajarredondo@gmail.com
Gloria, All of my '04 Canyon various electrical problems were resolved when I replaced the very expensive and very inadequate original battery with a much larger Group 65-850 battery from Costco. It is way too big to fit in the factory enclosed case but fits perfectly on the base and in the original position. Since I installed it on 5-30-09 I have only replaced 2 light bulbs! Zero electric problems. The truck has been used hard for over 150,000 miles including lots of towing trailers up to 4,500# up very steep mountains so they can be decent trucks. No serious mechanical repairs ever. See my previous post #695. Russ
Hello, I took my chevy colorado in to victory chevrolet dealership in petaluma california at 70000 miles right after buying it from the dealership with cracked manifold-they replaced it and the head through GM,is there a 100,000 mile warranty after that from GM? it just cracked again,i took it to a pep boys repair station-they inspected it and found that the only chrome bolt had backed off,i am now looking at another replacement at 167000 miles,Pep Boys said it cracked because the new bolt backed off,can you help
So, if I had known then what I know now..... I guess I should kiss the ground and thank the Lord. I have an 05 Ext. cab Colorado z71 4wd. Everyone who sees it thinks it's brand new they don't believe it's an 05. A point I am proud of. 6 years ago (approx.) I picked up a tap in the engine. I continued to drive it until 8 March 2014. My "poor baby" suffered a myocardial infarction and it was unable to be resuscitated. sniff The number 3 cylinder is out. So I now have a beautiful well kept truck with no engine. Well the engine's still in it but you get the idea. I have 199,000 miles on this truck. I replaced the starter a few years ago, replaced the front brake pads (they didn't need it and rotors were fine) at 101,000, replaced the rear brake pads last year (they didn't need it) and replaced the right front hub assembly the end of January 2014. It was a good truck for me. I had considered putting a used engine in it but after reading all these horror stories I don't want to spend the money on an engine that seems to be extremely unreliable. What do y'all think?
I doubt anyone will see this but I'm fed up. Have a 04 Canyon 2.8. Bought it from my dad. He's not very mechanical. He started having a rough idle engine shakes real bad at 55k had it in the shops no one could figure it out. Well I took it from him 2 years ago it has 116 k on it now and still does it if not worse I've had it at the dealerships local shops. No codes are kicked but it all not right engine shakes so much the front grill squeals and everything else. Steering will vibrates like crazy. I've done everything I can think But as I read all the posts on different sites I've read about head issues and valve seats wrong. And I guess because my dad didn't know about the recalls ect now the truck will never get fix correct. I use to love gm chevy. But after this I don't know if I will ever go that way again. I will make sure everyone knows about this. I don't think it's right. I can't keep dropping money for no answers. And the thing is I know gm knows what the problem is. I've read to many posts about the same thing and no one having an answer to fix this problem. If anyone has any idea I would greatly appreciate it. I've done everything u would expect tune up throttle body clean clean maf senseor checked camshaft I've dropped a lot of money in to this truck cause it was my dads and I wanna keep it. And I'm getting no where with this problem. The way this truck has been maintained before I got it and since I got it there is no reason I shouldn't get another 80 k out of it but whatever is causing this engine shake at idle is causing problems. Gas mileage sucks lights keep going out cause of the shaking I'm sick of paying dealerships and shops to diagnose and come back with no answers. Or answers that it's going to cost a grand to check this and this ect but no promise that's the problem. Ugg. Gm is covering something up with these 04 inline 4s. If a recall is done it dosnt matter how old the truck is if it didn't get done it should get done no matter the age of the truck. Not everybody is notified about them till its to late
You might go to this WEBSITE and click on "repair shops". If there's one in your area you can be sure that the technician there is very well trained to figure this out. Sounds like too much guessing and not enough fixing has been going on with your truck. A cylinder leakdown test and a thorough scanning of all real-time data should reveal the possible cause for the engine shake.
I have a 2010 Colorado with a 2.9L that throws a P0013 code and sounds like a diesel at an idle. I replaced the exhaust cam sensor , vat actuator , changed the oil , and reset the codes. it runs great until the second time you start it then it's right back to noisy idle. first start after reset you can drive for hours and it runs great at all speeds including idle... just don't shut it off. any ideas?
Having read all 24 pages of this post I offer my sympathy to my fellow Colorado owners. GM has really laid an egg with this one. I purchased my 4wd Colorado new in 2008 with the 2.9 and 5 speed. It now has only 40,000 miles and is already starting with the problems outlined here, the worst of which is the dreaded P0017. I have changed the vvt solenoid, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor but the code still persists. I therefore conclude the timing chain is stretched and/or the cam advance/retard sprocket is bad. There are videos on youtube showing how to replace these and every body who has done one says the best way is to pull the engine. If you want to change the balance shaft chain and tensioner the engine has to come out anyway since that chain is in the back. This is totally unacceptable for a vehicle with 40,000 miles that has had good maintenance. This engine has always had a lean surge even under full throttle acceleration. I even entertained the idea of putting two side draft webers on it, but seeing all the basic design flaws I now am abandoning any idea of improving it. Next question is what other engine would bolt up to my 5 speed and transfer case. I would dearly love to have a 327-300 horse under my hood instead of this 2.9 boat anchor. I know they built a few 5.3 trucks but they were all automatics. Are the 5.3 and 2.9 the same bellhousing pattern? Is the 5.3 crank drilled for a pilot bushing? We don't have emission inspections in my county so I'm not worried about that. Does anybody have any other suggestions for an engine swap? I have done swaps in the past so I'm not afraid to tackle the cutting and welding but would like to keep it to a minimum. BTW: I also have a P0411, P2430, P2431...all related to "secondary air flow." Who knows what the next code will be. Shoulda bought the Tacoma.
Having read all 24 pages of this post I offer my sympathy to my fellow Colorado owners. GM has really laid an egg with this one. I purchased my 4wd Colorado new in 2008 with the 2.9 and 5 speed. It now has only 40,000 miles and is already starting with the problems outlined here, the worst of which is the dreaded P0017.
So it's going on ten years old and only 40,000 miles. Does this idle a lot putting time on it but not distance?
P0017 means that the PCM is seeing the synchronization of the camshaft and camshaft sensors fall out of tolerance. The possible reasons for that code are pretty straight forward but essentially the system turns the variable valve timing on and unlocks the camshaft from it's "0" position and then when the cam starts to fall retarded it cannot be advanced to the desired position.
I have changed the vvt solenoid, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor but the code still persists. I therefore conclude the timing chain is stretched and/or the cam advance/retard sprocket is bad.
What code(s) set if you turn the truck off for at least ten minutes and disconnect the VVT solenoid and then restart ? You should get a P0013 of course but are any others generated?
As far as throwing the sensors at it a P0016 is NOT caused by a failing sensor. The computer looks at the signals from the crank and cam sensors and constantly judges the quality of the signal that they generate. A flawed sensor signal results in a code related to that sensor, not a valve timing system performance code.
Replacing the VVT solenoid would be a plausible step if you don't have any other way to test the system. Proper testing would have you capturing the scan data in a snap shot while monitoring the VVT actuator command along with the cam and crank sensor signals on an oscilloscope.
There are videos on youtube showing how to replace these and every body who has done one says the best way is to pull the engine. If you want to change the balance shaft chain and tensioner the engine has to come out anyway since that chain is in the back. This is totally unacceptable for a vehicle with 40,000 miles that has had good maintenance.
Could you expand on how you maintained the vehicle. What was the mileage and time between services? What engine oil did you use, please be specific.
This engine has always had a lean surge even under full throttle acceleration. I even entertained the idea of putting two side draft webers on it, but seeing all the basic design flaws I now am abandoning any idea of improving it.
That engine will run plenty rich on full acceleration, so long as everything is working correctly. If it has a lean air/fuel ratio it is pretty straight forward to test and prove why and then fix the problem. Besides, hacking in a set of Webbers would make the vehicle worse to drive, not better.
Next question is what other engine would bolt up to my 5 speed and transfer case. I would dearly love to have a 327-300 horse under my hood instead of this 2.9 boat anchor. I know they built a few 5.3 trucks but they were all automatics. Are the 5.3 and 2.9 the same bellhousing pattern? Is the 5.3 crank drilled for a pilot bushing? We don't have emission inspections in my county so I'm not worried about that.
Actually you do, OBDII isn't a diagnostic system, it is an emissions program designed into the vehicle, you just don't have regulated program and your truck s failing that test which is why the light is coming on.
Does anybody have any other suggestions for an engine swap? I have done swaps in the past so I'm not afraid to tackle the cutting and welding but would like to keep it to a minimum.
The task of transplanting an engine with something other than what was in there isn't practical. That isn't saying that it cannot be done but mismatched components and software will make doing it extremely difficult unless you can pull all of the required components from a donor car and have custom software written to correct vehicle identification number mismatches.
BTW: I also have a P0411, P2430, P2431...all related to "secondary air flow." Who knows what the next code will be. Shoulda bought the Tacoma.
Related to the Secondary AIR system is true, however the P2430 and P2431 are specific to the voltage signal seen at the PCM from the secondary air pressure sensor and can be caused by a circuit issue, a failing sensor, exhaust restriction or a bad/failing secondary air control valve. What do you see reported in scan data when the system is commanded to run using either bi-directional controls or running the forced system test? What do you see when the system is not commanded on? Do you hear the air pump run when using bi-directional control inputs? When measuring the pressure sensor signal, reference voltage and ground, do the voltages fall inside the expected ranges and does the signal voltage match what is displayed in scan data?
Thanks for your response but I fail to see a reason to throw additional diagnostic time and parts money at this engine when the next 40k mi is just likely to see the valve seats falling out of the head. What I want is a reliable engine with a carburetor. Chevy makes LS components to use conventional distributors and carbs with those engines, my friend has one in his 55 Chevy, but it would be a ton cheaper to use a 350 if it would bolt up to the Colorado trans. The PCM can go to the bone yard along with the elcrapo engine attached to it. To answer your question, no it has never idled for long periods. My annual mileage is spread between 3 vehicles so none of them get many miles. I have never seen the change oil warning on the dash of the Colorado. It gets done around 3-4k, and a new filter every time. I use WalMart super tech 5-30 oil. So can you help answer my question, what will bolt up to either my bellhousing or my trans?
I think you'd have to swap out the tranmission as well, as that's computer-controlled as well. So you'll have to deal with trans mounts, engine mounts and altering the driveshaft,too. And I"m not sure what your ABS is going to think about all this, or how to get your speedometer and gauges to work.
Most hot rods you see have gutted the entire vehicle.
You'd be much better off getting a reman engine and keeping your truck stock otherwise.
Thanks for your response but I fail to see a reason to throw additional diagnostic time and parts money at this engine when the next 40k mi is just likely to see the valve seats falling out of the head.
That's one of the reasons that a remanufactured engine would be a wise choice.
What I want is a reliable engine with a carburetor. Chevy makes LS components to use conventional distributors and carbs with those engines, my friend has one in his 55 Chevy, but it would be a ton cheaper to use a 350 if it would bolt up to the Colorado trans. The PCM can go to the bone yard along with the elcrapo engine attached to it.
The Colorado uses the ATLAS "Atlas family engines use a unique bellhousing pattern which no other GM motors share."
So what are you going to do with the instrument cluster, the radio, the ABS system and the body computer? (BTW is this 4WD? If so add the transfer case and controller to that list) Unfortunately along with the PCM these other components create virtual systems that simply won't operate correctly if at all if one of the portions of the system (the PCM) is missing.
To answer your question, no it has never idled for long periods. My annual mileage is spread between 3 vehicles so none of them get many miles. I have never seen the change oil warning on the dash of the Colorado. It gets done around 3-4k, and a new filter every time. I use WalMart super tech 5-30 oil.
Your Colorado needed an oil approved for GM's 6094M specification which in 2011 was superseded by the dexos1 specification. As you can see by the labeling it states suitable for, but that doesn't equal meets the specifications in fact it falls short of the specification based on the testing that was done in 2013. We have no way to know how far off of the spec the oil was before that date. The majority of the failures that we have seen are due to the use of engine oils that actually didn't meet the vehicle specifications.
So can you help answer my question, what will bolt up to either my bellhousing or my trans?
No and that's because it is far easier to repair it correctly than it is to deal with all of the other systems that would also be impacted by attempting the swap. FWIW, it's not that I couldn't do if I chose to try I just have much better things to do with my time since I know how much work would go into completing the project beyond just slamming an engine and a complete manual driveline in.
Wow, a reman engine every 40k...I don't think so. My trans is a manual 5 speed. No computer control required. Thanks for the link to the bellhousing patterns. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy to see the Atlas is a unique pattern but at least now I know. That led me to transmission links and I find my truck is an Aisin AR5, or some say MA5. There are a ton of possibilities for hooking it to other engines. http://web.archive.org/web/20130527131749/http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740 First I will try a motor flush and change to the GM spec oil as you recommend.
A reman is still your best bet here. You'll spend more on an engine swap and get less in performance and fuel economy for it IMO, even if you figure out all the electronics. Besides, it's totally illegal, although unless your state has smog inspections you may not get caught.
Wow, a reman engine every 40k...I don't think so. My trans is a manual 5 speed. No computer control required. Thanks for the link to the bellhousing patterns. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy to see the Atlas is a unique pattern but at least now I know. That led me to transmission links and I find my truck is an Aisin AR5, or some say MA5. There are a ton of possibilities for hooking it to other engines. http://web.archive.org/web/20130527131749/http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740 First I will try a motor flush and change to the GM spec oil as you recommend.
Woah, try testing as I described first. Disconnect the VVT solenoid and start the truck. P0013 should set with the circuit fault unless you still have the original solenoid which you could plug in as a dummy load. See what code sets with the VVT disabled.
Do not attempt the motor flush. Any debris that has gotten into the actuator will be slung to the outside of the assembly away from the bleed port in the center. There is no way to get it out short of removal and disassembly which really means you are replacing it.
I see somebody on here had problems with water in the cab. You probably had the same issue I had, there was an 1/8 inch gap between the cargo light and the body! When it rained water poured it. I removed the light, rolled a rope of dum-dum for around it and reinstalled it. Problem solved. Unbelievable GM would do such a thing. It's like they want the floor to rust out so they can sell you a new truck. Same with the frame. It's a full box frame which is very strong and good. Only thing is they didn't put any drain holes in the bottom, only holes in the middle of the sides. So guess what...water comes in thru the holes in the sides and lays in the bottom half of the frame. I was doing something else under the truck with air and I noticed water coming out when I shot air into the frame openings. Got to checking and found the frame laying half full of water. I cut triangular holes in the inside of the frame rails and you can't believe what I took out. (After I dried it.) Pieces of rust scale as big as the palm of your hand! Got it all scraped out and sprayed Fluid Film in there so it's protected now. I'm just appalled at the amount of bare metal I found under that truck. Thought I had it all rust proofed but never dreamed the inside of the frame would rust away. Check yours before it's too late.
OK that's good. By forcing a different code to set we are gaining insight to the failure. As you read the following keep in mind that I am going to reference serial data and especially the camshaft timing which is in degrees, positive value. While the data is stated as a positive value the camshaft actually retarding. So "0" is advanced and +20 is twenty degrees of retard. A P0014 means that the camshaft timing measured is at least 4 degrees off from the desired angle. It could of course it could be more.
How long did the truck sit before you fired it up? The camshaft timing should not have been able to move so long as the lock pin in the actuator had engaged.
Without data showing us the desired. actual and delta I don't have every detail that I need to pinpoint the issue but where we are right now has three plausible paths.
The first one is the pin did engage and the actuator remained at the "0" position. If that is what happened the scan data likely showed the actual cam timing as 4 degrees or higher without any other movement and you have a stretched timing chain.
The second one is the actuator never advanced back to the "0" position and could be stuck due to debris. Without PCM input via the solenoid the cam timing would retard to the maximum that it could be moved and scan data would have displayed something higher than 2 degrees at start-up and would have increased to something fifteen degrees or higher.
The third possibility is wear in the cylinder head journal. When the journal wears it can allow lubrication oil to bleed into the actuator port and falsely command the camshaft to move. That's the toughest one of all to prove which is why it is last on the list.
Can you get the scan data showing the cam timing from start-up?
The truck had been sitting overnight when I did the test with the dummy sol. It took 4-5 drive cycles to get the code 14 to set. My friend has a Genesis, would that give the scan data?
It might. The cheaper level professional tools often have holes in the data ad it all depends on exactly what pids and controls they chose to leave out.
It can be done with a digital oscilloscope, but you are going to also need a known good waveform showing a 0 degrees reference capture to compare it to. The variance we are talking about will only be a few milliseconds at idle and in the microsecond range at higher speeds.
I was thinking, you got the code to set after driving it four or five times with the dummy load in place. That means the cam didn't lock at "0" and if the chain was stretched badly it really should have coded on the second start-up. I believe you are looking at an actuator that has debris in it as the most likely cause, just remember that debris could be material worn from the camshaft journal in the head. Try to get the scan data.
Camshaft Angle Desired Camshaft Angle Actual Variance or Delta
Got my buddy's Genisys but it only goes up to 2006 and just gets a communication error when I try to get data on my 2008. So I plugged in the sol, cleared the codes and did 7 drive cycles and no codes yet. Not sure what to make of that. Guess I'll change to the Dexos 1 oil and see what happens.
Changed to Dexos 1 oil and Fram Tough Guard filter The oil had less than 3k miles on it but did look rather dirty. Two more drive cycles and no codes yet. Removed the secondary air valve, disassembled and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Got lots of carbon out of there! Lubed with Areo-kroil. Only one intermittent code left from that. If the valve won't free up I'll get one from rockauto.com for $152. They also have the timing chain, balance chain, and all associated tensioners and guides for around $300. Means pulling the engine but once the hood is off it's not that hard. It's a bunch cheaper than a reman engine.
They also have the timing chain, balance chain, and all associated tensioners and guides for around $300. Means pulling the engine but once the hood is off it's not that hard. It's a bunch cheaper than a reman engine.
And infinitely easier than trying to do a transplant.
I also have a lot of problems with the body control module. Is there a way to reprogram these? At night the dome light comes on when I pull the key out then goes out after about 20 seconds. Then there is no way to make it come back on. Some times it won't come on at all. Cargo light is the same way. Seems if you are within a block of a street light the cargo light won't come on. Is there a way to trick the module into thinking it's dark all the time so the dome light will always come on and stay on?
No. The "programming" like controlling interior light delay are user personality settings which should be described in the owners manual. Suffice it to say that not all cars are created equal and you may or may not find very many settings that you can alter.
To get the chain/actuator off you have to pull the front cover. To get the front cover off you have to pull the oil pan. To pull the oil pan you have to drop the crossmember and the front axle (4wd). It's just easier to pull the engine from my research. Once the engine is out you can use the zip gun on it and things go quite quickly. Beats laying on your back struggling with every fastener. Besides, I would want to replace the balance shaft chain and tensioner at the same time and it's in the back requiring you to either pull the engine or pull the trans/transfer. Engine looks easier to me.
The book quotes these times for the following operations.(RWD is rear wheel drive, 4WD is four wheel drive)
Exhaust Camshaft 6.1 hours 4.9 Hours Warranty
Actuator 5.8 hours 4.6 hours Warranty
Timing chain and guides which includes removing the oil pan. 17.3 hours 4WD 14.7 hours warranty 13.7 hours RWD 11.6 warranty
There are tools that hold the timing chain in place and tools to hold the camshafts in place that allow for the camshaft gears to be removed without disassembling the timing cover. There are even tools that once the camshaft gears are removed that can be installed will allow for removal of the cylinder head, without removing the front cover.
While the kit doesn't specify the 2.9I4 the chain tools are the same ones, and there are reasons to have both of the above tool kits. BTW, there is a different camshaft alignment tool that you have to add separately for the 2.9l. You should be glad you are doing this now and not ten years ago when there weren't as many options for purchasing tools like this. I lost money on the first three times that I did this repair just because of what the tools cost me. Today you can borrow or rent the tools in most areas.
That's a wealth of info there. Thanks! I changed the head gasket on a 240Z without pulling the chain one time. As I remember I used a long wood wedge to hold the tensioner in. So what is the flat rate time on pulling the engine? I'm sure the times quoted are for a GM shop with a hoist. I am working on jack stands and a creeper...BUT I do have a gantry and an air hoist. So you can see my leaning toward getting the engine out where I can put the air to it rather than working on my back. If I was sure the chain was not stretched I would replace the actuator sprocket w/o pulling the engine. But how can you tell that the chain is ok? Do you have a known good dimension over 5 rollers or something like that? If I have to buy a new chain to compare it to I might as well install it. And how about the balance shaft chain? Have you replaced any of them?
No balance shaft chains, the flat rate time is under six hours and it is done by pulling the transmission.
As far as the chain goes, once you have the camshaft alignment tools, pull the valve cover off and start setting the timing for removal. If the camshaft line up tool shows the cams in time with the crankshaft positioned (you may have to move the exhaust cam in the actuator) then the chain is fine.
Well I checked for codes today and the 17 is gone. Maybe the oil is working. Also made a tin plate to block off the secondary air valve so moisture wouldn't get to the air pump. I'll worry about both of these problems in the spring. Meanwhile I have rust-jacking on a wheel speed sensor giving me ABS faults and a back up camera to install. Also need TP sensors for my winter wheels. Do they make those in different PSI ranges? The factory ones needed over 30 PSI to satisfy them and that wore the center out of the tires.
So I see today my wheel speed sensors are different than the full size trucks and not subject to rust jacking. I cleaned around the axle and blew it out thinking maybe a bit of debris got on the tone wheel but it didn't help. My dash is starting to look like a Christmas tree.
My truck a Canyon 2004 crew cab sle 4x4 5 cylinder had been working fine till this early evening after I started it it started to miss and I gave it some gas and it seemed to quit so I drove across town to my daughter's home it seemed fine after spending about 3 hours there I left to go back home and the engine started to miss again a little worst than when it first started doing it. I had it in gear and gave it some gas it would seem to quit if your rpm was above 2000 but started again when it fell below that rpm I gave it gas let and off and gave it more as I was driving it.. the check engine light came on and started to blinking if I rev'd it past 2600 to 300o rpm and then let off the gas the check engine light would go off but would still be missing. Is this a throttle body problem or what?
So I bought a scan tool from Harbor Freight with ABS and it's telling me the right rear wheel speed sensor is bad. Search as I may I don't find a listing for wheel speed sensors in the rear. Does the rear ABS use the speed sensor on the transfer case? jarman51, I feel your pain. These trucks are very problematic. Wished I had bought the Toyota. Best I can tell you is check all your grounds first when you have a weird problem.
The rear wheel speed signal is generated by the sensor on the left rear of the transfer case and received by the transmission control module. From there it is sent digitally to the PCM and the PCM then sends the signal to the electronic brake control module.
Is the transmission shifting correctly? Is the speedometer reporting the vehicle speed?
Transmission is a manual 5sp, no shifting problems. Speedo is working and accurate. I find the S10 had both a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and a transfer case rear vehicle speed sensor. Are the Colorados like that? If so which one is for the ABS?
The codes are C0035, Rt. rear wheel speed sensor open or shorted. And U1064, Lost communications with body control module. Keep in mind I have the ABS2 relay unplugged so the ABS pump won't run.
Comments
All of my '04 Canyon various electrical problems were resolved when I replaced the very expensive and very inadequate original battery with a much larger Group 65-850 battery from Costco. It is way too big to fit in the factory enclosed case but fits perfectly on the base and in the original position. Since I installed it on 5-30-09 I have only replaced 2 light bulbs! Zero electric problems. The truck has been used hard for over 150,000 miles including lots of towing trailers up to 4,500# up very steep mountains so they can be decent trucks. No serious mechanical repairs ever. See my previous post #695.
Russ
I took my chevy colorado in to victory chevrolet dealership in petaluma california at 70000 miles right after buying it from the dealership with cracked manifold-they replaced it and the head through GM,is there a 100,000 mile warranty after that from GM? it just cracked again,i took it to a pep boys repair station-they inspected it and found that the only chrome bolt had backed off,i am now looking at another replacement at 167000 miles,Pep Boys said it cracked because the new bolt backed off,can you help
So, if I had known then what I know now..... I guess I should kiss the ground and thank the Lord. I have an 05 Ext. cab Colorado z71 4wd. Everyone who sees it thinks it's brand new they don't believe it's an 05. A point I am proud of. 6 years ago (approx.) I picked up a tap in the engine. I continued to drive it until 8 March 2014. My "poor baby" suffered a myocardial infarction and it was unable to be resuscitated. sniff The number 3 cylinder is out. So I now have a beautiful well kept truck with no engine. Well the engine's still in it but you get the idea. I have 199,000 miles on this truck. I replaced the starter a few years ago, replaced the front brake pads (they didn't need it and rotors were fine) at 101,000, replaced the rear brake pads last year (they didn't need it) and replaced the right front hub assembly the end of January 2014. It was a good truck for me. I had considered putting a used engine in it but after reading all these horror stories I don't want to spend the money on an engine that seems to be extremely unreliable. What do y'all think?
This engine has always had a lean surge even under full throttle acceleration. I even entertained the idea of putting two side draft webers on it, but seeing all the basic design flaws I now am abandoning any idea of improving it. Next question is what other engine would bolt up to my 5 speed and transfer case. I would dearly love to have a 327-300 horse under my hood instead of this 2.9 boat anchor. I know they built a few 5.3 trucks but they were all automatics. Are the 5.3 and 2.9 the same bellhousing pattern? Is the 5.3 crank drilled for a pilot bushing? We don't have emission inspections in my county so I'm not worried about that. Does anybody have any other suggestions for an engine swap? I have done swaps in the past so I'm not afraid to tackle the cutting and welding but would like to keep it to a minimum.
BTW: I also have a P0411, P2430, P2431...all related to "secondary air flow." Who knows what the next code will be. Shoulda bought the Tacoma.
P0017 means that the PCM is seeing the synchronization of the camshaft and camshaft sensors fall out of tolerance. The possible reasons for that code are pretty straight forward but essentially the system turns the variable valve timing on and unlocks the camshaft from it's "0" position and then when the cam starts to fall retarded it cannot be advanced to the desired position. What code(s) set if you turn the truck off for at least ten minutes and disconnect the VVT solenoid and then restart ? You should get a P0013 of course but are any others generated?
As far as throwing the sensors at it a P0016 is NOT caused by a failing sensor. The computer looks at the signals from the crank and cam sensors and constantly judges the quality of the signal that they generate. A flawed sensor signal results in a code related to that sensor, not a valve timing system performance code.
Replacing the VVT solenoid would be a plausible step if you don't have any other way to test the system. Proper testing would have you capturing the scan data in a snap shot while monitoring the VVT actuator command along with the cam and crank sensor signals on an oscilloscope. Could you expand on how you maintained the vehicle. What was the mileage and time between services? What engine oil did you use, please be specific.
That engine will run plenty rich on full acceleration, so long as everything is working correctly. If it has a lean air/fuel ratio it is pretty straight forward to test and prove why and then fix the problem. Besides, hacking in a set of Webbers would make the vehicle worse to drive, not better. Actually you do, OBDII isn't a diagnostic system, it is an emissions program designed into the vehicle, you just don't have regulated program and your truck s failing that test which is why the light is coming on. The task of transplanting an engine with something other than what was in there isn't practical. That isn't saying that it cannot be done but mismatched components and software will make doing it extremely difficult unless you can pull all of the required components from a donor car and have custom software written to correct vehicle identification number mismatches. Related to the Secondary AIR system is true, however the P2430 and P2431 are specific to the voltage signal seen at the PCM from the secondary air pressure sensor and can be caused by a circuit issue, a failing sensor, exhaust restriction or a bad/failing secondary air control valve. What do you see reported in scan data when the system is commanded to run using either bi-directional controls or running the forced system test? What do you see when the system is not commanded on? Do you hear the air pump run when using bi-directional control inputs? When measuring the pressure sensor signal, reference voltage and ground, do the voltages fall inside the expected ranges and does the signal voltage match what is displayed in scan data?
To answer your question, no it has never idled for long periods. My annual mileage is spread between 3 vehicles so none of them get many miles. I have never seen the change oil warning on the dash of the Colorado. It gets done around 3-4k, and a new filter every time. I use WalMart super tech 5-30 oil.
So can you help answer my question, what will bolt up to either my bellhousing or my trans?
Most hot rods you see have gutted the entire vehicle.
You'd be much better off getting a reman engine and keeping your truck stock otherwise.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_GM_bellhousing_patterns
The Colorado uses the ATLAS "Atlas family engines use a unique bellhousing pattern which no other GM motors share."
So what are you going to do with the instrument cluster, the radio, the ABS system and the body computer? (BTW is this 4WD? If so add the transfer case and controller to that list)
Unfortunately along with the PCM these other components create virtual systems that simply won't operate correctly if at all if one of the portions of the system (the PCM) is missing. About that Walmart oil.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/supertech.htm
Your Colorado needed an oil approved for GM's 6094M specification which in 2011 was superseded by the dexos1 specification. As you can see by the labeling it states suitable for, but that doesn't equal meets the specifications in fact it falls short of the specification based on the testing that was done in 2013. We have no way to know how far off of the spec the oil was before that date. The majority of the failures that we have seen are due to the use of engine oils that actually didn't meet the vehicle specifications. No and that's because it is far easier to repair it correctly than it is to deal with all of the other systems that would also be impacted by attempting the swap. FWIW, it's not that I couldn't do if I chose to try I just have much better things to do with my time since I know how much work would go into completing the project beyond just slamming an engine and a complete manual driveline in.
Thanks for the link to the bellhousing patterns. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy to see the Atlas is a unique pattern but at least now I know. That led me to transmission links and I find my truck is an Aisin AR5, or some say MA5. There are a ton of possibilities for hooking it to other engines.
http://web.archive.org/web/20130527131749/http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740
First I will try a motor flush and change to the GM spec oil as you recommend.
Do not attempt the motor flush. Any debris that has gotten into the actuator will be slung to the outside of the assembly away from the bleed port in the center. There is no way to get it out short of removal and disassembly which really means you are replacing it.
How long did the truck sit before you fired it up? The camshaft timing should not have been able to move so long as the lock pin in the actuator had engaged.
Without data showing us the desired. actual and delta I don't have every detail that I need to pinpoint the issue but where we are right now has three plausible paths.
The first one is the pin did engage and the actuator remained at the "0" position. If that is what happened the scan data likely showed the actual cam timing as 4 degrees or higher without any other movement and you have a stretched timing chain.
The second one is the actuator never advanced back to the "0" position and could be stuck due to debris. Without PCM input via the solenoid the cam timing would retard to the maximum that it could be moved and scan data would have displayed something higher than 2 degrees at start-up and would have increased to something fifteen degrees or higher.
The third possibility is wear in the cylinder head journal. When the journal wears it can allow lubrication oil to bleed into the actuator port and falsely command the camshaft to move. That's the toughest one of all to prove which is why it is last on the list.
Can you get the scan data showing the cam timing from start-up?
I was thinking, you got the code to set after driving it four or five times with the dummy load in place. That means the cam didn't lock at "0" and if the chain was stretched badly it really should have coded on the second start-up. I believe you are looking at an actuator that has debris in it as the most likely cause, just remember that debris could be material worn from the camshaft journal in the head. Try to get the scan data.
Camshaft Angle Desired
Camshaft Angle Actual
Variance or Delta
The book quotes these times for the following operations.(RWD is rear wheel drive, 4WD is four wheel drive)
Exhaust Camshaft
6.1 hours 4.9 Hours Warranty
Actuator
5.8 hours 4.6 hours Warranty
Timing chain and guides which includes removing the oil pan.
17.3 hours 4WD 14.7 hours warranty
13.7 hours RWD 11.6 warranty
There are tools that hold the timing chain in place and tools to hold the camshafts in place that allow for the camshaft gears to be removed without disassembling the timing cover. There are even tools that once the camshaft gears are removed that can be installed will allow for removal of the cylinder head, without removing the front cover.
This is the "old way" to do the actuator. Note they have cover removed for clarity in practice it is not necessary unless you lose the chain tensioner. https://gm.oemdtc.com/1764/removalinstallation-of-llv-llr-cylinder-head-2007-chevrolet-gmc-hummer
The new way has hooks that engage the chain and wingnuts to hold the tension as seen in this tool kit.
https://www.centurytool.net/6688_OTC_GM_I_V_5_6_Cam_Tool_Set_p/otc6688.htm
Specifically J-44217
http://www.freedomracing.com/timing-chain-retention-tool-set-j-44217.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw95vPBRDVARIsAKvPd3KKcpcw02jmOF3lJ6JkwJkEYgvbq2WZx0XbqlVo9CgAV0HlZi9tZPAaArgsEALw_wcB
While the kit doesn't specify the 2.9I4 the chain tools are the same ones, and there are reasons to have both of the above tool kits. BTW, there is a different camshaft alignment tool that you have to add separately for the 2.9l. You should be glad you are doing this now and not ten years ago when there weren't as many options for purchasing tools like this. I lost money on the first three times that I did this repair just because of what the tools cost me. Today you can borrow or rent the tools in most areas.
As far as the chain goes, once you have the camshaft alignment tools, pull the valve cover off and start setting the timing for removal. If the camshaft line up tool shows the cams in time with the crankshaft positioned (you may have to move the exhaust cam in the actuator) then the chain is fine.
jarman51, I feel your pain. These trucks are very problematic. Wished I had bought the Toyota. Best I can tell you is check all your grounds first when you have a weird problem.
Is the transmission shifting correctly?
Is the speedometer reporting the vehicle speed?
Speedo is working and accurate.
I find the S10 had both a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and a transfer case rear vehicle speed sensor. Are the Colorados like that? If so which one is for the ABS?