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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Tvukelic", I've mentioned this in the past, but since you're looking to buy a truck soon, I'll mention it again. I have a 2005 Canyon Z-71 SLE 4x4. I realize that it has only 26,000 miles on it so far, but except for a failed switch that activates the interior lights when the door is opened, it has been trouble free.

    The other side of the coin is this....I take care of the truck! It's not a refrigerator, you plug it in and forget about till it stops running....

    I use the truck primarily for winter driving, so I wash it as frequently as possible in winter, especially the underside, to keep the road salt from accumulating. When I rotate the tires, I flush the front discs/calipers with clean water, and I pull the rear drums and rinse any accumulated salt from inside there, and blow dry with a leaf blower. I change the oil regularily. I use Red Line fuel system cleaner regularily to prevent carbon deposits.

    So far, it appears that my methods are working...If you and your wife like the truck, buy it!
  • My dad is looking for the 2004 Colorado Brochure available in dealer showrooms in 2004 (39 pages long). Does anyone still have one by chance? Bill 319/331-2624
  • Just happened to find this forum because I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with Colorados. My husband bought me a new 2006 Crew Cab that I absolutely loved body wise because I am 5'2". But we had nothing but trouble out of it since day one. It started out small, power windows messing up, etc, but then a month ago the cab filled with the smell of antifreeze. Turns out it was a leak in a heater coil. The dealership fixed it with no problem because it was still under warranty. But we could not get the anti freeze smell out of the cab. Well then, twice this week we had some major smoke come out of the exhaust when it was started. We hadn't read about all the problems with the heads on these trucks, but we figured we were getting ready to have a major problem and with only 1000 miles left on the warranty, we worried if we waited around too long we would be screwed. To make a long story short, we went today and traded for a 2009 Silverado. I was hesitant at first because of my size, but after driving it home, I absolutely love it!! I loved the size and look of my Colorado, but it just wasn't worth dealing with all the problems. My advice: DON'T BUY ONE!
  • texas914texas914 Posts: 1
    I have a 06 Colorado 4cylinder, I have had it for a couple of months and noticed when I run the A/C it smells very musty. Any solutions or experience with this. Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,870
    it's mold in the AC vents. You can find various sprays online or in stores that deal with this but in extreme cases you have to take the vents out and wash them, and sometimes dig into the heater core area as well.

    One good habit is to run the heater through the vents now and then to dry them out.

    I've heard that changing the cabin filter (if your vehicle has one) might help but I can't verify that one way or the other. Unless it proves to be moldy itself, I rather doubt it would help.

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  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    another prevension is to run AC on normal mode the last 10 min. or so if you are using the recirculate feature a lot.
  • My 2006 colorado has 145,000 miles on it and was running great until just yesterday I was driving it and it shut off on me and on the dash display it read reduced power and the key wasnt able to start it, but my remote starter would.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,870
    If you have a voltage drop during engine cranking, this may cause this very thing to happen.

    You should read the code set by the ECM. If it has anything to do with the throttle this is probably what happened.

    You should load test your battery or if it is the original, just replace it, reset the codes and see what happens. Don't replace any parts yet.

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  • derekdjderekdj Posts: 1
    i've had this same problem. with my 04 colorado i would use my key remote to unlock the doors but it wouldn't disengage my fuel lock on the engine so it would turn over just not fire up i've had to get my key remote reprogramed twice so far because of this problem and i have had to pay for them to get reprogramed. if i get the problem one more time which i feel will happen again because the last 2 times have been within the year so far im gonna try the lemon law thing
  • The problem with my truck was that the crank sensor was bad. After it got replaced everything good.
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    I have an '04 Canyon 2wd 5cyl 5mt with 112,000 miles. I have come to realize that most of the electrical issues with these trucks such as coils, blower resistors & blowers, switches, sensors, door electrical problems, lighting problems, idle speed, check engine, and some no start issues can all be caused by the high amperage flows that are created by low system voltages.
    There seems to be (my opinion) two main causes. First is the marginal capacity Delco battery. If you are willing to eliminate the battery enclosure a much larger 850cca group 65 battery (Costco $80.) will fit in the stock retainer system. If you don't idle for long periods with the blower on high or other unusual high electrical demand (at idle) a battery upgrade may be all that is required. If that isn't enough you could consider changing from the stock 100amp alternator to the upgraded 125amp alternator used on the 08-09 4&5cyl trucks which seems to have resolved all these problems. Remember that no alternator will provide much output at idle speed.
    Good Luck,
  • rtroy66rtroy66 Posts: 1
    I was in arkansas visiting family when my engine light came on this last saturday, June 06 and so I took it in on Monday the 8th and they told me that the problem was the engine was loosing compressing due to faulty seat. Well I travel a lot and at 150,000 miles they told me it was going to cost 2200 dollars to fix it. Couldn't I just put a new engine in the truck for a little bit more. I don't know, but I think this should have been covered in the recall regardless of mileage.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Come on, there is no company in the world that is going to cover something forever. 150K on the truck, you got more than your money out of it, buck up and either pay the man or find a junkyard engine and replace it or sell it and move on. Oh, if you find a car company that really, really warrentees a gas engine for that long, let me know and I'll put that company at the top of my list when it comes time for a new vehicle. :shades:
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    I believe you would be best off buying and installing a complete used '08-09 engine from a wrecked truck. They have bigger displacement, more horsepower & torque, better economy, and larger alternators. You might have a couple of small challenges on the exhaust side but it would probably be worth it overall. I am considering just this for my California emission '04 5cyl 5mt 2wd.
    Also keep in mind that any qualified automotive machine shop can repair these heads. Loose valve seats have been around since the first aluminum race heads came out and an experienced machinist can easily test and repair them better than new.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    remember that these new engines are run by computers and one years computer may or may not run a newer engine. I'm guessing that a 08/09 engine will NOT be compatible with his older trucks computer. I think shopping around for a good aftermarket repair place would not only be the best bet but also the cheapest.
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    Yes BUT the newer engine will not have any additional ECM controlled functions. If the inputs (sensors) are slightly different simply use the old ones. The existing ECM will quickly re-map the necessary parameters to operate the engine properly. A tiny gain might be realized by the matching year ECM but it wouldn't be noticable in driving it.
    The only changes I'm sure of are: A. Upgrading the alternator output wiring & maybe the mega fuse. B. There may be differences in the exhaust port shape/location that may require the use of the later model manifold & cat's.
    Looks like an easy one day install to me.
  • weezy3weezy3 Posts: 1
    I just took my 2006 Colorado into the dealer due to rough idle also. It has 64,000 miles on it. You guessed it the head was bad. They are going to replace it for free. Would have been around $3000.00. If you have problems with your 5-cyl. engine idling rough make sure you tell the dealer that you know of this problem. Make sure the call the GM rep to see if your VIN fits into the free replacement grouping. By the way it is OK to drive it, the problem is that the valve does not seat and you lose compression at idle RPM's. The was a flaw in the main casting.
  • falcon19falcon19 Posts: 6
    I baught my 2006 5 cyl Colarado in January 2007 as a new vehicle. It runs fine now, but I only have 20K on the engine, since I own and drive two other cars. My problem is that my warranty ends in about 7 months. I don't want to be stuck with a $3000 repair bill, but I love the truck.

    I called the dealer and was told that my VIN was not subject to a warranty extension at this time. I assume it was built sometime in 2006. I also called a HQ cutomer service number they gave me and was told the same.

    You can bet that I will be making some more calls and inquiries before my warranty ends.

    Any suggestions?Was this problem corrected on newer 06 models?
  • I just picked up my Chevy COlorado from a dealership for the second time the head was bad. As you all know GM will honor the 100,000 miles under warranty. My problem 110,000 miles. As stated before this is the second time for this. The first time was at 60,000 now it is 50,000 on the new head. GM will not cover it as it is over the 100,000 mile mark. My main complaint is this is only 50,000 on the NEW head and they don't care! I got jerked around my so many people both at GM and my dealership. I was told that they can't do anything over 100,000 miles or they would have to for everyone. WHAT?!!! This is only 50,000 on this head....THAT GM KNOWS IS A PROBLEM!!!!! I was also informed that a civil lawsuit or class action lawsuit might be coming (if there are enough people) against this, as the dealership informed me that mine was one of the first vehicles to get this warrantied and that there may be more coming (like this is supposed to make me feel better about dropping $3200). Couple other funny notes about this is it was exactly the same cylinder (cylinder 2) on both heads, and both heads were produced by 2 different companies....I am thinking DESIGN FLAW!!! I am going to do everything in my LEGAL power to deter everyone I know (and ones I don't) to never buy a GM product again or visit the same dealership I did. One more thing...I also had to replace a cracked exhaust manifold with just keeps getting better.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sorry to hear about your problems. I had a similar problem years ago with a 95 Corsica that had GM's 2.2 liter push rod engine. These engines ate head gaskets. The head gasket was replaced twice under the base warranty and once under the extended warranty that I had purchased when the car was new. The head gasket was leaking again after the extended warranty had expired at about 75,000 to 80,000 miles and GM refused to fix it. I said the job wasn't fixed right three times and they still refused to fix it. I wound up trading the car in for a Saturn. At 110,000 miles your better off trading it in for whatever it's worth. Good luck.
  • I have a 2006 Canyon 5 cyl I just bought with 48000 miles. At idle there is an engine tapping noise, but it doesnt sound like a knock. My mechanic said it sounds like a tapping lifter and thicker oil will quiet it. My friends said chevy trucks do it too. Has anyone else noticed this problem and does it mean anything is or will break?
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    You probably have the dreaded loose valve seat. Have a dealer check your truck. A special extended warrantee (to 100,000 miles on all Canyon/Colorado 4 & 5 cyl.) will fully cover the cost of a cylinder head replacement. Do not let them sell you anything else or charge you.
    Good luck,
  • falcon19falcon19 Posts: 6
    Call GM HQ ASAP. In my last (and only) post on this forum, I asked if anybody knew when the cutoff date for the valve cover problem warranty for 06 models ended. I have the late 06 model with only 22K but am worried that sooner or later I will be stuck with the $3000 repair bill.

    No replies yet. Looks like you may already be haveing the problem. Heavier oil is not a fix for anything.
  • falcon19falcon19 Posts: 6
    Anybody out there?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Falcon", you seem to be a little confused with your "problems". To the best of my knowledge, I've never heard of any "valve cover" issues. There have been, however, "valve seat" issues with the '04-'07 Canyon/Colorado I-5 engines. GM issued a letter to the owners of the "potentially effected" vehicles.

    This letter, essentially stated that the engines on these vehicles were given an extended warranty for 7yrs/100,000 miles. Yes, if your engine is making new, and/or strange noises, you should have it looked at by the dealer ASAP. If it is indeed a cylinder head issue, the repair, if paid out of pocket", would be near $3000, parts and labor.

    However, you said "valve cover"....I doubt a valve cover repair/replacement would cost $3000.

    FWIW, my Canyon is now 4.5 years old, with 27,000 miles. Presently, it's running like a champ. IF, and I repeat IF, the head is one of the bad ones, I hope it craps out soon. I don't want to have to shell out the $$ myself, if if goes bad after the 7 year warranty is up...assming GM is still in business and honoring "old" waranties!!
  • lift4041lift4041 Posts: 6
    I have a 2004 Colorado with 58,000 miles on it. It runs very well, yet it clatters terribly at idle and when i throttle up. I have not had my check engine light come on at all since the last time i brought it to the dealer. The last time it had a miss, and the light came on. But now there is no light and plenty of clattering. Some one said that possibly the timing chain is out of adjustment, but i can't seem to find out even if there is an adjustment. I thought there was only guides in there with no adjustments. Is the clattering the valve seats or could it be the timing chain. Also does the check engine light need to be on in order for the dealer to check it out for the extended warrantee issue.
  • Sorry, I meant cyl head problem. Mine is a 2006 model I baught in early 2007 and now has 23K. I have received no "letter" from Chevy on this problem. My worry is that the 3 year warranty will run out before I get an official notice on the extension.

    Last time I called them I could not pin them down on this. I'll try calling them again and post their answer.

  • Hello,

    I found "The Letter".
    I had received it in November 2008 and my wife had filed it away without telling me. It says that in "some" 2006 Colorados "engine valve seats may wear."

    A tipoff that this is happening is that the Service Engine Soon (SES) may come on and "additional wear may lead to engine idle roughness."

    Anyhow, the letter is a notification that the warranty for this problem is now 7 years or 100,000 miles from the date of purchase. Good news!

    Here is a phone number contained in the letter for any questions regarding this: 1-800-630-2438.

    Hope this is helpful,

  • I've been experiencing engine and various electronic issues with my 05 Colorado from DAY 1 such as: rough starting (shuddering) and running, no starting, 4WD and emergency flashers inadvertantly engaging, trailer lights (loom wiring) not functioning, headlamps out, ABS sensor fault, seal issues -- blah blah. The list goes on.

    3 different parts were changed on three different occasions for the 4WD issue, and a throttle body assembly and injector feed wire were replaced for the starting issues.

    I currently have 81K on the truck and I'm now experiencing unpredictable, infrequent start-up problems (again) ever since I ran my fuel down to a LOW FUEL WARNING level.

    It's crazy. I can run for several days, then boom -- no start. It will crank with no engine turnover. In each instance, the engine will eventually turnover after a few tries and then turning the ignition switch on after having let it sit for several minutes. A mechanic had advised pounding on the fuel tank on one occasion which seemed to get immediate results, although I wasn't sure if it was because of sitting idle after repeated cranking. There have also been other instances when tank rapping hasn't worked.

    I've had two different GM mechanics and a veteran GM exec acknowledge fuel pump issues with their products although I'm not so sure after reading some message postings on the Edmunds forum. One guy said it could be an electrical contact issue with the pump, a hot spot that will react irregularly when the engine is hot, cold, idle for awhile, etc. etc. -- blah, blah. He said the newer fule pumps will slowly fail as opposed to outright failure common to past defections.

    I've had two guys check it for codes and there are none. I've put a fuel pressure gauge on the valve and get 53 -55 lbs of pressure when the non-start gremlin magically appears. It seems likely that the pump is functioning properly with that amount of pressure even during the no-start condition.

    I don't want to drop 3 bills for a pump and find out it's not the problem. It will be more if I take it to a dealer.

    PLEASE HELP!!! Can anybody offer"> a suggestion -- other than a flare?
  • Same exact problem took it to the dealer thay had it for 5 days and no problem i get it back does the same thing. HEEELLLLLLPPPP!
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