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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Shareholder, there is no way you should be wearing out the inside of the tires that quickly. My opinion is that the dealer, even though they are "aligning" your truck, they're not working within the limits of the specs to eliminate your problem.

    Many of the newer alignment machines have the "red" (out of spec) and "green" (within spec) scales built into their software, and many of the younger techs simply get the machine's screen "in the green", and proclaim that you're "good". They don't yet have the understanding or experience to diagnose problems accurately, and formulate a "custom" solution to your problem. Also, I'm sure that GM exerts a certain amount of leverage on them to adjust "to the green settings" regardless of what the tire wear is saying.

    Well, "good" is still wearing out your tires, so you need an "old fashioned" wheel alignment man that will read the problem, and tweak the specs a bit, to fix the situation. It would appear to me that if you're wearing the insides of the tires, you have either A) too much negative camber; B) too much toe-out; or C) a little of both. Maybe, in order to fix your particular wear problem, your truck needs to be a little in the "red" zone, and you need a front end man that know suspensions, and not just how to turn the adjustment bolts to get it in the "green".

    To be honest with you, I DO rotate my tires, but I sincerely believe it isn't the cure for everything. Look at how many cars today have staggered tire sizes, directional tread patterns, or both. Can't rotate the tires on a car like that.....
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Shiftright, that's avery interesting post, howver it lacks one important thing...The ride (trim) height measurement!

    When I first took delivery of my Canyon, I picked it up in the evening, and it was snowing pretty heavily. Therefore, I basically drove straight home, about 2-2.5 miles, and didn't realy get a feel how it handled. The next day, while driving to work, I was shocked! The truck was all over the road.

    I have a general distrust of dealers, so I took it to my trusted front end man a couple of days later, to have the alignment checked, as I felt it HAD to be off....way off! Long story short, the alignment was OK, we bumped the air pressure 5-6 lbs. and the truck was somewhat drivable.

    A few days later, I put 4 Blizzaks on the truk, as it was primarily my winter vehicle, and it was like a different truck altogether. The OE General tires were SO BAD, that a good set of snow tires made it handle 100% better!

    Anyway, do you happen to know the trim height spec? Just out of curiousity, I'd like to check mine. (It's a 4WD, Z-71) Thanks!

    As a side note, I mentioned this in another Canyon/Colorado discussion...I switched to 16" rims and 245/75/16 tires, as well as adding a rear sway bay. It handles quite well now, for a 4x4, that is.....
  • I bought a 08 Canyon in April and I have idle engine problems that the dealer can't seem to fix. The truck when stoped acts like its going to die and shakes. There are no lights to indicate that there is a problem but its not normal. The dealer has tried re-programing the computer two different times and said they cleaned out the trottle?? GM said that they have the latest computer program that they will have to try but ill have to wait and see. I also have had other problems such as: windsheild wipers going off whenever, seatbelt issues, and backfiring. Any info that could help my cause??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    No I don't know where I'd find that measurement. Your alignment guy should be able to find it though in his spec sheets.

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  • I have a 08 colorado 5cyl 4x4. the engine seems to not shift from low to drive. the engine is very loud and truck will only creep. At times it seems to drop to neutral. All this happens at start up before the engine warms up. It will be fine the rest of the day. I had it in to the dealer twrice, but they say it is normal or that the computer says it is ok. :confuse:
  • Hi!
    Have you tried with Mobile 1 5-30W fully synthetic oil. My noise disapeared!
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Not saying this is the issue, but the torque converter has a lot to do with your shifting and ability to get up to speed.
  • I have had the same problem. When I would come to a light my rmps would drop to about 400 and shake. It had 36700 miles out of warranty. They said it was still within the specs and since out of warranty they could noth. $300 they clean throttle and fuel rail and reset computer. 15,000 miles later it began to stall at light about once a week. I refused to take it in, but when it stalled turning left in traffic I had no choice. I told GM Service that I would not pay 300 dollars every 15,000 miles. This time only 89 dollars. They claim that they could not find anything wrong with it because no check engine light on. I also noticed when it was having these problems if you put it into neutral when getting on the highway the rmps would bounce between 400 and 1200.
  • Now my 2007 Colorado 2wd 3.7L 81,000 Miles is loosing some coolant. About a half of gallon

    I am going to wait and see if it continues. Before I take it to the dealer.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    It'll stop pretty soon as there won't be any left. :shades:
  • The dealer tried to calm the rough idle down about 5 times by reloading the computer. After 5 times they said that there is NO fix for the problem and that it is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. I don't think there is enough money for GM to put fourth the effort to help their customers. I guess the lawyers will have to see if its a problem or not. My truck looks cool but is a pile of crap. The lighting doesn't work right, my window wipers go off whenever they feel like it, and now the truck has a rattle sound in the engine when driving.
  • hi i bought a 2005 colorado with 61,000 miles on it i had it 1 week then the motor wasnt idling right i brought it to chevy and they said there was a recall on all the 3.5 5 cyl motors they had to put a new cly head on it. so if you know anybody else that has this problem gm has to fix it for free 10 years or 100,000 miles on it at first they were trying to keep it quiet but they could not. and just hope they dont break the cam sensor like they did on mine . that took a week to get that part.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Everyone who own them at the time was sent a letter on the problem so it is well known and a few here have had the problem fixed.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    I received "the letter", and it's safely tucked away in my truck's glovebox. Hopefully, I won't need to use it, however at the rate I put mileage on the truck, I'll never get anywhere near 100,000 miles on it within the 7 year period.

    My truck is 4 years old this month, and I'm just approaching 26,000 miles. Knock on wood, it's still running well.....
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    My nephews 2005 5-cylinder Canyon has been troublefree thus far.
  • I just had the code come up on my 05 rado and from what I understand everyone says t more than likley the head, goes dealer monday any recomdations on how to aproch them if they tell me its the head and try to charge for it only has 60,000 miles.
  • hurtsjhurtsj Posts: 1
    did you ever get any answers on this? my canyon has this exact same issue and i was wondering what you did or if your problem has been resolved?
    we are off all warranty now and i am worried this is going to lead to bigger and more expensive problems.

    please help jaytee2
  • I have an 07 colo. 4x4 w/265/75/16 Decoata AT's from Pep boys w/10,400 miles. (hard).. Tire ware very good @ never rotated. 32psi ft./30psi rear. Also have 2 full turns in on each torsion adj. bolt. Has factory alignment. Drives good.Runs good. Has 3.7 L. Truck came fully loaded. No problem's yet. Getting rear air bags soon.
  • I have a 2004 Canyon, 178,xxx miles since new. If you start getting low idle/ check engine light with "low idle speed" code after 30k miles or so, clean the throttle valve assembly. I clean mine every 50k. Carbon buildup in the assembly changes the position of the air valve at idle and throws the idle circuit off. You need a flat blade screwdriver, a 1/4 in. rachet with 6 in. extension, a 10 mm socket, a can of throttlebody cleaner, and a paper towel. Remove the aircleaner top (3 snaps), the cleaner to intake pipe (2 hoseclamps), the oil vapor chamber (big plastic box on top of engine, 2 bolts and a vent hose). this leaves the throttle assembly with 4 bolts and a wire connector. Remove and clean (wipe, don't just spray) the passageway thoroughly, making sure you open the valve with your fingers and clean the seating area. Re-assemble. iIt takes 25-35 minutes and 5 bucks; not even worth calling the dealer for. If you're going to own a truck, you should be able to do some of this stuff for yourself; you can't expect the dealers to wipe your butt for you. If you want that kind of service, buy a BMW or Mercedes- the pricetag will reflect your right to have the ashtray emptied for you on demand.
    On Tires, I burn a set a year - figured out they had the wrong alignment specs from the factory on the second set- a good shop is one where they know how to adjust the specs to make the alignment right; my guy made his own adjustments and I haven't had an issue since.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Do a search on this discussion thread...Go back to late 2006-early 2007. Someone posted a copy of the letter that GM sent out to all registered Canyon/Colorado owners. This letter explained what GM will do for you, as well as any exclusions.

    With respect to the tire/alignment discussions, I decided to put my truck on the alignment rack, since it hasn't been on one since it was a couple of days old. All that was required was a slight toe adjustment, as the caster/camber were OK. The truck always drove well, once I got the OE General tires off of it, and was still doing so. However, after 4 years to "settle in", I wanted to check things once again.
  • I have an 07 Colorado 4 cylinder, 4wd. I've had no problems with the engine, altho the lack of low end torque is annoying. Shoulda bought the 4.10 rear end. With regards to alignment, the truck always tended to wander a little, so I finally got off my lazy hind end and took it in for a check. Man, what a difference. Guess GM doesn't do the greatest job aligning them. The tow in was way off. I suspect it's been that way right along. I also had them put some new shocks on it, which also made a big difference. I intend to add a rear sway bar. In 07 this was not even an option.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Longrunner", you're suggesting that an owner actually perform some maintenance on their vehicles???? Wow, there's a novel concept!

    :D :D
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Harvey", I added a rear sway bar to my truck this past summer. While it didn't turn it into a "corner carver", it certainly did help out.
  • I took to the dealer and they said it was the throttle body and it needed replaced, they said they would do it under warranty but was not sure if it was covered or not, just wondering if that item is covered, i didnt get a bill. But we will see if the light comes back on or not.
  • i have an 05 colorado. engine light came on three months ago. i do most of the maintenence on the truck myself, never had real problems with it. Started running rough at idle. replacing plugs and ignition coils didn't fix the problem. I took it to the dealer finally and they said the head needed to be replaced ($3000). Never got a letter in the mail or i would have brought it in. They don't care because the truck has 106650 miles on it so now they don't have to fix it. It is a work truck that i put alot of miles on. If i had taken to the dealer when the light came on three months ago i would have been under 100,000. I don't think its right. The head was like a time bomb that i wasn't aware of. Still owe for two years on it. And when i got it back from diagnostic work , the ABS light was on and the speedo doesn't work at all. So i took the truck back today and they want to charge $300 to fix, when i know its their fault. the mileage loged on the service paper work is what the truck still registers after driving at least 200 miles today. how can they not be responsible. Oh well , going back tomorrow to work up the chain. Never will i buy another GM vehicle. :mad:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    So because you didn't take it in it is GM's fault. Do you think they put the light on there just to look pretty? The head problem has been a known issue for a couple years at least but nothing would have been done unless it reared its head. For most of us this wasn't a problem. Why not get a Toyota truck next time as they have been quietly buying them back due to rusting frames. So you see no ones truck/vehicle is without problems. There are just to many parts to not have something go wrong. Admit, it was your thoughtlessness that is costing you the money so suck it up and get it fixed and take it as an expensive lesson, when the light comes on get it to the dealer. :cry:
  • "D", that's a bit cold......but true. When the light goes on, 99.9% of the time, it's for a legitimate reason. Putting off a trip to the dealer for a few days is one thing, because sometimes a light will set for something simple like a loose gas cap, and it will clear the code after a few starts. But 3 MONTHS?? That's foolish.
  • Where would I find this letter as I am having check engine light problems with my 06 colorado and dealer tells me it is cylinder misfire and needs new cylinder head.
    truck has 54,000 miles
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Why was that a bit cold. Someone needs to take the person aside and explain the facts of life so to speak. When you wait 3 months you lose a lot of respect here and need someone to tell it like it is.
  • i guess your right. The days of working on your own vehicle are over. Working 6 days a week sometimes 12 hours a day leaves sunday to do maintenance on vehicles. Why wouldn't everyone want to pay $90 to the dealer to tell you whats wrong when they will do it at auto zone for free. Last time i checked there wasnt' a CEL code that puts out a cylinder head defect from the manufacturer warning. i should realisticly get another 100000 out of that truck without major engine problems. Why shouldn't i expect a company thats been in business better than 70 years to stand by their product without loopholing out of responsibility. I guess with all that taxpayer bailout money , they just don't really have to give a hoot. Bad business decisions should not be rewarded so bad business decisions can continue to be made. Lets reward them so they can continue with business as usual. 6000 miles doesn't remove responsibility for poor quality parts that they supposedly have taken responsibility for.
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