I bought my ,04 Colorado from dealer inventory June of '05,since then it's had two recalls that have been taken care of (Engine, Fuel Cap) have yet to receive any notice on or about the light problem. never the less last month the fan stopped working PERIOD my service tech troubleshot the complete system too find no problems so we decided to replace fan motor STILL ONLY WORKS intimately. back in '06 the dealer replaced the fan switch so I thought only to find that connection was taped (don’t know why) the dealer had it for 2 days and told me they replaced the switch. brought it back several times for two very annoying rattles inside the cab, the service writer went with me twice and twice they held it over night only to be told they couldn’t "duplicate " the problem. same with the rattle coming from under the hood. not too mention I’m forever changing light bulbs. BUT TODAY 9/7/10 was the straw that broke the camels back on my way home from the shop today (fan still) the engine just started skipping was lucky to get it home. In dyer need of answers this is getting costly seeing the vehicle has and still is well maintained!!.
Bought a 2005 Chevy Colorado from Ed Morse in WPB FL, when they closed, they threw out all their records. I found out afterwards also they sold me a truck that had been a rental, so every jerk that got thrown out of his apartment, rented my truck for the day before I got it. At 29K engine misfired on #4. Throttle body cleaning, injector cleaning didn't work. waited 2 months wiht it in the shop to replace the cylinder head, still does it. Poor gas mileage, had two dealerships and three local guys repair it, clsoe to a thousand bucks lighter each time. Each time they reset the computer and within a few weeks light comes on again. Engine runs rough, poor mileage. This morning, rpms all over between 600 and 300 trying in gear, thought I was going to die. This truck has been a problem since I got it and it stays fixed for a couple weeks and the light comes back on.
Ri1958 mentions a fuel cap recall. Does anyone know the details of this recall, or maybe a recall for the truck? My 05 Colorado Z71 might be the worst vehicle I've ever owned (running a close 2nd to an 88 Bonneville). It's clearly a lemon with many electrical problems.
Recently, my Fuel Cap warning light displayed, went off after a restart and then came on again a week later. After shut down and restarting 2 hours later, the engine light came on. The engine light went off for awhile but has since come on again. The Fuel Cap light goes on and off irregularly. Is this an electrical problem or actual problem (I did read code P0455: EVAP System Leak)? A GM mechanic advised that it's $600 for the test to determine what parts need replacing! Apparently, there are a number of parts that, if defective, will trigger code P0455.
The no-start Gremlin also showed up again on 10/15/10 after an extended absence. I’ve had inadvertent no-start symptoms for over 2+ years but the problem has never been determined or discovered by the dealer (they had the truck for over a week once). Of course, GM will not cover this issue because I can not provide proof the problem was first addressed within factory warranty.
There are numerous posts on Edmunds forum about the no-start Gremlin, Jhacket (reply 505) and crashrecovery (507) most recently. Why won’t GM acknowledge this problem? Can anyone provide more information about codes B2960 or B1383 mentioned by crashrecovery? Are these codes the actual problem and how much will it cost to fix? Does anyone know if GM will cover this problem as a known defect?
My ABS Fault warning light has also displayed on and off since 8/2008 approximately 1 month after the dealer did a brake job. They claimed it had nothing to do with their work but they were happy to advise that the right front hub wheel bearing assembly and sensor needed replacement ($800+). I replaced the parts for less, albeit not at the dealer, yet the warning light still came on and the ABS braking still didn’t work. I tried replacing the sensor again and now the ABS braking kicks in inadvertently on dry pavement, then the light comes on and the ABS stops functioning. What gives?
Clearly, these trucks have major defects, many of them electrical. This truck is bleeding me, as I’ve easily invested close to $2G in repairs beyond the factory warranty, and that doesn’t cover the GM costs within warranty.
Since 05, I’ve had problems with: 4W self engagement Tie rods (replacement within 20K) Transfer case control module & leakage Front axle seal leakage Emergency flasher module self activation Various squeaks Trailer hitch harness inoperable Defective front seat cover Throttle body, actuator Injector feed wire breakage Brake lamp switch Radio display Radio Bezel Cylinder head and intake valve replacement Cracked manifold ABS braking system default EVAP system default
Is this normal or does anyone know if I might qualify for the Fed lemon law. I was a previous S-10 owner and only experienced typical maintenance, wear and tear problems.
Seeking inexpensive help or suggestions. Any answers are appreciated. Thanks.
Toyota Tacoma wins 'Hands Down' - No Comparison. Government Motors ploy to discredit Toyota in order to keep General Motors employee retirement funds financed. Apple Pie & Chevrolet no longer relate. If Toyota is out of the question - Transfer to Ford. No government ownership involved there.
I hate to say it, but your issues are a faded nightmare, as I too had the same issues you speak of with my 05 Colorado. My best advice would be to get rid of it as quick as possible. I find myself up side down in my current vehicle, but so much easier to deal with a bigger payment, than those repair bills on top of current payment. Colorado's are just junk, although there are some people whom have them and don't have the problems, but seems a rare find. Again, with the problems your dealing with at this point, it will only continue, and from what I've read, there is no help from GM on its way..cut your loses and move on..good luck to you
Just wondering if anybody can help me before i bring my truck to a dealer I have an 04 colorado and the truck does not go over 30mph, the indicator reads reduced power. Can anyone relate to the same problem?
You are as miserable as I have been the last 3 years. I have a 2006 GMC Canyon. It has a 2.8 liter 4 cylinder. It never runs good. It idles rough. The check engine light is off and on all the time. The last time I brought the truck in it was some actuator and they cleaned my throttle body and adjusted the fuel with a computer. Costed me over 310.00. It fixed the problem for a while. Now it's doing it again. I brought it back to them and they said I needed to replace my whole fuel system. From my fuel pump, injectors, lines cleared and new fuel rails. I don't know who to believe anymore. This truck has cost me a mint. I had a 1998 Isuzu Hombre and put 538,000 miles on it and never had problems with it. What kind of junk had GM built here? :sick:
I have an 06 GMC Canyon and I am having the same problem with my blower motor. The blower only blows on the high speed. My driver side light olso fogs up. I am also having a bad idle problem. It misses horribly at idle. Does anybody know why. I would love to know why it does this.
Is this cam shaft actuator fix these dealerships have been doing to peoples vehicles a big coverup for something GM is trying to hide. Would a cam shaft actuator make an engine run good for a while if it was another problem all together. Somebody please investigate this. I am tired of replacing cam shaft actuators. Maybe GM needs to buyback all these vehicle lemons.
That is all bullcrap about not changing your oil enough. My story is exactly like yours. I got the letter and they said my truck did not have that problem, but the camshaft actuator needed to be replaced. I change my oil every 2 weeks. I have a delivery service. Your truck will do this again. I tell you, GM is covering something up with these cam shaft actuators. It's a quick fix to a more serious, costlier problem that they don't want to foot the bill on. That actuator hides the problem for awhile. I now have 186,000 on my 06 GMC Canyon and it is doing the same thing. It started about 7 months after the first cam shaft actuator. I refuse to put anymore money into this truck until GM fesses up to this. I WANT RESULTS. NOW :shades:
I completely gave up with my Chevy dealer service. I changed my 2008 Colorado 3.7 motor oil to Castrol Synthetic 5-30 and an OE Delco filter. The tapping noise after cold start is currently gone. Synthetic is a superior lubricant.
bminton, I apologize for your experience. If you would like to e-mail me your VIN I would be happy to look into recall information for you. Christina GM Customer Service
If so, I’m screwed! I bought a used 2005 Colorado Z-71 I-5 in July 2009 with 29,000 miles. It came with the CUV warranty 12/12k miles. I noticed a rough idle earlier this year and asked the dealer to diagnose while it was in for an unrelated service. They offered me a fuel injector cleaning service which I declined in lieu of some fuel injector cleaner. I’m out of warranty at this point, and the truck runs terrible. The idle fluctuates erratically to the point that the lights dim a stop lights and check engine light is on almost constantly. What should I do?
Hey Man, you should clean your mass air flow sensor and clean the Throttle Body...Seriously, my truck was idling rough with the rpms jumping and it stalled a few times while stopping...mass air flow sensor cleaner at autozone and take the throttle body off and clean it well with throttle body cleaner! If that doesn't do it...change the fuel filter...then maybe O2 sensor...but hopefully the MAFS and TB cleaning do the trick
I think you have a bad connection to the blower motor and I think it is behind the glove box...I'm having the same problem right now, but I am yet to fix it...soon though...my truck was idling rough for a while and I cleaned the throttle body and Mass air flow sensor and it pepped up in a major way...currently I am having another kind of idle issue...but you should definitely clean those items!
Agreed. My Question to you is when you fire it up in a cold start and wait, does it take awhile for your oil to read correctly on the dip stick? I changed my oil and ran it for sometime, it took quite a long time for it to read correctly. I run lucas stabilizer to help.
Does anyone notice a "tick" when they run the blower on 1 or 2 for heat or air or vent? It is coming from my passenger side on the floor. I have an 08 Colorado in line 5. Any thoughts would be great.
Also anyone have issues with oil changes taking a long time to even be seen on the dipstick? I can run my truck for 10 minutes and it won't show full after an oil change.
Hi Mowgrass, Yes, it takes a while for all new added oil to drain down to fill the pan in the 3.7 litre. I would not put any additives in. It is the oil that counts, so buy the best you can. On an oil change, you know how much you added for the total amount, so no concern. I also add to the filter before installing it up, so the pump is primed.
I use synthetic in small engines, lawn tractor, etc. too. Thanks!
No I am not. I just was saying when I changed it and let it run that after i allowed it to run for sometime I went back and checked it a few times and it took quite awhile for the it to show up on the dipstick.
Can anyone please tell me the location of the O2 sensor for a 2004 Colorado? My engine light came on and a local mechanic tells me that it's the O2 sensor. I would like to buy one and replace it myself, but don't know where to look on the truck. Is there more than one O2 sensor?
How did your mechanic determine that the 02 sensor was at fault? If it was just from reading a trouble code, you may be throwing money away here, since the scanner does not tell us which component is bad, only which system or circuit is reacting in a deficient manner. Many an 02 sensor that is perfectly fine ends up in the trash bin these days, along with frustrated owners. The only way to know if an o2 sensor is bad is to test it individually for proper voltage values. A 02 code could actually be about many other things not related to a bad 02 sensor.
If he tested it properly for you by getting under the car and applying a meter to the sensor, then okay.
Thank you for the response and no he didn't get under the truck. I believe it was just a code from an engine light reading. I would hate to throw money away and have the light still on. Is there any visual way to inspect an O2 sensor without damaging it?
drumline5, Can you please email me your complete contact info including a good number to reach you, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and your Edmunds username (or a link to this page). I look forward to your response. Christina GM Customer Service
You mean by looking at it? No, I don't think so. You have to test it with a volt meter. I mean, it might be a good *guess*, just from reading the code, but chances are even up that won't cure your problem.
I own an 05 2.8L manual with 102,200 miles which could have been part of the valve seat recall. First I will say that I have enjoyed the truck...and still do? I like the looks of these Colorados and the truck ran pretty strong for a while, but now I am having an issue which I really hope is not that valve seat problem...I have burned out somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 taillights, headlights, or brake lights. Once the truck shook violently and stalled while the traction control engaged while driving in snow...took it to the dealer and they said everything was fine. The front end on my truck shakes like an SOB while I'm driving between 50 and 70. I put H3 rims with 265/70/16s on it so I initially attributed it to the tires but I think they may have just accentuated the problem with the front end. I have had a ton of codes pop up since I have owned it and I have had the codes pulled at Autozone each time, and tried to diagnose the problem with their info...Once they recommended I buy a new gas cap because there was a pressure problem, etc. Also I was once told to change the cam position sensor...did that and nothing changed...so I did a tune up...changed the plugs, front o2 sensor, air filter, fuel filter, differential fluid, etc. that helped but at about 90,000 miles the truck was idling terribly and started stalling on me when I slowed down or came to a sudden stop...did that about 6 or 7 times while I was out of town one weekend...so I researched and found that cleaning the mass air flow sensor and throttle body might help that...wow did it ever! Cleaning those components pepped up the truck in a big way...I was pretty pleased with how strong it was pulling so I figured no way I was gonna be one of those valve seat trucks...Well around 98K my clutch pedal starts feeling weird as if the hydraulics in the pedal are trashed...but it still worked ok...bled the clutch line and well it may have helped some maybe...still having that problem...then about a week and a half ago during a cold spell, I start her up and the damn thing is idling like a diesel and I'm hearing clicking up front...well I was hoping this was something with the water pump, power steering pump, pulleys or something, but It has gotten worse and it hasn't thrown any codes in about 12k. And on top of this, my blower will now only work on high...so I have a wiring or connection problem. I've been looking into these problems and I think the best case scenario for my engine noise is gonna be a timing chain tensioner, which I may be able to handle or afford. I would like to fix this truck up a little bit and try to put a ton of miles on it but wow at 100K like clockwork the damn thing is trying to clean my wallet! I'm not bitter because the truck was cheap and every vehicle is going to have problems, but damn the head issue and well if I end up getting the motor squared away and put new tires on it with an alignment, it better straighten up! Going to talk to my mechanic friend on Friday for him to hear it...After that, maybe I'm gonna swing by the dealership to see if they can help with this...help being financial help...as in discounted fix? Also added to the list of problems...my rear window leaks pretty bad when it rains...I think it screwed up my amp and speakers...
Talked to my mechanic, going to be looking at the timing chain and tensioner and the lifters...planning on a DIY...starting 2011 with a nice little project...happy new year...looking forward to redlining this thing a few times after I get it right...lol...One last comment before the project starts...thinking about many posts I've seen bashing the truck and GM...there is always that thing about buying American...and being able to find parts...I believe this is going to hold true...
I had engine ticking on my 05 Colorado, as well as many of the other problems you mention. Head and valves were replaced under GM special warranty. Dealer advised me that the ticking noise was caused by a cracked manifold, which GM would not cover under the special warranty. The ticking is gone, but I poured $500+ more into my black hole.
As far as buying American and accepting that all vehicles have some problems...JD Powers ranked the Colorado (#2) and Canyon (#?) among the top 7 worst vehicles made in 2010 so it's reasonable to assume there's more than a handful of Colorado problems. My mileage is still under 100K, and the defects I've experienced are unacceptable and too long to list. At least other unsuspecting GM loyalists won't have to worry about buying a Colorado, as I heard GM is bailing on this truck. Apparently, I've been a loyal GM customer for too long and it's time to consider bailing on blind loyalty.
Problem is fixed....thanks for the responses. I installed a new front O2 sensor and took off my throttle body and totally cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. I also took out my MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF sensor spray. The engine light went off and the truck is running like it is brand new again. It's very responsive when touching the gas. I highly recommend doing this simple 1 hour maintenance tip to anyone with a sluggish Colorado.
Good for you. Well, everything you did is related to the code you got---it might have been fun to do them one at a time, to isolate which one it actually was---but sometimes experiments are a luxury.
I just got on the highway and when i got to 55mph it stopped accelerating and the RPMs went through the roof while a whining sound came about. I took my foot off the gas and RPMs went down but i could no longer accelerate. The sound is still present even after re starting the truck as well as not moving. When shifting from park to drive you can feel them engage like normal but still no driving even when switching to 4WD. I've had some friends look and ask their friends and i've heard everything from torque converter, transmission pump, transmission shaft, linkage, to computer. Mileage is just over 110k and keep regular maintenance. I'm hoping it doesn't have to do with the existing minor electrical problem i've been seeing. Things like half the stereo lights are on but thats been present since i bought it, left blinker is out but blinks when i engage, I bought it used at around 82K. Thats about it, if you have any questions dont hesitate to ask. Im getting ready to bring it to a shop to actually have a mechanic take it apart and look next week. Any ideas or experience with this? If so what the hell should i do. Thanks.
I just thought I'd try a forum to see if anyone else is having the same difficulties I ma with my 07 Canyon. It's a 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Ever since it was new, and I have reported to the dealer at almost every oil change, occasionally when in neutral the engine will race or pant. It will rev to 1500 rpm, then drop down to 450-500 then rev back up and drop back down. Typically this will happen while the the truck is running, only twice has it actually stalled while doing this. Dealer says ther are no notices on this and the software is the latest version.
Wiggle electrical plug in connector to the fan motor while the ignition and fan switch is on. If the motor starts working it is likely the connector. Pull the connector off and if it looks burnt or brown near some pins than it needs to be replaced. GM has a new modified connector for this purpose.
The key switch lock on the steering column has a diode in it. If it detects that the switch is not operating properly it thinks the vehicle is being tampered with then send a code to the body control module preventing the engine from starting. After 10 minutes the BCM resets and it will likely start. This event is described in the owners manual. I puffed some dry lube in the starter switch key way and it has not reacted as of yet. In the end it likely means a new key switch.
Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to get an update on how these repairs are doing. My 06 colorado I5 has been in the shop for over 4 weeks now with this problem. They first tried to clean the injectors, then they changed the head, which took 2.5 weeks. Now they tell me that the camshaft has seized up and ruined the new head. So now I probably have another few weeks waiting on a new head and camshaft. The dealer promises that they will get it fixed, but I'm really concerned with further damage that this problem can possibly cause.
lsucamaro, Has your dealer involved Technical Assistance? Have you spoke with Customer Assistance? I look forward to your response. Christina GM Customer Service
I have been having problems with my 2006 Colorado. It has a very rough idle. The other morning on the way to work the check engine light came on and it was shaking so bad that I barely made it to the dealership with it. At all the red lights I had to keep giving it gas so that it would die. I have had this problem happen once before and they said that it could be a timing sensor going out. It stopped and went back to running normal until just a couple day ago. When I took it in this time they told me that the engine was shot in it and it would cost me 7k for a new one. They said that the crank shaft was .025 out of alignment and as it was spinning it was breaking of pieces of the bearings into the motor. It only has 90k miles on it and I should not be dealing with this kind of problem. Has anyone else ran into this problem or have any suggestions on what to do?
I have had the same problem. On my way home from work the truck would wonder across the fog line as if i was making a lane change pulling the wheel almost a 1/2 turn to pull it back. Once i reached town i made a right turn and start to accelerate and a half block later the truck made a turn on its own accord in to a parked car.
I was talking to a mechanic and he was telling me that this is not an uncommon problem that is starting to come up with the rack and pinion in the trucks. He was also telling me that GMC was trying to keep the problem on the down low. Now is it true I cannot say if he was right or not. The gmc dealer was unaware of the problem.
I recently purchased a 04 Colorado from a local GM Dealership. 24 hours after purchasing the check engine light and ABS light came on. Took it back to the Dealer and they repaired a exhaust manifold gasket and a brake sensor. Nine days later, check engine light came on again. Dealer replaced the head gasket, undser my extended warranty. Four days later engine light again, had to replace both catalytic convertors on my dime. Four more days later check engine light is on again. When the truck is warm the engine pulses and has little power. It is again at the Dealership. Is this common for the Colorado to be plagued with problems? It only has 86k miles.
My engine light came on recently as well, after the fuel cap warning light displayed. Both the engine and fuel cap warning lights displayed intermittently for about 2 months, then stopped. A GM mechanic tested for codes but found nothing. In addition, my ABS breaking system has not worked for 3 years. The ABS function has irregularly engaged and disengaged with default illumination displaying intermittently. However, the ABS currently engages almost 100% of the time but the default lights don't come on anymore. The problem started after a basic break job at the dealer after the truck was 2 years old, of course, out of warranty. After installing a new front wheel hub and 2 ABS sensors, the dealer now THINKS it's the Brake Sensor Module. With new lines, this could be an $800+ repair cost.
I also experience a no-start phantom phenomenon which appears now and then. I'm currently experiencing this problem as well but I've taken the truck to the dealer 3 times over the last 2 years and they've never found the real source of the problem. However, they replaced the head under the GM special extended warranty. Guess what, it didn't fix the problem.
The truck has obvious electrical problems. Maybe GM or the Fed can help you. Don't expect much from the dealer. Good luck.
Comments
Recently, my Fuel Cap warning light displayed, went off after a restart and then came on again a week later. After shut down and restarting 2 hours later, the engine light came on. The engine light went off for awhile but has since come on again. The Fuel Cap light goes on and off irregularly. Is this an electrical problem or actual problem (I did read code P0455: EVAP System Leak)? A GM mechanic advised that it's $600 for the test to determine what parts need replacing! Apparently, there are a number of parts that, if defective, will trigger code P0455.
The no-start Gremlin also showed up again on 10/15/10 after an extended absence. I’ve had inadvertent no-start symptoms for over 2+ years but the problem has never been determined or discovered by the dealer (they had the truck for over a week once). Of course, GM will not cover this issue because I can not provide proof the problem was first addressed within factory warranty.
There are numerous posts on Edmunds forum about the no-start Gremlin, Jhacket (reply 505) and crashrecovery (507) most recently. Why won’t GM acknowledge this problem? Can anyone provide more information about codes B2960 or B1383 mentioned by crashrecovery? Are these codes the actual problem and how much will it cost to fix? Does anyone know if GM will cover this problem as a known defect?
My ABS Fault warning light has also displayed on and off since 8/2008 approximately 1 month after the dealer did a brake job. They claimed it had nothing to do with their work but they were happy to advise that the right front hub wheel bearing assembly and sensor needed replacement ($800+). I replaced the parts for less, albeit not at the dealer, yet the warning light still came on and the ABS braking still didn’t work. I tried replacing the sensor again and now the ABS braking kicks in inadvertently on dry pavement, then the light comes on and the ABS stops functioning. What gives?
Clearly, these trucks have major defects, many of them electrical. This truck is bleeding me, as I’ve easily invested close to $2G in repairs beyond the factory warranty, and that doesn’t cover the GM costs within warranty.
Since 05, I’ve had problems with:
4W self engagement
Tie rods (replacement within 20K)
Transfer case control module & leakage
Front axle seal leakage
Emergency flasher module self activation
Various squeaks
Trailer hitch harness inoperable
Defective front seat cover
Throttle body, actuator
Injector feed wire breakage
Brake lamp switch
Radio display
Radio Bezel
Cylinder head and intake valve replacement
Cracked manifold
ABS braking system default
EVAP system default
Is this normal or does anyone know if I might qualify for the Fed lemon law. I was a previous S-10 owner and only experienced typical maintenance, wear and tear problems.
Seeking inexpensive help or suggestions. Any answers are appreciated. Thanks.
Government Motors ploy to discredit Toyota in order to keep
General Motors employee retirement funds financed.
Apple Pie & Chevrolet no longer relate. If Toyota is out of the question - Transfer to Ford. No government ownership involved there.
I will keep all informed on the status.
I apologize for your experience. If you would like to e-mail me your VIN I would be happy to look into recall information for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I bought a used 2005 Colorado Z-71 I-5 in July 2009 with 29,000 miles. It came with the CUV warranty 12/12k miles. I noticed a rough idle earlier this year and asked the dealer to diagnose while it was in for an unrelated service. They offered me a fuel injector cleaning service which I declined in lieu of some fuel injector cleaner. I’m out of warranty at this point, and the truck runs terrible. The idle fluctuates erratically to the point that the lights dim a stop lights and check engine light is on almost constantly.
What should I do?
If that doesn't do it...change the fuel filter...then maybe O2 sensor...but hopefully the MAFS and TB cleaning do the trick
Also anyone have issues with oil changes taking a long time to even be seen on the dipstick? I can run my truck for 10 minutes and it won't show full after an oil change.
Yes, it takes a while for all new added oil to drain down to fill the pan in the 3.7 litre. I would not put any additives in. It is the oil that counts, so buy the best you can. On an oil change, you know how much you added for the total amount, so no concern. I also add to the filter before installing it up, so the pump is primed.
I use synthetic in small engines, lawn tractor, etc. too. Thanks!
I have no ideas about what is causing this.
Thanks!
If he tested it properly for you by getting under the car and applying a meter to the sensor, then okay.
Thanks again!
Can you please email me your complete contact info including a good number to reach you, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and your Edmunds username (or a link to this page). I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I had engine ticking on my 05 Colorado, as well as many of the other problems you mention. Head and valves were replaced under GM special warranty. Dealer advised me that the ticking noise was caused by a cracked manifold, which GM would not cover under the special warranty. The ticking is gone, but I poured $500+ more into my black hole.
As far as buying American and accepting that all vehicles have some problems...JD Powers ranked the Colorado (#2) and Canyon (#?) among the top 7 worst vehicles made in 2010 so it's reasonable to assume there's more than a handful of Colorado problems. My mileage is still under 100K, and the defects I've experienced are unacceptable and too long to list. At least other unsuspecting GM loyalists won't have to worry about buying a Colorado, as I heard GM is bailing on this truck. Apparently, I've been a loyal GM customer for too long and it's time to consider bailing on blind loyalty.
Good luck.
Happy New Year everyone!
Dealer says ther are no notices on this and the software is the latest version.
Anyone else have experience with this issue?
Harry
Has your dealer involved Technical Assistance? Have you spoke with Customer Assistance? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I was talking to a mechanic and he was telling me that this is not an uncommon problem that is starting to come up with the rack and pinion in the trucks. He was also telling me that GMC was trying to keep the problem on the down low. Now is it true I cannot say if he was right or not. The gmc dealer was unaware of the problem.
I would like to look further into your situation. Could you please email me your VIN and the involved dealership?
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I also experience a no-start phantom phenomenon which appears now and then. I'm currently experiencing this problem as well but I've taken the truck to the dealer 3 times over the last 2 years and they've never found the real source of the problem. However, they replaced the head under the GM special extended warranty. Guess what, it didn't fix the problem.
The truck has obvious electrical problems. Maybe GM or the Fed can help you. Don't expect much from the dealer. Good luck.