I'm guessing your truck is out of warranty so my question is this. You say your step-dad is a mechanic so why would you want to take it to a dealer and pay through the nose instead of lettind Daddy dear fix it?
"Passion", with respect to the shift into 4th gear, keep in mind that until the engine is up to full operating temperature, which can take a while if the weather is cold, the truck will not go into overdrive. My '97 Chevy S-10 4x4 was like that, and my currently owned '05 Canyon 4x4 operates the same way.
cuz he is really busy currently, and because i don't know if he's ever worked on the engine of a truck like mine.. i don't want him to f it up... plus, gm mechanics SHOULD know what they are doing. I hope. Besides, i have some connections at our local gm dealership, so i think that i am going to just try to get the truck hooked up to their scanner because i know that it will give more detailed info as to what exactly is wrong with the truck.. lol
"Shifty", I was just browsing a couple of the "discount" GM parts site on the net, looking for parts for my car. This Canyon/Colorado cylinder head discussion struck my memory, so I looked it up.
A 5 cyl. head is "discount priced" at $875 plus shipping. The 4 cyl. head is about $100 less. Valves are $14 and $16 for intake/exhaust, respectively.
To the poster, keep in mind, these prices are for brand new parts, but labor, of course, is extra. However, what I'm getting at, is an entirely new cylinder head should be around $12-1400, and I would think a competent mechanic should be able to do the job in 8-10 hrs.
I wonder if you found (and fixed) the problem that you had starting your 04 Colorado. I have a 05 Colorado 4wd, and every so often it fails to start. It sounds like it has no gas, or there's no current going to the spark plugs (it just turns but won't start). After a few minutes and few attempts, it starts and runs fine until the problem happens again. If you (or anybody reading this posting) finally found out what the problem was, could you advise on how to fix it?
Hello, You were having rough, shaky idle at 500 rpm? I have a 06 colorado extended cab 4x4. Has 90200 miles on it. When it idles it idles at 700 rpm, and it is quite rough, so i leave my foot on the gas idling about 1000 rpm, seems to help, until i take my foot off, and it goes down to about 300 rpm, then brings itself back up to normal. It has been cold here (like -45 with the windchill) and i do plug the truck in at night, but during the day when i am working and have no where to plug in it gets bloody cold. (no winter front on YET, but have one and putting it on tonight, hopefully it will make a big difference!!) And the past few days i have started the truck, and it runs REALLY rough, like shaking and sputtering, occasionally the CEL flashes at me, so i immediately turn the truck off, turn the key to ON, let everything cycle and then start it. Once started i hold the throttle so it idles at about 1500 rpm. This seems to alleviate the issue, until next time. But last night i went to leave, and had only let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes, threw her into reverse, and tried to go. It sputtered, shook, and i thought it was going to stall, but once again, the CEL light flashed at me. I did my little routine of turning it off, etc etc etc. The truck did this to me 1 or 2 more times. It is like it is starving for fuel. But with these trucks, it is not possible to change the fuel filter unless you take the fuel tank out and replace the pump... (stupid GM design).
I am really getting fed up with this truck. I have only had it for a year and a half!!! This is the 3rd issue that i have posted on this forum, none of which are solved yet.
That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 201k miles, better change mine again.
That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post-(I gave detailed instructions, search by my username)- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 210k miles, better change mine again
well, see, about the fuel filter.. I work in a parts store and i checked in our cataloging, for an 06 colorado, 3.5 L 5 cyl, 4x4, etc, there is no listing for exterior fuel filters. There is a note beside where the part number should be which reads "in order to change the fuel filter, the fuel pump must be changed. Because it is located in the gas tank." I found this statement in Wiki-answers when i searched fuel filter in 06 chevy colorado: For the 04-05 Colorado, the filter is attached to the front of the gas tank by a black plastic "harness." It's clearly visible with a quick glance under the truck, on the driver's side. It'll have a black line going in and one coming out. It is recommended that they be changed every 25,000 miles, according to the GM maintenance schedule. For the 06+ models, the fuel filter is inside the gas tank and is supposed to be maintenance free.
Plus, from my inspections under the truck, i have not located the filter, and I know what to look for. I will double check with my mechanic tho, but i am damn sure that they are only in the tank.. sorry to say.
My truck keeps increasing and decreasing on the rpm at idle. I took it to O'Reillys" and they gave me the codes P0449/P0455. I believe it is a vacuum leak but I see no problems with any lines. Can someone please help me out? The truck only has 60,000 miles on it.
Yep, those codes suggest a vacuum leak in the EVAP system:
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
* To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light. Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals will allow less pressure into the EVAP system. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner. * A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system. * To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT. * Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
RUN do not walk to the dealer - there is a problem with the cylinder head but they just told be it would be $2300 to fix because they have a special warrentee program for this problem (the intake valves get burned by ethanol laced fuel which cause carbon buildup in the throttle body and other problems) but once the odometer clicks over 100K they will not touch it, so I missed it by a month .. dont make the same mistake
i donno, i will have to check it out when i get a chance to get the truck on the hoist. But i would think that my cataloging at work would show a filter for the truck if it had one.. but i swear, nothing comes up. I will check if anything comes up for an 05, maybe it will. Who knows.
And as for running to the dealer instead of walking, i am too late. Truck has 90300 miles on it, that is about 150,000 kms... =( Unfortunately i am too late. I was going to school everyday last year, so i put ALOT of miles on the truck. (about 3 hours of driving everyday minus weekends and holidays)
I am curious about this- ethanol isn't "laced" in fuel, it exists in almost all fuel sold today, exept at some marinas where they sell ethanol-free fuel from some older boats(expensive). All vehicles built in the last 10 years at least have been engineered to run with a percentage of ethanol in the fuel.
are you sure about this?? Please I pray that you are right. You don't think it has anything to do with the speed sensor or I may need to have the transmission flushed or anything like that?? You think it has a lot to do with the cold weather, and the engine has to be at a certain temperature? I was going to take it to a machanic tomorrow and let him run some test. I just spent 368.00 to have the cam shaft actuator replaced. I'm gonna still do some research also. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
Hi, i had this same problem, i took mine to the dealer and they replaced the Cam Shaft Actuator. Said I had a lot of oil build up, and on the cam shaft act. there are little screans wires on it that the oil flows through, and they were missing. They replaced that, and said if I didn't get the engine flushed it may last for a while it may not, but I didn't have 600.00 bucks to give them. I just did have enough to give them to replace the CSA, cost almost 400.00 bucks. I hope this help. GMC also have a recall on the engine intake valve seat, but they would not replace mine, said all that what you were explaining did not have anything to do with the recall. but the recall stated everything that my truck was doing, and yours. So, let me know, what you find out. Oh! when they replaced the part, it stop the problem, but not sure for how long, and it's been almost a month or two now, I've also, changed my oil again within that months time. I used also a 5 min flush to help, don't know if it helped or not. Good luck, hope this help.
"Passion", as I said, both my '97 S-10 and my '05 Canyon are vehicles that I drove primarily in the winter, when the outside temps are pretty cold. They both exhibited the same operation.
My morning commute to work was such that I drove 3-4 miles at 40MPH or below, which is below the converter "lock-up" point, before I got to the expressway. That length of drive usually was enough to get the engine almost up to temp, so when I got to the expressway, for the major portion of my drive, the truck would shift into "OD" pretty much right away.
However, on my trip home, it was only about a mile from my parking lot to the expressway, and of course the engine wasn't up to temp yet, so the truck wouldn't shift to OD until I was another 2-3 miles down the road. This wasn't something that was spelled out in the owner's manual, but simply something I observed in daily driving.
Getting the transmission flushed, however, isn't a bad idea. I strongly believe in preventative maintenance, at least because I own, rather than "rent" (lease). Therefore, I drop the tranny pan, and change the fluid and throw in a fresh fliter, every couple of years. However, it's inexpensive for me, as I do all my own work.
O.k. thank you so much. That is exactly what my truck does. O.k so I have another question that deals with this same problem. O.k, say for instinct, when it shifts into OD, that last shift we are talking about, right. Say i get ready to pass someone, and I get in the gas tank to pass them, the rpm hand goes very high and the engine sounds rough when the rpm hand is up to the #3 or maybe a little higher. Should it do this even when the motor temperature is normal? I know I'm asking a lot of stupid questions, but, I don't need my truck to put me down right now without any money. If the lord bless me to see the summer again, i'm gonna try to remembet to monitor this, see if this problem occurs in the summer time.
When you're accelerating to pass another vehicle, the truck's computer will sense the position of the accelerator pedal, as well as the engine vacuum, and downshift the transmission (at least it will do this with an automatic). The engine speed naturally goes up, due to the shift to the lower gear, as well as how far you're pushing the gas pedal.
The Canyon/Colorado 5 cylinder has a "redline" (max speed) of about 6000 RPM. This is indicated by the "red zone" on your tachometer. The engine should be "reasonably" smooth up to this speed, however as you rev it that high, the engine will naturally get louder. If the computer and transmission are functioning correctly, the engine will rev up to the "redline", but not exceed it. (again, assuming it's an automatic).
Revving it that high, in normal circumstances, shouldn't hurt it, but if you do this continuously, you'll shorten the life of the engine, due to the added wear and tear. Also, I wouldn't recommend "leaning on" the truck until it's fully warmed up....
Hey All, I've read thru and noticed a few people have asked a few questions and I may be able to help. I've owned a 06 Crew cab 4X4 since new. Only major issue I've com across is the cylinder head issue. Originally my check engine light was going on and off every couple of days. I called the dealership and they were not concerned and said if I was around to come in and they'd hook up the TECH2 to it but it was most likely a sensor. When I took it in they ended up ripping it apart and said the head was no good and cylinder 2 was misfiring, all cylinders were losing compression. This was taken in on Dec 17/09 at 75,000 KMS. they said this has probably been doing this for some time. They told me to continue to drive it until they got the part in to fix it. Of course trying to get set up for a rental over the holidays is impossible and I ended up waiting till Jan 13/10. I just got a call and it should have taken 1 1/2 days but now I won't see it till the 18th b/c of the weekend. although this is a pain in my [non-permissible content removed], from what I've been told I have two options: 1. I go through the GMPP and pay a $200 deductible but a rental is free OR 2. There is a special clause that I can use and I do not pay the deductible but pay for the rental
Hi, i had this same issue, but them sorry SOB's would not replace mine, and I got a recall letter on this issue. The only thing they did was change out the cam shaft acuator, and changed the oil. Said I had a lot of oil builded up in my engine :surprise: , it didn't look like it to me. I paid them almost 400.00 to do that . Then they wanted to flush out the engine also, the total cost would have been about 600.00. I had them to replace the part, but no flushing I didn't have that kind of money on me. When they replaced that part, the light went off, unless they unpluged it, not sure I wasn't back there when they were working on it. An the hesitation and vibration and stalling stop. But, my engine still runs kind of rough, and the shifting of the last gear is kind of slow, not sure if it does that when it's cold weather or not, but i will keep a check on it, when the weather warms up. If it last that long. I'm glad that you are getting your repaired.
See, where I got lucky is that I have always dealt with the same dealership. I explained to them that this had happened previously, the light going on and off, and that I have always done all recommended work minus the transmission flush. They also know that when I do bring in the truck, I'm serious about getting the work done. I'm very particular about my truck and do the best I can to keep it in top shape. Another argument was the fact that this seems to be a common issue, though the dealership claims that my case is only the third that they personally have seen. I have had no issues with the dealership itself, but with the fact that GM seems not to be doing much about the issue :mad: . I was also told that I had to pay for the oil change, which really is no big deal to me as I was going to run it in for a oil change this month anyway. Another thing is I did notice that my check engine light was out even after the SA told me that it would be on, which makes me think the same as you, they must have unplugged it. I never noticed a difference in the engine and I spoke to several dealerships and they all said the most common is the vibration and rough idle. I did notice that my gas mileage quickly deteriorated and I wasn't even getting close to the the gas mileage that I once was. I did take it to another mechanic and was told the same as the dealership, so I do know that what they say it is, is actually the problem.
Thank you very much, I am taking it up to the mechanic to have them smoke test it for me. Again, thankyou. I will keep an eye out for where the leak is at.
the low idle was a common problem on these engines. Actually, the real problem is that the accelerator is sticking (although this is not as evident as the low idle; this is why you feel the surge, instead of a smooth acceleration. The low idle is a by-product of this problem). The problem is due to hydrocarbon (sludge) buildup inside the throttle body, and possibly the air flow sensor. He cleaned both (I assume with something like common carb cleaner?).
I agree, no vehicle or manufacturer is perfect but my personal experience is this, by far the Japanese brands I've owned over the last 25 years have been superior to the American products. I've owned one new Honda only, quite good overall but had terrible brake problems and a camshaft issue, that was back in 1982. That car managed 240,ooo kilometers. I decided to try a Ford :lemon: product next and spend my money on 'home' brands. I factory ordered that truck and had endless problems, in fact the truck was in the shop being repaired literally half the time I owned it which was only 3.5 months. I traded it in since I needed something far more reliable. My next choice was a Toyota. I know now why Toyota has the reputation they do. By far the best vehicle I have ever owned. It wasn't loaded with electrical gadgets so there was less potential for issues to creep up but my experience with this car was so much better than anything I'd ever owned I went back and bought 2 more over the years. I have had very good luck with Toyota's, they are built to last. If you plan to buy one and keep it for years it may well be worth the extra expense to pay more when its new but to buy one second hand is almost a crazy proposition, the prices are ridiculously high, you may as well buy a new one. Lately I have been researching the Canyon 3.5 & 3.7 and was thinking of buying one but I have read some alarming issues that these trucks have in the 3.5 & 3.7 litre engines. I hope current owners are having good luck getting their problems dealt with. If a light bulb burns out its normally not much to worry about but engine teardowns to fix major problems is pretty time consumming and frustrating and not something I ever had to concern myself with during the time I had Toyota products. The more I read the more likely I am to purchase another Toyota even with the publicity over their current recall notice. I was all set to try my first GM product but I'm apprehensive. I really do want to spend my money here at home on products built here by Canadians and Americans but the quality is an on-going concern. What ever happened to the indestructable Chevy's of the 50's and 60's?
Many of the supposed Japanese autos have a higher proportion of PARTS made in the U.S. as well as being assembled here, such as our Camry in Kentucky.
Make/Model Domestic-parts content Assembly location: Ford Taurus - 90 percent - Chicago Lincoln MKS - 85 percent - Chicago Toyota Sienna - 85 percent - Princeton, Ind. GMC Savana 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo. Chevrolet Express 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo. Buick Lucerne - 81 percent - Detroit Chevrolet Malibu - 80 percent - Kansas City, Kan. Honda Odyssey - 80 percent - Lincoln, Ala. Toyota Avalon - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky. Toyota Tundra - 80 percent - San Antonio Toyota Venza - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky. http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&subject=ami&story=amMade0709-
Over 60% of the consumer goods we buy here are made by "U.S." companises which are owned by European conglomerates as subsidiaries, never mind those owned by Japanese companies and elsewhere than Europe. At least U.S. workers have jobs and the investment money comes here (although profits go overseas, of course)--I suppose.
Just had our Camry accelerator shim placed today after an oil change. Out in 1-1/2 hrs. Excellent auto. Last summer when we were choosing between a Chevy and a Camry, our master mechanic friend from church said it was a "no brainer"-- get the Camry and we'd never see him in the shop, just church.
Haven't had any further 2006 Canyon problems since pedal malfunction message about six months ago. But I perhaps it is the computer gliching up on start-up. I've three messages and it is only on start-up in cooler, wet weather. I pushed the brake once by mistake when I was turning the key and got a break-error message which disappeared when I turned off and restarted the truck. Idle is GREAT thankfully. Made and operated in Louisiana. But from all the complaints of owners who seem to live up North, maybe it just needs to be run in warmer weather, perhaps to burn off that Ethanol residue, if that has anything to do with it. Also avoiding Ethanol gas whenever possible to avoid sludge build-up.
Since my original post (August 09: #368), I've received a few helpful tips, suggestions, and a wealth of information regarding the various problems associated with the GM Chevy Colorado. Thank you to all who have provided insight.
I contacted GM corporate about my irregular engine starting problems and constant ticking noise. After disclosing my knowledge obtained on this forum of their special warranty policy, a congenial CSR issued me a case and policy number without much hassle and further suggested taking my truck to an authorized dealer to determine whether my mechanical problems were associated with covered provisions.
Of course, the policy only covers defective designated items (head, valves) which can only be determined after a professional GM mechanic's diagnosis (about $150.00). Upon diagnosis, I was advised that the head and intake valves needed replacement and would be covered (parts, labor) under the special GM policy - fortunately.
Unfortunately, the dealer has since determined that my ticking noise was associated with a cracked exhaust manifold which will not be covered by GM and will cost me ~ $500.
I ask all on the forum...how does an exhaust manifold crack? I've never seen a cracked one in 30+ years of tinkering with cars. Cast iron, right?
Furthermore, I was told that the timing chain needs to be replaced. I've been without a vehicle now for a week and counting (no rental supplied) and as you might imagine, I continue to ponder my purchase of Pandora's box.
I told GM that I've had the ticking from day one and argued that a cracked exhaust manifold is an inherent defect from the factory, not a wear and tear issue. I pleaded my case for a no cost replacement to no avail as the truck has exceeded (88K) the original warranty. Their CSR said I might try barking up the hill if I could provide documented evidence of the problem within the 3-36 warranty.
Any suggestions? Is there an end in sight? Anybody familiar with lemon laws? Is a flare my best option?
Special warranty recipients with engine problems beware!
I'm very surprised that people stay faithful to a product that fails on such a grand scale.
In my last post I commented on my satisfaction with earlier Toyota products. In 1990 the Toyota I bought was bullet proof. The 1998 Corolla was up there at 90%. Although I found that car annoyingly underpowered for freeway travel, I didn't keep it long, I bought a Mazda. In 2003 I bought a new Matrix, clever design but also underpowered for the mass. I had a 2007 Tacoma SR5 Access cab for two years which I liked. I would still have it but the fuel costs were alarming back during 2008 when it peaked at $1.47 per litre. My monthly commuting costs were outrageous. From an environmental standpoint its shear glutony to commute in a 6cyl or 8cyl anyway so parting with the Tacoma was not difficult.
I remember, more than once, talking with staff at Toyota dealerships saying the quality was not top notch like it used to be. Something deteriorated when the Cambridge plant opened in the late 90's, growing pains maybe? The tacoma is a California assembly so has the North American input spoiled the quality? Maybe.
Now, the garage has two Mazda's parked in it. Both made in Japan and sent here assembled. Very happy with them both. The reports on this site for owners of Canyons and Colorados have been a flashback to the days of dealing with the terrible Ford Ranger truck :lemon: I bought in 1990. Thankyou all for helping me with this decision. I hope you have 100% success at the dealership repairing your GM trucks- Canyons and Colorados.
I'm surprised that people still believe the myth that Asian products are far superior to American products. This current problem with Toyota is not the first time. Back about 2000, Toytota had massive problems with engine sludging because of a design flaw in the engines. Toyota refused to step up to the plate and fix the problem until a class action lawsuit was threatened. They chose instead to claim that thousands of owners simply were not maintaining their cars properly. So much for the Toyota myth.
the problem with Asian products is that they are NOT superior to the products from the big 3 its that every problem with them is that it has always been reported in the back of the newspapers instead of the front pages like everytime the big 3 hiccup it is page one news. The big 3 has been the top companies for so long that news and TV love to hit them when they are down causing all this false bull about them being bad products. They made some bad stuff for a while back in the 80's but it didn't take to long for them to figure out that it hurt the bottom line (profit) but thanks to the news they were never given the chance to redeam themselves until wallstreet created the big mess with no credit so no one could buy a new car hence their downfall. If you really followed the news you would have known that the [non-permissible content removed] lost many billions too, but their govenments helped them out where ours choose to let them sink before helping them. Problem is the young people were never taught to buy american products from american companies as this is what benefits this country not sending all their money to Japan or somewhere else. Yes the Chevy colorado/Gmcs may not be perfect but you always will know when you step on the brake that it is going to stop. I don't care what Toyota does with all their lying through the years telling their customers that there is no problems that it is their fault that now they tell us that they have fixed the problems that just happen to be on almost every vehicle they build that everything is going to be fine. I bet that in 2 years this same stuff will come back again to haunt them as I don't believe they have fixed the problems. Example, my sister had a 80's Camry that looked great but her mechanic told her on its last oil change the underside framework was so rusted he felt it was unsafe to drive. Then in the early 2000s Toy0ota had rust problems on their truck frames and fixed them for people who knew about it and claimed that all was now well only to find out that it is still a problem with new trucks along with driveshafts that are failing and breaking apart. Just think what could happen if the driveshaft gives away at 70 mph. You could end up being a world class pole vaulter going down the highway.
Had a pastor who just couldn't buy a Japanese product because of WWII. (But he never said he couldn't buy a German product.) Toyata Camry AND Canyon both running fine here. I once owned Ford Pinto (gas tank), Chevy X car with the poor paint finish (the finish started rusting out at two years), a 1992 Dodge van (same problem) and a 1996 Ford Taurus (ignition switch unprotected hanging down at the bottom of the engine block and bad head gasket). Japanese products are at least no worse.
I have a 05 colorado and the check engine light stays on. replaced O2 sensor because the codes read PO1133 which is insufficient switching sensor bank 1 or sensor 1. This didn't work. Thought is was the O2 sensor took it back and got 1 from GM and I still have the same problem. Anyone have any suggestions???
Hello, I have a 2005 GMC Canyoun and I have been having some problems with it. For the past few months the engine would turn over but would not fire up, if I left it alone and came back 30 minutes later it would crank right up. Well now it will not crank at all and the dealership is telling me that it is the starter. Would the engine intake valve warranty extension have anything to do with this? Maybe because the engine wouldnt fire up and the starter kept trying to crank the truck it wore it out? Now they are saying 1500 bucks to fix. Any help would be much appreciated.
Sorry to say, I wish you good luck. In previous postings, I mention experiencing the exact problem as you. There are other Forum posts identifying similar Colorado start-up problems, speculating everything from cam shaft actuators to fuel pumps to theft deterrent device fuel cut-offs to injectors -- you name it, the list is large and the problem diagnosis remains undetermined. I had a GM engineer tell me it could be a defective key fob.
Over a period of several weeks during the summer, I experienced irregular no-start issues, although the truck would later start after approximately a 15-20 minute waiting period. The problem ceased for awhile but happened again in December and went away like a recurring phantom. My GM dealer had the truck for 2 weeks and could not repeat the symptom or ID any codes associated with problem.
I subsequently called GM to complain and inquired about the special warranty after reading about it on the Forum. They issued a policy# no questions asked so I took the truck back the dealer. The head and valves were determined to be in need of replacement, as well as a cracked exhaust manifold.
I haven't experienced the no-start gremlin since December, but I now have a mostly rebuilt engine since I took the initiative to contact GM. I suggest you call GM if your truck is under 100K to get the warranty policy and have a dealer check it out ASAP so that you won't take a bigger hit down the road.
No one can say if this issue was the monkey wrench causing my starting issues but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
My 05 Colorado with the I5 engine coded "misfire" on me. At about 59k on the warranty. I brought it to the dealer right away were they told me it needed a new head job. This was completly under warranty. OK they do the head and I am a happy customer, they cought a big one before the warranty is up at 60k. Now it is at 61k not even 2 thousand miles after they did the job and it is misfiring worse than ever! It`s running on 3 cyls! The dealer say`s if it was from their work it will be covered, but if not it`s on me! Has anybody like me already had the head replaced and now has a worse skip than ever? I cannot even drive this to the stealer I will have to tow it down on monday! By the way when I first got it back it was running like a bull, I could tell it had so much more compression in it. It was running very strong and I had no real issuses with this truck. I am very mechaniclly inclined and do all my own PM on it. So has anybody alread had their head replaced and now has even more problems with this engine? I am wondering if I should just unload this thing before I get the big one tucked to me!
Same problem with our 05 Colorado. Check Engine light kept coming on - had valves raplaced. Came back on again - finally diagnosed as a cracked manifold. Truck has 110,000 (90% highway). Will start the fight with GM, but don't see them doing anything. Will probably get the same crap about it being over the warranty, but how often do manifold crack ??
Actually, cracked exhaust manifolds on trucks built since the 1970s are pretty common, especially those that are used for towing. Keep in mind that these vehicles have a smog pump which pumps cold air into the manifold when on compression. Typically what happens is that the manifold gets very hot pulling heavy loads up a hill, then cold air hits it on the downhill slope, and crack. At least that's what I was told, and with cast iron, it makes sense. Of course, your truck may not have been used for heavy loads, in which case my post is nonsense. :-)
Hello, I am from GM Customer Service. When did the problems first occur with your vehicle? Do you currently have a case with GM? If so, what is the case number? What is the VIN on the vehicle? Thank you, Mariah GM Customer Service
Have an 08 canyon ( 5cyl) bought used from dealership. About 6 months ago I started smelling a strong gas oder at start up. Will take it to dealership as soon as the weather warms up so I can ride my motercycle, can not get loner vehicle form dealership. Has anyone experienced this problem? Called dealership,they say they have never heard of this before. Thanks
Yes, clean the throttle body. It is so simple to do, follow the instructions provided by longrunner1. Don't let a repair shop tell you that you need a new throttle body, like mine did. Just remove and clean it. Did it this weekend. Runs like new and no check engine light.
Not sure where to even begin or what post to even put this under. Several months ago my husbands 2005 GMC Canyon's check engine light came on. We took it to our trusted mechanic and he told us that it had a vaccume leak according to the codes. It idles really rough and sometimes dies at stop lights. After a week he still couldn't find the leak. After two weeks the engine started "clunking" when put into drive or reverse. At first we thought we might need to replace the transmission but yesterday it started whistling and squeeling really loudly when the gas was applied but stopped when pressure to the gas was removed. We wondered if it would do this while in park and nothing, until we rocked the vehicle a little, the clanking seemed to be coming from the joint at the drive shaft connect? Any idea's?? We only have two payments left and the vehicle has 70,000 miles on it.
Throttle body yes- from what you're describing, also check u-joints and the driveshaft carrier bearing. The clunk sounds like a u-joint to me; the factory ones aren't greaseable, so when you get new ones, make sure they have grease fittings. (220k miles and still going!)
Hello Tallow, I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you, Mariah GM Customer Service
Comments
It IS however, an overhead cam design, so it's a bit "pricier" that a typical OHV head.
A 5 cyl. head is "discount priced" at $875 plus shipping. The 4 cyl. head is about $100 less. Valves are $14 and $16 for intake/exhaust, respectively.
To the poster, keep in mind, these prices are for brand new parts, but labor, of course, is extra. However, what I'm getting at, is an entirely new cylinder head should be around $12-1400, and I would think a competent mechanic should be able to do the job in 8-10 hrs.
After a few minutes and few attempts, it starts and runs fine until the problem happens again.
If you (or anybody reading this posting) finally found out what the problem was, could you advise on how to fix it?
You were having rough, shaky idle at 500 rpm? I have a 06 colorado extended cab 4x4. Has 90200 miles on it. When it idles it idles at 700 rpm, and it is quite rough, so i leave my foot on the gas idling about 1000 rpm, seems to help, until i take my foot off, and it goes down to about 300 rpm, then brings itself back up to normal. It has been cold here (like -45 with the windchill) and i do plug the truck in at night, but during the day when i am working and have no where to plug in it gets bloody cold. (no winter front on YET, but have one and putting it on tonight, hopefully it will make a big difference!!) And the past few days i have started the truck, and it runs REALLY rough, like shaking and sputtering, occasionally the CEL flashes at me, so i immediately turn the truck off, turn the key to ON, let everything cycle and then start it. Once started i hold the throttle so it idles at about 1500 rpm. This seems to alleviate the issue, until next time. But last night i went to leave, and had only let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes, threw her into reverse, and tried to go. It sputtered, shook, and i thought it was going to stall, but once again, the CEL light flashed at me. I did my little routine of turning it off, etc etc etc. The truck did this to me 1 or 2 more times. It is like it is starving for fuel. But with these trucks, it is not possible to change the fuel filter unless you take the fuel tank out and replace the pump... (stupid GM design).
I am really getting fed up with this truck. I have only had it for a year and a half!!!
This is the 3rd issue that i have posted on this forum, none of which are solved yet.
:mad: :sick:
I found this statement in Wiki-answers when i searched fuel filter in 06 chevy colorado:
For the 04-05 Colorado, the filter is attached to the front of the gas tank by a black plastic "harness." It's clearly visible with a quick glance under the truck, on the driver's side. It'll have a black line going in and one coming out. It is recommended that they be changed every 25,000 miles, according to the GM maintenance schedule.
For the 06+ models, the fuel filter is inside the gas tank and is supposed to be maintenance free.
Plus, from my inspections under the truck, i have not located the filter, and I know what to look for.
I will double check with my mechanic tho, but i am damn sure that they are only in the tank.. sorry to say.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
* To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light. Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals will allow less pressure into the EVAP system. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
* A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
* To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT.
* Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
And as for running to the dealer instead of walking, i am too late. Truck has 90300 miles on it, that is about 150,000 kms... =(
Unfortunately i am too late. I was going to school everyday last year, so i put ALOT of miles on the truck. (about 3 hours of driving everyday minus weekends and holidays)
Thanks anyways!
My morning commute to work was such that I drove 3-4 miles at 40MPH or below, which is below the converter "lock-up" point, before I got to the expressway. That length of drive usually was enough to get the engine almost up to temp, so when I got to the expressway, for the major portion of my drive, the truck would shift into "OD" pretty much right away.
However, on my trip home, it was only about a mile from my parking lot to the expressway, and of course the engine wasn't up to temp yet, so the truck wouldn't shift to OD until I was another 2-3 miles down the road. This wasn't something that was spelled out in the owner's manual, but simply something I observed in daily driving.
Getting the transmission flushed, however, isn't a bad idea. I strongly believe in preventative maintenance, at least because I own, rather than "rent" (lease). Therefore, I drop the tranny pan, and change the fluid and throw in a fresh fliter, every couple of years. However, it's inexpensive for me, as I do all my own work.
The Canyon/Colorado 5 cylinder has a "redline" (max speed) of about 6000 RPM. This is indicated by the "red zone" on your tachometer. The engine should be "reasonably" smooth up to this speed, however as you rev it that high, the engine will naturally get louder. If the computer and transmission are functioning correctly, the engine will rev up to the "redline", but not exceed it. (again, assuming it's an automatic).
Revving it that high, in normal circumstances, shouldn't hurt it, but if you do this continuously, you'll shorten the life of the engine, due to the added wear and tear. Also, I wouldn't recommend "leaning on" the truck until it's fully warmed up....
I've read thru and noticed a few people have asked a few questions and I may be able to help. I've owned a 06 Crew cab 4X4 since new. Only major issue I've com across is the cylinder head issue. Originally my check engine light was going on and off every couple of days. I called the dealership and they were not concerned and said if I was around to come in and they'd hook up the TECH2 to it but it was most likely a sensor. When I took it in they ended up ripping it apart and said the head was no good and cylinder 2 was misfiring, all cylinders were losing compression. This was taken in on Dec 17/09 at 75,000 KMS. they said this has probably been doing this for some time. They told me to continue to drive it until they got the part in to fix it. Of course trying to get set up for a rental over the holidays is impossible and I ended up waiting till Jan 13/10. I just got a call and it should have taken 1 1/2 days but now I won't see it till the 18th b/c of the weekend. although this is a pain in my [non-permissible content removed], from what I've been told I have two options:
1. I go through the GMPP and pay a $200 deductible but a rental is free OR
2. There is a special clause that I can use and I do not pay the deductible but pay for the rental
Hope this helps out a few ppl.
Lately I have been researching the Canyon 3.5 & 3.7 and was thinking of buying one but I have read some alarming issues that these trucks have in the 3.5 & 3.7 litre engines. I hope current owners are having good luck getting their problems dealt with. If a light bulb burns out its normally not much to worry about but engine teardowns to fix major problems is pretty time consumming and frustrating and not something I ever had to concern myself with during the time I had Toyota products. The more I read the more likely I am to purchase another Toyota even with the publicity over their current recall notice.
I was all set to try my first GM product but I'm apprehensive. I really do want to spend my money here at home on products built here by Canadians and Americans but the quality is an on-going concern.
What ever happened to the indestructable Chevy's of the 50's and 60's?
Make/Model Domestic-parts content Assembly location:
Ford Taurus - 90 percent - Chicago
Lincoln MKS - 85 percent - Chicago
Toyota Sienna - 85 percent - Princeton, Ind.
GMC Savana 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
Chevrolet Express 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
Buick Lucerne - 81 percent - Detroit
Chevrolet Malibu - 80 percent - Kansas City, Kan.
Honda Odyssey - 80 percent - Lincoln, Ala.
Toyota Avalon - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
Toyota Tundra - 80 percent - San Antonio
Toyota Venza - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&subject=ami&story=amMade0709-
Over 60% of the consumer goods we buy here are made by "U.S." companises which are owned by European conglomerates as subsidiaries, never mind those owned by Japanese companies and elsewhere than Europe. At least U.S. workers have jobs and the investment money comes here (although profits go overseas, of course)--I suppose.
Just had our Camry accelerator shim placed today after an oil change. Out in 1-1/2 hrs. Excellent auto. Last summer when we were choosing between a Chevy and a Camry, our master mechanic friend from church said it was a "no brainer"-- get the Camry and we'd never see him in the shop, just church.
Haven't had any further 2006 Canyon problems since pedal malfunction message about six months ago. But I perhaps it is the computer gliching up on start-up. I've three messages and it is only on start-up in cooler, wet weather. I pushed the brake once by mistake when I was turning the key and got a break-error message which disappeared when I turned off and restarted the truck. Idle is GREAT thankfully. Made and operated in Louisiana. But from all the complaints of owners who seem to live up North, maybe it just needs to be run in warmer weather, perhaps to burn off that Ethanol residue, if that has anything to do with it. Also avoiding Ethanol gas whenever possible to avoid sludge build-up.
I contacted GM corporate about my irregular engine starting problems and constant ticking noise. After disclosing my knowledge obtained on this forum of their special warranty policy, a congenial CSR issued me a case and policy number without much hassle and further suggested taking my truck to an authorized dealer to determine whether my mechanical problems were associated with covered provisions.
Of course, the policy only covers defective designated items (head, valves) which can only be determined after a professional GM mechanic's diagnosis (about $150.00). Upon diagnosis, I was advised that the head and intake valves needed replacement and would be covered (parts, labor) under the special GM policy - fortunately.
Unfortunately, the dealer has since determined that my ticking noise was associated with a cracked exhaust manifold which will not be covered by GM and will cost me ~ $500.
I ask all on the forum...how does an exhaust manifold crack? I've never seen a cracked one in 30+ years of tinkering with cars. Cast iron, right?
Furthermore, I was told that the timing chain needs to be replaced. I've been without a vehicle now for a week and counting (no rental supplied) and as you might imagine, I continue to ponder my purchase of Pandora's box.
I told GM that I've had the ticking from day one and argued that a cracked exhaust manifold is an inherent defect from the factory, not a wear and tear issue. I pleaded my case for a no cost replacement to no avail as the truck has exceeded (88K) the original warranty. Their CSR said I might try barking up the hill if I could provide documented evidence of the problem within the 3-36 warranty.
Any suggestions? Is there an end in sight? Anybody familiar with lemon laws? Is a flare my best option?
Special warranty recipients with engine problems beware!
In my last post I commented on my satisfaction with earlier Toyota products. In 1990 the Toyota I bought was bullet proof. The 1998 Corolla was up there at 90%.
Although I found that car annoyingly underpowered for freeway travel, I didn't keep it long, I bought a Mazda. In 2003 I bought a new Matrix, clever design but also underpowered for the mass. I had a 2007 Tacoma SR5 Access cab for two years which I liked. I would still have it but the fuel costs were alarming back during 2008 when it peaked at $1.47 per litre. My monthly commuting costs were outrageous. From an environmental standpoint its shear glutony to commute in a 6cyl or 8cyl anyway so parting with the Tacoma was not difficult.
I remember, more than once, talking with staff at Toyota dealerships saying the quality was not top notch like it used to be. Something deteriorated when the Cambridge plant opened in the late 90's, growing pains maybe? The tacoma is a California assembly so has the North American input spoiled the quality? Maybe.
Now, the garage has two Mazda's parked in it. Both made in Japan and sent here assembled. Very happy with them both.
The reports on this site for owners of Canyons and Colorados have been a flashback to the days of dealing with the terrible Ford Ranger truck :lemon: I bought in 1990.
Thankyou all for helping me with this decision. I hope you have 100% success at the dealership repairing your GM trucks- Canyons and Colorados.
Sorry to say, I wish you good luck. In previous postings, I mention experiencing the exact problem as you. There are other Forum posts identifying similar Colorado start-up problems, speculating everything from cam shaft actuators to fuel pumps to theft deterrent device fuel cut-offs to injectors -- you name it, the list is large and the problem diagnosis remains undetermined. I had a GM engineer tell me it could be a defective key fob.
Over a period of several weeks during the summer, I experienced irregular no-start issues, although the truck would later start after approximately a 15-20 minute waiting period. The problem ceased for awhile but happened again in December and went away like a recurring phantom. My GM dealer had the truck for 2 weeks and could not repeat the symptom or ID any codes associated with problem.
I subsequently called GM to complain and inquired about the special warranty after reading about it on the Forum. They issued a policy# no questions asked so I took the truck back the dealer. The head and valves were determined to be in need of replacement, as well as a cracked exhaust manifold.
I haven't experienced the no-start gremlin since December, but I now have a mostly rebuilt engine since I took the initiative to contact GM. I suggest you call GM if your truck is under 100K to get the warranty policy and have a dealer check it out ASAP so that you won't take a bigger hit down the road.
No one can say if this issue was the monkey wrench causing my starting issues but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Good luck.
I am from GM Customer Service. When did the problems first occur with your vehicle? Do you currently have a case with GM? If so, what is the case number? What is the VIN on the vehicle? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service