I have an '04 Accord EX-L A/T sedan and haven't heard any grinding at all unless the ABS is activated. It's my first Honda and a superb car.........Richard
In my opinion, a 1990 Honda is not wrth much money. If you enjoy driving the car today, then keep it and do small repairs if necessary. If a repair is $400 or more, then get a new car. Don't waste money on painting the car.
In the meantime, go look at new cars and decide what you will buy when your beloved Honda is ready to RIP.
Hello, I have a few questions regarding my 98 accord. I take great care of it with preventive maintance. Although a couple things have me concerned. One, my rotors. When I brake, my car shakes a little-coming from the front end. My brakes are still good, I am wondering if my rotors need resurfaced? And how did it happen? Also my car has a little over 95,000 miles on it and am wondering when I should change the timing belt? Is this belt visible to me just by looking at my engine? I am not sure where it is located? Also one last thing. My clearcoat is starting to burn off in different areas of my vehicle. So far these areas have all been discovered to be above the pin stripes that are located on the car. I also live in Florida and am wondering if it might be from the extreme temps and sun exposure. Either way it is something that I have to get taken care of but would like to know the cause and how to prevent something like this from happening in the future. Thank you for whoever responds to my questions. Sincerely, Heather
Man I cannot believe you people are still going over this.
CARS HAVE HAD ABS CHARGE&TEST NOISE SINCE THE EARLY 90s!!!!
My $38,000 Lincoln Continental does it, my neighbor's Mercedes E320 does it and so does my Honda Accord EXL.
If you go drive a Malibu, it will have it. If you go drive a Taurus, it will have it. If you do not like the one-time when you put it in drive and get moving sound of the ABS system charging and testing, then PULL THE FUSE, deal with the ABS light on the dash, and have fun in the rain and snow under heavy braking with a light car.
It is normal. Period.
Now - regarding "starting the car and having a sudden acceleration when cold" - I have said this before and this will be the last time I type it out. Future comments about a car surging when cold will get a reply with a URL.
When you start a car and the engine is cold (meaning like 140 degrees or lower) LEAVE IT IN PARK/NEUTRAL! LOOK at the RPM gauge... LISTEN to the engine... notice it is running at least 1000rpm. Now SIT THERE and WAIT a whole minute and watch the RPMs drop and hover right around 750.
The "cold start" situation of the car and the need for the engine to run at higher rpm until warmed up doesn't just up and change simply because you put the car in gear. It STILL needs to warm up a moment, and this is NOTHING NEW! Cars have been running with high idle and choke since the beginning of time! You CANNOT jump in a cold car and start driving it immediately. You are not supposed to anyhow... you should - and always should have - let a car run for a minute or two.
If you do not let a car warm up a moment like what has been recommended by every mechanic and manufacturer for every car since the beginning of time, then you have no reason to complain about sudden acceleration. This is completely natural.
Start the car cold... notice it runs probably close to 1500 rpm. Ok... fine... let it warm up. Go drive around, do whatever. Now find a parking lot, put it in park/N... rpms about 750, right? Ok... automatic or manual - put the car in first gear. Yes, first. Foot off brake... foot off gas... you are moving slowly around... look at the rpms.... right around 750, right?
Ok - now - let's simulate a "cold engine" situation... leave the car in 1st - auto or stick... press gas until rpms reach near 1500. Now how fast are you going?
Get it yet?
Cold engine = fast idle = travel faster in 1st. Warm engine = slow idle = travel slower in 1st.
"The "cold start" situation of the car and the need for the engine to run at higher rpm until warmed up doesn't just up and change simply because you put the car in gear. It STILL needs to warm up a moment, and this is NOTHING NEW! Cars have been running with high idle and choke since the beginning of time! You CANNOT jump in a cold car and start driving it immediately. You are not supposed to anyhow... you should - and always should have - let a car run for a minute or two.
If you do not let a car warm up a moment like what has been recommended by every mechanic and manufacturer for every car since the beginning of time, then you have no reason to complain about sudden acceleration. This is completely natural."
Ummm, sorry...have to disagree. Every manual for every car I've owned in the last ten years specifically said the opposite. No warm up needed. Wastes fuel, creates unnecessary air pollution. Maybe back in the old days with carbs...but certainly not now with the sophisticated fuel injection and engine control systems.
For grins...quote the text from your Accord owner's manual that says to let it warm up.
Hi, I am aware of the fact that Accords have a slight jerk in the initial gear shift. My accord was like that and it is now reaching 100K. I have changed my transmission fluid at 85K and since 96 K, I can clearly notice the gear shift/jerk at the first, second, third and fourth...I used to notice it when car reaches 20 miles/hr but now it is clearly discernible at 30 and 40mph when the gear shifts...does this mean that I am having a transmission trouble...Are these signs of the near-by transmission break down? Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.
Just because you didn't HEAR it doesn't mean it was not there. Pop the hood or stand outside and listen and you would likely hear it. I would really be surprised if you didn't feel it in the pedals/floorboard as well. Maybe they had better insulation than 90% of the other cars, but I doubt it.
Altair> If you start your car cold and it runs at 1000+ rpm plus - guess what - you need to let it warm up. Carbed or injected. If you don't do it, then you have no grounds to complain about going fast in the driveway/parking lot without your foot on the gas (as previous people have complained about) or about a lurch when taking your foot off the brake as it is not different than if you were revving your engine to a higher rpm yourself and letting your foot off the brake.
also meaning that it has been published in more trade rags than you can shake a stick at... but I will go through my owners manual when I get home.
Sorry, but you shouldn't jump into a car and start using it normal as soon as you turn the key anymore than you should a boat, jet plane, motorcycle, snowmobile, jet ski, or even electronics...all these things need to be warmed up before put through it's paces - and you know you do it, so why wouldn't you do it with a car?
What do you think would happen if your speakers and amps were cold in your home or car stereo and as soon as you flipped on the switch you cranked it up good and loud? Speakers are in fact motors, and if you throw big power through them as soon as it is turned on, you are gonna launch those cones across the room.
Do your $38,000 Lincoln Continental or your neighbor's Mercedes E320 also kicks the pedal while doing the ABS self-test so that the driver feels like something got broken under the pedal?
Yes, you can feel it in the pedals when the system charges and tests. In fact - you can feel it more than you can hear it.
Do you understand how ABS works? Electronics control & trigger MECHANICAL SOLENOIDS to apply & remove pressure to the brakes in excess of 10x per second. That means every time you tap/pump the brakes in order to stop or because someone jumps in the lane in front of you, mechanical devices under the hood and connected to the frame of the car do that same motion with your leg and consequential motions of the brakes a hell of a lot faster, harder and more accurate than you do and with massive repitition. That's a lot of work for such a small system... and not only do I think the thud/grrr is acceptable - I prefer to feel it so I know it is working.
The first post stated they noticed a "sudden acceleration".
I have noticed that with my 04 Accord, when first starting forward, or backing out of the garage, the car DOES accelerate on it's own. This is totally different from a "fast idle", this is a increase in RPMs for a just a second and again returning to fast idle while the car warms up.
I find this dangerous because the car lurches forward (or backward) on it's own. I have a narrow garage and have to maneuver around a parked car outside the garage, so it makes it somewhat of a challenge when the car speeds up on it's own. I disagree that I need to sit there for a minute or so before I can drive my car.
As far as the brakes, one of the common problems with disc brakes is the pulsation you feel. Having the rotors resurfaced (turned) should solve that problem. Hard braking can warp rotors giving the pulsation feeling. I have also seen rotors that developed an uneven layer of rust (causing bad pulsation), and although normal braking removes rust, these were so pitted that no braking would clean them off, and they were replaced. If the car was sitting for a while and now you feel the pulsation, they may clean themselves with time, but my guess is you will need to have them turned to get rid of it. Another thing that can warp rotors is lug nuts that were over or uneven torqued.
95,000 miles, your due for a timing belt!!! Yes, it may last for another 10,000 to 30,000+ miles but you don't want the repair cost if it does break. No, you can't see the belt without removing the black plastic cover, even if you could, there is no real signs that its ready to break.
As far as the paint, I'm assuming that the car sees alot of sun (in Florida not kept in a garage)? If so, any car is susceptible to the same failure. Some colors seem to do better, And if the car was ever repainted, they also tend to fail sooner.
Keeping the finish clean, waxed, and covered if all possible is the best you can do to protect it.
This "sudden acceleration" is exactly what I was trying to describe in my original post with limited success. When first putting in "D" or "R" as the car starts moving the RPM will actually increase and the car will accelerate for a short period. This is somewhat exacerbated by the sensitive brakes on the Accord as it is harder to control this sudden acceleration, especially in a small area such as a garage. Thanks for explaining it better than I could.
By the way I'm not bashing the Accord. I think it is an excellent car. But it's not perfect. Joon.
Since this acceleration problem is more then just an isolated occurance (at least 2 people notice it, so there are probably more), hopefully they will find a solution someday.
Now that I'm aware of it happening, I have learned to deal with it, but I still think it's something that can be corrected.
"I don't know about others on this forum, but I'm starting to wonder if Honda has lost a step or two? Their cars just don't seem to be as well made as they once were. Maybe its time to take another look at the American manufacturers."
Food for thought: Hondas are now made primarily in America with the exception of the Accord Hybrids and a few of the other more expensive model cars. I noticed that the cars, specifically the Accords, are manufactured in Ohio and Kentucky, not in Japan as they once were. Acuras, however, are still manufactured in Japan.
I am thinking of buying an Accord 05 v6, but this forum is kinda scary, as was my first test drive in an EXL v6 auto trans. The car was simply unstable and Jerky. Poor braking capabilities, Poor acceleration. Took it back and asked to drive another, it was so bad. The second one was fine. By the way, try the manual version if you drive stick. Much better acceleration, shifts so cleanly you barely know you're driving a manual. Clutch requires no advanced skills whatsoever.
By the way, :sick: My cousin had an 02 Accord sedan and her trans blew at 30,000, not long after she bought it. Weird, eh?
I just had to offer my two cents after seeing several posts about speculation of Honda build quality and reliability... and this post does not necessarily reflect any post in particular.
My first Honda was a '98 Prelude which was built in Japan, and my second Honda is my current '05 6MT coupe. I must say the build quality on both Hondas was/is excellent, whether made in Japan or the US. Also, we must always remember that our cars are not flawless, no matter how much we pay. My Japanese-made Prelude blew a brake line and the second brake "circuit" didn't help to stop the car while going through an intersection. My American-made Accord needed a strut replaced. Our cars go through extreme temperature and climate changes, carry tremendous amounts of stress in acceleration, braking and cornering and we expect them to perform at all times. Even us humans have sick days, so why wouldn't we expect the same from the machines we build?
Every make & model has a certain character, and many times each individual car will offer a variation of what the "norm" should be. Sometimes we confuse these characteristics as problems. Some people like certain characteristics while others dislike the same thing, that's why there are so many different car manufacturers. In my experience with Hondas, I find that once I learn the characteristics of my own car and how it will react to certain situations (ABS test, TCS pulsations, feel of the suspension, sound of the windows rolling up & down, sound of the AC unit engaging, even the sound of the engine at idle, etc.) I tend to enjoy the ride a lot more. I would suggest to those that question things in their Hondas that they feel are problems, to go beyond this forum and research the operational mechanics behind the problem. Example: a disc brake rotor has warped. Chances are the rotor was in perfect form when it was installed so what made the rotor warp? A rotor can warp for many different reasons, and many of them are because of the driver. It could be something as simple as hosing down your wheels (and ultimately your rotor) for a car wash immediately after heavy brake usage in rush hour (sadly, I know from experience). Learn what could cause the rotors to warp before blaming it on the car or the manufacturer. Another example: ABS self-check. Many have made comments that other cars don't made a noise (and vibrate through the brake pedal) like the current Accords do. Think of it this way: VHS and Beta both played video on a TV screen, but each did it in their own different ways. It really doesn't matter how the ABS self-checks, what matters in the end is that the ABS system will function when needed and the driver needs to learn about the ABS characteristics of their car.
I post this not to preach, or say that Hondas (or Accords, in particular) are flawless. I just hope that folks will take a step back, learn more about the characteristics of their car, understand that no car will ever be perfect, and to (hopefully) embrace these characteristics as unique qualities of their own vehicle. Drivers should understand that many times the perceived problems they have with their car are actually the particular characteristics of that car. Obviously my blown brake line wasn't a characteristic of my Prelude but in general we all need to take a deep breath, realize that these are machines that are designed by humans (humans make mistakes) and driven by humans (humans make mistakes).
The backlighting of the Seat Heater switches on our 2 Accords - including the TCS switch on my V6 coupe - has gone out. More accurately, it's intermittent (rapping the switches sometimes lights them back up).
Some research shows that Honda employed "multiplex" wiring in the 7th gen Accord where more than one electrical function is accommodated within each wire. Idea was to reduce wire weight and complexity and increase - apparently without success - reliability.
I posted in the Coupe forum that my Radio/HVAC unit was recently replaced under "goodwill" (past 36k warranty) because backlighting for the entire center panel - Radio, HVAC, Seat Heaters - went out. The dealer also performed a "multiplex update," which cued me in on the multiplex angle.
If you're similarly affected, do as I did: after dealer refused to foot the bill because my car "wasn't serviced often enough" by them, I said that the HOA regional rep could approve goodwill replacements as per the web forums. Dealer contacted the HOA rep and got approval.
Back to my dim switches, I haven't decided what to do with them. Could be just bad LEDs or more of the multiplex wiring gremlins.
In your post #11933 you lamented about Accords built in North America possibly not being as good as those built in Japan. Of course that has been proven incorrect in many reviews and surveys over the years.
You may be interested to know that certain models of Toyotas are built in Kentucky and California, Nissans are built in Tennessee, Mercedes-Benzs are built in Alabama, BMWs and Hyundais are built in South Carolina, Subarus and Isuzus are built in Indiana, Mitsubishis are built in Michigan, Volkswagens are built in Mexico (were built in Pennsylvania), Daimler Chrysler, General Motors and Ford vehicles are built in Mexico, Canada and the US. The list goes on.
I am wondering what is meant by ABS testing. I have a 2000 V6 Accord and a 2001 Safari AWD cargo van with ABS and I never hear any noise unless I make the tires slide on a slick road, rain or snow.
Hello Mr_Shiftright, Thanks for the advice. Speaking of throwing money, I just replaced the alternator and battery after this freaking hurricane hit florida. The thing is that i get nice discounts from the used part store( i know the owner ) so i guess i will keep my car for a little while. I will fix the rusted parts and keep it. Here in South florida weather is not that harsh for cars.
Hello, all. I thought I'd throw everyone for a loop.
First, I own a 1992 Honda Accord, it has 131,000 miles and it's terrific car.
Problem: I've recently noticed some bucking problems usually on the freeway doing at least 60mph, it feels like someone slightly pushing the brakes, very weird. It doesn't happen all the time, perhaps about once or twice a week. I think it's related to the transmission, but I could be wrong.
This is my first time posting, any suggestions would be very much appreciative.
"In your post #11933 you lamented about Accords built in North America possibly not being as good as those built in Japan. Of course that has been proven incorrect in many reviews and surveys over the years."
Is that how you interpreted what I said? Read the post again. It is not a lamentation, instead I simply stated a fact, with no opinion whatsoever attached to it. The person I was replying to seemed to feel that "foreign" cars were not as reliable as they once were. I think it is great that the foreign car manufacturers are able to create jobs in the very economy that buys them. Kinda funny that the "American" manufacturers are making their cars overseas, yet enjoying the label of being "American." At the same time, Honda and others are manufacturing here, but many still view them as "foreign." Ah, the lovely world of complex definitions and trade laws! At least someone still makes cars in America, and it is a shame that it is not the American manufacturers. Acuras are made in Japan, as are the more expensive hondas. Not sure why, just a fact. I actually drive an American made 98 Toyota Camry and it is just fine except for a mysterious occasional stalling issue, which is why I am considering purchasing an American made 05 Accord. It is hard to tell if it would be a good buy considering the posts I have read about problems with these cars already, just weeks or days out of the dealer's lot. :confuse:
FYI, I was replying to a message from mstef, and quoted their words. I do not plan to ever buy another car produced by an "American" manufacturer, as those cars seem to require continuous repairs and have not served me well in the past.
To Stevennj1 and others who have purchased 2005 Accords:
What do you think of this car? I drove two, one drove really bad and the other exceptionally well. I like the styling and the features. How has this car behaved for you guys so far? I am 96% sure I will buy one this week. I have read about various problems with these cars and am a bit scared, but am even more scared to buy other brands. :confuse: Would you buy this car again after owning it for a while? Any feedback would be appreciated.
I recently purchased the EX V6 coupe and love it so far. I'm not sure I would let postings on a "Honda problems" message board sway me too much, because after all it's designed to attract people who have (or, in my case, think they may have) have a problem.
I took my new Honda on a 1,200 mile road trip a couple of weeks ago, and it performed very well and was very comfortable the entire trip. Even got 30MPG, which is pretty good considering I've got a lead foot.
The only substantive concern I found in my research is Honda's recent transmission problems on its Ohio-built Accords. But, from what I could tell, those problems seem to be mostly if not fully behind it. (I'm sure others who don't like Honda will offer a different opinion, but I think that statement is factually true.)
I do think the "fit & finish" of new Honda is probably not quite as good as the Honda I owned in the 1980s or my two prior Infinitis. There were several rotating minors noises and vibrations (all annoyance level stuff, not mechanical stuff) in the first few weeks, but they all have seemed to work themselves out. I also have been noticing lately that the clasp on the glove compartment is not fitted right, making it very hard to open and close. Just minor stuff that wouldn't stop me from buying the car again.
Sounds like you may have a plugged fuel filter. Lower speeds enough gas can pass through to keep up with demand, but freeway speeds its starts to starve for gas.
Actually, only some Acuras are built in Japan. Acura CL production began at East Liberty, OH in 1995 and Acura TL production began at Marysville, OH 1998. Acura MDX SUVs are also built in Ohio. There's a new smaller model Acura SUV that will be built there next model year.
Try to stay on topic everyone. Remember we are here to talk about specific Honda Accord problems and ways to solve them--not geopolitical theories of manufacturing.
1) Does anybody know to what extent does the slight tint on the windows which comes with the car block out the UV? The salesperson told me that the tint is called SOLAR GREEN and blocks out more than 90% of harmful UV. I'm in Southern California and am seriously considering tinting the car to block out all the harmful UV. (since it's like sunny every day)
guitar I have a 2000 Honda Accord and I have Transition eyeglasses and they will not turn dark in the car. Or in any of my families cars. So the glass must block out most of the UV.
i worked on a few hondas with that problem and it sounuds like a bad egr valve . if u feel it around 60mph under lite throttle most likey its that valve.
I drove up to my mailbox and turned off the car. I came back restarted it and tried to shift into drive to no avail. I pushed the button and it wouldn't go in. I had this problem once before when my battery was running low, but it doesn't seem to be low at this time. The only way I could get it into drive was by removing the cover around the gear shift and pressing the gear lock release. Does anyone have or has had a problem like this before? Need help or suggestions.
I just checked the Honda manual and there is absolutely no mention of warm-up. Also the current thinking is that excessive idleing not only does not warm up the car faster but significantly wastes fuel. Obviously there is a short warm-up period, but with modern electronics controlling choke and idle speed the warm -up time is much much quicker than cars from several decades ago.
Speaking of electronics, many are completley solid state and have no warm-up time at all. It is not like the cathode ray tubes of old, which did require warm-up time.
Speakers are not motors the are more like a solenoids which moves the speaker cone back and forth based on the power applied. There seems to be some confusion, speakers do not need to warmup . However, many stereo and audio video use power amplifiers with smoothing cpacitors which do need some time to build up to full power. Even this is ususlaly less than a couple of seconds.
One lady earlier said that here Honda dealer told her that her cell phone interferrred with the SRS air bag systems. According to the manual, this is incorrect information a cell phone does not cause any SRS problems.
Timing pointer must be aligned with the white mark on the flywheel. The cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.
i need to know which way to turn the bolt so it will loosen on the crankshaft of a 1989 Honda Accord LX? I can't even get it to turn. I've tried everything.
Yesterday, my 99 Accord would not start. Power was OK. Fuses OK. The engine would start - just not "turn over". That happened fora bout 10 attempts. After that, it started and has started since. Any thoughts on what that could have been? Thanks-
Recently purchased my first Honda (certified used '04 Accord LX Sedan with 24k miles). The car has an automatic transmission, but when I place the car in reverse and back up it sounds just like backing up in a car with a manual transmission (that whine noise that you hear with a manual transmission in reverse). I haven't heard this type of noise while backing since I last owned or rode in a vehicle with a manual transmission.
As this is my first Honda is this normal for Accord's with the automatic transmission?
Accleration in an AT car while it is changing gears is also nothing new, as there is a brief period where the vehicle is not engaged in any gear when going from R to D or D to R... During this brief period, when the load on the engine suddenly and drastically changes - the rpms will increase with the lighter load and those RPMs will be briefly sustained as it switches into the next gear.
Again - this is nothing new. Cars have been doing this for eons, and as I mentioned before when lazy people were complaining about the shudder while going from R to D and the car was still in motion - do not shift unless your car is COMPLETELY STOPPED and your foot should be planted FIRMLY on the brake. If you brakes are firmly, SAFELY applied as they should be, your car will not move, even if there were a sudden acceleration of several thousand RPM, let alone a couple hundred from a gear change.
That gear whine in a Honda auto trans seems to be one of their trademarks, good or bad. I have noticed that noise since the first automatic Honda I drove back in "79
Acceleration in an AT car while it is changing gears is also nothing new, as there is a brief period where the vehicle is not engaged in any gear when going from R to D or D to R... During this brief period, when the load on the engine suddenly and drastically changes - the rpms will increase with the lighter load and those RPMs will be briefly sustained as it switches into the next gear.
Re-read my post and you will see this is not the problem I'm describing at all. What I said is when the engine is cold (I understand the RPM is higher) and you engage the car from P to D or R (doesn't really matter which) as the car starts moving it is difficult to make it stop "on a dime". The reason is that the car starts accelerating and the brake is too sensitive. This is particularly troublesome if I have to maneuver in a tight spot, such as trying to get out of my garage in the morning.
You keep saying that this is nothing new. You are right that since the RPM is higher when the car is cold, some of this may be normal. What caught my attention, enough to post in this forum, is the intensity of this acceleration and the difficulty to stop when the engine and the brakes are cold. I have owned 10 plus cars in the past (including a 1985 Honda Prelude) and the only other car that I had such difficulty maneuvering in the garage was a 1982 Ford LTD -- when it was 15 years old and had 120,000 miles.
Again, I'm not bashing the Accord. I love my 05' EX AT 4cyl Accord, including the styling which many other people don't like. However, I don't think it is perfect. And I never expected it to be. And this sudden acceleration and sensitive brakes may be a real issue for some people.
Me again. I went through two tanks of gas and no change. On Friday, Aug.26 I decided to let a mechanic look at it. He began his search at 8 AM and finished the search on Monday at 9:30 AM. Could not find a thing wrong and said the engine is in great shape! We did know that I had a small crack in the CV boot and decided to fix what we knew was broken eventhough "CV" problems sounds different. Well that was the problem - there is no sound now and it steers like new.
Thanks for your help! They would have been a much cheaper solution.
I own a 1993 Honda Accord Special Edition that has a short in the volume switch which is causing a loud crackling noise when I adjust the volume. Also, the LED which displays the frequency of the radio station and the CD track number is no longer working. I tried contacting the dealer because I had heard that Honda had a program where they would send the radios back for refurbishing. however, the dealer told me that program was suspended a few years ago. Can anyone help me? I would love to get this thing fixed.
Another question, the car has "touring" tires from Bridgestone or BF Goodrich...one of them....would these tires cause vibrations and noise...what tires ride good and are quiet?
This roaring noise is very annoying ...any feedback pls????
Comments
In the meantime, go look at new cars and decide what you will buy when your beloved Honda is ready to RIP.
Sincerely, Heather
CARS HAVE HAD ABS CHARGE&TEST NOISE SINCE THE EARLY 90s!!!!
My $38,000 Lincoln Continental does it, my neighbor's Mercedes E320 does it and so does my Honda Accord EXL.
If you go drive a Malibu, it will have it. If you go drive a Taurus, it will have it. If you do not like the one-time when you put it in drive and get moving sound of the ABS system charging and testing, then PULL THE FUSE, deal with the ABS light on the dash, and have fun in the rain and snow under heavy braking with a light car.
It is normal. Period.
Now - regarding "starting the car and having a sudden acceleration when cold" - I have said this before and this will be the last time I type it out. Future comments about a car surging when cold will get a reply with a URL.
When you start a car and the engine is cold (meaning like 140 degrees or lower) LEAVE IT IN PARK/NEUTRAL! LOOK at the RPM gauge... LISTEN to the engine... notice it is running at least 1000rpm. Now SIT THERE and WAIT a whole minute and watch the RPMs drop and hover right around 750.
The "cold start" situation of the car and the need for the engine to run at higher rpm until warmed up doesn't just up and change simply because you put the car in gear. It STILL needs to warm up a moment, and this is NOTHING NEW! Cars have been running with high idle and choke since the beginning of time! You CANNOT jump in a cold car and start driving it immediately. You are not supposed to anyhow... you should - and always should have - let a car run for a minute or two.
If you do not let a car warm up a moment like what has been recommended by every mechanic and manufacturer for every car since the beginning of time, then you have no reason to complain about sudden acceleration. This is completely natural.
Start the car cold... notice it runs probably close to 1500 rpm. Ok... fine... let it warm up. Go drive around, do whatever. Now find a parking lot, put it in park/N... rpms about 750, right? Ok... automatic or manual - put the car in first gear. Yes, first. Foot off brake... foot off gas... you are moving slowly around... look at the rpms.... right around 750, right?
Ok - now - let's simulate a "cold engine" situation... leave the car in 1st - auto or stick... press gas until rpms reach near 1500. Now how fast are you going?
Get it yet?
Cold engine = fast idle = travel faster in 1st.
Warm engine = slow idle = travel slower in 1st.
Alright then.
"The "cold start" situation of the car and the need for the engine to run at higher rpm until warmed up doesn't just up and change simply because you put the car in gear. It STILL needs to warm up a moment, and this is NOTHING NEW! Cars have been running with high idle and choke since the beginning of time! You CANNOT jump in a cold car and start driving it immediately. You are not supposed to anyhow... you should - and always should have - let a car run for a minute or two.
If you do not let a car warm up a moment like what has been recommended by every mechanic and manufacturer for every car since the beginning of time, then you have no reason to complain about sudden acceleration. This is completely natural."
Ummm, sorry...have to disagree. Every manual for every car I've owned in the last ten years specifically said the opposite. No warm up needed. Wastes fuel, creates unnecessary air pollution. Maybe back in the old days with carbs...but certainly not now with the sophisticated fuel injection and engine control systems.
For grins...quote the text from your Accord owner's manual that says to let it warm up.
My prior two cars with ABS (both Infinitis, 1992 & 1996 model years) did NOT make any such noise. And the ABS worked fine in spite of their quietness.
I am aware of the fact that Accords have a slight jerk in the initial gear shift. My accord was like that and it is now reaching 100K. I have changed my transmission fluid at 85K and since 96 K, I can clearly notice the gear shift/jerk at the first, second, third and fourth...I used to notice it when car reaches 20 miles/hr but now it is clearly discernible at 30 and 40mph when the gear shifts...does this mean that I am having a transmission trouble...Are these signs of the near-by transmission break down? Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.
Altair> If you start your car cold and it runs at 1000+ rpm plus - guess what - you need to let it warm up. Carbed or injected. If you don't do it, then you have no grounds to complain about going fast in the driveway/parking lot without your foot on the gas (as previous people have complained about) or about a lurch when taking your foot off the brake as it is not different than if you were revving your engine to a higher rpm yourself and letting your foot off the brake.
This is common sense.
Sorry, but you shouldn't jump into a car and start using it normal as soon as you turn the key anymore than you should a boat, jet plane, motorcycle, snowmobile, jet ski, or even electronics...all these things need to be warmed up before put through it's paces - and you know you do it, so why wouldn't you do it with a car?
What do you think would happen if your speakers and amps were cold in your home or car stereo and as soon as you flipped on the switch you cranked it up good and loud? Speakers are in fact motors, and if you throw big power through them as soon as it is turned on, you are gonna launch those cones across the room.
Do you understand how ABS works? Electronics control & trigger MECHANICAL SOLENOIDS to apply & remove pressure to the brakes in excess of 10x per second. That means every time you tap/pump the brakes in order to stop or because someone jumps in the lane in front of you, mechanical devices under the hood and connected to the frame of the car do that same motion with your leg and consequential motions of the brakes a hell of a lot faster, harder and more accurate than you do and with massive repitition. That's a lot of work for such a small system... and not only do I think the thud/grrr is acceptable - I prefer to feel it so I know it is working.
I have noticed that with my 04 Accord, when first starting forward, or backing out of the garage, the car DOES accelerate on it's own. This is totally different from a "fast idle", this is a increase in RPMs for a just a second and again returning to fast idle while the car warms up.
I find this dangerous because the car lurches forward (or backward) on it's own. I have a narrow garage and have to maneuver around a parked car outside the garage, so it makes it somewhat of a challenge when the car speeds up on it's own. I disagree that I need to sit there for a minute or so before I can drive my car.
Mrbill
95,000 miles, your due for a timing belt!!! Yes, it may last for another 10,000 to 30,000+ miles but you don't want the repair cost if it does break. No, you can't see the belt without removing the black plastic cover, even if you could, there is no real signs that its ready to break.
As far as the paint, I'm assuming that the car sees alot of sun (in Florida not kept in a garage)? If so, any car is susceptible to the same failure. Some colors seem to do better, And if the car was ever repainted, they also tend to fail sooner.
Keeping the finish clean, waxed, and covered if all possible is the best you can do to protect it.
Mrbill
By the way I'm not bashing the Accord. I think it is an excellent car. But it's not perfect. Joon.
Now that I'm aware of it happening, I have learned to deal with it, but I still think it's something that can be corrected.
BTW, Mine is an "04 I4 auto.
Mrbill
Food for thought: Hondas are now made primarily in America with the exception of the Accord Hybrids and a few of the other more expensive model cars. I noticed that the cars, specifically the Accords, are manufactured in Ohio and Kentucky, not in Japan as they once were. Acuras, however, are still manufactured in Japan.
I am thinking of buying an Accord 05 v6, but this forum is kinda scary, as was my first test drive in an EXL v6 auto trans. The car was simply unstable and Jerky. Poor braking capabilities, Poor acceleration. Took it back and asked to drive another, it was so bad. The second one was fine. By the way, try the manual version if you drive stick. Much better acceleration, shifts so cleanly you barely know you're driving a manual. Clutch requires no advanced skills whatsoever.
By the way, :sick: My cousin had an 02 Accord sedan and her trans blew at 30,000, not long after she bought it. Weird, eh?
My first Honda was a '98 Prelude which was built in Japan, and my second Honda is my current '05 6MT coupe. I must say the build quality on both Hondas was/is excellent, whether made in Japan or the US. Also, we must always remember that our cars are not flawless, no matter how much we pay. My Japanese-made Prelude blew a brake line and the second brake "circuit" didn't help to stop the car while going through an intersection. My American-made Accord needed a strut replaced. Our cars go through extreme temperature and climate changes, carry tremendous amounts of stress in acceleration, braking and cornering and we expect them to perform at all times. Even us humans have sick days, so why wouldn't we expect the same from the machines we build?
Every make & model has a certain character, and many times each individual car will offer a variation of what the "norm" should be. Sometimes we confuse these characteristics as problems. Some people like certain characteristics while others dislike the same thing, that's why there are so many different car manufacturers. In my experience with Hondas, I find that once I learn the characteristics of my own car and how it will react to certain situations (ABS test, TCS pulsations, feel of the suspension, sound of the windows rolling up & down, sound of the AC unit engaging, even the sound of the engine at idle, etc.) I tend to enjoy the ride a lot more. I would suggest to those that question things in their Hondas that they feel are problems, to go beyond this forum and research the operational mechanics behind the problem. Example: a disc brake rotor has warped. Chances are the rotor was in perfect form when it was installed so what made the rotor warp? A rotor can warp for many different reasons, and many of them are because of the driver. It could be something as simple as hosing down your wheels (and ultimately your rotor) for a car wash immediately after heavy brake usage in rush hour (sadly, I know from experience). Learn what could cause the rotors to warp before blaming it on the car or the manufacturer. Another example: ABS self-check. Many have made comments that other cars don't made a noise (and vibrate through the brake pedal) like the current Accords do. Think of it this way: VHS and Beta both played video on a TV screen, but each did it in their own different ways. It really doesn't matter how the ABS self-checks, what matters in the end is that the ABS system will function when needed and the driver needs to learn about the ABS characteristics of their car.
I post this not to preach, or say that Hondas (or Accords, in particular) are flawless. I just hope that folks will take a step back, learn more about the characteristics of their car, understand that no car will ever be perfect, and to (hopefully) embrace these characteristics as unique qualities of their own vehicle. Drivers should understand that many times the perceived problems they have with their car are actually the particular characteristics of that car. Obviously my blown brake line wasn't a characteristic of my Prelude but in general we all need to take a deep breath, realize that these are machines that are designed by humans (humans make mistakes) and driven by humans (humans make mistakes).
Some research shows that Honda employed "multiplex" wiring in the 7th gen Accord where more than one electrical function is accommodated within each wire. Idea was to reduce wire weight and complexity and increase - apparently without success - reliability.
Ref: http://www.hondanews.com/CatID2006?mid=2002072936869&mime=asc
I posted in the Coupe forum that my Radio/HVAC unit was recently replaced under "goodwill" (past 36k warranty) because backlighting for the entire center panel - Radio, HVAC, Seat Heaters - went out. The dealer also performed a "multiplex update," which cued me in on the multiplex angle.
If you're similarly affected, do as I did: after dealer refused to foot the bill because my car "wasn't serviced often enough" by them, I said that the HOA regional rep could approve goodwill replacements as per the web forums. Dealer contacted the HOA rep and got approval.
Back to my dim switches, I haven't decided what to do with them. Could be just bad LEDs or more of the multiplex wiring gremlins.
Posting developments.
You may be interested to know that certain models of Toyotas are built in Kentucky and California, Nissans are built in Tennessee, Mercedes-Benzs are built in Alabama, BMWs and Hyundais are built in South Carolina, Subarus and Isuzus are built in Indiana, Mitsubishis are built in Michigan, Volkswagens are built in Mexico (were built in Pennsylvania), Daimler Chrysler, General Motors and Ford vehicles are built in Mexico, Canada and the US. The list goes on.
Sammy Castagna
Thanks for the advice. Speaking of throwing money, I just replaced the alternator and battery after this freaking hurricane hit florida. The thing is that i get nice discounts from the used part store( i know the owner
Thanks,
franics
First, I own a 1992 Honda Accord, it has 131,000 miles and it's terrific car.
Problem: I've recently noticed some bucking problems usually on the freeway doing at least 60mph, it feels like someone slightly pushing the brakes, very weird. It doesn't happen all the time, perhaps about once or twice a week. I think it's related to the transmission, but I could be wrong.
This is my first time posting, any suggestions would be very much appreciative.
Have the rest of a terrific weekend, everyone!
Is that how you interpreted what I said? Read the post again. It is not a lamentation, instead I simply stated a fact, with no opinion whatsoever attached to it. The person I was replying to seemed to feel that "foreign" cars were not as reliable as they once were. I think it is great that the foreign car manufacturers are able to create jobs in the very economy that buys them. Kinda funny that the "American" manufacturers are making their cars overseas, yet enjoying the label of being "American." At the same time, Honda and others are manufacturing here, but many still view them as "foreign." Ah, the lovely world of complex definitions and trade laws! At least someone still makes cars in America, and it is a shame that it is not the American manufacturers.
Acuras are made in Japan, as are the more expensive hondas. Not sure why, just a fact. I actually drive an American made 98 Toyota Camry and it is just fine except for a mysterious occasional stalling issue, which is why I am considering purchasing an American made 05 Accord. It is hard to tell if it would be a good buy considering the posts I have read about problems with these cars already, just weeks or days out of the dealer's lot. :confuse:
What do you think of this car? I drove two, one drove really bad and the other exceptionally well. I like the styling and the features. How has this car behaved for you guys so far? I am 96% sure I will buy one this week. I have read about various problems with these cars and am a bit scared, but am even more scared to buy other brands. :confuse: Would you buy this car again after owning it for a while? Any feedback would be appreciated.
I took my new Honda on a 1,200 mile road trip a couple of weeks ago, and it performed very well and was very comfortable the entire trip. Even got 30MPG, which is pretty good considering I've got a lead foot.
The only substantive concern I found in my research is Honda's recent transmission problems on its Ohio-built Accords. But, from what I could tell, those problems seem to be mostly if not fully behind it. (I'm sure others who don't like Honda will offer a different opinion, but I think that statement is factually true.)
I do think the "fit & finish" of new Honda is probably not quite as good as the Honda I owned in the 1980s or my two prior Infinitis. There were several rotating minors noises and vibrations (all annoyance level stuff, not mechanical stuff) in the first few weeks, but they all have seemed to work themselves out. I also have been noticing lately that the clasp on the glove compartment is not fitted right, making it very hard to open and close. Just minor stuff that wouldn't stop me from buying the car again.
Mrbill
Actually, only some Acuras are built in Japan. Acura CL production began at East Liberty, OH in 1995 and Acura TL production began at Marysville, OH 1998. Acura MDX SUVs are also built in Ohio. There's a new smaller model Acura SUV that will be built there next model year.
1) Does anybody know to what extent does the slight tint on the windows which comes with the car block out the UV? The salesperson told me that the tint is called SOLAR GREEN and blocks out more than 90% of harmful UV. I'm in Southern California and am seriously considering tinting the car to block out all the harmful UV. (since it's like sunny every day)
I have a 2000 Honda Accord and I have Transition eyeglasses and they will not turn dark in the car. Or in any of my families cars. So the glass must block out most of the UV.
Sammy Castagna
Speaking of electronics, many are completley solid state and have no warm-up time at all. It is not like the cathode ray tubes of old, which did require warm-up time.
Speakers are not motors the are more like a solenoids which moves the speaker cone back and forth based on the power applied. There seems to be some confusion, speakers do not need to warmup . However, many stereo and audio video use power amplifiers with smoothing cpacitors which do need some time to build up to full power. Even this is ususlaly less than a couple of seconds.
One lady earlier said that here Honda dealer told her that her cell phone interferrred with the SRS air bag systems. According to the manual, this is incorrect information a cell phone does not cause any SRS problems.
Cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
Timing pointer must be aligned with the white mark on the flywheel. The cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.
Hope that helps
Mrbill
Mrbill
Thanks-
As this is my first Honda is this normal for Accord's with the automatic transmission?
Again - this is nothing new. Cars have been doing this for eons, and as I mentioned before when lazy people were complaining about the shudder while going from R to D and the car was still in motion - do not shift unless your car is COMPLETELY STOPPED and your foot should be planted FIRMLY on the brake. If you brakes are firmly, SAFELY applied as they should be, your car will not move, even if there were a sudden acceleration of several thousand RPM, let alone a couple hundred from a gear change.
Mrbill
Re-read my post and you will see this is not the problem I'm describing at all. What I said is when the engine is cold (I understand the RPM is higher) and you engage the car from P to D or R (doesn't really matter which) as the car starts moving it is difficult to make it stop "on a dime". The reason is that the car starts accelerating and the brake is too sensitive. This is particularly troublesome if I have to maneuver in a tight spot, such as trying to get out of my garage in the morning.
You keep saying that this is nothing new. You are right that since the RPM is higher when the car is cold, some of this may be normal. What caught my attention, enough to post in this forum, is the intensity of this acceleration and the difficulty to stop when the engine and the brakes are cold. I have owned 10 plus cars in the past (including a 1985 Honda Prelude) and the only other car that I had such difficulty maneuvering in the garage was a 1982 Ford LTD -- when it was 15 years old and had 120,000 miles.
Again, I'm not bashing the Accord. I love my 05' EX AT 4cyl Accord, including the styling which many other people don't like. However, I don't think it is perfect. And I never expected it to be. And this sudden acceleration and sensitive brakes may be a real issue for some people.
Thanks for your help! They would have been a much cheaper solution.
Another question, the car has "touring" tires from Bridgestone or BF Goodrich...one of them....would these tires cause vibrations and noise...what tires ride good and are quiet?
This roaring noise is very annoying ...any feedback pls????
Thanks again!!
Gwen