I think I might have a similar problem. Over a couple of days my 94 2.0i Accord developed a strange knocking sound. It is intermittant and seems to occur when straightening after cornering. It doesn't happen all the time but normally occurs in 2nd gear at about 2000 rpm. The last work I had done on it was the offside CV boot 6months previously. When I looked under the car the new boot was fine but the nearside had gone completely. Having replaced that boot the problem still persists. I have just replaced the nearside CV joint as well but to no avail.
I am wondering if the knocking you experienced occured under similar circumstances and if you could feel the knocking through the floor? Similarly to how you describe your knocking, mine is not typical of CV joint failure...
If you or anyone else could help that would be very much appreciated.
ur best bet is to go salvage yard hunting possibly or ebay. maybe even possibly straight from the factory but i highly doubt they'll have that old of a part still in stock and it being a specific radio makes it even more unlikly. it would be cheaper and its really not that hard of a thing to replace yourself on a weekend. good luck.
are you saying that after a cold start, when u engage the gear of choice (R or D) that the engine is reving, or giving gas, and your brakes dont seem to be strong enogh to slow you as quikly as you'd like? hot or cold you hit the brakes you shouldnt have a problem, some are a little weaker at times but you should still be able to stop when ur holding the brakes shifting (as u do have to be holding the peddle to be able to shift) address that issue. now ur engine, is it reving high while idle? like long after a min. at least, (this is when ur fast idle valve is holding the thottle open to warm ur engine) or is it kicking in the extra gas just as u shift? is ur check engine light on? when was ur last tune up? im not trying to be smart or anything im just trying to get a little more detail out of ur problem so we can all help u diagnose the problem beter.
to get my crankshaft bolt of and change out the main hamonic balencer, i had to use a torch and dam near melt the bolt, not literaly but it was pretty hot, and i used a 3/8's breaker bar and a 2 ft section of pipe as extra leverage. pull towards the front of the car. lefty loosy righty tighty!!
I just bought 2005 EX V6 sedan and have exactly the same problem with CD player—constant hissing sound. (I can not hear that when radio or XM radio is on.) It becomes more obvious between the tracks and with classical musics becuase they are usually recorded at lower volume.
I brought my car back to the dealer and their "audio expert" agreed that there is a significant interference. He ran a test CD, and detected the noise coming around 16 kHz~17 kHZ, which he said is near the upper limit of our hearing range (also a very annoying sound).
We also played the test CD in other 2005 V6 Accords. I could not believe that some Accords had an even higher noise level than mine! Based on this, the audio guy refused to fix my CD player because he thought the noise was inherent in all Accords. But just because every V6 Accord shares it does not mean their CD players are not defective. It's very frustrating that $25,000 car does not have a functional CD player. Also I have not noticed this noise in my friend's 2004 V6 Accord.
Does any other V6 owners have this sort of problem?
i have been having trouble with my 1992 honda accord since i bought it. i takes it to the dealership to get something fixed and it ends up not being that problem at all. This time it deals with the accelerator. at times i can press on the gas and let off and the car is still acceleratorating until I press the brakes. well that problem is fixed for now, but it lead to a different problem. Now I press the gas petal and it does nothing. It feels as though the gas petal is not connected to anything. The car still shifts gears, but it coast. I'm hoping its not the transmission, but i don't know whats wrong.
I have an '05 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder; auto) with 3k miles. The problem I'm having is with the brakes. At low speeds they are SO sensitive that gently pressing on the brakes causes them to abruptly grab, jerking the car to a stop. At times the grabbing brakes have been so severe that the seat belts lock. This "problem" is making this car a chore to drive. Honda dealer says this is the way they are. I can't imagine Honda produces 300k + Accords that produce this type of OVER reaction when the brakes are applied at low speeds!
"does anyone know where [the blower motor] is located so I can change it?"
Just remove the glove box - the motor and squirrel cage are located on the evaporator/heater core case with three bolts. Remove the electrical connector before you loosen the motor.
Hello, I have a 98 Accord. After I leave it sit for over 4 days it is very difficult to start. I just recently went on vacation for about a week and when I got back it took me 4-5 tries before the engine actually engaged. I am curious as to what this could be? I do drive my car a lot, so it's only when I take vacations that I notice it. Sometimes I will have a good friend of mine drive it for me while I am gone just so I don't have to deal with that little problem when I get back. Thank you for your help. Oh, and thank you to those who responded to my previous questions about my accord. Heather
I also have an '05 EX AT 4cyl with almost 4k miles and noticed the same sensitive brakes you describe. It is worse when the brakes are cold in the morning when I try to maneuver in my garage. There has been several posts in this forum about this subject and the "nothing wrong" crowd thinks this is pretty normal and just a matter of the driver getting used to it (theory goes, the "complainers" are too used to driving cars with not as good brakes as the Accord, and therefore when they drive the Accord they will feel the brake as being too sensitive). After almost 4k miles I still have to be extra careful when I first drive my car out of the garage when in addition to the cold brakes, the engine is also cold, which makes the RPM to be high. But I guess an over reaction (the car stops abruptly) is better than an under reaction (your car hits something).
I don't really have any suggestions on how to deal with this other than be extra careful. Maybe after a while the brakes will "settle in" and stop being as sensitive. Or maybe, as other posters have suggested, we'll just get used to it.
Discountng the possibility of a weak/failing battery, or marginal starter motor, I'd be looking at the air and fuel filters. Either would affect startability - and eventually driveability. How recently were the spark plugs changed? Distributor cap (if present on '98s)? If your fuel mileage is off, it's also very likely your engine is overdue for a general tune-up - maybe including a fuel injector cleaning flush. Why not take your car to your dealer or mechanic and find out and deal with what's needed?
Any tire can cause vibrations if it is out of balance or out of round, which I think is rare.
Tires classified as 'touring' tend to have smaller grooves and therefore are quieter. They also have softer rubber and ride pretty well.
Performance tires have larger grooves which makes more noise. They are also made from harder rubber so they don't flex too much when the driver turns a corner fast, and this gives them a harder ride.
If you tires are making you unhappy, have them balanced and make sure the tire pressure is correct.
I know where you are coming from. I had the same issue with my 04 EX V6 coupe. Took a while to get used to, but I adjusted. Now I have a very light foot on the brake pedal and the issue is no more. The car is great.
"the car has "touring" tires from Bridgestone or BF Goodrich...one of them....would these tires cause vibrations and noise...what tires ride good and are quiet?
This roaring noise is very annoying ...any feedback pls????"
My '96 Accord came with Michelin "MXV4+" tires. They were very noisy, but they wore like iron. My replacement car, an '03 Hyundai Sonata, also came with the same series Michs. Same problem. They're good for fuel economy because they have medium-stiff sidewalls and an easy-rolling "hard" tread compound. For general use, they're adequate if you're deaf and enjoy the visceral thump of every little road imperfection. (I don't) Performance tires actually use a quite stiff sidewall compound for stability, but a much softer than typical tread compound for its superior adhesion during "spirited maneuvering". They represent the worst of all possible comfort worlds - they ride like cast pig iron but also wear disproportionately faster. (Often only 20,000 miles to replacement) When my wife's '00 Cavalier needed to be re-shod, I picked up a set of Uniroyals at Wal-Mart (they were c-h-e-a-p). These are surprisingly quiet riding, comfortable tires (even inflated to 34 lbs), and after a year of use, show very little wear. (Her original equipment Goodyear tires were also harsh and noisy.) I'm almost tempted to throw in the towel and replace my Michs with a set of the Uniroyals on my Sonata. The only thing stopping me is my intention to replace my Sonata in late '08 with a new Accord (well that, and my intrinsically c-h-e-a-p nature). I've read that Continental makes some quiet, comfortable tourers, too. They're not exorbitantly priced, either - unusual considering Continental is a German company.
Let me understand your problem please. You are basing your "never buy one" complaint upon your 1997 vehicle, that may have been manufactured in mid-to-late 1996, it may be as much as NINE YEARS OLD.
Fifth generation Accords were built for the 1993 through 1997 model years. Sixth generation Accords were built for the 1998 through 2002 model years. Seventh generation Accords, the current ones, were built starting with the 2003 models, and will probably be built through the 2007 model year.
Yours is two generations old. How can your comment apply to anyone considering purchasing a modern vehicle?
If you don't mind spending $50 or so on the radio, take it to a local electronics place (even most TV repair places that are "mom and pop" generally do basic electronics repair) and have them deal with the problems. The volume control static will probaby be an easy fix, it likely just needs it's contacts cleaned. This is a classic fix for eliminating static from radio potentiometers (knobs).
Replacing the LED should also not be a hard task for anyone with some time and basic electronics knowledge.
Otherwise, go get an aftermarket stereo. But if you like what you have, I'd recommend the neighborhood electronics shop.
I'd agree with you that there is no logic there, but really, look at the post. Best to just leave those people alone and not encourage them to post. There is no point in even attempting an answer if he/she didn't bother listing the problems.
Meanwhile, let the majority of owners continue to enjoy their accords like I do my 1990....yes, gasp...over 15 years old.
I have a 2000 Accord it will not shift unless I take the little cover off that's next to the lever and depress the release button, is the a way to bypass the interlink so you can shift it without using the brake pedal?
Our 97 Accord, currently with 100,000 miles on the odometer, was absolutely bullet-proof until it turned over 80,000 miles - just maintenance.
When you say it's been in the shop every three months...since when? Since you bought it? Within the last year? Or what? And if it's been since you bought, I'd question why you waited so long to get rid of it.
You've got to love these people whose Edmunds accounts were created the day they post these ridiculous messages, and then don't ever sign on again after making the post.
I also think that statement is uncalled for. I have had Nissans, Mitusubishi's and various american models which did not come without upkeep. I have seen almost 200,000 miles on this car without it having to sit for anything other than traffic and street lights...
Honestly I really dont know, this is my second 97 Accord and all windows motors have been slow or sometimey. I really think that this is a flaw with their motor designs...Anyone else got any insite?
All Honda Accords of that model will allow you to roll them up and down until you open the door then the feature is disabled until the accessory switch is turned once more
My honda accord (1990) broke down on my wife... after driving to her location, I undid her attempts at a repair, and the car started right up, I drove it about 2 hours, and it acted like it ran out of fuel. After towing it home and some asking around, I was sure it was the fuel pump. turns out it was the main relay. Now the trouble has come to stay. after replacing the relay, the car ran like it always had before, (very good). On a trip to a friends house it repeated the out of fuel act and broke down. I was sure it was the relay again, and after replacement, the car started up, I thought I was ready to roll but after a 5 min, re try to start the car, The fuel pump isn't working. I know the relay is good, All the fuses are good, but I hear no noise from the pump. Did I hurt the ECM with the relay changes, or is the pump really the culprit this time?
I couldn't start my 89LXi this morning. This is the second time in 17 years it failed to start. On the first crank. the engine turned. But after that, it was just dead silent. It must be the battery. Will test the battery when I get home today. And there was no warnings. The car ran fine last night.
You might try spraying some silicone or WD40 in to the side window tracks. Sometimes the glass binds to the material in the track and the window will operate very slowly. If the motor and the other parts of the lifting and lowering mechanism are ok, that should do the trick.
I just bought a 90 accord ex with 279 thousand miles on it and the front passengers side makes a sqeaking or squealing noise when i hit bumps or sit on the hood of the car and then get up, what could this be maybe a strut bar or somthing any help would be appreciated Thanks
help please my 91 accord won't start when hot out side, will crank but won't fire. as soon as the sun goes down starts like a new car.ive been told it was starter relay or main relay unfortunately the auto book for the accord only says that is under dash. can any one tell me how to find the right one all the relays under the dash look the same and their is no markings or writing on them to tell wich is the main relay or starter relay. any help would be appreciated. thanks.
thats really funny!! my 91 accord did the same thing today. first time its ever done it. kinda made me mad!! :mad: i dont exactly where it is either but ill try to find out too. any others in here know exactly where it's located? i beleive its on the drivers side.
i know this isnt on subject but, gas price just hit $3.09 a galion here! filled my accord as it does best on mileage. my honda passport doesnt do as well and it is almost out of gas so ill just wait it out right! lol !! wrong my accord wouldnt start today and my commute for work is 50 miles. passport does like 19 miles to the gallion. what a time for the accord to mess with me huh!! :surprise:
"the front passengers side makes a sqeaking or squealing noise when i hit bumps or sit on the hood of the car and then get up ... what could this be"
Since the car is a 15 year old quarter-plus-million-miler, I'd think it's earned the right to be a little creaky-squeaky. My best guess is the rubber bushings in the suspension have deteriorated and are binding against the metal pieces to which they're fit. They can be replaced, but it's a labor intensive task ("labor" is $pelled: $$$) since all the pieces have to be completely disassembled, the old bushings (or what's left of 'em) removed, new ones installed, and everything re-assembled and the front end realigned. You might achieve some cheap temporary relief by squirting a small amount of brake fluid at the offending bushings when you identify them from underneath by having a helper lightly jounce the car. (The glycols in brake fluid are effective rubber lubes.) Might also mention to your helper that since you're gonna be under the vehicle, you'd appreciate it if he/she takes it easy before you start...) If the brake fluid has any effect at all, it'll probably take at least several days to be evident. !!DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL OR SOLVENTS!! Also, avoid getting brake fluid on the car's paint. The stuff's a fantastic paint remover. (Actually for model rairoaders who restore old American Flyer, Marx, and Lionel equipment, brake fluid is the ideal paint remover for polystyrene plastic - softens and removes paint without attacking the plastic.)
Just got a new 05 Accord sedan and noticed the other day that you can see the outline of the airbag on the front passenger dashboard. It is not a big deal but was wondering if this is normal. You can also push on it and it is pretty soft. Never had a car where it seemed so obvious where the airbag was on the front passenger side. It also doesn't look that nice that you can see the outline. Other 03-05 Accord owners see the same thing?
My 95 Accord has a gas tank leak. Mechanic said when the tank is pulled, the gas lines may need to be replaced also. He also said if the gas lines are replaced the brake lines should be replaced also since they are bundled together. Is he right? This could be quite costly and I don't want to feel like I'm being ripped off. Any input would be appreciated...
The operatative word her is "may". The fact that your gas tank has a leak does not mean that you gas lines have to be replaced. They are part of the same system, but totally different components. The brake lines certainly do not have to be replaced if there is nothing wrong with them. The fact that they are bundled together does not mean that all the lines have to be replaced if one has a problem. I would get a second opinion. This sound like someone is trying to scare you in to doing work that is unnecessary.
Yes, this is typical. The lines are clearly visible on my 05 LX. A friend's two year old, upper line Lexus has this as well. Those areas have been weakened to allow the airbag to burst in a predictable manner. BTW, I would not advise pushing on it.
I changed my driver door but when I reconnect my power window , they all work except for front passenger door when I reinstalled the original wire it work but the driver side windows doesn't work then , anybody know why ?
Comments
I think I might have a similar problem. Over a couple of days my 94 2.0i Accord developed a strange knocking sound. It is intermittant and seems to occur when straightening after cornering. It doesn't happen all the time but normally occurs in 2nd gear at about 2000 rpm. The last work I had done on it was the offside CV boot 6months previously. When I looked under the car the new boot was fine but the nearside had gone completely. Having replaced that boot the problem still persists. I have just replaced the nearside CV joint as well but to no avail.
I am wondering if the knocking you experienced occured under similar circumstances and if you could feel the knocking through the floor? Similarly to how you describe your knocking, mine is not typical of CV joint failure...
If you or anyone else could help that would be very much appreciated.
Adam
How did it go with your CD player?
I just bought 2005 EX V6 sedan and have exactly the same problem with CD player—constant hissing sound. (I can not hear that when radio or XM radio is on.) It becomes more obvious between the tracks and with classical musics becuase they are usually recorded at lower volume.
I brought my car back to the dealer and their "audio expert" agreed that there is a significant interference. He ran a test CD, and detected the noise coming around 16 kHz~17 kHZ, which he said is near the upper limit of our hearing range (also a very annoying sound).
We also played the test CD in other 2005 V6 Accords. I could not believe that some Accords had an even higher noise level than mine! Based on this, the audio guy refused to fix my CD player because he thought the noise was inherent in all Accords. But just because every V6 Accord shares it does not mean their CD players are not defective. It's very frustrating that $25,000 car does not have a functional CD player. Also I have not noticed this noise in my friend's 2004 V6 Accord.
Does any other V6 owners have this sort of problem?
ANY SUGGESTION? I need your advice!
Thank you.
J.R.
Just remove the glove box - the motor and squirrel cage are located on the evaporator/heater core case with three bolts. Remove the electrical connector before you loosen the motor.
Heather
I also have an '05 EX AT 4cyl with almost 4k miles and noticed the same sensitive brakes you describe. It is worse when the brakes are cold in the morning when I try to maneuver in my garage. There has been several posts in this forum about this subject and the "nothing wrong" crowd thinks this is pretty normal and just a matter of the driver getting used to it (theory goes, the "complainers" are too used to driving cars with not as good brakes as the Accord, and therefore when they drive the Accord they will feel the brake as being too sensitive). After almost 4k miles I still have to be extra careful when I first drive my car out of the garage when in addition to the cold brakes, the engine is also cold, which makes the RPM to be high. But I guess an over reaction (the car stops abruptly) is better than an under reaction (your car hits something).
I don't really have any suggestions on how to deal with this other than be extra careful. Maybe after a while the brakes will "settle in" and stop being as sensitive. Or maybe, as other posters have suggested, we'll just get used to it.
Tires classified as 'touring' tend to have smaller grooves and therefore are quieter. They also have softer rubber and ride pretty well.
Performance tires have larger grooves which makes more noise. They are also made from harder rubber so they don't flex too much when the driver turns a corner fast, and this gives them a harder ride.
If you tires are making you unhappy, have them balanced and make sure the tire pressure is correct.
Call the Tire Rack for more info.
This roaring noise is very annoying ...any feedback pls????"
My '96 Accord came with Michelin "MXV4+" tires. They were very noisy, but they wore like iron. My replacement car, an '03 Hyundai Sonata, also came with the same series Michs. Same problem. They're good for fuel economy because they have medium-stiff sidewalls and an easy-rolling "hard" tread compound. For general use, they're adequate if you're deaf and enjoy the visceral thump of every little road imperfection. (I don't) Performance tires actually use a quite stiff sidewall compound for stability, but a much softer than typical tread compound for its superior adhesion during "spirited maneuvering". They represent the worst of all possible comfort worlds - they ride like cast pig iron but also wear disproportionately faster. (Often only 20,000 miles to replacement) When my wife's '00 Cavalier needed to be re-shod, I picked up a set of Uniroyals at Wal-Mart (they were c-h-e-a-p). These are surprisingly quiet riding, comfortable tires (even inflated to 34 lbs), and after a year of use, show very little wear. (Her original equipment Goodyear tires were also harsh and noisy.) I'm almost tempted to throw in the towel and replace my Michs with a set of the Uniroyals on my Sonata. The only thing stopping me is my intention to replace my Sonata in late '08 with a new Accord (well that, and my intrinsically c-h-e-a-p nature). I've read that Continental makes some quiet, comfortable tourers, too. They're not exorbitantly priced, either - unusual considering Continental is a German company.
Fifth generation Accords were built for the 1993 through 1997 model years.
Sixth generation Accords were built for the 1998 through 2002 model years.
Seventh generation Accords, the current ones, were built starting with the 2003 models, and will probably be built through the 2007 model year.
Yours is two generations old. How can your comment apply to anyone considering purchasing a modern vehicle?
Replacing the LED should also not be a hard task for anyone with some time and basic electronics knowledge.
Otherwise, go get an aftermarket stereo. But if you like what you have, I'd recommend the neighborhood electronics shop.
Meanwhile, let the majority of owners continue to enjoy their accords like I do my 1990....yes, gasp...over 15 years old.
When you say it's been in the shop every three months...since when? Since you bought it? Within the last year? Or what? And if it's been since you bought, I'd question why you waited so long to get rid of it.
thank you
shifty the host
I couldn't start my 89LXi this morning. This is the second time in 17 years it failed to start. On the first crank. the engine turned. But after that, it was just dead silent. It must be the battery. Will test the battery when I get home today.
And there was no warnings. The car ran fine last night.
Bryan
Kevin
Since the car is a 15 year old quarter-plus-million-miler, I'd think it's earned the right to be a little creaky-squeaky. My best guess is the rubber bushings in the suspension have deteriorated and are binding against the metal pieces to which they're fit. They can be replaced, but it's a labor intensive task ("labor" is $pelled: $$$) since all the pieces have to be completely disassembled, the old bushings (or what's left of 'em) removed, new ones installed, and everything re-assembled and the front end realigned. You might achieve some cheap temporary relief by squirting a small amount of brake fluid at the offending bushings when you identify them from underneath by having a helper lightly jounce the car. (The glycols in brake fluid are effective rubber lubes.) Might also mention to your helper that since you're gonna be under the vehicle, you'd appreciate it if he/she takes it easy before you start...) If the brake fluid has any effect at all, it'll probably take at least several days to be evident. !!DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL OR SOLVENTS!! Also, avoid getting brake fluid on the car's paint. The stuff's a fantastic paint remover. (Actually for model rairoaders who restore old American Flyer, Marx, and Lionel equipment, brake fluid is the ideal paint remover for polystyrene plastic - softens and removes paint without attacking the plastic.)
Thanks.