I have an '03 EX-L (MT) with about 55K miles. When I first got the car my brakes were the same way, very touchy at slow speeds. I haven't even thought about it in 50K miles until I read your post. They are "normal" now and the problem just went away as the car broke in. Hopefully yours will do the same. Car is doing great otherwise (except for a few rattles here and there).
"They are "normal" now and the problem just went away as the car broke in."
Heads-up observation! Engines aren't the only things subject to break-in. Brake pads "hone" themselves against the rotors for the first 200 miles or so, and maybe the material Honda uses is a tad "sticky" when new. Maybe that's what the issue is.
I bought my 2005 LX three days ago. I love this car! People were lined up at my local Nashville dealer. I got one of the last ones. Price was 19,400.
I'm an audio engineer. The sound system is VERY adequate. I look forward to "settling in" with this car. I am, however, troubled by the comments on potential brake problems. I'll definitely be paying attention to any "warning signs." I'm glad this discussion page is here to keep me informed.
Did you buy a four or a six? I asked because that was a good price. I bought my 05 EX V6 coupe last March and paid 24,234 plus TTL. I really thought at the time that the LX V6 was the better value, but my dealer never ordered any LX V6 cars, and one had to wait and wait for a LX V6 so I took the EX V6 instead. My car now has nearly 60K miles on it now, and it has NEVER had any brake problems, and, I think that proper break in procedures are the reason for no trouble. I am also going to look at the 06 Accord LXV6 Coupe when I trade this fall, as the LX now comes with alloy wheels and sunroof standard at a much smaller price than the EX. By the way the price I paid for my EX V6 Coupe was 400 below invoice, so I did get a good price also. Don't worry about the brakes, just follow the break in instructions in the owners manual.,
I forgot to mention, I am a bit unhappy with the seat comfort. A bit firm for me. Plus, I'd like to be sitting up a bit more. I'm 5'11", so not that short. I have pumped the seat up to max.
Question: is it a bad idea to downshift (auto transmission) when coming to a stop- to save on brake wear? I know it shouldn't be done all the time, but sometimes??
"Question: is it a bad idea to downshift (auto transmission) when coming to a stop- to save on brake wear? I know it shouldn't be done all the time, but sometimes??"
Personally, I don't believe it's a good idea. Repeated forced manual downshifting puts undue stress on the clutch disc packs and synchronizers in Honda automatics. (Internally, Honda automatics are more like manual transmissions than traditional automatics - think of Hondamatics as a hydraulically actuated manual transmission behind a torque converter and you won't be too far off.) New brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild (~$2,500.00!). My advice? If you're driving in steep mountainous terrain and don't wanna lose braking effectiveness to heat fade, shift to 3rd and leave it there for engine braking until you're out of the hills. Just remember to not allow the engine to rev past the tachometer's redline.
That is the main reason we bought the EX model with cloth seats. The drivers seat has a button that can raise and lower the seat. That makes it comfortable for me (6' and very handsome) and my wife (5' 3" and very beautiful).
The EX with leather seats has power adjustments that move the seat all kind of ways, but my wife said the seat would not go as high as it would in the model with cloth seats.
Me, 5'10" and my wife 5'0" and we don't have any problem with seat comfort with my 03EXV6. The only problem we have with the seat is we have to adjust it when we change driver. I wish Honda makes seat memory available for the Accord like the 06TSX.
put 400 miles so far. 1. for such a powerful V6 sedan, pickup is fine but I could feel the hesitation betw. gears very easily. almost each time I need step on gas a little bit harder to get it going 2. upon a red light I moved my foot off the gas padal (to let the car slide), I would notice sudden (but subtle) slow-down. If I would watch RPM carefully, it actually went down then up in a split of secod...
I believe what you are experiencing in your #2 item may be the grade logic functions of the automatic transmission. This is normal for this car. The grade logic will kick in when you remove you foot from the accelerator and begin to coast. Under certain conditions, going up or down an incline, the transmission shifts our of overdrive and the RPM goes up.
just wondering if you were able to get the radio replaced. Have the same problem, dealer confirmed that this is common. Going to call the number you provided, did you need any specific info to open a case? thanks for the advice.
No. I'm taking my car for the 10,000 mi service this week. I'll see what the dealershp can do. I do think it's the rear passenger side seat belt retractor.
"upon a red light I moved my foot off the gas padal (to let the car slide), I would notice sudden (but subtle) slow-down. If I would watch RPM carefully, it actually went down then up in a split of secod..."
This effect is normal In Hondas with automatic transmissions. What the seat of your pants is telling you is that, as the car slows during coasting, at some point the trannie will automatically downshift. (All automatics do this - it's just a bit more noticeable with Honda automatics.) That's the point at which you notice the revs briefly increase on the tach display. The brief, subtle, vehicle speed retarding effect is from related engine compression braking as the momentum of the car's mass forces the engine rev increase after the downshif.
I am about to buy a new 2005 Accord. For my previous car, I used one of those acid-based wheel cleaners that you spray on and rinse off, with no problems. However, I remember others telling me that newer alloys have delicate finishes that can be worn down with certain wheel cleaners? Has anyone found this problem with their newer Accord alloys? Thanks
Hi does anyone know a good tiredressing that contains, no petroleum distillates, alcohol or silicon? I looked at a Meguiar's bottle and it contained hectane and acetone. Is this ok? Thanks
Just wanted to let you know that Accords come with ceramic brake pads, not metallic (confirmed by Honda Customer Service).
2005 Accords came with metallics, but you could request ceramics. At some point in the production cycle, ceramics became the standard equipment.
This may be the reason so many drivers report Accord's brakes as being touchy at first. The great part of this is that we won't need to worry about brake dust!!!
just thought I'd share this with everyone since I'm such a happy guy right now. almost spent 100 on ceramic pads but now I dont need to!!!
I have a 2002 Accord Special Edition that, when just starting out from not being driven for say, an hour or two, has a very hard shift from 1st to 2nd. It seems to go away as the car speeds up and shifts to the other gears. Anyone have any problems like this? I had the first tranny replaced at 13K. The car now has 50K.
I have a 2002 se i recently purchsed when i go to start the car in the moring the emergeny break light on the dash is on it will stay on for a few minutes then just turn off and no the emergeny break is not on when i go to start the car in the afternoon there is no light is this normal anything i need to be concerecen about
Check the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If it is low, add fluid and the light should go out. You may want to check out the brake system to look for leaks or brake pads that might have to be replaced. If you do not feel comfortable making the checks, bring the car in the a good mechanic and have the brake system checked out. If you have no leaks, the brake light going on is normal if the brake pads are getting to the end of the useful life. As the pads wear, more brake fluid is found in the calipers so the master cylinder had to be re-charged.
My 91 Accord is doing the same thing. Only when AC is on, then the pedal goes to the floor. Can you confirm for me, if you resolved this and how. I don't understand how it could be the mastercylinder, when it is fine on a 90 degree day as long as the ac is not on. The AC being on can't make the brake fluid hotter can it?
Squealing is getting louder by the day. Thought at first it was time to change brake pads because that's what it sounds like. But it squeals the whole time I drive, not just in braking. Sounds like its coming from front left tire area. The more I accelerate, the faster the squealing gets, until you can't hear it anymore because I'm going fast enough. Also, squealing sounds like it's "rotating"...loud-soft-loud-soft...but constant nonetheless. 87K miles. '02 EX V6 automatic. Thanks!
I have a 1990 Honda Accord DX 4 door. When I am driving down the road and I turn the steering wheel to go in a curve it makes a noise like rubber squeaking. I have looked at the tires to make sure they are not rubbing and they are fine. I have replaced a Power steering pump, master cylinder, all brake parts, and belts. It is still making the noise and I cannot pin point exactly where it comes from. It only does it when I am driving and turning the steering wheel so I try to listen. It sounds like it is coming from the steering area. I have already put $400.00 dollars into the car and still no fix. Can you help me to determine what the problem might be??
i drive 25 miles to work every day. my accord has been great for this as it does decent on gas.
big problem today.
got into town and looked down at the dash finally, as i was on my cell phone speaking to my attorney about my recent custody battle, my check engine light was on.
ok.
then the car starts to bog down a bit at the light and the oil light starts to flash.
uh oh!
i look over at the temp gauge and its threw the roof.
oh no.
i parked and headed into work fearing the worse. so ill check it out further on my lunch break, so at least the motor will be cooled down by then. :surprise:
I've got a '98 and it does the same thing. I stuffed a wad of paper on the release button and it'll shift, only prob is that it'll shift all the time. Haven't tried anything else though.
"Thought at first it was time to change brake pads because that's what it sounds like. But it squeals the whole time I drive, not just in braking."
Initially the "squealer" tangs riveted to the brake pads to warn of wear will only sound off during braking. However, as the pad material additionally wears, the noise will become constant. None of this proves you need your front brake pads replaced yet, but if it were my car, I'd sure have a specialist check it out before assuming the noise is unrelated.
"my check engine light was on. ... then the car starts to bog down a bit at the light and the oil light starts to flash. ... i look over at the temp gauge and its threw the roof."
Not good. Check the engine oil level - I'm betting it'll barely register on the dipstick, if at all. Engine damage is swift and severe in the event oil pressure is lost and the engine isn't shut down immediately. Even if the sump proves to be full, or no more than a quart down, an oil pump failure would still cause the same symptoms. A third possibility is severe sludging of the oil galleries that finally caught up with you from extended oil changes and/or using the wrong type of oil. (By the way, oil not only lubricates, it's also responsible for nearly half the engine's cooling since there's virtually no direct coolant flow around the pistons, crankshaft, and main bearings.) Best of luck.
If you're stuck in the traffic long enough and the cooling fan is automatically turned on, you will experience the same thing. When the AC is on, the cooling fan is also on. The fan makes the MC hotter. My 89LXi experiences the same thing when the cooling fan is on.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6 with just over 60,000 and found out I needed to replace my Power Steering Rack (Left Front Side). I originally noticed that my steering was going off towards the right side when driving straight. I thought like most drivers would is the alignment is off even though I got the alignment done last December. So, got the car checked and no matter how it was aligned, it was off, to come to my current replacement. So, just wondering if anyone else has experienced this on their Accord??? Thanks!!!
my 91 accord started acting funny when i push the brake pedal you hear a relay click and the front marker lights come on but when i turn the lights on or put it in gear it does not click.if the doors open and i push the brake pedal the door chime goes off whats up with that?
All it says on the gallon jug is environmentally safe non toxic non flammable biodegradable. Does the web site have a contact maybe you could request a safety data sheet. It looks like milk. I have been using it a long time with no bad effects. I get it from http://www.premiumautocare.com/index.html
Unless the company is willfully flirting with stiff fines and the possibility of criminal prosecution from the Federal Trade Commission over false advertising across state lines, the stuff sounds perfectly safe with or without access to a material safety data sheet. (Shoot, it might even be good poured over cereal... )
I just got my honda accord a month ago. I started driving it 3 days ago. Last night, while I was driving, I heard some loud lunk clunk noise on the front passenger side (sounds like there is something inside the door). Today, when I am going at high speed (60mph to 70mph), i heard it, but softer than last night and more consistant. Has anyone have this issue? Any advice on what could it be? This is my first time buying a Honda. I am a Toyota person. I had own two toyotas, & I never seen such a problem.
Comments
Heads-up observation! Engines aren't the only things subject to break-in. Brake pads "hone" themselves against the rotors for the first 200 miles or so, and maybe the material Honda uses is a tad "sticky" when new. Maybe that's what the issue is.
I'm an audio engineer. The sound system is VERY adequate. I look forward to "settling in" with this car. I am, however, troubled by the comments on potential brake problems. I'll definitely be paying attention to any "warning signs." I'm glad this discussion page is here to keep me informed.
I got the LX 4 CYLINDER. Thanks for the recommendation of "being smart" with "training" my brakes.
I would love to have gotten the alloy wheels and sunroof- none available, plus I was glad to save the money.
Question: is it a bad idea to downshift (auto transmission) when coming to a stop- to save on brake wear? I know it shouldn't be done all the time, but sometimes??
Personally, I don't believe it's a good idea. Repeated forced manual downshifting puts undue stress on the clutch disc packs and synchronizers in Honda automatics. (Internally, Honda automatics are more like manual transmissions than traditional automatics - think of Hondamatics as a hydraulically actuated manual transmission behind a torque converter and you won't be too far off.) New brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild (~$2,500.00!). My advice? If you're driving in steep mountainous terrain and don't wanna lose braking effectiveness to heat fade, shift to 3rd and leave it there for engine braking until you're out of the hills. Just remember to not allow the engine to rev past the tachometer's redline.
The EX with leather seats has power adjustments that move the seat all kind of ways, but my wife said the seat would not go as high as it would in the model with cloth seats.
I wish Honda makes seat memory available for the Accord like the 06TSX.
1. for such a powerful V6 sedan, pickup is fine but I could feel the hesitation betw. gears very easily. almost each time I need step on gas a little bit harder to get it going
2. upon a red light I moved my foot off the gas padal (to let the car slide), I would notice sudden (but subtle) slow-down. If I would watch RPM carefully, it actually went down then up in a split of secod...
Is it normal during break-in ?
This effect is normal In Hondas with automatic transmissions. What the seat of your pants is telling you is that, as the car slows during coasting, at some point the trannie will automatically downshift. (All automatics do this - it's just a bit more noticeable with Honda automatics.) That's the point at which you notice the revs briefly increase on the tach display. The brief, subtle, vehicle speed retarding effect is from related engine compression braking as the momentum of the car's mass forces the engine rev increase after the downshif.
those acid-based wheel cleaners that you spray on and rinse off, with
no problems. However, I remember others telling me that newer alloys
have delicate finishes that can be worn down with certain wheel
cleaners? Has anyone found this problem with their newer Accord alloys?
Thanks
Both are petroleum distillates with solvent properties on many rubber compounds.
Just wanted to let you know that Accords come with ceramic brake pads, not metallic (confirmed by Honda Customer Service).
2005 Accords came with metallics, but you could request ceramics. At some point in the production cycle, ceramics became the standard equipment.
This may be the reason so many drivers report Accord's brakes as being touchy at first. The great part of this is that we won't need to worry about brake dust!!!
just thought I'd share this with everyone since I'm such a happy guy right now. almost spent 100 on ceramic pads but now I dont need to!!!
This looks great on tires it is a little pricey.
Sammy Castagna
The finish on the wheels keeps the dirt and brake dust from sticking.
You know, I think the Accord and Acura alloy wheels are beautiful. Much nicer than other cars I see.
The steering pinion seal needs some lubrication.
"i have the same problem as you in my 91 accord. but i have a bonus. on really hard turns at speed, my oil light comes on!! lol."
big problem today.
got into town and looked down at the dash finally, as i was on my cell phone speaking to my attorney about my recent custody battle, my check engine light was on.
ok.
then the car starts to bog down a bit at the light and the oil light starts to flash.
uh oh!
i look over at the temp gauge and its threw the roof.
oh no.
i parked and headed into work fearing the worse. so ill check it out further on my lunch break, so at least the motor will be cooled down by then. :surprise:
Initially the "squealer" tangs riveted to the brake pads to warn of wear will only sound off during braking. However, as the pad material additionally wears, the noise will become constant. None of this proves you need your front brake pads replaced yet, but if it were my car, I'd sure have a specialist check it out before assuming the noise is unrelated.
Not good. Check the engine oil level - I'm betting it'll barely register on the dipstick, if at all. Engine damage is swift and severe in the event oil pressure is lost and the engine isn't shut down immediately. Even if the sump proves to be full, or no more than a quart down, an oil pump failure would still cause the same symptoms. A third possibility is severe sludging of the oil galleries that finally caught up with you from extended oil changes and/or using the wrong type of oil. (By the way, oil not only lubricates, it's also responsible for nearly half the engine's cooling since there's virtually no direct coolant flow around the pistons, crankshaft, and main bearings.) Best of luck.
If you're stuck in the traffic long enough and the cooling fan is automatically turned on, you will experience the same thing. When the AC is on, the cooling fan is also on. The fan makes the MC hotter.
My 89LXi experiences the same thing when the cooling fan is on.
Allan
Sammy Castagna
You have a short circuit or crossed wires.
I just got my honda accord a month ago. I started driving it 3 days ago. Last night, while I was driving, I heard some loud lunk clunk noise on the front passenger side (sounds like there is something inside the door). Today, when I am going at high speed (60mph to 70mph), i heard it, but softer than last night and more consistant. Has anyone have this issue? Any advice on what could it be? This is my first time buying a Honda. I am a Toyota person. I had own two toyotas, & I never seen such a problem.
Thanks
Ada
Thanks
It's the passenger seatbelt metal insert-lock making contact with the vinyl side of the car!
ramida