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Comments
This sounds like a junker. I would keep looking.
Driving 100+ shows a mentally defective human being.
I'm attempting to help my FIL who has a 98 Accord V6 Sedan - @31,000 miles. He has an oil leak, and took the vehicle to the dealer for repair.
He was informed the vehicle is leaking oil through the block - a known condition described as a pourous block. I understand there is a service bulletin on the defect.
The dealer ran a test with a sealant that has worked on some vehicles. It did not work, and they have said the leak is now worse after this test. Dealer rec. was a new motor for this car. They made attempts to cover under a program they had used before for this condition, and anticipated a cost 1st - $300.00, 2nd -
$600.00. The dealer was not able to obtain Honda's permission under the program. Now, the only option given by the dealer is a new motor, no coverage - $6000.00.
I understand the vehicle is past the manf warrenty coverage. Since this is a known defect (Service bulletin exists) are there any suggested avenues to pursue that may assist in the cost of fixing this vehicle? Honda Customer service (not going through dealership) is closed today - day after Thanksgiving. Just wonder if there is anything I could do to get some help with managing the cost of this repair.
Vehicle is one owner.
I'd appreciate any suggestions.
I bought a certified Honda Accord 4cyl, coupe, 2002 with AT. I get 22 miles per gallon on mix highway and local driving. Sometimes, I got 19 miles per gallon. I cleaned spark plugs, cleaned cap and rotor, changed engine oil with 5w-20 full synthetic oil, changed transmission fluid with fluid from Honda dealer. The air filter is new. I adjusted the tire to 30psi ( the manual says 29 psi). The mileage is the same. So, Live with it because we can do nothing to make it better.
This afternoon was the first time I opened the hood of my 05 Accord LX 2.4L, bought 3 months back brand new from dealer. The car has 2800 miles. I noticed that the radiator reservoir is just slightly above the MIN level which means I must add radiator fluid soon.
The owner's manual recommends some Honda radiator fluid. Is that an absolute must? What do the other Honda Accord owners here use? And do you have to top up coolant so quickly? Or is it because my car is new?
Appreciate any advice. Cheers.
Can anybody give me a hint whether this is normal or not since I have never owned an accord before. Thanks!
I guess that you checked the coolant when the engine was cool. If you checked it when the engine was cool, it is OK. Don't over fill it because if you overfill it, you have to drain some later. Just in case you want to fill it, buy coolant from dealer. It cost around $ 10 per gallon bottle.
There are Accord V6 owners getting over 30 mpg at 80 mph highway cruise speed, our I4 manual gets 35 mpg in mixed suburb city driving and even can even come close to 40 with the cruise set at 70. How do you know that the Accord doesn't have that kind of economy if you think it's "insane" to drive that fast? But anyway, the point I was making was that it made no sense to ticket someone in the name of "energy conservation" just because they were speeding when vehicles get such varying levels of economy.
Not gonna get into a debate over the why to ticket someone on an empty stretch of highway. Do a search in the "Inconsiderate Drivers" forum for more Speed Lmit rants.
Michelin MXV4+ M&S tourers are NOISY tires - and that's the good news. The bad news? They wear like iron. I had 'em on my '96 Accord, and, naturally, Hyundai supplied 'em on my '03 Sonata, too... GAAHHH!
In principle, I agree. But, A>, it won't make anywhere near a couple miles per gallon difference in fuel economy (closer to a few tenths of a gallon), and B>, 5W-30 motor oils typically shear down to about 20 "weight" at operating temperature after about 1,200 miles. (There's been considerable discussion on this topic on the "bobistheoilguy" motor oil forums.) Virtually all 5W-20 motor oils are a semi-synthetic whether they state so on the label or not, and stay within grade unless there's a fuel dilution problem from too much cold weather operation, short-tripping, and/or urban crawl. In short, flip a coin - it probably won't make a 100 mile difference over the life of the engine. Not that it makes a hoot in a holler's difference in your situation, but I'm still a year around 10W-30 man here in southern California.
Honda's proprietary antifreeze is a very good one. Honda, Toyota, and Nissan all use a variation on GM Dexcool theme of OAT ("organic acid technology"), NO phosphates, and NO silicates. However, unlike Dexcool, the Japanese variation includes a stiff dose of phosphates for additional protection against aluminum corrosion and waterpump cavitation damage - "hybrid" coolant technology. (To my knowledge there're no U.S. aftermarket brands of antifreeze/coolant that attempt to duplicate the Japanese antifreeze formualae.) The bad news is that these Japanese OEM coolants vary from ~$15.00 to ~$20.00 per gallon through the dealerships' parts departments - if you have several Honda delaerships in your area, CALL AROUND for price. Nevertheless, while the car is under warranty, your best bet to protect the warranty, is use what the owner's manual recommends. For future reference, after your new car's off warranty, a hybrid LOW silicate OAT formula such as Zerex G-05 would probably be a safe substitute for the Honda syrup. (The G-05 formula - a BASF development - has been the staple in most high-end European cars for over two decades. It's factory-fill for Mercedes-Benz, BMW, certain VW automobile cooling systems, Current factory-fill in Chrysler and Ford cooling systems, as well as certified by most American diesel engine manufacturers because of its resistance to cavitation damage in wet-cylinder liner heavy-duty engines. About $10.00 per gallon at Pep Boys.)
I'm guilty of driving that fast and faster but I was very lucky nothing ever happened.
Gee, I've read your posts and you are smarter than that!
Is this the infamous 00 v6 tranny problem? I haven't seen any sympoms of tranny problems/any trouble shifting gears before. Currently have around 71K miles on the car.
The same things can happen at speed much less than 100. If you are going to live your life by being afraid of the "what-ifs" then you might as well put a gun to your own head. At least then you'll know what killed you. But even then "what if" the gun misfires and you only succeed in maiming yourself.
Our interstate system was designed for 70 mph travel when cars had solid axles, drum brakes, and didn't even have seat belts. I'm pretty sure my LS400 and Accord EX are improved enough to go a little faster on those same roads. But again, I'm not asking permission or even trying to convince anyone, just making the point that giving a ticket in the name of conservation is stupid.
In fact upon further though...The speed limit is also rather stupid for the same reasons. Why should someone in a car with crash zones, 20 airbags, pre collision systems, etc be required to obey the same speed limits as the driver of a 1984 Chevette? There's something funny about that too.
perhaps if everyone and their vehicles were capable of and doing very high speeds, there'd be less of a chance of a problem due to the speed differentials involved.
the speed limits aren't dictated merely as a function of road design, state of the art vehicle capability, nor the condition/maintenance of your particular vehicle and your particular driving prowness...
remember also, the interstates were designed at a time when the traffic volume and inter-vehicle spacing, vehicle mix and use, etc, etc was much different than it is on many major interstates today.
I could have shot a cannon at times in the 70s and not hit anyone on I-71 through Kentucky/TN to Nashville. Not today.
You are driving on four contact patches that at that speed are smaller than a postcard. Your ability to control for any emergency or failure is nil.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
And if you live in NE Atlanta, you know the average speed on I-285 is approaches 80 mph. Now if people can do those speed with the density in that area, you should be able to do 100 mph on desolate stretches of I-20 and I-16 all day long.
I realize some areas aren't gonna be able to support those speeds. But in Ga for instance, the highways area are relatively straight with a large buffer area. If you hit a deer in the daytime, you weren't paying attention. Whereas in Virginia, you get tunnel vision doing 70 because the interstates there have no buffer area. I bet there is a much higher risk of deer strikes too. Even in the daytime.
There are no absolutes. 100mph can be done with reasonable safety in some areas and 55 is risky in others. Funny thing is you are more likely to get a speeding ticket in areas where it's safest to speed. Such as a lonely, desolate area of highway where speeders are easy pickins.
Going back to original post that started this though...Conservation isn't a reason for more strict speed limit enforcement. But then again, you have to wonder about the safety aspect too considering the widely varying levels of capability on the roads.
have you seen in real-time, ladders, tires, or other vehicle parts comming off of vehicles on 285? i've seen that and folding tables, doors, duct work, metal fence posts, tree limbs and a lot of other stuff comming off of vehicles in my lane or other lanes.
at 80+, you wouldn't have a chance, and if someone swerved to avoid the hazard, you very well might hit them.
i've seen a driver hit a tire and rim at speed on the 75/85 merge in the left most lane, when a vehicle in front of him swerved out of the way but rather late, the guy behind him had about 0 situational awareness of the hazard in front of him or her. the car went completely inverted like one of those stunt rolls... i'm pretty sure, noone lived to collect their stunt driving pay for that one. when it happens to the left of your driver's window, the experience is quite spectacular and scarey. i was 1/2 mile down the road before i processed what had happened.
like i said, your argument doesn't fly in general...
also we aren't living in fear by this awareness, we are being realistic, valuing our lives, and the lives of others.
thanks
Shifty the Host
We discuss this topic monthly in the Inconsiderate Drivers forum.
""The Honda 3 shaft transmissions do have a filter but it is sealed inside the transmission case. The ONLY way to access the filter is to remove and disassemble the transmission. Front wheel drive transmissions such as these have the differential assy built into the transmission case. The differential is lubricated with the transmission fluid inside the transmission. What you can do if you want, is drain and refill (One time) every 6000 miles or so (Every other oil change). Honda fluid is expensive, but you need to use ONLY HONDA FLUID in this transmission. Draining and refilling one of these transmissions is actually much easier than changing your engine oil and filter. I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way.
transman""
Specifically, this: "I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way."
What is he saying? That after he rebuilt their transmissions, they started changing their fluid this way or they changed their fluid this way and he rebuilt their transmissions. It is late so maybe I'm not reading straight.
My daughter has a '99 Accord EX with a 4 cylinder and we had to replace the tranny because of a slow shift and jolt mainly going from 1st to 2nd gear. We took it in for a fluid change and they said there was internal leakage. $2k later and the car is fine. Now, this wasn't a Honda dealer who did it, but a trusted independent business who works on all of my cars. So, after having had transmission problems on both my wife's and my own car (not Hondas), I am going to be very religious about getting the fluid replaced. But every 6k miles? Okay, I can deal with that...if it will give my daughter another 150k or so on her tranny or until she graduates from college and she can get whatever she wants.
But before I do, I need to get clarification on what the master mechanic is saying.
Cars...man oh man. My most reliable vehicle is my 1971 Volkswagen pop-up camper bus. Adjust them valves, change that oil, grease them zerks...and it goes forever. Just not very quickly. But it makes up for all that in that it is great for my wife and I to get intimate in...actually make any journey something a little more savoring.
Since she is in college pursuing her mechanical engineering/materials science degree and spends many hours a week twisting her brain, we decided to fix it so she wouldn't think about it.
$2k later and the problem is gone. Did it ever get worse..not to a great extent...but this thing has to last her until she gets her master's...another 4 years (she's a junior)...so we opted to just fix it.
Other than this and those GM inspired air conditioning/heater plastic rotary knobs that break..it has been a solid car.
So now, when the engine is hot, the level in the tank is right in between MIN and MAX. When it is cold, it is right above MIN.
Should I be worried about leaks in the coolant system since it was below MIN when the engine was cold when I first checked the level? Or is it common that new cars come with not enough coolant?
Also, when should coolant level be checked, when the engine is hot or when the engine is cold?
If it snows where you live, it's cold enough to require 5W-30 during the winter months for adequate oil circulation on first startup. (Engines suffer their greatest wear during cold startup, NOT warm running.) Don't even think about 10W-40 in your Honda - frankly it's an anacronym best left for shot beaters. Consideration of 20W-50 should be a committable offense.
If not, you have a leak somewhere.
As for the "black box"..We drive Hondas here.
http://www.clickondetroit.com/automotive/3786478/detail.html
Our black boxes only record information right before a crash. It doesn't retain a speed history...Yet.
Shifty the Host
Have a Ford F-150 with 110,000 and not one issue. If I have these issues with the '06 it'll be the last Accord I own. Oh, and got $27,800 for the '06 EX-V6 w/Navigation.
Afterward, I test drove another 2006 Accord V6 and I felt a very slight vibration from the engine at low rpm and low gears, but the engine is quite and smoothly. I may go to the other dealer to get the second opinion. Now I just have to live with it, and I am very disappointed about my 2005 Accord V6. *Sign*... :sick:
i guess you should have someone look at that, your alternator and battery. Connections to same.
We have a 2002 Accord with 65K miles on it that is burning oil - but not consistently. Sometimes after a 1000 miles of highway driving, there is no loss of oil at all. At other times after a few days or so of driving to work and back (around 20 miles of back roads, occasional stop/go), I need to add over a quart or more. Once I had to add over 2 quarts after a few weeks.
My 98 Prelude used to burn oil, my S2000 burns oil as well but it's pretty consistent and not like the Accord.
Is it time to trade in the Accord? Can anything be fixed? The car is super clean otherwise and we were planning to drive it to the ground but not sure anymore.
Thanks!
Rings are $$ to replace, but seals should be alot less.
If you read info on what is cheaper, repairing a car, or replacing, the repairing always seems to win.
I'm curious, how often did you change oil? What brand of oil do you use? 60k isn't that many miles, I would expect you should not be having oil burning problems for a long time.
Mrbill
But the Accord isn't consistant and that makes no sense.
Valve guides and seals aren't going to wear after 65,000 miles and neither are the rings.
I would take it in for a leakdown test.
I'm wondering also...how often is the oil changed? did the car ever overheat?
Any suggestions on weather this is a good price or not and has anyone tried to fix damage to the rear fiberglass vs replacing it.
Thanks
Larry